Wednesday, October 16, 2019

GREUBEL FORSEY – HAND MADE 1 Edition


















GREUBEL FORSEY –  Major Projects HAND MADE 1 White Gold Edition 2019

The Summit Of True Hand-Watchmaking

With 95% of this timepiece – including the hairspring – made using only hand-operated tools, one single timepiece requiring an extraordinary 6,000 hours work (equal to three years man-hours), Hand Made 1 by Greubel Forsey takes traditional watchmaking to a new unprecedented summit. Never before has a hand-made timepiece exhibited such a high level of workmanship and precision. This timepiece, unique in the history of watchmaking, is the fruit of a technical and human endeavour of epic proportions, enlisting extraordinary talents and setting the course for the future.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO






























Before the Industrial Revolution and the advent of mass production, watch components had to be made one by one requiring very specific skills, tools and completely hand-operated machines. Today, with industrialisation, excellence in hand craftsmanship has virtually disappeared and these skills are not even taught in schools. Throughout their training and careers, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have amassed extensive experience of hand craftsmanship, both in prototypes or replacement parts for restoration.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO


































Deeply attached to these ancestral skills at the core of such a rich irreplaceable watchmaking heritage, the Naissance d’une Montre 1 adventure with Time Æon Foundation and their determination to pass on their know-how to future generations, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have now gone to unprecedented lengths by creating Hand Made 1, the first incarnation of this out-and-out approach.

An extraordinary challenge

Greubel Forsey is well known for pushing back boundaries in its research and creations to accomplish what had never even been thought of before. Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have already demonstrated this by inventing and perfecting a completely new generation of tourbillons (Tourbillon 24 Secondes, Double Tourbillon 30°, and Quadruple Tourbillon) that have since become references in mechanical watchmaking. They have also proven their inventiveness by opening up new horizons in terms of energy and space in the field of nanotechnology.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO






































This quest for excellence and the conviction to explore each new venture’s full potential has been a key driving force for the Hand Made 1 project for several years. For Greubel Forsey, it’s not only about reviving ancient techniques, forgotten gestures and skills. The aim is to take these skills and know-how to a previously unattained level of excellence and precision, furthering them in the same spirit of constant improvement that has always guided the Inventor watchmakers.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO




























The goal is to resurrect the ancestral art of hand craftsmanship and reinforce it with standards of workmanship and precision rivalling even modern production equipment. To fulfil this exceptional challenge and reach micron- scale accuracy using ancestral tools, the artisans must obtain a precision that such traditional machines themselves cannot easily offer. They rely on “the intelligence of the hand”, endlessly correcting minute details to edge ever closer to perfection, achieve the required quality and ensure perfect and flawless operation. In this process, the time spent is of secondary importance.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO



























A project of this scale could not be simply incorporated within existing structures or even to just one or two watchmakers. To complete this epic feat, Greubel Forsey had to build a team of the most skilled craftsmen in each field, principally from its workshops, as well as several external talents. This true “family” worked together in complete harmony.

Hand Made 1, a landmark in the history of watchmaking

Greubel Forsey unveils the result of this unprecedented watchmaking approach: Hand Made 1 – an hours/minutes/seconds timepiece with a tourbillon. This creation took an uncharted course because simply replicating an existing calibre by hand was out of the question. The Hand Made 1 has been entirely created from scratch.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO




























The movement construction, traditional machining and hand-finishing specialists reflected at length on each of the 272 movement components and 36 case parts, understanding and concentrating on what the hand-made approach allows and how to get the very best out of it. The same questions were asked at every stage: “How can we design this part to be able to make it using traditional tools or machines such a jig borer or lathe? And which shape can we give it so the artisans’ intelligent hands can ensure extraordinary precision and the finest craftsmanship?”

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO






































The Hand Made 1 therefore demanded a total overhaul of the creative process, involving the people who would make and decorate each component from the very beginning. This project’s daring was only matched by the creativity and inventiveness required to find new technical solutions. Some parts of the movement were redesigned in order to simplify them. Meanwhile for other mechanisms such as the tourbillon, the number of components had to be increased to allow each part to be made by hand. The timepiece’s relatively modest dimensions (43.5 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm thick) further heightened the difficulty of this task.

