Monday, June 17, 2019

RADO – TRUE Thinline My Bird Edition


















RADOTRUE Thinline My Bird Ceramic Blue Limited Edition


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Light as a feather

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(Lengnau, Switzerland – March 2019) Symbolism, tradition, opulence and colour are the hallmarks of the work of renowned Russian artist and designer Evgenia Miro. Drawing on emblems and motifs that trace their origins back through centuries of storytelling, Evgenia creates beautiful designs that she applies to a range of materials to create enduring pieces designed to stand the test of time.

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From decorated silks to delicate china, Evgenia has now progressed to working on a micro scale with high-tech ceramic for the watch she has co-created with pioneering Swiss watchmaker Rado.

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Considered the most forward-thinking design player in the watch industry, Rado worked closely with Evgenia as she brought her unique vision and perspective to a watch collection that is known for its slim silhouette, confident construction and the way it revolutionised traditional watchmaking on its debut in 2011.

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Created in durable and scratch-resistant high-tech ceramic, the familiar monobloc case and bracelet of the True Thinline collection feature precision laser engravings of a delicate and distinctive feather pattern. Evgenia’s unique concept sees the bird’s feather creating a new philosophy of time with its lightness and dynamic rhythm of fine lines.

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She believes we are at our most active and productive between 1 o’clock and 7 o’clock and she chose to place the feather diagonally across the dial at these points to express this. The feather is also a symbol of the lightness of high-tech ceramic.

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Using the deep rich blue that she believes has a deep philosophical and symbolic meaning, Evgenia’s True Thinline is designed to communicate wisdom, nobility and spirituality. The strong, deep colour is complemented by contrasting rose gold coloured hands and the metallised Rado logo.

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An interesting contrast

To Evgenia, the symbol of the bird stands for tenderness, wisdom and refinement as well as for freedom and she chose to place it on the case back where it is worn next to the skin.

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The bird she has chosen is opulent and proud, its red and gold plumage symbolising warmth and light - a theme often seen in her work. The bird is digitally printed on the sapphire crystal case back – a first at Rado.

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Speaking about the collaboration with Evgenia Miro, Rado CEO Matthias Breschan said: “Working with Evgenia to create this watch was a unique experience. The ever-changing nature of time is one of the themes she often explores in her work. We felt this design idea was a very interesting contrast for a watch that is enduring and designed to stand the test of time.”

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The Rado True Thinline My Bird Limited Edition is one of the latest models in a series of designer collaborations for Rado, a multi award-winning designer in its own right. Featuring watches co-created with renowned designers from a range of design disciplines, Rado cements its claim as the go-to brand in watch design.

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About Evgenia Miro

Russian artist and designer Evgenia Miro graduated from the St. Petersburg Academy of Decorative and Fine Arts with honours in 1998. A year later, she joined the Union of Artists and Designers of Russia. With a focus on colour and symbolism, she continued to develop and exhibit her work around the world. In 2009, following a period of further study at the School of Arts in London, she moved to Paris where she now has an atelier. One of the key themes in her work is time, and she is known for her design collaborations which use materials including silk and fine bone china. Now Evgenia has created more than 500 collections. She was honoured by the cultural association, LA RENAISSANCE FRANCAISE for her contribution to French culture

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TECHNICAL DATA

Model: TRUE Thinline My Bird Edition


Ref. 420.0014.3.015

Movement
Calibre: ETA 282.002,
Quartz, 13 jewels, 2 hands
Case
Polished blue high-tech ceramic case
Dimensions 39.0 x 43.3 x 5.0 (WxLxH in mm)
Monobloc construction with a laser engraved feather pattern polished blue high-tech ceramic crown
metallised curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
titanium case back with digital printed lucky bird on sapphire crystal
special engraving on case back: LIMITED EDITION ONE OUT OF 1001 EVGENIA MIRO
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m)
Metallisation rose gold coloured Swiss Made and Rado logos
Dial 
Polished blue, matt blue printed feather pattern
Hands rose gold coloured
Bracelet
Three-row polished blue high-tech ceramic with a laser engraved feather pattern
titanium three-fold clasp

Limited Edition to 1001 watches

Suggested Retail Price     CHF 2'300 (VAT Incl.)

