Thursday, May 28, 2020

Franck Muller – VANGUARD™ Racing Skeleton 2020

Franck MullerVANGUARDV45 Rising Skeleton Carbon - 2020


The VanguardRacing Skeleton collection from Franck Muller takes inspiration from the world of automotive competition. It houses a stylish engine-turned skeletonized movement.

Inspired by the motorsport engines, the automatic movement and the frame structure of the Vanguard Racing Skeleton have been significantly lightened. To realize this dynamic timepiece, technical materials such as carbon fiber, titanium and aluminum have been chosen.

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The Vanguard Racing Skeleton features hours, minutes, seconds and date. The central seconds counter, thanks to a smoked sapphire glass, provides an accurate display while allowing great visibility of the movement. The seconds indications start from the bottom instead of the top as in an automobile rev counter, allowing the owner to read the seconds from both ends of the hand.

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The white hand with red tip and the bicolor second indications further reinforce the idea of a rev counter, making you want to push the hand into the red zone. To further accentuate the skeleton design, the date numbers have also been fully skeletonized.

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The strap is subtly integrated into the case with the help of two unseen screws, instead of the regular spring-bar technique. The rubber inside the strap effortlessly takes the shape of the wrist, combining comfort and aesthetics, while the Alcantara® suede reminds the covering of a sports car cockpit.

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The Vanguard™ Racing Skeleton is available in 18k rose gold, stainless steel, titanium and carbon.

Inspired by automotive competition, the Vanguard™ Racing Skeleton collection calls in for pure and stylish engine-turned aesthetics.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  VANGUARD 

Model: VANGUARDV45 Skeleton Rising

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Reference V 45 SC DT RACING SQT (ER)

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 25.60 mm x Height 3.60 mm
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations/ hour
Number of Components: 158
Number of Jewels: 21

Movement decoration:
Côtes de Genève and sunray brushing on the bridges
Skeletonized oscillating weight
Côtes de Genève on the bottom plate
Diamond polishing on the bridges
24k gold bath, rhodium treatment and black PVD treatment
45 ° polishing and sunray brushing on the ratchet
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date at 6 o’clock
Case
Vanguard case
Carbon
Red ergal inserts on both sides of the case
Width: 44.00 mm X 53.70 mm X 12.80 mm
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
Skeleton dial with applied indexes and Arabic numerals meticulously painted and applied by hand 
Strap
Hand-sewn Alcantara® suede
Brushed folding buckle
Titanium with black PVD treatment

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Available in 18k rose gold, stainless steel, titanium

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Press release 2020
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Franck Muller Flagship store : 
Rue de la Tour-de-l'Ile 1
1204 Genève - Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 818 00 30
Whatsapp : +41 78 836 33 17​
E-mail: delisle@franckmuller.ch
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Wednesday, May 27, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER Grande Tradition Tourbillon Edition


Jaeger-LeCoultreMASTER Grande Tradition Grande Complication Tourbillon Minute Repeater Edition Unique piece - 2020

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The new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

HARMONY OF STARS AND SOUND

In the heart of the Swiss Jura, the Vallée de Joux embraces a serene and calm atmosphere through its forests and mountains. The sky’s purity reveals its most profound mysteries, making it the ideal place for astrologers to study the astral phenomenon.

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The new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication harnesses more than a century and a half of accumulated expertise. This masterpiece of mechanical engineering incorporates two of the most romantic yet technically challenging complications in horology – a minute repeater and a celestial vault. The complex mechanism is further elevated by an orbital flying tourbillon.


MINUTE REPEATER MASTERY

Over the past 150 years, minute repeaters have had a major presence in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s portfolio of complicated timepieces. La Grande Maison’s mastery of chiming watches is confirmed by more than 200 calibres, including some 100 minute repeaters made before the year 1900. Since the mid-1990s, when Jaeger-LeCoultre revived this noble horological legacy, its engineers and designers have worked to redefine the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing technology to serve and safeguard horology’s most treasured traditions.

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Considered by watchmakers to be the most challenging – and rewarding – of all horological complications to master, a minute repeater is not only a timepiece but also a miniaturised musical instrument. One of the most important elements of a chiming watch is the way in which sound is transmitted from within the watch to be heard by the human ear. The calibre 945 gathers all the accumulated expertise in chiming mechanisms of the Grande Maison, since its foundation in 1833.

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One of the most important elements of a chiming watch is the way in which sound is transmitted from within the watch to be heard by the human ear. Capitalising on the superior acoustic qualities of synthetic sapphire crystal, Jaeger-leCoultre’s patented ‘crystal gongs’ (introduced in 2005) are soldered directly to the sapphire crystal, which acts as an amplifier. The square-profile gongs introduced two years later provide a flat striking surface for the hammers, ensuring more consistent and powerful strikes, while the additional material provides a greater vibrational mass and thus a fuller sound.

