Friday, August 27, 2021

Massena LAB x Habring² ERWIN LAB03 Chronometer Edition

Massena LAB x Habring² ERWIN LAB03 Chronometer Limited Edition 2021

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 Massena LAB COLLABORATIONS Habring²

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Introducing the Massena LAB x Habring² ERWIN LAB03, featuring a bronze, engine-turned dial by J.N. Shapiro and, for the first time ever, official Chronometer Certification from the Horological Society of New York.

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The dial of the LAB03 was designed by William Massena and hand-crafted by Joshua Shapiro in his Los Angeles workshop.  
 
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The tone of the dial, which shifts from salmon to rose depending on the light, is the natural color of the bronze metal and is not the result of painting or plating as is common practice. The dial is then lacquered to prevent patination and discoloration. The dial of the
LAB03 is J.N. Shapiro’s first dial to utilize bronze.

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J.N. Shapiro
uses an eighty-year-old straight-line guilloché machine to achieve the striking basketweave pattern, a centuries-old and arduous process which few dial makers will attempt today. The outer ring of the dial is then grained using Water of Ayr stone, a traditional watchmaking tool which is exceedingly rare today.

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The markings on the dial, along with the hands, are a deep midnight blue, providing excellent legibility against the bronze metal. The leather strap of the LAB03 is made in Italy from deerskin, also in a deep blue tone.

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The ERWIN LAB03 is made in Austria by Habring² with their in-house caliber A11MS hand-wound movement, featuring a patented deadbeat seconds complication. Turning the timepiece over reveals the movement, visible through a display back of sapphire crystal. The movement of the LAB03 has a unique and special finishing: it is first plated with a layer of rhodium, followed by a second layer of 5N rose gold.

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The LAB03 is the first watch to receive official Chronometer Certification from the Horological Society of New York, America’s first watchmaking guild. A keen eye will observe that the movement of the LAB03 has been stamped with the official HSNY Seal.

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Chronometer Certification from the HSNY indicates that a timepiece has met its rigorous testing protocols and has exceeded the international standards outlined in ISO 3159. Watches that pass the HSNY’s visual rate testing procedures are issued a physical certificate detailing that individual timepiece’s results, which is included with your delivery of the LAB03 .

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The Habring² ERWIN LAB03 will be produced in a limited edition of 66 pieces to commemorate 1866, the year the Horological Society of New York was founded. The LAB03 will be shipped in batches monthly, beginning in late January 2022.  

The LAB03 is offered at $9.495 USD and can be confirmed with a deposit payment of $3.000 USD.

Shipping starts in late January 2022

Watches will ship in batches of five per month on a first-come, first-served basis. 

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Prior to shipping, a balance payment of $6.495 USD will be due, along with a shipping fee ($45 for customers within the United States and $85 for customers in other countries). If shipping within New York State, NYS tax will also be due.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS   

COLLABORATIONS 

Model:  Habring² ERWIN LAB03

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 Ref. E-LAB03

Movement     Manufacture in-house caliber A11MS hand-wound movement
Functions     Hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds
Features     Bronze guilloché dial by J.N. Shapiro, display back, in-house rose-gold-plated movement with patented central dead seconds, hand-adjusted to Horological Society of New York specifications.
Case     38.5mm stainless steel
Crystal     Sapphire crystal front and display back
Bracelet     Dark blue deerskin leather strap, made in Italy, with stainless steel tang buckle


MOVEMENT
    Manufacture in-house caliber A11s mechanical hand-wound movement, plated first with a layer of rhodium, followed by a second layer of 5N rose gold
    Diameter: 30mm Height: 5.7mm
    Center-mounted hour hand, minute hand, and jumping second hand
    28,800 half oscillations per hour (4Hz) with 48 hours of power reserve
    Amagnetic escapement with a Carl Haas balance spring in chronometer quality
    Elaborately refined by hand with polished edges, decorative grinding perlage, etc.
    65 service-relevant individual parts (126 parts in total)
DIAL
    Basketweave guillochage by J.N. Shapiro using eighty-year-old straight-line rose engine
    Outer ring grained with rare Water of Ayr stone
    Natural bronze tone shifts from salmon to rose depending on light, lacquered to prevent patination and discoloration
    Markings in deep, midnight blue provide excellent legibility
    Signed Habring² and “Dial by J.N. Shapiro
CASE
    Diameter: 38.5mm, Height: 10.5mm
    Stainless steel with step bezel
    Flat sapphire glass coated with anti-glare on both sides
    Double crown seal
    Water-resistant to 5 bar (50 meters)
    Italian-made, deerskin leather strap with steel tang buckle

STRICTLY LIMITED
    Manufactured by the Habring² atelier in Austria
    Presented in a handmade Douglas fir box with papers, spare parts, and official certificate of chronometry by the Horological Society of New York
    Limited edition of 66 (to recall the year of the founding of the HSNY, 1866), each individually numbered
    Delivery is limited to a maximum of 5 watches per month, beginning in late January 2022

WARRANTY   2 year guarantee
 

Unique edition
Limited Edition of 66 pieces.

