Monday, August 30, 2021

GREUBEL FORSEY – GMT Earth Black Titanium Edition

 

GREUBEL FORSEYGMT Earth Tourbillon Black Titanium Edition 2021

 GMT EARTH THE FINAL EDITION

The Earth turns and Greubel Forsey keeps moving. Today, the Atelier unveils the third terrestrial interpretation of its GMT Earth. This unique and now even more modern creation features a new titanium case and is adorned with an even more elegant intense black finish: limited edition of 11 pieces.

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The Earth is a global village that man cannot explore in a single glance: the vastness of its spaces and curved geometry present us with an never-ending horizon. At least, until now. With the GMT Earth, Greubel Forsey has created a watch that, for the first time, makes it possible to appreciate the entirety of the world in a single glance.

This technical feat first appeared in 2011. At the time of the first “GMT”, the Earth was not yet fully revealed. Seven years later, the design of the Earth was finally complete: visible from all angles in its new sapphire alcove, it appears as though it is floating in space. On the front as well as the back, the laser-engraved Earth shows world times that are both quick and easy to read.

A third version in titanium

The first version of the GMT Earth was in white gold. The second, in platinum. Today, this timepiece is available with a new titanium case. Almost twice as light as steel, it is impervious to temperature variations, non-magnetic, hypo-allergenic and eight times stronger than gold or platinum, but requires extremely technical know-how and equipment to be manufactured and finished.
 
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The GMT Earth in titanium will be available in a limited edition of 11 pieces, three times less than the original version. Weighing just 117 g, the weight of the strap has been reduced by two-thirds. The case has lost just over a third of its weight. 

Titanium is used not only for the entire case, but also the bridges, the GMT push-piece, the crown and the folding buckle, the latter two being the components most exposed to shocks and scratches.

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 To accompany the light and matt tones of titanium, Greubel Forsey opted for a black finish on the dial. It is applied to the spotted bottom plate and to all the frosted bridges, with straight flanks, polished bevelling and countersinks. This finish is also featured on an all-black natural rubber strap, whose inner face is engraved with the cardinal values of the Greubel Forsey Atelier and which are visible on the bezel.

A clear and intuitive display
The GMT Earth displays four key pieces of information on its dial side.

The first is the off-centre hours, minutes and seconds display. The first two feature large openworked hands finished with a Super-LumiNova tip, complemented by a small seconds hand on a sapphire disc at three o’clock.

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On the left is the GMT indicator, whose red hand effortlessly stands out against a hand-engraved black gold disc filled with lacquer. The third, located opposite the crown, is the power reserve, designed following the same process: a black, engraved gold segment, filled with lacquer and covered by a silver-polished steel hand.

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Finally between 7 o'clock and 9 o'clock, the Earth occupies the largest space, completing a full rotation in 24 hours. The engraved sapphire ring around the equator acts as a day / night indication and allows you to instantly see which hemisphere is in the daytime and which is at night.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTOLocated on the side of the caseband, a final window opens to show the equator. Thanks to this, the Earth really can be seen from all angles. Finally, on the caseback side, the worldtime display indicator completes the design. 24 time zones indicate the UTC of 24 major cities - with those that observe daylight savings on a white background.

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes, an unrivalled invention

The GMT Earth boasts Greubel Forsey’s third invention. The Tourbillon 24 Secondes uses a fast rotation speed and is set at an angle to resolve the positioning problem in relation to gravity and which is crucial for the operation of the oscillator. The 25° angle and the rapid rotation of the tourbillon cage significantly improve the chronometric performance of a system containing only one tourbillon, especially those in fixed positions.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  GMT

Model GMT Earth

Limited edition of 11 pieces in titanium

Hand-wound movement with 3 patents *Patents pending

GMT • 2nd time zone • rotating globe with universal time and day-and-night • complete and
global view from northern to southern hemisphere • universal time on 24 time zones • summer
and winter time • cities observing summer time • lateral window showing the equator • GMT
pusher • Tourbillon 24 Secondes • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve

