AQUASTAR – Deepstar Chronograph Re-Edition

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

AQUASTAR – DEEPSTAR Chronograph Re-Edition 2020

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A STAR IS (RE)BORN
THE 2020 DEEPSTAR

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Founded in 1962 in Geneva/Switzerland,
AQUASTAR has since set  milestones in the evolutio\n of the dive watch.
AQUASTAR is reborn

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Distinctive in appearance, robust in build, and innovative in its function, quickly became the favorite of both sport and technical divers alike. 

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Great divers wore the Deepstar during their groundbreaking Conshelf II and III undersea habitat experiments and the watch was seen on the wrists of legendary ship crews for the better part of a decade.

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AQUASTAR – Deepstar Chronograph - 1962🔺

The great French freediver who set the world record in free diving twice, also wore a Deepstar when he dove to a record 75 meters on a single breath in 1968 and it was a favorite of his throughout the 1960s. Aquastar was the watch of serious divers, and the Deepstar was its jewel.

Diver, Innovator, Disruptor

Aquastar was founded in 1962 in the city of Geneva in Switzerland by Mr. Frédéric Robert.  Mr. Robert, a diver, a sailor, a pilot, a watchmaker, a mathematician. He also represented Switzerland at the 1948 yachting world championship.

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AQUASTAR – Deepstar Chronograph - 1962🔺

With extensive experience on the high seas, Robert set out to start a watch company that focused on developing watches, watch parts, and specialized instruments exclusively for underwater activities, ranging from sport diving to professional scientific excursions and underwater exploration, with the ultimate goal of making all diving exploits safer. 

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 It was November 1962 when Robert renamed his father’s company JeanRichard™ company to “Aquastar,” and it was here, where an entirely new underwater legacy was born. 

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AQUASTAR – Deepstar Chronograph - 1962🔺

Aquastar marked the first time in the Swiss watchmaking world where a company was dedicated to producing professional-grade watches and timing instruments in a single market segment. 

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AQUASTAR – Deepstar Chronograph - 1962🔺

And with a catalog that quickly grew into dive watches and other aquatic tools like dive compasses, depth gauges, and thermometers – all of which could be fit onto watch straps, Aquastar’s mission soon became quite a unique one at the time for a Swiss horology Maison.

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It was during this time that Mr. F. Robert distributed his range of diving instruments under the new name “Aquastar” almost exclusively through specialized stores instead of regular retailers.

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Given the socioeconomic environment of the times, this non-traditional sales tactic seemed risky at first, but it reflected Robert’s innovative approach to problem solving – a trait that would reflect in his many patented designs, as well as the backbone that would define the brand’s disruptive legacy many years later.

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In the picture below you see one of the first timepieces created by F. Robert in 1958, a water-resistant watch with a stop watch function, the “AQUASTART”.

DEEPSTAR, UNMISTAKABLY AN AQUASTAR

The 2020 Aquastar Deepstar is a faithful recreation of one of the most influential dive watches of the 60s. The unique and uncluttered mono sub counter dial, combined with the small running indicator, and the patented multiple dive decompression bezel table make the Deepstar an unmatched diver-oriented tool with an instantly recognizable design.

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The 2020 Deepstar retains all proportions of the original Deepstar from the 60s while relying on high end Swiss Manufacture automatic Chronograph movement instead and the manual wind Valjoux 23. This gives the new Deepstar the practicality and versatility you expect from a modern Chronograph.

A Legend of the Deep Resurfaces

The 1960s: divers were going deeper and staying down longer, mapping the ocean, discovering new worlds, and exploring the limits of human endurance and tolerance for pressure. But stay too deep too long and a diver can either run out of air or get the bends. 

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Enter Aquastar, a watch brand founded in 1962 with the sole aim of designing and building watches and instruments for aquatic use. Aquastar’s early watches were worn by navy divers, shipwreck hunters, champion freedivers and undersea explorers.

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But it was the Deepstar that really broke new ground when it appeared in 1965.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: AQUASTAR – Deepstar Chronograph Re-Edition

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Case
316L Stainless Steel case with highly domed, AR triple coated sapphire crystal
Diameter: 40.5mm
Height: 14.8mm
Bezel: Rotating, stainless steel with decompression engravings
Water resistance: 200 meters (pushers may be activated underwater)
Dial

• Steel grey sunburst dial design
• Blue sunburst dial design
• Black

Applied stainless steel markers/indices
Very high density filling old light Radium superluminova application
Movement
High-end Swiss Made Manufacture caliber
Mono-Compax Column Wheel mechanical Chronograph
Second chronograph at center
30mincounter at 3h
Running indicator at 9h
Physical dimensions: Ø30.40×7.90mm
Cage diameter: Ø30.00mm
Frequency 4Hz
Power reserve: 55h
Reassembly: Bi-directional automatic
Number of rubies: 28
Rotor: Aquastar decorated and skeletonized Rotor
Functions
Hour, minute and seconds indicators
Operation indicator at 9
30 minute stopwatch sub-counter at 3
Successive/Multiple dive non-decompression table calculator according to the French Navy dive tables
Strap
Set of 2straps included in the pre-order
Matching color
22mm lug width
Genuine original Tropic rubber strap with signed Aquastar buckle
Horween shell cordovan leather strap with signed Aquastar buckle
Stainless Steel BOR bracelet with fitted end links (available from January 2021)