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Saturday, June 15, 2019

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER Grande Tradition Repetition Minutes Perpetuelle Edition


Jaeger-LeCoultre MASTER Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle White Gold 43 Limited Edition

Refines the art of mechanical mastery in 
the Master Grande Tradition 
Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle

With close to two centuries of horological expertise, Jaeger-LeCoultre stands alone in its command of complicated watchmaking. This includes unparalleled in-house experience in chiming watches, the most prestigious and exalted domain of mechanical savoir-faire. As a matter of fact, La Grande Maison du Sentier has the distinction of being the only manufacture in the world to have over 200 chiming watch calibres in its historical and modern inventory.

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In May 2019, following the success of the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel 🔻at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Jaeger-LeCoultre debuts a timepiece that once again brings new levels of excellence to its mastery of chiming watches.

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The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle features an innovative gong system that resurrects the idealised chime of antique pocket sonneries, paired with an evolutionary case design that transmits timelessness and modernity.

Key points of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition 
Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle

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  •     A new gong system that replicates the richness and strength of antique sonnerie pocket watches
  •     Evolutionary case design that redefines the timelessness and modernity of the Master Grande Tradition timepieces
  •     Heightened focus on customer experience with automatic winding system and intuitive perpetual-calendar setting
A new chime

Innovation in the domain of chiming watches has been one of the foundation stones of mechanical expertise at Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1895, when the company was awarded a patent for the world’s first silent strike regulator. In the 21st century, Jaeger-LeCoultre channelled its creativity in sonnerie watches towards producing the most energy-efficient and volume-optimised chime possible.

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The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle represents the next generation of chime-related innovation at La Grande Maison. Its movement, the automatic calibre 950, unites the two apex values of chime quality that were previously thought to be incompatible — power and beauty. This combination of qualities has largely eluded the best watchmakers in history, the understanding being that one can come only at the cost of the other.

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The research and innovation team of Jaeger-LeCoultre have achieved this idealised chime by creating an entirely novel gong configuration, unlike any other. Instead of lying flat in overlapping coils like the most commonly seen minute repeater gongs, the gongs of the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle depart radically from convention by incorporating unprecedented height and space. Two gongs, welded together at their base, travel in the same direction around the periphery of the movement, making one near-complete tour before dramatically arching upwards, traversing the entire height of the movement. They then diverge and take a terminal semi-arc around the other side of the movement, stopping just before their ends meet.

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By maximising the space occupied by the element that creates sound vibrations — the gongs — the calibre 950 boosts its capacity for sound transmission. Further increasing this capacity is the proximity of the gongs to a larger proportion of the watch case, according to the acoustic principles that instinctively guide us where to position a relatively weak audio source in relation to an resonator (such as when a personal music player is placed in a glass dish to amplify the sound).

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Signature chime innovations of Jaeger-LeCoultre, such as the square gong cross-sections and the articulated “trebuchet” hammers, ensure that the gongs are struck with the greatest possible impact and the least interference from hammer recoil. These set the stage for the meticulously engineered acoustic profile of the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle chime.

The lower-pitched gong takes a helical path from gong heel to tip. Though irregular in shape, its unidirectional flow allows it to vibrate in a way that creates the harmonic overtones giving fullness and balance to bass notes.

The higher-pitched gong switches direction, effectively folding back on itself like the tines of a tuning fork. This configuration emphasises the fundamental vibration of the gong, producing a purer tone that imparts the clarity and brilliance prized in treble notes.

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This new optimised combination of chime volume and acoustic quality marks out new territory for Jaeger-LeCoultre in sonnerie watches, an expansion that is fully supported by the other customer-centric aspects of the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle.