Movement
Dimensions
• Diameter: 36.40mm
• Thickness: 11.55mm
Number of parts
• Movement: 453 parts
• Tourbillon cage: 86 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.39g
Number of jewels
60
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons
Chronometric power reserve72 hours
Barrels
• Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension
Balance wheel
• Variable-inertia with gold mean-time screws (10mm diameter)
Frequency • 21’600 vibrations/hour
Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud
Main plate
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment
Bridges
• Nickel silver, frosted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment
• Flat black polished steel tourbillon bridge, hand-polished bevelling and countersinks
• Flat black polished steel screws, blued by heat treatment
Tourbillon
• Inclined at a 25° angle, 24-seconds rotation
• Light alloy cage pillars
• Titanium cage bridges
• Gold counterweight
Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Tangential inclined gear on fixed wheel
and profiled teeth on escape wheel pinion
Displays
• Hours and minutes
• Small seconds
• 72-hours power reserve on a sector
• 2nd time zone GMT
• 24 time zones universal time
• Rotating titanium globe with universal time
• Complete view from North Pole to South Pole
• Summer time
• Day-and-night

Exterior
Case
• In titanium, with titanium plates, engraved, hand-finished with text, screwed to the caseband
• Lateral window with shaped synthetic sapphire crystal
• Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped lugs
• Three-dimensional synthetic sapphire crystal caseback, with integrated dome
• Three-dimensional, asymmetrical, synthetic sapphire crystal bezel
• Raised polished engraving “GMT Earth” and “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
• Gold security screws
• Titanium GMT pusher with raised engraving on a hand-punched background
• Engraved individual number

Dimensions
• Diameter: 45.50
mm
• Height: case 16.18mm (height on synthetic sapphire dome 18.00mm)
Water resistance of the case
• Water-resistant 3atm – 30m – 100ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)
Crown • In titanium, synthetic sapphire insert with GF logo

Dial Side

• Multi-level hour-ring in synthetic sapphire, galvanic growth hour indexes, engraved and lacquered minutes and small seconds
• Power-reserve and GMT indicators in gold, engraved and lacquered, circular-grained, black treatment
• Rotating globe with day-and-night UTC indicator in synthetic sapphire, engraved and lacquered
Movement Side

• Synthetic sapphire disc displaying city names surrounded by 2 gold rings (UTC and summer time) engraved and lacquered
• Gold “summer time” plate with individual number, raised engraving
• South Pole of the globe with UTC indicator, engraved and lacquered, hand matt lapped
Hands
• Hours, minutes, small seconds and power-reserve in polished steel, hand-polished countersinks
• 2nd time zone GMT indicator, red triangle
Strap and clasp
• Rubber or hand-sewn alligator
• Titanium folding clasp, engraved with the GF logo

Unique edition
Limited Edition of 11 pieces.


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Press Release - 2021
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GREUBEL FORSEY SA
For further information: 
Communication Department 
press@greubelforsey.com – +41 79 194 2884
Eplatures-Grise -16 P.O. Box 670 
2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds - Switzerland
+41 32 925-4545
+41 32 925-4502
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Friday, August 27, 2021

Massena LAB x Habring² ERWIN LAB03 Chronometer Edition

Massena LAB x Habring² ERWIN LAB03 Chronometer Limited Edition 2021

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 Massena LAB COLLABORATIONS Habring²

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Introducing the Massena LAB x Habring² ERWIN LAB03, featuring a bronze, engine-turned dial by J.N. Shapiro and, for the first time ever, official Chronometer Certification from the Horological Society of New York.

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The dial of the LAB03 was designed by William Massena and hand-crafted by Joshua Shapiro in his Los Angeles workshop.  
 
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The tone of the dial, which shifts from salmon to rose depending on the light, is the natural color of the bronze metal and is not the result of painting or plating as is common practice. The dial is then lacquered to prevent patination and discoloration. The dial of the
LAB03 is J.N. Shapiro’s first dial to utilize bronze.

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J.N. Shapiro
uses an eighty-year-old straight-line guilloché machine to achieve the striking basketweave pattern, a centuries-old and arduous process which few dial makers will attempt today. The outer ring of the dial is then grained using Water of Ayr stone, a traditional watchmaking tool which is exceedingly rare today.

