Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC Capitole - Unique piece

Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC Capitole Rose Gold 45mm Brown Minute Repeater Special Edition - Unique piece

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TORIC CAPITOLE ROSE GOLD BROWN
A modern marvel inspired by a 19th century mechanical masterpiece.

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The Edouard and Maurice Sandoz Foundation collection is a resource showcasing the genius of watchmaking's "old masters". Parmigiani Fleurier wanted to pay tribute to this unique collection of horological works of art by recreating some of these mechanical wonders in its own manufacture. 

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The unique Toric Capitole Rose Gold Brown, with its sector display and minute repeater, is one of these exceptional timepieces. The watch takes its name from the Capitolium in Rome - the religious and political heart of Ancient Rome - the geometrically spiralling floor tiles of which are reproduced in the pattern of the dial.

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THE HAND-ENGRAVED DIAL

"The decoration is so captivating because it is based on the Golden Ratio. Within it, you see Fibonacci's spirals, reproducing a harmony that is everywhere in nature." This is how Michel Parmigiani describes the rose gold dial of the new Toric Capitole. It is hand engraved by a master artisan engraver who has left his lasting mark on the piece.

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The concentric pattern of the decoration evokes the arrangement of the scales on a pine cone – one of the innumerable examples of the Golden Ratio seen in the natural world.

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The captivating dance of the planetary gears continues above the engraved decoration. Parmigiani Fleurier wanted to showcase the sector time display complication, instead of concealing it behind a bezel that would only reveal one numeral at a time.

SECTOR TIME INDICATOR

Inspired by the pocket watch made by Perrin Frères (Neuchâtel) dating from the early 19th Century, and now owned by the Foundation, the Toric Capitole reprises the unusual sector time display, translating it to a movement made by the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture.

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The PF321 calibre features a module dedicated to the sector time display. This module, directly meshed with the hour wheel, incorporates a rotary system comprising three planetary gears with four arms, each end of which bears a numeral to indicate the hour (1 to 12).

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The time is displayed in a semi-circle on the upper half of the bezel, on a dial comprising 60 minute indexes. The set of discs is driven via a highly complex cam system.

THE MINUTE REPEATER

The timepiece's open case-back reveals the PF321 hand-wound mechanical movement and its minute repeater. Its gongs are known as "cathedral" gongs, a watchmaking term which means they form two sets around the case.

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This amplifies the acoustic quality compared with a single set, but makes the watchmaker's work on the housing considerably more complex. The rose gold case has been forged to ensure the minute repeater chime acoustics are perfect, with the sound wave oscillating at the optimum frequencies inside the case.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: TORIC 

Model: Capitole Gold

Reference: PFH476-1001300-HA1241
MOVEMENT     
Calibre PF321
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 40 hours
Frequency: 2.5 Hz – 18,000 Vib/h
Dimensions: 15 ''' – Ø 34 mm
Thickness: 8.5 mm
Components: 386
Jewels: 33
Decoration: "Côtes de Genève" decoration, bevelled bridges
FUNCTIONS

• Hours, Minutes
• Passing hours
• Sector time display

CASE
Shape: Round
Dimensions: Ø 45 mm
Thickness: 12.1 mm
Material: 18 ct rose gold
Finish: Polished
Crown: Ø 7 mm
Case-back: Sapphire
Engraving on case-back: "MODELE UNIQUE" and "REPETITION MINUTES"
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
DIAL   
Material: Rose gold
Decoration: Concentric pattern created by a master artisan engraver
Finish: 'Railway' minute track applied by hand
Hands: Brown planetary discs with white inscription
STRAP
Material: Alligator
Colour: Tan
Brand: Hermès
BUCKLE
Type: Ardillon
Material: Rose gold
   
Edition  - Unique piece

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Press release - 2018
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Contact

Tel-  +41 32 862 66 30

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www.Parmigiani.ch

SEIKO – Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Edition

SEIKO – Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Automatic Limited Edition

Urushi Byakudan-nuri lacquer and the moon at dawn.
An inspired combination.

