Friday, April 26, 2019

CHOPARD – Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato 100th Anniversary Edition


CHOPARDMille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato 100th Anniversary Edition

Chopard and Zagato first crossed paths during Mille Miglia rallies and there was bound to be a perfect understanding between the watchmaker and the Italian car design signature. A love of fine mechanics, a passion for design, respect for tradition, and an attraction to racing and performance are all common denominators now resulting in Chopard's tribute to the 100th anniversary of its racing partner and friend.

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A mechanical tribute, naturally, with the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato 100th Anniversary Edition watch, crafted by Chopard in a 100-piece limited edition.

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Combining a dial enhanced with Zagato’s emblematic Z pattern and red-lacquered colour, a beautifully curved 42mm steel case and a leather bund strap evoking the car designer's upholstery, this new timepiece bears a striking resemblance to its racing-car inspiration. An aesthetically and technically sophisticated watch beating to the rhythm of a mechanical movement with automatic winding certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

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The Mille Miglia, la corsa più bella del mondo! An encounter occurring at a rally billed as the world’s most beautiful race is bound to be exceptional and that is exactly what happened between the two protagonists in this ongoing story.

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On the one hand, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, representing the fourth generation of a dynasty of watchmakers and jewellers, co-president of Chopard founded in 1860, partner for 31 years of the famous Mille Miglia race from Brescia to Rome and back, a keen fan of classic cars and a driver when the chance arises.

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On the other, Andrea Zagato, grandson of the founder of the family company dating back to 1919, currently the last independent Italian car designer, and initiator of the Total Design Studio concept for brands such as Porsche, Aston Martin, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Alfa Romeo and Bentley.

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The healthy rivalry between the two men hurtling along Italian country roads at the wheel of their respective cars quickly turned into a sincere friendship, obviously sustained by a common passion for mechanical excellence and aesthetic genius in showcasing it. Chopard thus became the official sponsor of the Scuderia Sports Zagato, while Zagato inspired Chopard to produce limited editions of its Mille Miglia watch collections.

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The spirit of the race – which sees gentlemen drivers vying with each other during the day, yet all too happy to share their experiences once they cross the finish line – had worked its magic and, especially since the resulting rapprochement between the two Maisons, it appears almost self-evident.

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While the similarities between watches and cars are readily highlighted, they only take on their full meaning when both are capable of arousing emotions. This implies attention to detail, mechanical cleverness, elegant aesthetics and naturally ensuing harmony. A universe familiar to both Chopard and Zagato, united in this quest for perfect design.

A technically sophisticated timepiece

Needless to say, Chopard could not let this year 2019 pass without taking up the challenge of honouring Zagato's 100th anniversary with a timepiece destined to be memorable in every way.
The main options quickly emerged.

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This 100th Anniversary Edition would obviously be a Mille Miglia watch, belonging to the Classic Chronograph collection initiated in 2017 and bearing the codes of a racing model, in the spirit of this classic car rally cherished by both Maisons.

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This 42 mm steel-clad piece exudes a deliberately vintage spirit, with curves inspired by irresistible oldtimers. The mechanics are impeccable, with reliability and precision guaranteed by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

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Based on this chronograph calibre built for performance, Chopard and Zagato designed a sleek watch ideally suited to endurance road racing enthusiasts. Particular attention was paid to the details composing the style of the piece, starting with a dial with a motif resembling the Z for Zagato in a magnificent lacquered red, a favourite hue of both the Milan-based designer and the Mille Miglia.

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As a reminder of the authorship of this watch, logos of the two Maisons appear at 12 o’clock, surrounded by baton-type hour-markers painted with Super-LumiNova® -– as are the hands – so as to ensure perfect readability in all circumstances.

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The sporty nature of the chronograph is further enhanced by the black aluminium inner bezel bearing a graduated tachymeter scale. The result is a must-have accessory serving to calculate the average speed during the race and one that Zagato has put to good use in the past, winning the historic Mille Miglia race a record eight times in 24 participations!

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As a reference to the straps used to lash down oldtimer car trunks, a bund strap with tone-on-tone stitching – like the Zagato upholstery – has been chosen for this watch worthily representing the heyday of the early automobile industry. At the time, some drivers preferred this type of strap enabling them to wear their timepiece securely wrapped around the sleeve of their rally jacket.