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Thursday, August 26, 2021

Bernhard Lederer – CENTRAL IMPULSE White Gold Edition

 

Bernhard LedererTribute to the Masters of Escapments CENTRAL IMPULSE Chronometer White Gold 44 mm Limited Edition - 2021

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CENTRAL IMPULSE CHRONOMETER
Innovation and elegance in chronometry

Following the initial introduction as a concept watch at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Central Impulse Chronometer now takes on its final form. This high-performance chronometer with a revolutionary escapement is housed in a 44 mm case, surrounded by two round and domed crystals that have the effect of slimming the timepiece. 
 
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Inside, an entirely new caliber, the result of several years of research, that merges a new type of escapement, constant force and a double gear train. The Central Impulse Chronometer’s dial captures the imagination with a pair of synchronized seconds hands moving in opposite directions – within two openings in the watch face bordered by interlaced circles forming the figure eight.
 
 
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The movement’s architecture and performance are matched by a refined execution and meticulous finishing down to the smallest detail.


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The watch that elicited such admiring gazes in its proof-of-concept iteration at the industry’s ‘Oscars’ in September 2020 has completed its aesthetic journey. Available in two limited editions, the Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer comes in an elegant case measuring 44 mm in diameter with a thickness of 12.2 mm – a profile refined by domed crystals front and back to emphasize this horological masterpiece’s slim silhouette. 
 
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The dial is remarkable by the unconventional view afforded on the exceptional mechanics inside: two circular opening reveal two synchronized hands moving in opposite directions. The sense of an artistic vision of the passage of time further comes through in the way the two circles are interlocked in a figure eight, a symbolic message of harmony, infinity and rebirth, of good fortune and prosperity for other cultures.

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The Calibre 9012, which builds on a unique three-dimensional architecture, is the product of several years of research. Among other things, this research yielded the system that gave its name to the piece, an entirely new high-performance double impulse escapement: the Central Impulse Chronometer.

The destination is the journey

In his workshop in St Blaise near Neuchâtel, in the Jura Mountain range known as the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, Bernhard Lederer decided to turn his nearly 40 years of experience to the Independent Double Wheel Escapement conceived in the late 20th century by George Daniels.
 
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It is important to note that Daniels himself had been standing on the shoulders of Abraham Louis Breguet who developed the concept of a natural escapement around the time of the French Revolution.
  
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What Bernhard Lederer set out to do, was to solve the weaknesses linked to this kind of escapement. For this reason, the escapement of Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer is of a different design.

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Bernhard Lederer
’s creation comprises two independent escapement wheels operating in alternation and connected to an anchor that is absolutely one of a kind. Its profile, rubies, lift angles, even the way it comes into contact with all the components it guides, make this an exceptional creation.

The freedom to optimize

To further optimize precision of his Caliber 9012, Bernhard Lederer installed these two escapement wheels at the end of two separate gear trains, each with its own barrel and its own 10-second constant force remontoire.  
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In smoothening the driving force to the extreme, optimizing the geometry of the escapement parts, paring down the weight of these energy-intensive components and reducing the internal friction of the escapement to a minimum, Bernhard Lederer has achieved a degree of watchmaking perfection rarely seen. By making the two escapement wheels independent of each other, he essentially freed them.

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This sophistication also comes through in the fact that the two second hands, each linked to its own escapement wheel, are permanently synchronized and show no drift in relation to each other. The precision of each watch is attested by a chronometer certificate.  

The Central Impulse Chronometer escapement

The initial spark for this project came from George Daniels work, with whom Bernhard Lederer had had numerous exchanges.  
 
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Lederer
decided to revisit Daniels’ work and adapt it to a wristwatch, well aware of all the challenges this implied. For one thing, he opted for a frequency of 3 Hertz to address how a watch is worn on the wrist arm constantly passes on shocks to the movement’s regulating organs.  
 
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They must adapt to changing dynamics and resume normal operations as quickly as possible, a sine qua non requirement for precision under everyday conditions.