Retail price: $3,590 (Pre-Order Price:$2,790)

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Press Release - 2021
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Blancpain – Métiers d’Art Boutique Edition for Taiwan 2020

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BLANCPAIN – Métiers d’Art Shakudō and Métiers d’Art Porcelaine Gold Boutique Edition for Taiwan 2020

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 Formosa clouded leopard: two Métiers d'Art models in a Boutique edition for Taiwan

With its Métiers d'Art collection, the Manufacture Blancpain offers a journey through cultures. Its openness to the world gives rise to unique creations in which watchmaking excellence and artistic expertise come together in praise of Nature. Today, Blancpain sets sail for Taiwan by dedicating two individual models to one of the wonders of the animal kingdom bound up with the island's history: the Formosa clouded leopard. 

The Formosa clouded leopard, endemic to the island, is an important symbol in the collective consciousness of the Taiwanese. The Paiwan aboriginal people consider the leopard to be a spiritual icon. If not extinct, the animal is extremely rare. Blancpain had a wish to represent this emblematic feline by drawing on its expertise in the realm of hand decoration.

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Like the Formosa clouded leopard, the artistic techniques practiced by Blancpain are rare in watchmaking. Some, such as miniature enamel painting, are only offered by a handful of watch companies worldwide. Others, such as shakudō, are produced exclusively by the Manufacture. The range of Blancpain's craftsmanship is vast and represents an age-old heritage. 

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Five skills, fully integrated within the Métiers d'Art workshops at the "Farm" in Le Brassus – as is always the case at Blancpain – have been selected to interpret the theme of the Taiwanese clouded leopard on the dial: the art of porcelain, miniature enamel painting, shakudō, engraving and damascening. The two one-of-a-kind models resulting from the meticulous work of Blancpain artisans represent the clouded leopard in its forest habitat. A skilled acrobat, this animal enjoys hiding in the trees. Trunks and foliage have been patiently painted or hand-carved in minute detail. The same naturally applies to the majestic feline.

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Also crafted using the enamel painting on porcelain and engraving techniques, along with shakudō, its tawny coat with spots reminiscent of clouds is strikingly realistic. On the engraved model, the craftsmen of the Manufacture have gone so far as to inlay the panther's whiskers hair by hair, made of gold threads almost as fine as a silk ribbon, in accordance with the art of damascening. The dials thus executed come to life beneath the artist's fingers, giving rise to the kind of emotions that stem from blending aesthetics with technical perfection.

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The Formosa clouded leopard enamel painted on porcelain is framed by a 33 mm white gold case with a diamond-set bezel. The accompanying movement is the Manufacture 1154 self-winding calibre, whose meticulous finishing is revealed through the back of the timepiece. The engraved and damascened shakudō model comes in a 45 mm red gold case. Traditionally favoured for highly decorative timepieces, the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the 15B hand-wound movement adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif.

The art of porcelain and miniature enamel painting

Miniature enamel painting is one of the numerous enamelling techniques carried out by the Blancpain Manufacture's artisans in the Le Brassus "Farm". The process of bringing painted enamel to a watch dial is particularly complex and begins with the fabrication of a surface for the painting. Blancpain's enamel dials are elaborated following a series of steps punctuated by long drying and firing phases. Presented in the form of a powder mainly composed of quartz, feldspar and kaolin, porcelain is first diluted in water. The resulting pulp is sieved and filtered to remove all residues and impurities, prior to being cast in dial-shaped molds.

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After demolding, the dials are dried for 24 hours before being fired at 1,000°C for 24 hours. This first step in the kiln hardens the dials and prepares them for enameling. Rigorously applied by hand to each dial, the enamel requires a second 24-hour firing at 1,300°C that serves to vitrify the porcelain and make it shiny, translucent and enduringly stable. Before any paintbrush touches the prepared surface of the dial, the artisans draw sketched studies of the image to be created. Often multiple trials are evaluated. Blancpain's craftsmen are looking for balance, not only with respect to the design itself, but also with regard to the way in which that design relates to other elements on the dial. Once the layout of the design has been decided, the next step is the preparation of the colors.

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The substance, based on enamel powder, is mixed to pine oil. The enamel painter makes his own palette in order to obtain the nuances that he needs. Certain shades originate from special recipes confected by Blancpain. Once the colors have been readied, the actual painting can begin. Due to the small scale of a watch dial, artisans work with staggeringly fine brushes. Since the colors are enamel themselves, the painting must be followed by oven firing at a temperature of 1200°C. Each resulting dial is therefore unique, ensuring owners of an enamel painted porcelain Blancpain watch possess a one-piece only model.

