Monday, May 27, 2019

Glashutte Original – SENATOR Chronometer Tourbillon Platinum Edition














Glashutte Original SENATOR Chronometer Tourbillon Platinum 42mm - Limited Edition


Premiere of a world first

In the small Saxon town of Glashütte, elegance and mechanics have long been combined in elaborately finished timepieces. In 1920, the master watchmaker Alfred Helwig gave the tourbillon, one of the most challenging complications of haute horlogerie, the appearance of weightlessness by anchoring the mechanism on one side only.

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Today Glashütte Original presents Alfred Helwig’s invention in an advanced and highly sophisticated version. The Saxon manufactory has succeeded for the first time in combining a flying tourbillon with a second-stop mechanism, zero reset and minute detent, allowing the time to be set with great precision. This world first edition in platinum is limited to 25 pieces and officially certified as a chronometer.


The Tourbillon: traditionally in motion

As fascinating as it is to observe the turning of a tourbillon cage, it was originally intended to enhance the precision of a watch. Whether cantilevered (“flying”) or anchored with a bridge in the classical manner: this “whirlwind” turns, together with the entire oscillation and escapement system, on its own axis. In the past, this made it possible to counter the impact of gravity on the rate performance of pocket watches. With modern wristwatches, the tourbillon serves above all to demonstrate the maker’s exceptional horological expertise, which connoisseurs around the world are certain to appreciate.

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Glashütte Original shows that a tourbillon can still serve its original purpose. Second-stop mechanism, zero reset and minute detent ensure that the minute and second hands are synchronised, allowing the time to be set with great precision: the tourbillon’s rotating cage stops the moment the crown is pulled, and since the second hand is mounted on the cage, it also stops immediately.

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The watchmakers of the manufactory welcomed the challenge to find a way to stop the flying tourbillon “in full flight” and to combine it with the ability to set the time precisely. Their solution is as well engineered as it is innovative. Glashütte Original has applied for two patents on the complex construction.

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To set the time the crown is pulled out. This triggers a vertical clutch that locks the tourbillon cage, and with that the balance, in its current position. If the crown is then pulled out further and held in position, the second hand advances clockwise to zero, and the minute hand advances to the next full index. In the process, a rotational damper ensures a smooth movement.

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Now the crown can be released and – while the small second remains at zero – the time can be set precisely to the minute while the crown is still pulled out. At the desired point in time the crown is pressed back again, which releases the seconds hand, thus ensuring that minutes and seconds are synchronised perfectly. This version has also been fitted, for the first time, with shock protection on both sides of the flying tourbillon.


The manual winding Calibre 58-05
Chronometric precision in elegant attire

The high rate precision of the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon – Limited Edition has been confirmed by an independent testing institute. Each watch is certified as a chronometer, in conformance with the DIN 8319 standard, by the German Calibration Service in Glashütte.

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The watch undergoes 15 days of testing in five different positions and at three different temperatures. In addition, a silicon balance spring offers greater protection against magnetic fields and changes in temperature. The manual winding calibre 58-05, which beats at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, has a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound, indicated by the display at 9 o’clock.


The design: multi-layered and transparent

The 42 mm platinum case presents a movement with highly refined decorative finishes. Beneath the off-centre, galvanic blue dial, fascinating views emerge from the combination of different levels and finishes. The dial and Flying Tourbillon rise like little towers over the upper and lower halves of the movement, resulting in a remarkable three-dimensional effect. The open design and a partially transparent sapphire crystal ring bearing the seconds scale draw the viewer’s gaze into the depths of the watch. Various hand engravings and the classic Glashütte stripe finish round off the decoration.

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In addition, a particularly sophisticated detail is positioned discreetly on the upper edge of the dial. The mirrored upper ring displays, at 12 o’clock, the inscription “Chronometer Tourbillon”, engraved back-to-front on the dial fastener.

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Also the back of the watch features fascinating, elaborate traditional finishes. A dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a fold fastener in platinum completes this model.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection : SENATOR
 
Model:  Chronometer Tourbillon Platinum Edition

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Reference number: 1-58-05-01-03-30

Movement
Manual winding Calibre 58-05
, highly refined movement
Functions: Flying Tourbillon with small second, off-centre hour and minute hands,
rotating tourbillon cage with second-stop mechanism,
zero reset and innovative minute detent, power reserve display
Special features: German chronometer certification
Running time: 70 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph, equivalent to 3 Hz
Case
Polished/satin-brushed platinum,
front and back glass in sapphire crystal, water resistant to 5 bar
Dimensions: Ø 42.0 mm, height: 12.0 mm
Dial
Galvanic blue, with appliques
Strap
Dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap,
fold fastener in platinum

