Friday, January 18, 2019

SPEAKE-MARIN – One&Two OPENWORKED Dual Time


SPEAKE-MARINOne&Two OPENWORKED Dual Time Red Gold Edition

SIHH 2019 – After the success of the “One&Two” Openworked launched two years ago, which marked a new aesthetic trend for the brand, Speake-Marin now completes its Openworked collection with a new complication: Dual Time indication, retrograde date.


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Since 2015, Speake-Marin has initiated a movement strategy to fully develop and assemble proprietary movements within its atelier in the Neuchatel area, Switzerland. This new strategy gave birth to the “SMA” collection, which includes Openworked, closed dials and Haute Horlogerie movements. Firstly, Speake-Marin focused its efforts on Haute Horlogerie 3 Hz movements (Minute Repeater and Double Tourbillon).

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Then, Speake-Marin developed Hour Minutes Seconds 4Hz movements, which were featured in the new One&Two design as an Openworked movement named SMA01. This movement is particular due to the small seconds counter being positioned at 1:30 and its integrated micro-rotor. The new SMA02 Calibre is part of the SMA movement family and follows the Openworked collection approach with the small seconds at 1:30. The small seconds at 1:30 meets the Speake-Marin objective to break-away from the watchmaking codes: Speake-Marin is the only watchmaker who positions the small seconds there. It is actually a real constraint in terms of movement development since the small seconds at 1:30 have to go through the time setting module.

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The new movement featured in One&Two Openworked Dual Time is therefore the SMA02 Calibre: an Openworked movement, which integrates a Dual Time indication and a retrograde date. It keeps the visual balance between the barrel, the oscillating mass and the small seconds at 1:30. It creates a triangulation which plays with the “3” figure, as it is the case on the other Openworked models.

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 For this new design, Speake-Marin wanted to propose a complication for travellers, who want to know at first glance their “home” time versus the “local” time. This new model is therefore the first Speake-Marin travel watch, which targets those who are looking for the perfect watch to travel, and which will complete their travel attire, such as passport, noise-cancelling headphones, computer or notebook…

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The Dual Time complication has been the “de facto” travel watch ever since it was conceived in the mid-’50s for Pan America pilots crossing several time zones at once. By allowing the wearer to monitor two separate time zones at once (“local” time and “home” time), the Dual Time watch frees its wearer from the “gruelling” mental maths required when keeping tabs on whatever is going on in your home time zone. Here, the “local” time is given by the central Hours Minutes Seconds indication, while the “home” time can be easily seen on the second dial at 9 o’clock.

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This movement is nestled in a new version of the Piccadilly, an evolution of the iconic case of Speake-Marin. The new case is more technical than the original allowing the straps to be integrated closer in the case, moving the crown further into the case so as to soften its aesthetics whilst maintaining its original DNA. The bezel and the case back slightly overlap the central case section altering the overall “look” of the watch whilst maintaining the iconoclastic feel of Speake-Marin. In addition, the glass traditionally set into the bezel has now been altered to a box form, reducing the overall thickness of the case and accentuating the technical aspect of the watch.

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This new aesthetic is very modern and masculine thanks to its colour mix (brown, silver and black) and its sharp angles of the bridges. Both hyper contemporary with the dial and classic with the case, it will please gentlemen travellers who want to affirm their style and individuality with an audacious watch choice that will differentiate them from others.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: One & Two

REFERENCE 38mm: 423809250
REFERENCE 42mm: 424209250

Model: One&Two OPENWORKED Dual Time

MOVEMENT
Calibre SMA02
, self-winding movement with micro-rotor
Retrograde date and Dual Time indication
INDICATIONS
Hour Minutes and Seconds.
  • Small seconds and retrograde date at 1:30
  • Dual Time indication at 9 o’clock
DIAL
Openworked dial. Black mat finish.
Dual Time indication in black and brown.
Heart-shaped golden hands.
POWER RESERVE  52 hours
CASE
New generation Piccadilly case in red gold 
Front sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating.
DIAMETER 38 or 42 mm
WATER RESISTANCE    3 bar (30 metres)
STRAP & BUCKLE
Brown alligator or grey crocodile leather
Pin buckle in red gold

LIMITED EDITION    20 watches of each diameter

PRICE ON DEMAND   


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Press Release - 2019
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Should you need additional information,
feel free to contact our Communications Department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at: +41 21 695 26 56
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Thursday, January 17, 2019

GREUBEL FORSEY – ART PIECE Edition Historique



















GREUBEL FORSEYART PIECE Edition Historique Double Tourbillon 30° Platinum 44mm Unique Edition


An artistic and architectural chef-d’œuvre

Looking into the wide open heart at its three-dimensional construction and highly original geometry, the new Art Piece Edition Historique crowns the avant-garde aesthetic approach behind numerous exceptional creations. Combining technicity, exclusivity and the finest craftsmanship, this 33-piece limited edition (of which the first 11 are in platinum) presents a new vision of time in the spirit of the revived and renewed notion of Fine Watchmaking by Greubel Forsey.