Engraved and shakudō damascening dials

Shakudō is a centuries old Japanese art form favored by samurai to embellish small elements of their katana. Blancpain’s artisans use it to create one of- a-kind watch dials. The introduction of this craft in watchmaking emanates from the Manufacture's innovative spirit, which constantly looks for new artistic techniques and unique decorative patterns matching its timepieces.

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Shakudō itself is a technique that transforms the color of a gold/copper alloy from its natural yellow/orange hue to a subtle nuanced black/gray. Often, the surface is reworked to bring complexity and texture to the black/gray color. At its most basic, the alloy, used in the form of a disk for the watch dial, is submerged in a warm chemical bath, composed of copper acetate (greyish green) named rokushō, until the desired color is achieved.

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This ancestral know-how lies on a trial and error process even in its most basic form. The disk is plucked repeatedly from the bath, rinsed and color examined, before re-emersion. When the artist reaches a perfect hue, the shakudō itself is finished. Although the chemical bath process lies at the center of this art, Blancpain associates it with additional artistic techniques such as engraving, damascening, and carving.

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Not only that, but the shakudō process is often repeated at various stages of the work to bring extra hues and depth to the designs brought onto the disk of the dial. Each Blancpain shakudō dial is unique, and this uniqueness runs deeper than artistic variation in carrying out coloring and engraving. Each particular design represents a special and one-unit piece, since no two designs will be the same. The dial featuring the Formosa clouded leopard is a perfect example. The work on creating such a timepiece begins with a paper sketch of the pose and the background decorations. The image of the leopard, along with other foreground elements, takes the form of a gold applique hand-engraved thanks to extremely precise tools.

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These appliques are also dipped in different salt baths to obtain the desired color effects, like the spots that adorn the feline's fur. They are applied to the surface of the dial and held in place by very fine pins, which are inserted into holes preliminary drilled into the dial. The back of the pins are thereafter carefully hammered to ensure that they will remain securely nestled in place.  Historically, many shakudō objects were decorated with damascening. This ancient art form consists of carving designs into a surface in the form of a trough, and thereafter hammering soft gold into the trough. As tradition dictates, no glue is use. The hammering process suffices to fix the gold filaments in place, which are then polished smooth. Blancpain's creations combining shakudō, engraving and damascening highlight the Manufacture's uniqueness in the watchmaking world. Blancpain is in fact the sole Maison to propose this marriage of artistic crafts.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Métiers d’Art 

 
Model: Métiers d’Art Porcelaine Enamel Edition

References:  6124-1919-55B - White Gold 33.20

Case
1 rang de diamants · 18ct white gold
Diameter:     33.20 mm 
Thickness:     9.15 mm
Water resistance:     3.00 bar
Between horns:     18.00 mm
Sapphire back
Engraved on the - "Unique Piece"
Dial
Porcelain dial with enamel painting
Hand-decorated and engraved gold-damascened Shakudō dial
Movement
Calibre 1154
Reference:   1154
Ultra-slim self-winding
Power-reserve indication on the bridge side
Balance frequency: 28,800 a/h or 4 hertz
Calibre thickness:  3.25 mm
Calibre diameter:  27.40 mm
Power reserve in hours:  100
Jewels:  28
Free sprung balance with gold regulation screws
Components:     190
Strap/Bracelet
Alligator lined with alzavel
Blue color strap
Gold folding clasp with logo

EDITION
Boutique exclusive model for Taiwan
Limited Edition - Unique pieces

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Métiers d’Art 

 
Model: Métiers d’Art Shakudō Engraved Edition

References:  6615-3616-55B - Red Gold 45

Case
1 rang de diamants · 18ct red gold

Diameter:     45.00 mm 
Thickness:     8.30 mm
Water resistance:     3.00 bar
Between horns:     18.00 mm
Sapphire back
Engraved on the - "Unique Piece"
Dial
Hand-decorated and engraved gold-damascened Shakudō dial
Shakudō, engraving and damascening
Movement
Calibre 15B
Reference:   15B
Ultra-slim hand-wound
Power-reserve indication on the bridge side
Balance frequency: 18,000 a/h or 3 hertz
Calibre thickness:  2.20 mm
Calibre diameter:  36.10 mm
Power reserve in hours:  40
Jewels:  20
Components:     117
Strap/Bracelet
Alligator lined with alzavel
Brown color strap
Gold folding clasp with logo

EDITION
Boutique exclusive model for Taiwan
Limited Edition - Unique pieces

*Each bar corresponds to a 10-metre water column.
Alligator leather straps - origin : Mississippiensis Métiers d’Art
Blancpain reserves the right to modify this model and its technical characteristics

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Press release - 2020
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Blancpain S.A.
Le Rocher 12
1348 Le Brassus
Suisse
International PR: Aude Rosati
Tel.  (+41) 21 796 3636
Fax (+41) 21 796 3637
E-mail: pr@blancpain.com
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