An almost unimaginable feat

Finally, an entirely handmade timepiece, from the movement to the case, to the leather strap, the dial and the hands – the only exceptions being the sapphire crystals, the case gaskets, the spring- bars, the jewels, and the mainspring. To achieve the 95% handmade level with such a high standard of excellence required an astronomical 6,000 hours of work for one single timepiece – the equivalent of three years man-hours, where this total time only takes into account the pure watchmaking – and not the creation and development time.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO







































To obtain the 308 components of the Hand Made 1 respecting Greubel Forsey criteria, over 800 individual parts had to be made. It took almost 35 times longer to make the complete tourbillon cage than for a standard high-end tourbillon. When just a dozen operations on an automatic lathe effortlessly yield some 500 screws, a single screw, as small as it may be, requires up to 12 individual operations taking up to 8 hours to make just one. Finally to hand make one wheel of the Hand Made 1 takes 600 times longer than that of a high-end industrial wheel.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO





























Greubel Forsey’s attention to detail naturally includes the performance of the timepiece. Here, Hand Made 1 displays unprecedented prowess for a hand-made watch, its performance certified by Greubel Forsey.

Hand Made beauty

In this unique endeavour of Greubel Forsey’s handmade craftsmanship, each component tells a tale. It has its own development process and journey that makes it unique, undergoing long hours of cutting from the raw material guided only by the eye and the human hand. The technical and aesthetic perfection of this Hand Made 1 timepiece is immediately visible and in true Greubel Forsey style, it attributes equal importance to the invisible beauty of all the parts concealed inside the case.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO






















The journey begins with the regulating organ, entirely produced by hand in Greubel Forsey’s workshops, including the balance spring, fashioned from an alloy in the Atelier. The balance spring is then rolled in a hand operated rolling mill (without computer assistance), a process that is certainly an endangered know how – only a few balance springs can be made at a time – whereas in contemporary industrial production, hundreds or thousands are automatically produced at once. The balance wheel is also entirely hand-made with an extraordinary standard of precision and finish. The escape wheel, with its 20 individually-cut teeth, each with four surfaces that are later ground, is a true tour de force. Meanwhile the machining and finishes of the escape lever alone require a month and a half of work.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO






















The hand making of the tourbillon carriage – with its 69 components weighing a total of 0.521 g – represented another sizeable challenge, as it is not possible to replicate the same geometry of a CNC machine on a traditional jig borer. An increased number of parts are consequently required to form this exquisite, almost airborne mechanism.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO






































All the movement’s components are of course then hand finished true to the finest watchmaking tradition, including the bridges with their polished inner and outer vertical flanks, the unique “Gratté” mainplate, and the wheels with hand polished bevels top and bottom (40 sharp internal angles for a five-spoke wheel).

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO






































The open dial stands out with its hand-enamelled chapter rings, paired with elegant, finely shaped flame-blued steel hands.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO







































Naturally, the 18k white gold case is also, handmade, thanks to a pantograph mechanical lathe fitted with turning tools, before being patiently satin-finished on the sides and polished on the upper surfaces.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO



Created as just two or three timepieces per year, the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 is destined to become a new watchmaking landmark that unites both past and future.

Click , to see the large size. BIG FOTO




































This new step towards the summit in the finest of craftsmanship is substantiated on the dial at 6 o’clock, where the inscription HAND MADE replaces the usual SWISS MADE.

-----------------------------
Press Release - 2019
-----------------------------
-------------------------------------------------
GREUBEL FORSEY SA
For further information: 
Communication Department 
press@greubelforsey.com – +41 79 194 2884
Eplatures-Grise -16 P.O. Box 670 
2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds - Switzerland
+41 32 925-4545
+41 32 925-4502
----------------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Greubel Forsey
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.GreubelForsey.com

Tuesday, October 15, 2019

Ulysse Nardin – Classico HOURSTRIKER PHANTOM « Devialet » Edition


Ulysse Nardin Classico HOURSTRIKER PHANTOM « Devialet » Titanium Limited Edition

HOURSTRIKER PHANTOM
A LIMITED EDITION WITH DEVIALET

Devialet, the French company that’s revolutionizing high definition audio with its luxury oval speakers, and the legendary watchmakers Ulysse Nardin are working together to create a limited edition of 85 striking watches: an enhanced audible experience worn on the wrist.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Le Locle, October 14, 2019. Doing things in half-measures is not a part of Ulysse Nardin or Devialet's DNA. Since the inception of both brands, each has been driven by their desire to showcase their work to the world. For one, high-flying timepieces, for the other, new revolutionary sound systems, both thanks to their patented technologies. By combining the strengths of their two Research and Development departments, the two brands have come together to create a unique sound experience in the form of one exceptional watch: the Hourstriker Phantom. The acoustic performance and sound quality make it an unparalleled striking watch in the watchmaking industry.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

"Our main goal was to create a high-performance striking watch" explains Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin"Moreover, it was fate: Emmanuel Nardin, one of Devialet's founders who co-developed the Hourstriker Phantom model is in fact a descendant of the Ulysse Nardin family. You simply couldn't make it up. "


