Thursday, June 25, 2020

Czapek – Antarctique Terre Adelie Edition

Czapek  Antarctique Terre Adélie Edition 2020

Czapek & Cie explores new territories

Geneva, 2020 – Czapek & Cie unveils a special model and starts a new chapter in its remarkable history. The Antarctique combines sophisticated style with an unprecedented in-house power movement pushing the boundaries of the popular sport-chic territory further.

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There's more to haute horlogerie than virtuosic complications. Movement design, rare and fine finishing, select materials or intricate case surfaces, and attention to detail, are all key factors that increase a timepiece's value in the eyes of the beholder.

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They are also at the heart of Czapek's latest model, the Antarctique, says CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel. "The message from our friends and shareholders was clear: To make a watch that exudes a feeling of preciousness, but could also be worn and admired every day...even at the end of the Earth”.

Under the hood

The Antarctique is a 40.5-millimeter three-hander, thin enough to slip comfortably under a cuff, and with a carefully-honed, edgy look. The transparent case back reveals the model's beating heart, the powerful, 30-millimeter SXH5.01 automatic caliber, conceived exclusively by Czapek’s concepteur, Daniel Martinez. Special attention was given to both performance and appearance, so the movement's parts are arranged for visual harmony and transparency.

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The architecture of the movement is also exceptional. At the root is a free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia provided by four gold masselotte weights, which enables the highest level of precision tuning for a mechanical watch. The micro-rotor was manufactured in La-Chaux-de-Fonds out of a very special ‘fully recycled’ 18-kt gold supplied by AGOSI.

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It was placed off-centre to allow a plunging view into the mechanism. The SXH5.01 runs at a fast 28,800 vph. The single barrel harbours a flat spring wound via the traditional Czapek ratchet wheel with five arms. The timepiece has a power reserve of at least fifty-six hours, a truly remarkable feat for a micro-rotor. Water-resistance to 120 meters makes it a natural for the sportive types who would like to keep their watch on while swimming.

 Elements of character

Every part of the Antarctique has been made with a level of care to detail close to obsession. For instance, the gear train is held in place by a series of seven handsome skeletonized bridges inspired by nineteenth-century pocket watches. 

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Their unique shape, which has been added to the Swiss design register, does recall the Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph rotor. It proves that stringent watchmaking craftsmanship can be further enhanced with a hint of free-floating creativity, as if form were an equal party to function. The straight-grained sides and the six chamfered inward angles are other hallmarks of a high-end timepiece.

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The most visible part of any watch is the dial. The Antarctique's dial was designed and manufactured by Metalem, a Czapek & Cie cooperation partner, using a unique lamé technique, invented by them 30 years ago and revamped today for this project. This technique consists in creating a series of traits on the dial with a comb.

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These characteristic striations give the colours more depth and starker reflections. Edgy three-dimensional indexes are applied on this handcrafted pattern as if they were bridges over the ocean. On the dial, the date window is positioned at 6 o'clock to maintain the Czapek aesthetics based on vertical symmetry.

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The hands design is reminiscent of a sword, sporty and easy-to-read, as well as the indexes.
The 40.5mm stainless steel case is integrated with an original double ‘trompe l'oeil’ curve, another unconventional design choice making this timepiece unique and exclusive. It is rounded off by an ergonomic brushed integrated bracelet, whose links mesh to form a highly polished "C" for Czapek.

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A great deal of attention was put on the bracelet, its feeling when placed on the wrist, comfort, lightness and its capability to be forgotten by its wearer and suddenly reveal its stunning beauty creating an intense pleasure. As Czapek has developed an exclusive quick-change system, an additional strap is provided. Customer can choose between a soft and elegant calf bracelet or a sportier-looking rubber strap.

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"This watch, whatever the colour, is a thrill for both the newcomer and the horological expert," says de Roquemaurel. "The neophyte will instinctively fall in love with the dial and the remarkable movement inside, while the expert can use the watch almost as an exhibition piece to explain how a movement works and what makes haute horlogerie so unique."

It's all in the name

The idea of the name Antarctique was originated by the family trip to Antarctica of one of Czapek’s most historical and active shareholders, a successful entrepreneur who ardently finances new businesses mostly for sustainable solutions.