Limited edition: 25 pieces

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Press Release - 2019
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For further information please contact:
Glashütte Original I Press Office
Altenberger Straße 1 I D-01768 Glashütte i. Sa.
Telephone: +49 (0) 350 53 46 - 0
E-Mail: pr@glashuette-original.com
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Friday, May 24, 2019

CORUM – ADMIRAL AC-ONE 45 Openworked


CORUMADMIRAL AC-ONE 45 Openworked Tourbillon Titanium - 2019
 
Uncovering the Beauty of Mechanics

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Corum pushes creative boundaries once again with the 
AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic and Automatic Tourbillon.

In 2013, the Admiral collection welcomed a new line to the family- the Admiral AC-One. Keeping in mind the key design codes of the Admiral collection, the lines of the iconic dodecagonal-shaped case was reworked to become more rounded, and angles less prominent. 
 
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Taking into consideration the size and weight of the 45mm diameter-case of the AC-One 45, titanium became the material of choice for this contemporary reinterpretation. Designed as a robust timepiece to complement luxury offshore boating, the Admiral AC-One 45 is even sportier, bolder and pushes the boundaries of creativity a step further.


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This year, Corum presents the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic, which introduces an exquisitely crafted skeletonized dial. The movement fitted within the AC-One Openwork Automatic is the caliber CO 297, a new movement that was developed by Corum in-house specifically for this model. 
 
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The bridges visible on the dial side were specially designed to be in harmony with the dodecagonal-shaped case, as well as the silhouettes of the nautical pennants. A sub-dial displaying small seconds is at the 9 o’clock position, while the power reserve indicator sits at 3 o’clock.

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Like the AC-One 45 Squelette that was released in 2014, the ingenious architecture of the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic juxtaposes this otherwise hefty timepiece with a touch of lightness and refinement. Unlike the Squelette which features a completely skeletonized double-date disks, Corum makes use of bolder and cleaner-cut lines to give a more robust and athletic feel to the Openwork Automatic.

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The AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic is presented in two variants. The first, with a case crafted in grade 5 Titanium to add lightness of the overall design, and at the same time evoke a futuristic vibe. The second variation pairs contrasting rose gold with black PVD-coated titanium as the case material, giving the watch a bolder and sportier feel. 
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The back of the movement is visible through the screwed-in open back bronze cover with anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Both timepieces offer water resistance up to 100 meters, while the movement has a power reserve of 42 hours.

Taking mechanical beauty a step further: 
AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic Tourbillon

For aficionados who prefer something more complicated and gravity-defying, Corum has prepared the AC-ONE Openwork Tourbillon. At the six o’clock position lies a tourbillon, in addition to the above details present in the AC-One Openwork Automatic.  
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This showcases the not only the beautiful heartbeat of the movement, but also Corum’s artistry and flare in technical watchmaking. The addition of a tourbillon also ensures higher accuracy in timekeeping under conditions at sea.

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Both the AC-One Openwork Automatic and Openwork Tourbillon also feature redesigned straps. Crafted with rubber on the surface and synthetic textile on its underside, these bi-material straps are designed to seamlessly integrate with the lugs.
 
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This minimizes any possible gaps between the lugs, strap and wrist, which not only makes wearing the watch more comfortable, but also protects the lugs and straps from being damaged by external aggressions.

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Ref. A298/04277 - 298.100.46/F249 AD10


Movement
    Caliber: CO 298

    Power reserve: 72 h
    Frequency: 4 Hz, 28'800 vph
    Dimension: 12 1/2''
    Jewels: 37
    Winding: Automatic

    Function:  Hour, minute, flying tourbillon, power reserve, 3 minutes counter
Case
    Diameter: 45 mm
    Thickness: 14.30 mm
    Material: Carbon with gold inclusions
    Water resistant: 100 meters / 10 ATM
Dial
    Material: Brass
    Color: Black
    Hands: Dauphine-variant, Skeleton, 5N Golden, Black superluminova
    Indexes: 5N gold-toned brass flange
Bracelet
    Material: Bi-material
    Color: Black
    Interhorn: 23/20 mm
Buckle
    Style: Triple folding clasp
    Material: Titanium grade 5 with black PVD treatment
 
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Press Release - 2019
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Montres CORUM Sàrl
Rue du Petit -Château 1
Case postale 374 - CH-2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
Tél. +41(0) 32  967 06 70 
Fax +41(0) 32  967 06 00  press@corum.ch
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