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Capitalising on the superior acoustic qualities of synthetic sapphire crystal, Jaeger-leCoultre’s patented ‘crystal gongs’ are soldered directly to the sapphire crystal, which acts as an amplifier. The square-profile gongs as well as the articulated trebuchet hammers ensure more consistent and powerful strikes.

ASTRONOMICAL WATCHMAKING

The new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication embodies Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s mastery of astronomical complications in its celestial vault complication. As well as turning on its own axis in 60 seconds, the tourbillon makes a complete, anti-clockwise circuit of the dial in one sidereal day. Slightly shorter than a solar day (on which we base civil timekeeping), a sidereal day is based on Earth’s rotation measured relative to the ‘fixed’ stars.

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In order to depicts a stunning sky-chart of the Northern Hemisphere night sky as seen from the 46th parallel – the latitude of Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s home, Jaeger‑LeCoultre talented watchmakers have invented a complex mechanism based on the sidereal day. The sidereal day is used by astronomers to follow the apparent movement of the stars across the night sky. A golden sun-shaped pointer set at the edge of the disc of constellations indicates the date, the month, and the signs of the Zodiac, as well as the 24-hour scale that is marked on the inner flange of the dial.

Civil time is read on the two concentric rings that complete the dial: applied hour indexes on the first ring and minutes on the silvery-white outer ring.

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Slightly shorter than a solar day (on which we base civil timekeeping), a sidereal day is based on Earth’s rotation measured relative to the ‘fixed’ stars, which takes precisely 23 h, 56 min and 4.1 seconds. The sidereal day is used by astronomers to follow the apparent movement of the stars across the night sky.

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Ensuring the utmost precision of the watch, the Orbital Flying Tourbillon makes a complete, anti-clockwise circuit of the dial in one sidereal day.


INNOVATIVE DESIGN

An exceptional movement merits an exceptional habillage and the new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication brings fresh artistic expression to this marriage of complications. A multiple-level dial amplifies the beauty of the celestial theme while also showcasing the orbiting tourbillon. The delicate filigree which forms a dome, represents the connection between astronomy and horology. This structure echoes the pattern of the constellations, which highlights the complications of this calibre.

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The Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect complement to the artistry of the dial and the sophistication of the movement. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel is complemented by broad bevels on the lugs; the hollowed-out sides of the lugs add dynamic tension, while the repeater slide is tapered to harmonise beautifully with the curving case sides.

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Reaffirming Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in design and mastery of artistic crafts, the timepiece is offered in two versions: one marries the warm glow of pink gold to a black dial, while the other combines deep blue tones with the coolness of white gold and the discreet sparkle of baguette-cut diamonds, which are set on the bezel.A multiple-level dial amplifies the beauty of the celestial theme while also showcasing the orbiting tourbillon.

On the deepest level of the dial, a midnight blue or black disc (depending on the model) is decorated with tiny stars. Above it, a delicate filigree forms a dome, its structure echoing the pattern of the constellations marked on the convex celestial disc. The star chart depicts the Northern Hemisphere night sky, as seen from the 46th parallel – the latitude of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s home in the Vallée de Joux.



The new Master Grande Tradition case, introduced in 2019’s two minute repeaters, is a perfect complement to the artistry of the dial and the sophistication of the movement. Different surfaces are micro-blasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light and emphasise the details.

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Even the most beautiful chime can be marred by background noise – a problem that Jaeger-LeCoultre resolved 125 years ago, with its patented silent strike governor. Using centrifugal forces to regulate chiming, it eliminates the background buzz characteristic of older striking mechanisms. Recognised as a benchmark, it is now used in almost all chiming watches of the Grande Maison.

The new Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of astronomical complications in its celestial vault complication, which defines the dial of the watch. The elegant finishes complement the sophistication of the dial embarking the timepiece into the elevated galaxy of High Watchmaking.
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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: MASTER Grande Tradition Grande Complication Tourbillon Edition

Reference: Q5263480 - White gold
Reference: Q5262460 - Pink gold

Movement
Manual mechanical movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 945
Power reserve: 40 hours
Frequency: 21.600 A/h /3 Hz vibrations/ hour
Number of Components: 193
Number of Jewels: 21

Functions
Hours/Minutes
  • Zodiac calendar
  • Month
  • 24-hour indication
  • Orbital flying tourbillon indicating the sidereal time
  • Minute repeater with cathedral ‘crystal gongs’ soldered directly to the sapphire crystal
  • Celestial disc with star chart indicating the constellations in the northern hemisphere
Case
  • White gold
  • Pink gold
Satin, micro-blasted and polished finishes
Pink gold or white gold with bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds (💎44 diamonds – 3.76 

Dimensions: 45 mm
Comprising more than 80 parts
Case back: Open
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
  • Black dial with golden laser-welded structure (pink gold version)
  • Blue dial with silvered laser welded structure (white gold version)
Recto Hands Baguette
Strap
Hand-sewn blue or brown alligator leather lining
Gold folding-clasp

Limitation:
Limited to 8 pieces


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Press Release - 2020
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