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The name Antarctica raises a host of associations, from intrepid explorers who risked life and limb to discover the world's remotest parts, to the sheer breath-taking beauty Nature at its most pristine. Indeed, the Sixth Continent has become a preeminent symbol of environmental deterioration and the need for humans to step up their efforts to preserve the planet. "The name resonated, because it also represents our commitment to doing our part,” explains Xavier de Roquemaurel. "It's not only in the use of recycled gold for the rotor. It's about safeguarding other irreplaceable assets as well, like the many Swiss artisans dedicated to the traditional watchmaking art. This perfectly illustrates our motto, 'We Collect Rare People'."

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The Antarctique is available in several versions. The Terre Adélie will be in made in a limited edition of 99 pieces.

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It is a tribute to the French explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville who named an Antarctica island after his wife, Adèle, during his daring expedition to the continent in 1840.

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It comes in four colours, Deep Blue, Secret Alloy, Black Ink and Burgundy. The Orion Nebula, a special edition with hand-varnished dial, will be produced in 10 pieces only. Further versions, as well as a new ladies’ model, are scheduled for fall 2020.

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The Crew behind Antarctique:

    • Conception: Emmanuel Bouchet, Adrian Buchmann, Daniel Martinez, Xavier de Roquemaurel & Patrick Rossi
    • Components and movement manufacturing: AB Product, Arcofil, Atokalpa, Ceramaret, Chronode, CMT-Rickenbach, Comblemine, Crelier, Generale Ressort, Inca, Inodeco, MLV, MPS, Novassort, Precipro, Risa, Stocco - and a few standard components as well
    • Habillage: AB Product, Capsa, HMS Waeber, Jean Rousseau, Metalem, Wolf


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Everything you always wanted to know about the SXH5 Caliber* (*but were afraid to ask)

Czapek & Cie SXH5.01 Caliber is a three-hander self-winding micro-rotor movement.  Here are its main features:


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• Haute-Horology caliber conceived in-house and “from scratch” by the Czapek team,
• Exceptional architecture with 7 bridges cut out like lace allowing a clear view of the finishing (the gear train),
• Original bridges’ shape inspired by 19th century movements and by Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph’s rotor,
• Superlative finishes with hand chamfering of 6 inward angles and drawing of the flanks,
• 8.8 Newton mm single barrel loaded by a micro-rotor in certified 100% recycled 18k gold to free up the view on the movement and let it remain reasonably flat and thin (4.5mm),
• High autonomy power reserve of 56 hours,
• 100% Swiss made (gold excepted) with a majority of components exclusive to Czapek,
• 8 mg.cm² variable inertia balance wheel to allow precise adjustment and excellent chronometry,
• Powerful movement with an optimal balance of inertia and torque to achieve perfect isochronism and power horse versatility,
• Exclusive calendar positioned at 6 o'clock to stay true to Czapek’s aesthetics based on vertical symmetry,
• The 15 movement's partners and co-creators of its exclusive components - such as the prototype maker Emmanuel Bouchet, Atokalpa or Générale Ressort - represent the ‘crème de la crème of Swiss watchmaking and joined the Czapek team to strengthen its horizontal manufacture in one of the purest version of the We Collect Rare People spirit.

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About Czapek & Cie
 

François Czapek was a Czech-born Polish watchmaker who fled to Geneva in 1832 after fighting in the Polish uprising. He immediately started his own atelier and in 1839 entered into a partnership with Antoine Norbert de Patek, introducing him to the world of watchmaking. In 1845, at the end of their partnership, he created Czapek & Cie and achieved considerable success. He became the official watchmaker of Napoleon III and opened, what was most likely the first watchmaking boutique on the Place Vendome in Paris. He wrote a book about watchmaking, but unfortunately, he died before publishing a second one. Czapek & Cie has been revived in 2015 with an exceptional collection, whose leading model won the Public Prize in the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie in Geneva in November 2016. This collection takes its inspiration from an 1850’s Czapek time piece. It features a beautiful enamel dial and a 7-day proprietary movement perfectly combining craftsmanship with design and exclusivity with rarity. The Company second collection, a suspended Tourbillon with a second time-zone, was launched one year later in 2017, while the first Czapek chronograph Faubourg de Cracovie was unveiled at Baselworld 2018. The company is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:   GARRICK Antarctique Terre Adélie Edition
Steel case, hand-decorated lamé dial. Brand new SXH5 caliber.
Limited edition of 99 pieces, subscription only until July 15