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The markings on the dial, along with the hands, are a deep midnight blue, providing excellent legibility against the bronze metal. The leather strap of the LAB03 is made in Italy from deerskin, also in a deep blue tone.

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The ERWIN LAB03 is made in Austria by Habring² with their in-house caliber A11MS hand-wound movement, featuring a patented deadbeat seconds complication. Turning the timepiece over reveals the movement, visible through a display back of sapphire crystal. The movement of the LAB03 has a unique and special finishing: it is first plated with a layer of rhodium, followed by a second layer of 5N rose gold.

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The LAB03 is the first watch to receive official Chronometer Certification from the Horological Society of New York, America’s first watchmaking guild. A keen eye will observe that the movement of the LAB03 has been stamped with the official HSNY Seal.

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Chronometer Certification from the HSNY indicates that a timepiece has met its rigorous testing protocols and has exceeded the international standards outlined in ISO 3159. Watches that pass the HSNY’s visual rate testing procedures are issued a physical certificate detailing that individual timepiece’s results, which is included with your delivery of the LAB03 .

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The Habring² ERWIN LAB03 will be produced in a limited edition of 66 pieces to commemorate 1866, the year the Horological Society of New York was founded. The LAB03 will be shipped in batches monthly, beginning in late January 2022.  

The LAB03 is offered at $9.495 USD and can be confirmed with a deposit payment of $3.000 USD.

Shipping starts in late January 2022

Watches will ship in batches of five per month on a first-come, first-served basis. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

Prior to shipping, a balance payment of $6.495 USD will be due, along with a shipping fee ($45 for customers within the United States and $85 for customers in other countries). If shipping within New York State, NYS tax will also be due.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS   

COLLABORATIONS 

Model:  Habring² ERWIN LAB03

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 Ref. E-LAB03

Movement     Manufacture in-house caliber A11MS hand-wound movement
Functions     Hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds
Features     Bronze guilloché dial by J.N. Shapiro, display back, in-house rose-gold-plated movement with patented central dead seconds, hand-adjusted to Horological Society of New York specifications.
Case     38.5mm stainless steel
Crystal     Sapphire crystal front and display back
Bracelet     Dark blue deerskin leather strap, made in Italy, with stainless steel tang buckle


MOVEMENT
    Manufacture in-house caliber A11s mechanical hand-wound movement, plated first with a layer of rhodium, followed by a second layer of 5N rose gold
    Diameter: 30mm Height: 5.7mm
    Center-mounted hour hand, minute hand, and jumping second hand
    28,800 half oscillations per hour (4Hz) with 48 hours of power reserve
    Amagnetic escapement with a Carl Haas balance spring in chronometer quality
    Elaborately refined by hand with polished edges, decorative grinding perlage, etc.
    65 service-relevant individual parts (126 parts in total)
DIAL
    Basketweave guillochage by J.N. Shapiro using eighty-year-old straight-line rose engine
    Outer ring grained with rare Water of Ayr stone
    Natural bronze tone shifts from salmon to rose depending on light, lacquered to prevent patination and discoloration
    Markings in deep, midnight blue provide excellent legibility
    Signed Habring² and “Dial by J.N. Shapiro
CASE
    Diameter: 38.5mm, Height: 10.5mm
    Stainless steel with step bezel
    Flat sapphire glass coated with anti-glare on both sides
    Double crown seal
    Water-resistant to 5 bar (50 meters)
    Italian-made, deerskin leather strap with steel tang buckle

STRICTLY LIMITED
    Manufactured by the Habring² atelier in Austria
    Presented in a handmade Douglas fir box with papers, spare parts, and official certificate of chronometry by the Horological Society of New York
    Limited edition of 66 (to recall the year of the founding of the HSNY, 1866), each individually numbered
    Delivery is limited to a maximum of 5 watches per month, beginning in late January 2022

WARRANTY   2 year guarantee
 

Unique edition
Limited Edition of 66 pieces.

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