Inertia where it matters

One of the innovations introduced by the Central Impulse Chronometer is to use titanium for the components – instead of traditional steel. Much lighter, the moving parts now have less inertia, which enables them to restart more quickly and consume less energy. As a result, the impulses generated by the escapement wheel to the balance wheel are optimized and disturbances are reduced, which ensures isochronism and therefore movement precision.

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The energy to power the movement is transmitted from two barrels via two independent gear trains, each linked to a dedicated escapement wheel. Furthermore, Bernhard Lederer has integrated a remontoir d'égalité, i.e. a constant-force mechanism, to accumulate a buffer stock of energy in a spring similar to that of the barrel, but slightly less substantial. 
 
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It is recharged at 10-second intervals, thus equalizing the driving force with a homogeneous degree of torque to ensure the energy delivered to the balance wheel varies extremely little if at all.

Poetry in the science of tribology

One element that sets the Central Impulse Chronometer escapement apart is the anchor – the metronome of the timepiece. Here, Lederer reimagined the geometry of the central pallet to increase performance. Now concave, it reduces the contact surface, avoiding any recoil of the escapement wheels.

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The impulse, given directly along a straight line connecting the escapement wheel to the balance wheel, is thus theoretically perfect. The axis for the impulse is constant in time, even when the balance wheel has a low amplitude, as caused by shock for instance. This reduces friction, further ensuring that energy distribution to the balance wheel is optimally timed to obtain improved isochronism, hence improved stability.

The elegance of an authentic chronometer

Besides technical mastery, Bernhard Lederer timepieces exemplify sophisticated design, each creation bearing witness to a strong artistic sensibility – and the Central Impulse Chronometer is no exception. The 44 mm round case in white gold has soft, elegant lines. Its thin polished bezel enhances the view on the dial. Two circular openings for the seconds hands offer a view of the Calibre 9012 and its most distinctive components, the rewinding mechanism and escapement.

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On the case back, a second sapphire crystal, domed and engraved and beveled – and a challenge to machine – that is identical to the crystal on the front. It showcases the three-dimensional, symmetrical, oblique and openworked architecture of the Caliber 9012. The barrel, wheel, winding mechanism, escapement and balance bridges are all skeletonized with slender geometric shapes.

Pinnacle of watchmaking creativity, engineering and design

The two large golden barrels contrast with the movement’s rhodium-plated finishes. The wheel spokes are tangential curves with a unique profile, a Bernhard Lederer hallmark.  
 
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The level of finishing is commensurate with the level of mechanical sophistication the Central Impulse Chronometer embodies. The variety and quality in the execution – from polishing, inward and outward beveling, graining, engraving and satin-finishing to juxtaposing matte and glossy surfaces – only serve to further magnify the Central Impulse Chronometer’s spectacular three-dimensional architecture of movement.

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The Central Impulse Chronometer by Bernhard Lederer is a masterpiece of meticulous and discreet watchmaking whose technical prowess and design excellence is underscored by accomplished craftsmanship and exceptional finishing. 
 
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The Central Impulse Chronometer is available in two limited series in two limited series in white gold, 25 pieces with a blue dial and the other 25 pieces with a rhodium-plated dial. 
 
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Tribute to the Masters of Escapments

Name:  CENTRAL IMPULSE CHRONOMETER


Reference:   9012

Case
  • Version 1: white gold 18K - Rhodium Dial
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  • Version 2: white gold 18K  - Dark blue Dial
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Diameter:    44 mm
Thickness:            12.2 mm
Case back:            Open, sapphire glass with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance:        3 ATM, approx. 30 metres
Dial

Guilloché (exclusive Lederer motif) with two circles interlocked in a figure
  • Version 1: openworked, rhodium                                    
  • Version 2: openworked, dark blue
Movement 
Mechanical, hand-wound
Caliber:                              9012
Number of components:     210
Number of jewels:        45 rubies
Frequency:            21'600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Diameter:             39.3 mm
Thickness:            5.98 mm
Special features:        Double barrels
                Two independent gear trains
                Two constant-force remontoires
                Two escapement wheels with central impulses
Winding & setting:         Two-position winding stem:
                Position 1: manual winding
                Position 2: setting the time
Finishing:            Frosted with hand-beveled bridges, wheels with circular graining and hand-    beveled spokes, steel parts black polished
Power reserve:             At least 42 hours  
Functions:     Hours, minutes, small seconds at 8 and 11 o’clock
Strap
  • Dark blue satin alligator (blue version)
  • Black satin alligator (rhodium version)
Pin buckle made of white gold

Limited to only 25 pieces

First delivery : September 2021


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BERNHARD LEDERER WATCHES
Contact us
Ewa Lederer, Sales International
Office time : 8.00 – 17.00
‭Tel. +41 32 552 17 10‬

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