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MOVEMENT
- Calibre SXH5: Czapek's in house self-winding
mechanical movement
- Diameter: 30 mm – 13 lines ¼
- Height: 4.2 mm
- Number of parts: 193
- Jewels: 28
- Swiss lever escapement, variable-inertia balance
fitted with four gold inertia-blocks
- Frequency: 4 Hz – 28’800 VpH
- Power winding system: Micro rotor with an 18K
recycled gold mass
- Power-reserve > 56 hours on one single barrel
- Barrel torque: 8.8 Nmm
FINISH
- Open ratchet, sandblasted black bridges,
bevelling, straight-grained sides, six hand-chamfered inward angles
FUNCTIONS
- Hours, Minutes & Seconds
- Date at 6 o'clock
CASE
- 40.5mm steel case
- Height: 10.6 mm
- Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment
- Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side
- Water resistance: 120m
- Screwed-down crown
DIAL
- Hand-decorated lamé dial available in Secret
Alloy, Deep Blue, Black Ink and Burgundy
- Luminescent, steel "Sword" hands
BRACELET
- Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive "Easy Release" system
- Additional calf leather or rubber strap

PRODUCTION
- Limited edition of 99 pieces maximum
- Online subscription only, ending July 15th 2020

INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTION PRICE
- CHF 18’000 or $ 18’900 (US duties incl.)


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Press Release - 2020
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Czapek & Cie – 2, Rue Saint-Léger, 1205 Genève Suisse
Contact presse: Valeria Garavaglia Pedroni
Email: valeria@czapek.com | +41 79 314 08 54
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Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Glashutte Original – SENATOR Cosmopolite Midnight Blue


Glashutte OriginalSENATOR Cosmopolite Midnight Blue Automatic - 2020

 By day or night - the time at a glance around the world

In 2020 Glashütte Original presents the sequel to this success story; the new Senator Cosmopolite debuts in stainless steel with dial in striking midnight blue and with a minimalistic design. It is the ideal companion for all who travel frequently or maintain international contacts – and of course for all friends of the renowned German art of watchmaking. 

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The new version of this successful model from the Saxon watchmaker features an exceptionally high-contrast dial in striking midnight blue. The dial ensures optimal legibility for the wearer, anywhere in the world and under all lighting conditions.

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Travelling the world demands not just physical fitness but also a clear head. If one crosses country borders and travels from one climate or time zone to another as a matter of course, it is important to keep abreast of time.

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With the Senator Cosmopolite from Glashütte Original, contemporary globetrotters are well equipped to face any challenge while travelling. The new version of this successful model from the Saxon watchmaker features an exceptionally high-contrast dial in striking midnight blue. The dial ensures optimal legibility for the wearer, anywhere in the world and under all lighting conditions.

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nuine globetrotters know only too well how valuable visibility can be since night flights in darkened airplanes are as much a part of their life as sleepless nights after landing on another continent. And when the time outside and the body clock are no longer in sync, a reliable timepiece is absolutely essential.

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To address this point, the watchmakers at Glashütte Original and their colleagues at the in-house dial manufactory in Pforzheim have optimised the legibility of the Senator Cosmopolite's dial visuals. Even by daylight, the new, sword-shaped hour and minute hands are clearly set off from the galvanic, midnight blue dial with its sunray finish.

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Equally easy to read are the numerals, details and lettering printed in white on the different displays. The twelve characteristic rod index appliques complete the high-contrast design.This exquisite timepiece reveals all its radiance under conditions of low light. The central hands and the hour appliques are inlaid with white Super-LumiNova.

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If one's journey demands adaptation to time zone changes, one will certainly find the Senator Cosmopolite to be a reliable ally - all the more so when sleepily reaching for one's watch on a hotel bedside table or glancing at the dial during a long night flight.

Complex and well thought out: functions for the world traveller

With regard to reliability: limitless functionality has always been a signature feature of the Senator Cosmopolite.