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In the evening, the bund strap gives way to an elegant black calfskin version that enhances this watch sported by the perfect gentleman driver, still under the spell of the gently undulating landscapes evoking the famous Italian dolce vita. All it takes to prolong the magic is a simple glance at his Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: Mille Miglia Classic

Model: Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato 100th Anniversary Edition

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Ref. 168589-3020 – in steel on calfskin
100-piece steel limited edition 

Case:
Steel
Total diameter  42.00
Thickness    12.67 mm
Water resistance 50 metres
Steel screw-lock crown with steering wheel motif 7.50 mm
Polished steel bezel
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Steel pushers
Exhibition back with screws bearing Mille Miglia logo around its rim and special transfer-printed inscription reading “Chopard & Mille Miglia -Zagato 100th
Movement:
Mechanical self-winding chronograph movement
Caliber: ETA 2894-2
Total diameter    28.60 mm
Thickness 6.10 mm
Number of jewels  37
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve    approx. 42 hours
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial and hands:
Red with Zagato "Z" motif
Engine-turned red-lacquered colour dial enhanced with Zagato’s emblematic Z pattern
White transfer-printed railtrack markings and tachymeter scale
Red Mille Miglia logo
Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds
Hours counter at 6 o’clock, minutes counter at 9 o’clock, seconds counter at 3 o’clock
Date window between 4 and 5 o’clock
Strap and buckle:
Black calfskin barenia leather strap (matt)
Polished steel pin buckle

100-piece limited edition

Availability: Boutique exclusive

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Thursday, April 25, 2019

LOUIS MOINET – ULTRAVOX Edition


LOUIS MOINETULTRAVOX Hour-Strike Gold 46.5 mm Limited Edition

Ultravox
Louis Moinet’s first ever Hour-Strike

The hour-strike complication is an extremely rare member of the strike mechanism family, and the layout used here is quite possibly unique. The mechanism has been revealed, enabling its complexity to be admired. The magic of watchmaking mechanics is embodied by the moving yokes and the engraved hammer that marks out the hours. Two hundred years ago, Louis Moinet’s clocks and pocket watches chimed the hours for leading figures of his day. Now, his name has been joined with that of Eric Coudray, a great present-day watchmaker, to create a new masterpiece in the same spirit.

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The hour-strike is a rare Fine Watchmaking complication, and rarer still when it is the product of a fully independent firm, based on an exclusive movement, and created ex nihilo – thus representing a markedly fresh approach.

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The advent of the Ultravox coincides with the 250th anniversary of Louis Moinet’s birth in Bourges in 1768.

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Throughout his entire life, the inventor of the Compteur de Tierces chronograph, which dates from 1816, made a large number of striking clocks, many of which adorned the drawing rooms of the world’s greatest leaders, from Napoleon Bonaparte to Tsar Alexander I and presidents of the United States (among them Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe), as well as many others besides.

Asserting a style

ULTRAVOX is an exclusive creation, designed to celebrate the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of Louis Moinet’s birth. The inventor of the chronograph also designed striking clocks which adorned the drawing rooms of the world’s greatest leaders: Napoleon Bonaparte, Tsar Alexander I, US presidents Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe, and many others besides. These works of art are now to be found in prestigious private collections – as well as in the White House, the Louvre, and the Hermitage Museum. Ateliers Louis Moinet also have a large historical collection at their head office in Saint-Blaise.
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This tangible heritage has enabled us to design an Hour Strike drawing inspiration from Louis Moinet whilst also being undisputedly rooted in the twenty-first century. Louis Moinet was both an artist and a scientist. With this in mind, we decided to lay bare all of the mechanics of this complication – a world first,”   adds Jean-Marie Schaller.

A watch bearing the “Eric Coudray & Co” name

Watchmaker Eric Coudray, winner of the Gaïa Prize – and, in Jean-Marie Schaller’s words, “a magician!” – is one of the greatest watch designers alive. The Ultravox bears the name of this Master and his outstanding team, without whom nothing could be achieved.

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The Latin name “Ultravox”, the ‘ultimate voice’,  is a nod both to the strike mechanism and to the neoclassical influences on Louis Moinet, whose clocks portrayed figures such as Minerva, Julius Caesar, and Cicero.

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The strike mechanism denotes each passing hour on the hour, marking out the appropriate number of chimes. A silencer mechanism also allows the wearer to disengage the chime if they so wish.

A complication revealed as never before

To enhance the sheer excellence of this creation, for the first time Louis Moinet has unveiled its entire spectacular mechanism on the wrist. The pulsating balance wheel, channelling the force of the barrel to regulate the pace of the chime, is revealed.

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The central flirt triggers a system to arm the hammer: located at eleven o’clock, this strikes out the hours on a gong arranged around the movement.
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The movement’s highly complex plate has over 50 jewels in order to engage the chime mechanism’s various components. Its “Moinet blue” colour illuminates the entire watch, setting off the block-polished and chamfered screws above it. The rear reveals an innovative system of parallel double rotors, also enhanced with Moinet blue. The first of these serves to generate power for the hours and minutes mechanism, while the second is dedicated solely to the chime.

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With a diameter of 46.5 millimetres, ULTRAVOX is available in a limited edition of just 28 rose gold pieces.

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Collection: Limited Edition

Model: ULTRAVOX  

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Unique Limited to only 28 pieces

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