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Art of Invention. Greubel Forsey’s determined mission since its foundation in 2004. The focus on art and invention is both technical – with innovative mechanisms found in creations such as the Double Tourbillon 30°, the Quadruple Tourbillon, the GMT and the Grande Sonnerie – and architectural in terms of the highly original aesthetic approach that Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey pursue in their creative process.

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This major artistic and architectural adventure took off in 2006, when the two Inventor Watchmakers created the Opus 6 for Harry Winston. At a time when open dials were virtually unheard of, Greubel Forsey were pioneers of this revolution by showcasing their Double Tourbillon 30° (teamed with disc displays for the hours, minutes and power reserve) within a masterful multi-level three-dimensional movement.


Thought in Action: the Invention Pieces

This highly acclaimed model, although only a six-piece limited edition, was certainly not an isolated achievement. It marked the start of a ground-breaking journey, a true creative exercise whose development we can follow over the years, like observing the evolution of a painter, sculptor or architect. Rather than reworking an existing calibre in order to create a visual impact (as is generally the case with a skeletonised movement), Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey opted right from the outset to approach the entire conception of the movement in architectural terms.

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The period between 2007 and 2011 thus saw the emergence of the first three Invention Pieces, each paying tribute to one of Greubel Forsey’s Fundamental Inventions in the realm of tourbillons. Multi-level constructions, offset subdials, hand or disc displays, concentric hours/minutes indications, interplays of transparency and depth, contrasting materials and colours, lateral case windows, asymmetrical domed sapphire crystals: these three masterpieces defined the essence of a new aesthetic vocabulary, amplified by an extreme concern for fine craftsmanship as much for the movement as the exterior elements.

A new means of expression: Art Pieces

The birth of the astonishing Art Pieces heralded the next stage in the approach to a timepiece as a means of artistic expression. Art Piece 1 (2013), co-created with British artist Willard Wigan, was distinguished by a micro-sculpture housed inside the case, complete with a miniature high-power optical system ensuring surprising views of the artwork, otherwise barely visible to the naked eye. Art Piece 2 – Edition 1 (2016) paid a stunning tribute to watchmaking art supplanting the micro-sculpture with a micro-engraved sketch of the Double Tourbillon 30° which animates this timepiece.

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 It was followed by the Art Piece 2 – Edition 2 (2017) which further pushed creative limits by combining the Double Tourbillon 30° with an on-demand display of the hours and minutes along with an oversized power reserve indication. The latter is in fact the only sign of time passing by when the hours and minutes aperture is closed.


Crowning achievement

Greubel Forsey now pays tribute to this artistic and architectural approach with a creation that sums up and magnifies its true spirit. Following on from previous Art Pieces, the Art Piece Edition Historique houses within its 44 mm-diameter case a new movement with a variation on the theme of the Double Tourbillon 30°: a mechanism designed to enable the balance wheel to oscillate consistently in all planes ensuring maximum precision. The new 475-part hand-wound movement boasts a 72-hour power reserve with optimal chronometric performance, ensured by two series-coupled fast-rotating barrels.

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The most eye-catching aspect of all is the multi-level construction that opens up whole new vistas. The gaze is first drawn to the Double Tourbillon 30° majestically set against a royal blue background, withtheflatblackpolishedbridgeandhand-bevelled and open-worked cage pillars. It is a veritable sculpture in motion, with its inner tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle performing one rotation per minute and its outer tourbillon completing a revolution in four minutes. The small seconds dial is positioned on the same level, between 10 and 11 o’clock. Lifted onto a significantly higher plane, the power-reserve indication bears large Arabic numerals and a blued steel hand.