Focus on the wearer

Perpetual calendars are among the most practical and useful mechanical complications that can be incorporated into a timepiece. Their ability to display the correct calendar information, taking into consideration the varying lengths of the months — even during leap years — provides everyday convenience for the wearer, especially when combined with an automatic winding system for low-maintenance upkeep when worn regularly.

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Traditional-style perpetual calendars are mostly hand-wound, as the prestige of a high complication generally demands that the finely finished movement should be fully visible for admiration. Automatic minute repeaters are even rarer, with occasional exceptions such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater.

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The winding rotor of the calibre 950 is hidden within the movement, positioned between the perpetual calendar and minute repeater mechanisms, in order to a have full view on the mechanism at the back of the watch. The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle is thus continuously supplied with energy without the need to obscure a single finely finished component, whether chamfered, satin-finished, decorated with côtes de Genève, or any combination of the above.

Another feature of the watch that puts the needs of the wearer foremost is the intuitive Security zone that appears in a dial aperture near the axis of the hour and minute hands. This indication appears between the hours of 10pm and 1am, when adjusting the time or calendar is not advised due to the possibility of stressing or even damaging the movement. This reminder takes the onus off the wearer to remember when the time and calendar indications can be adjusted.

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Despite the multiple complications and the automatic winding system, all of which are known to add bulk to a timepiece, the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle is highly compact, with a diameter of 43mm and a height of 13.72mm.

Design evolution

The Master Grande Tradition collection has always been a platform for high watchmaking at Jaeger-LeCoultre, emphasising classic design in order to let the sophisticated mechanisms take centre stage. In the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, Jaeger-LeCoultre recalibrates the balance of technical prowess against aesthetic refinement to arrive at a new equilibrium of power and beauty.

A new case, comprising more than 80 separate hand-finished parts, was created for the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle. Particular attention was paid to the ergonomics of the case, from the deeply convex bezel and broad bevels on the lugs to the smoothly tapered minute repeater slide.

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Parts are alternately polished, satin-finished or sandblasted, the latter being highly challenging to execute on the exterior segments of a watch. The extremely porous surface of a sandblasted component causes it to easily pick up oils from even the slightest contact with human skin, leaving a mark that can be seen as unsightly (though easily removed) blemish. In its finishing and Métiers Rares ateliers, Jaeger-LeCoultre has perfected the technique of applying a sandblasted finish that is resistant to such oil transfer.

The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle comes in two dial variations, a neoclassical silver-grained dial and a deep blue translucent guilloche enamel dial that is produced by hand in the Atelier des Métiers Rares.

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A dial of solid white gold is first decorated with guillochage on century-old rose engines, each round of guilloché work repeated several times in order to achieve the correct depth of engraving. The perpetual calendar counters are then precision laser-welded onto the dial, before the remaining spaces are filled with translucent enamel in another multi-stage process. The enamel is then polished, resulting in the final dial of shimmering vitreous blue that changes in hue with the light and angle.

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle is the result of 149 years of experience in sonnerie timepieces, combined with an unparalleled patrimony in mechanical innovation and the most exalted levels of miniature decorative arts. With this latest masterpiece, La Grande Maison du Sentier recommits itself to furthering the frontiers of 21st-century watchmaking.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: MASTER® Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle Gold

Reference: Q52334E1 (Limited to 30 pieces)
🔵- Blue
Reference: Q5233420 (Limited to 30 pieces) ⚪️- Silver


Movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre: 950 - Manual-winding
Components : 585
Vibrations per hour : 28800
Jewels : 79, Barrel : 2
Height : 8.48 mm
Power reserve: 38 h
Case
White Gold
Dimensions: 43 mm
Thickness: 13.72 mm
Water resistance: 5 bar
Case Back: Open
Functions
Hours/Minutes, Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar
(Day, Date, Month, Moon phase, Year)
Dial
  • Blue guilloché enamel 
  • Silver grained
Recto Hands Baguette
Strap
Blue Leather
Gold folding-clasp

Limitation: 30 pieces


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Press releases - 2019
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