A new creation in the Presage collection of fine mechanical watches takes its inspiration from Japan’s everlasting fascination with the moon. Following on from the success of the recent release of a deep blue enamel dial that evoked the night sky, this new limited edition uses one of the most elaborate lacquer techniques of all, Byakudan-nuri, as well as traditional Urushi, to portray the rich tones of the sky and moon just before dawn.

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The crescent shaped tip of the second hand is coated with a gold powder, giving it a special texture that resembles the surface of the moon. The power reserve indicator evokes the brilliance of the crescent moon illuminated by the sun. The crescent shape is also to be seen on the sapphire crystal case back, affixed by vapor deposition.

The Byakudan-nuri

Byakudan-nuri is a technique that has been used for centuries to decorate Urushi lacquer and, because of the complexity of the craftsmanship involved, was reserved exclusively for use in places and on objects of high status, including temples, shrines and on the armor of Shogun warlords.

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Lacquer ArtistIsshu Tamura

The complex processes, Urushi, Byakudan-nuri and Maki-e, are completed by hand by the craftsmen and women in the studio of Urushi master Isshu Tamura in the Hokuriku region of Honshu, Japan’s main island.

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Born in 1957, Isshu Tamura trained in the traditional Kaga Maki-e gold lacquer technique of Kanazawa. After honing his skills in the technique, Mr. Tamura set out to produce unparalleled original works of art. He has executed his technique in Kaga Maki-e not only in lacquerware, but also in the creation of luxury fountain pens and wristwatches which have received worldwide acclaim for their elaborate detail and fine beauty.

Urushi

First, the dials are made with the traditional Urushi technique in which jet black lacquer is painted by hand onto the metal base of the dial, dried and then polished.

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These processes are repeated several times until the craftsman has achieved the exact depth of black that he desires.

Byakudan-nuri

Using a new layer of Urushi as the binding agent, the sub-dials are then sprinkled with a layer of very fine metallic powder. The whole dial is then repeatedly painted with a red-tinged semi-transparent Urushi lacquer and then each new layer is dried and polished for as many times as the craftsman deems necessary.

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The effect is subtle but deeply satisfying. While the red of the sub-dials is deep, these two dials catch the light and shine when the ambient light grows brighter, just as parts of the sky catch the dawn light before others.

Maki-e

Now it is time to add the moon, using the Maki-e technique, in the form of the crescent shaped power reserve indicator. As with the Byakudan-nuri technique, the crescent is first coated with a layer of Urushi lacquer that acts as the adhesive for the fine, gilt-colored powder that is then applied to it.

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Once the powder is on the dial, the craftsman gently taps it to disperse the powder evenly across the surface and then uses his own specially chosen material to perfect the surface.

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The result is an indicator that not only reflects the shape of the crescent moon but has the moon’s shimmering, granular texture and contrasts with the smoothness of the sky against which it stands out.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: PRESAGE Limited Edition series

Model: PRESAGE Urushi Byakudan-nuri Edition

Ref.  SPB085

Movement
Caliber Number: 6R21
Movement Type: Automatic with manual winding capacity
Duration:  Approx. 45 hours. 29 jewels
Magnetic resitance: 4,800 A / m
Accuracy  +25 to -15 seconds per day
Features
    Date hand and day hand
    Day/Date display
    LIMITED EDITION on the case back
    Power reserve display
    Screw case back
    See-through case back
    Serial number engraved on the case back
    Stop seconds hand function
Exterior
Case Material: Stainless steel 
Diameter: 40.5mm, thickness: 12.8mm
Glass Material:  Curved sapphire
Glass Coating:  Super-clear coating
Water Resistance:  10 bar
Bracelet
Band Material:  Crocodile leather
Clasp:  Three-fold clasp with push button release

Limited edition of 2.000 pcs 
Available from December 2018.


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Press Release - 2018
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www.facebook.com - Seiko
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SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION
Mr­­ Noboru­­ Miyadera
2-8-10, Toranomon, Minato-ku,
Tokyo­­ 105-8467
Japan
Telephone+81 3 6739 2150
Telefax+81 3 6739 2071
seiko-pr@seiko-watch.co.jp
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