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Higher still, at 2 o’clock, the offset hours/minutes subdial has been replaced with a daring titanium dome featuring a hand-punched background entirely engraved with the finely polished Greubel Forsey key values. The hours are discreetly displayed by a red hand on a separate rotating ring, while the minutes appear on request through an aperture thanks to a simple press on the crown-fitted pusher. By giving pride of place to the tourbillon and power reserve in relation to the hours/minutes indication, the Art Piece Edition Historique asserts itself as a ‘philosophical timepiece’. It draws the collector to experience a new relationship with temporality, based on a deeper consideration of the time passing and the time that remains.

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A true ‘carpe diem’ invitation to make the most of the moment in hand. The caseback also offers a most original design, a rear view of the Double Tourbillon 30° surrounded by the barrel bridge where one can admire the jewels in gold chatons and the hand-polished countersinks, completed by the relief-engraved signatures of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey.

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Within the strictly limited 33-piece edition, the first 11 Art Piece Edition Historique timepieces are to be made in platinum and the 22 subsequent ones in different materials. Enhancing the sense of continuity with the other Art Pieces, Greubel Forsey has chosen to encompass the 18 previous examples within the total to date. The 11 platinum Art Piece Edition Historique models will thus be numbered from 19/51 to 29/51 – figures appearing both on the caseback and on the small plate alongside the Double Tourbillon 30°.

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The Art Piece Edition Historique celebrates a new artistic and architectural vision of time, signed Greubel Forsey.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: ART PIECE

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Art Piece Edition Historique - Unique edition of 33 pieces
11 pieces in platinum
Hand-wound movement with patented tourbillon


Timepiece testifying to the artistic expression of Greubel Forsey •
Double Tourbillon 30° • hours • minutes on demand • small seconds • power-reserve



Movement
Movement dimensions

• Diameter : 36.40 mm
• Thickness : 12.37 mm
Number of parts
• Complete movement : 475 parts
• Two tourbillon cages : 130 parts
• Total weight of the two cages : 1.12 g
Number of jewels • 50
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons
Chronometric power reserve • 72 hours
Barrels • Two series-coupled fast-rotating barrels
(1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension
Balance wheel • Variable-inertia with white gold mean-time screws (10.70 mm diameter)
Frequency 21’600 vibrations/hour
Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud
Main plate • Titanium, frosted and spotted, with polished bevelling, blue finish
Bridges 
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted with polished  bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, nickel-palladium treatment
• Titanium plates with polished relief-engraved text, polished bevelling and countersinks
• Founders’ signature in relief by galvanic growth
• Flat black polished steel tourbillon bridges,
hand-polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks
Inner tourbillon
• Inclined at a 30° angle, 1 rotation per minute
Outer tourbillon
• 1 rotation in 4 minutes
• Hand-bevelled and openworked cage pillars
• Gold counterweight
Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Conical gearing with profiled teeth
Displays
• Hours
• Minutes on demand on disc
• Small seconds
• 72 hours sectorial power reserve
Exterior
Case
• In platinum 950 with high domed synthetic sapphire crystal
• Transparent back with synthetic sapphire crystal
• Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped lugs
• Raised polished engraving “Edition Historique” and “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
• Gold security screws
• Polished bezel, caseband with hand-finished straight graining
Platinum 950 plates, engraved, hand-finished with texts, screwed to the caseband
• Hand-engraved individual number
Case dimensions
Diameter : 44.00 mm
• Height : 15.95 mm
Water resistance of the case
• Water-resistant 3 atm - 30 m - 100 ft
(standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)
Crown with pusher
• In platinum 950 with engraved and black lacquered GF logo
• Crown pusher for the minutes display
Dial
• Multi-level in titanium, dome-shaped
• Hour-ring with lacquered indexes, relief-engraved texts
• Metallised synthetic sapphire shutter, hiding or revealing the minutes display
• Small seconds indicator in gold, engraved and lacquered, hand matt lapped
• Power-reserve indicator in titanium with relief-engraved scale
Hands
• Hours (red triangle)
• Small seconds in polished blued steel, hand-polished countersink
• Power-reserve in polished blued steel
Strap and clasp
• Hand-sewn alligator
Platinum 950 folding clasp, hand-engraved with the GF logo


Limited edition of 11 pieces.

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Press Release - 2019
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GREUBEL FORSEY SA
For further information: 
Communication Department 
press@greubelforsey.com – +41 79 194 2884
Eplatures-Grise -16 P.O. Box 670 
2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds - Switzerland
+41 32 925-4545
+41 32 925-4502
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