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The manufactory's automatic Calibre 89-02 movement with 72-hour power reserve makes it possible to display the time of day in two time zones at once, freeing the wearer from the need to calculate the time difference.

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A time zone ring offers a choice of all 35 world time zones currently in use, each of them displayed using an official IATA location code representing an international airport in the relevant time zone.

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The 24 time zones that are offset from Greenwich Mean Time by a full hour are represented by an IATA code in white. Further eight time zones with half-hour offsets and the three time zones with three-quarter hour offsets are indicated by an IATA code in light blue.

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The two windows at 8 o'clock allow the wearer to set summer time (Daylight Saving TimeDST) and standard time (Standard Time - STD), and day/night indicators for both home and destination (local time) can be read at a glance. Any necessary adjustments of the date while traveling forward or back in time, i.e. to the east or west respectively, are handled by the movement's intricate mechanics.

Stylish design in blue and white

On the new blue dial, too, the central hour and minute hands indicate the local time, while the home time is displayed on the auxiliary dial at 12 o'clock. The helpful day/night indicator and integrated power reserve display can also be found here. The small second at 6 o'clock, the day/night indicator for the local time at 9 o'clock and the signature Glashütte Original Panorama Date at 4 o'clock complete the well thought-out design of the Senator Cosmopolite.

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Elegance, in its most essential form in the style of Glashütte Original, cuts a fine figure with the new form of the hands and appliques against the blue background. The dial is framed by an alternately polished/ satin-brushed, 44-millimetre stainless steel case.

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A blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with pin buckle or fold fastener ensures the new "Cosmopolite" makes an impeccable appearance on the wearer's wrist. The new timepiece is also available with a stainless steel bracelet with an 8-step fine adjustment mechanism.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

Collection : SENATOR
 
Model: Senator Cosmopolite Blue Stainless Steel
Models with Louisiana Alligator leather strap blue

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Model: Senator Cosmopolite Blue Stainless Steel
Models with stainless steel bracelet)

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Reference:
Ref. 1-89-02-05-02-01 (pin buckle, 18 mm)
Ref. 1-89-02-05-02-30 (fold fastener)
Ref. 1-89-02-05-02-70 (stainless steel bracelet)


Case
Diameter: Ø 44 mm
Height: 10.8 mm
Material:  stainless steel
Waterproof up to: 5 bar
Glass: sapphire crystal, both sides anti-reflective
Bottom: sapphire crystal
Dial
Galvanic blue with sunray finish, appliques with Super-LumiNova
Ø display: 38.8 mm,
Hands: blue
Movement
Glashütte Original manufactory movement 
Automatic movement

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CALIBRE 89-02
Dimensions: Ø 39.2 mm, height 8 mm 
Balance: screw balance with 4 regulation screws gold 14 ct
Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 Hz
Power reserve: 72 Stunden
Balance spring: Anachron
Shock protection: Incabloc
Jewels: 63 jewel
Additional details: 
Automatic movement, home time with hour and minute (off-centre), destination time
zone with hour and minute (central), 35 time zones incl. ½ h and ¾ h differences,
daylight saving time/standard time, small second (off-centre), second stop, 

Panorama Date, day/night indicator (home time), day/night display (destination time zone), 
power reserve display, exquisitely finished movement, polished steel parts, polished/blued
screws, three-quarter plate with Glashütte stripe finish, bevelled edges, skeletonized
rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, adjustment of rate by adjustment screws, fine
adjustment of rate symmetry by swan-neck spring
Strap
Louisiana Alligator leather strap blue AW682020325
Width: 21/18 mm

Price  From 20,700 Euro
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Also available:
REF. 1-89-02-03-02-01 - stainless steel buckle
REF. 1-89-02-03-02-30 - stainless steel fold fastener std., 18 mm
REF. 1-89-02-03-02-50 - stainless steel short fold fastener, 18 mm

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Press Release - 2020
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For further information please contact:
Glashütte Original I Press Office
Altenberger Straße 1 I D-01768 Glashütte i. Sa.
Telephone: +49 (0) 350 53 46 - 0
E-Mail: pr@glashuette-original.com
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