Thursday, September 13, 2018

URWERK – UR-111C Edition

















URWERKUR-SATELLITE UR-111C Steel Special Limited Edition

URWERK’s new UR-111C .
FROM INTENTITION TO REALITY

Singapore – September 2018. URWERK’s departures from its signature theme of wandering-hour indications have always been spectacular, and the selfwinding UR-111C is no exception. This latest exercise in complex micromechanics is a worthy rival to the brand’s other "Special Projects" line, in both originality and mechanical virtuosity. For the independent company’s 17 dedicated team members, the UR-111C proved a fiendishly difficult puzzle to solve.


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In the URWERK tradition, none of the indications of this UR-111C watch are conventional: The minutes are shown in two different ways - linearly for eyes pleasure (this new creation is a descendent of the UR-CC1 King Cobra watch and digitally for precision.

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 URWERK UR-CC1 King Cobra White Gold Limited Edition
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MOVEMENT - UR-CC1
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Never has a roller on the case performed the functions of the crown, nor have the running seconds meandered across a cluster of optical fibers.

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Nor would it be an authentic URWERK watch if its case didn’t look as if it had been designed by a Sci-fi passionate.



New design, new sensations

Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, the co-founders of URWERK, have always considered the owner’s interaction with the watch of extreme importance. “Wearing a fine mechanical object is a source of pleasure and pride,” declares Felix Baumgartner. “There has to be a strong bond with a mechanism that merges into your wrist and communicates with you.

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A mechanical watch is like the first steps towards enhanced intelligence: a machine that becomes part of you and which gives you information in return for energy. It’s an exchange. You take care of your watch and it will provide you with a lifelong service.

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Then these two had to turn their intention into reality and create a new interface with the watch. So instead of the conventional crown at the end of the stem, they conceived a roller integrated into the top of the case above and parallel to the winding stem.

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Rolling the long fluted cylinder with your thumb to wind the watch is indeed a new sensation, but making it possible requires miniature gearing, complex articulations and intermediate wheels to connect the controls to the winding stem.  The same applies to the original way of setting the time. Instead of pulling out a crown you swing out a lever from the side of the case and turn the roller in either direction.

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The hours and two versions of the minutes are displayed within glass sapphire covers along the side of the case so that you can see them at a glance without turning your wrist or letting go of the steering wheel. Again, converting the horizontal movement to a vertical time display required precisely angled transmission with miniature bevel gears. The jumping digital hours and progressive minutes are displayed on rotating truncated cones left and right of the retrograde linear indication of the minutes.


Forward action for a retrograde indication

Of course, the linear display of minutes has been done before by URWERK in the CC1 King Cobra watch, but Martin Frei decided to set an extra challenge to URWERK’s construction engineers for the UR-111C.

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He wanted to produce something visually different and make the linear track longer at the same time. He therefore decided that the linear track of the display should slant diagonally across its aperture, instead of horizontally in line with the rotating cylinder that carries the helix marker along the track of minutes.

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Because of the slanting track, the cylinder rotates 300 degrees about its axis to bring the helix to the 60th minute, at the same time arming a long, coiled spring. To bring the helix back to the start, the spring releases to snap the cylinder forward another 60 degrees and make the hours jump to the next hour.


Seconds brought to you by optical fiber

The UR-111C’s digital seconds are mounted alternately on two tiny wheels: 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 on one wheel, and 5, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55 on the other. Each openwork seconds wheel weighs 0.018 grams (0.025g with numerals) — miniature lacework in metal thanks to the LIGA process.

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The seconds numerals look strangely close as they pass across a circular window in sinuous progression. They appear alternately, transported into visual range by a dense cluster of precisely aligned optical fibers, known as an image conduit, positioned a tenth of a millimeter above the numerals. This is a world Première in the watchmaking area!

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The final touch of complexity in an already complex machine is its case. The movement with its unique indications, complicated transmission systems and selfwinding gear have to be slotted from the side of the case, once the panels have been removed and the time-setting lever dismantled. This is a slow and delicate operation given the tiny clearances and fragile mechanisms.

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The various finishes of the case are worthy of note — a harmonious combination of surface textures that have been sanded, shot-blasted, polished or satin finished. A simple screw can be finished in a number of different ways according to the surface on display.

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The various finishes of the case are worthy of note — a harmonious combination of surface textures that have been sanded, shot-blasted, polished or satin finished. A simple screw can be finished in a number of different ways according to the surface on display.