THE ULTIMATE SOUND FOR 
THE DISCERNING CONNOISSEUR

Devialet offers some of the most advanced "made in France" sound systems in the world, for those music fans in search of the perfect listening experience, thanks to Devialet's more than 160 patented technologies.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Their flagship product, The Phantom, a new generation of high-definition connected speakers, is capable of creating sound up to 108 dB SPL (the Gold Phantom model being the most powerful in the collection). It is the size of a motorcycle helmet and generates unrivaled quality of sound for an intense and revolutionary emotional experience. Phantom now puts its name to Ulysse Nardin's new striking mechanism.

HEAR THE TIME

If Devialet speakers have won over music fans, the Hourstriker Phantom will appeal to those passionate about striking watches. This watch that rings on the hour and half-hour on command, not only allows you to tell the time, but also to hear it.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Before there was electric lighting, striking watches were originally conceived with the aim to ring on the hour in the dark and are the embodiment of a genuine dream. Since the 1980s, under the impetus of Rolf Schnyder, Ulysse Nardin is one of the first watchmakers to bring these timekeepers back to life.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Hand in hand, Devialet engineers, experts in distortion phenomena, collaborated with Ulysse Nardin's watchmakers specialized in sound to redefine each step in the audio signal chain sent from Ulysse Nardin's striking mechanisms to deliver the best performance ever recorded on a striking watch, 85 dB to 100mm.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

With a classic striking mechanism, a hammer hits a timbre generating sound frequencies, when emitted, tells the time on command. However, in the Hourstriker Phantom, the heel of the timbre is fixed by a system of torsion arms that change the direction of the action forces induced by the timbre's vibrations. In a classic system, the forces produced are essentially in the watch's movement, which generates a small amount of air that is then displaced by the various components of the watch.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO
With the Hourstriker Phantom, the action forces created by the timbre thus find their way outside of the watch itself. These forces are vigorously transferred using a transmission arm to a thin membrane, which is found on the bottom side of the watch. As the membrane has a large surface area, a large amount of air is displaced, which results in a high sound level. One could compare this to a loudspeaker and its cone and membrane.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO
The bottom side of the watch is perforated with eight openings under its membrane that allows the sound to travel and contains the UN-610 automatic manufacture movement. The result is stunning and all the sonic potential of this timepiece appears to be released, amplified, and enhanced. Its fully polished 43 mm titanium case also amplifies the sound and extends its resonance to 85 decibels, an unrivaled level of sound in the world of watchmaking.  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

"This new Hourstriker Phantom is the very essence of Devialet expertise expressed through a timepiece: a refined object with an optimized compactness/performance ratio and unbridled power. If Devialet products are looking to give the listener the impression that the artist is right in front of them, then this new Ulysse Nardin striking watch gives the sensation of a real musical instrument", concludes Patrick Pruniaux.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The watch's face is adorned with a satin-brushed anthracite dial inspired by Chladni's figures, formed by the materialization of vibratory waves, a nod to the Devialet Phantom's protective net placed over the tweeter. Hidden under this sculpted lace-like net, tinted glass obscures the watch's movement for an ultra-contemporary look. A small, but original feature, the "rose gold" colored hands point towards the Arabic numeral indexes, all tilted outwards, in single file and in a clockwise direction, just like a navy compass. At three o'clock, a small "rose gold" chip disappears and reappears depending on whether you want to activate or deactivate the striking mechanism (ON/OFF button). At CHF 72,500, the Hourstriker Phantom has become the most affordable striking watch on the market. The piece is enhanced by a black alligator strap and will be sold as a limited edition of 85 pieces, evoking the 85 decibels that it majestically reaches.

----------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  Classico 

Model: Classico HOURSTRIKER PHANTOM « Devialet » Edition

References  6103-132

Movement
Caliber UN-610 movement
Functions Automatic movement
Striking mechanism/Rings on the hour and half-hour
Optimized sound up to 85 dB to 100 mm
Power reserve 42 hours
Case
Polished titanium
Bezel  Polished titanium
Diameter  43 mm
Water resistance   30 m
Strap
Black alligator strap fastened with a folding clasp

Price    CHF 72,500

Limited Edition 85 pieces

---------------------------------
Press Release - 2019
----------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------
Ulysse Nardin SA
Marketing Department
Rue du Jardin 3
2400 Le Locle
Switzerland
T :+4132 930 74 00
F :+4132 930 74 21
 

---------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Ulysse Nardin
---------------------------------------------------------------------
www.Ulysse-Nardin.com