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Technical Specifications

Collection: UR-SATELLITE

Model  UR-111C

Edition
UR-111C - 25 in Iron polished steel and 25 with a gunmetal finish

MOVEMENT
Caliber:
UR-111C
Selfwinding caliber with stop seconds.
Jewels: 37
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours
Materials: Anodized aluminum cylinder; LIGA-processed nickel second wheels.
Surface finishes: Circular graining, sanding, côtes de Genève, polished screw heads.
INDICATIONS
Jumping hours, retrograde linear minutes, digital minutes, digital seconds.
CASE
Dimensions:
Width 42mm x length 46mm x thickness 15mm
  • Polished steel 
  • Gunmetal finish steel
Glass: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: Pressure tested to 3ATM / 100’ / 30m

 Limited Edition  to only 25 pieces

Price
CHF 130’000.00
(Swiss francs / tax not included)

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Press Release - 2018
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Media contact:
Ms Yacine Sar
Telephone: +41 22 900 2027
Mobile : +41 79 834 46 65
press@urwerk.com
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www.Urwerk.com

Wednesday, September 12, 2018

CHRISTOPHE CLARET – ADAGIO

CHRISTOPHE CLARET ADAGIO Quarter and Minute Repeater GMT - Collection 2018

Adagio, the Renaissance

Finely engraved with volutes, dainty flowers and musical instruments symbolizing the Renaissance, the Adagio watch returns to center-stage, interpreted through several one-of-a-kind models. Supreme artistry thus adorns this minute repeater that is combined with large date and dual-time displays. Admiring and listening to these creations will take connoisseurs on an aesthetic journey through the refinement of time.

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Christophe Claret would love to have been born during the Italian Renaissance, a period that he appreciates as much for its history as for its aesthetics, its artistic refinement and its intellectual thought. He makes no secret of this personal penchant – better described as a passion that has become an art of living for him – and some of his collections vividly betray this taste for ornamentation and classicism.

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The watchmaker’s fascination for 16th century arts is once again conveyed through the one-of-a-kind Adagio creations masterfully engraved by Neuchâtel-based artisan Eddy Jaquet. Working freelance for more than three decades, he is gifted with a rare expertise blending patience, meticulous care and artistic creativity, enabling him to join eye, hand and tools in sculpting matter. These one-of-a-kind new Adagio models were born from a fruitful dialogue between Christophe Claret and the engraver.

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A concerted, lengthy, passionate and fascinating quest to strike the perfect chord, to define the ornamental motif for the case, and above all to compose the six Renaissance musical instruments engraved on the lugs and the minute repeater sliding bolt. With a degree of finesse that requires a magnifying glass to appreciate each detail, a lute, a hurdy-gurdy, a tambourine and bagpipes appear on each of the lugs, while the minute repeater sliding bolt features two instruments: a sackbut and a bombarde, the respective ancestors of the trombone and the oboe.

Miniature sculptures

In order to highlight these six instruments, notably through remarkable contrasts, the engraver made ample use of the pounced ornament technique used for artisanal medals. Domed or flat surfaces, curves and angles, matt and polished areas… By cutting out the material to be sculpted, by carving it, scraping it or smoothing it down, the engraver successfully creates an amazingly realistic depiction further accentuated by light effects. The fold of a fabric, the slenderness of a string or the softness of wood are revealed with absolute precision.

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The case middle is engraved with rich ornamental motifs and volutes typical of Renaissance furniture. To reproduce such motifs resembling miniature sculptures, Eddy Jaquet gently extracted material using the fine line engraving technique.

From yesteryear to the present day

It takes around 130 hours of work for the engraver to craft each of these one-of-a-kind models, on which the abundance of the motifs adorning the 44 mm case strikes a powerful contrast with the total purity of the watch face. The deep black onyx or hawk’s eye dial displays the functions and complications in an extremely contemporary spirit.

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Beating steadily behind the scenes, the 455-part Manufacture Caliber SLB88 drives central hours and minutes, small seconds in a 9 o’clock aperture, a large date appearing at 6 o’clock, and a dual-time (hours and minutes) display with day/night indication in a 2 o’clock subdial.

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Melodiously chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, the “cathedral” gongs of the striking mechanism are fitted with a patented device that prevents them from colliding as they vibrate under the hammer blows. The large date with its unparalleled construction is also patented.

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This 34 mm movement with a 48-hour power reserve features finely decorated bridges. The crown is also equipped with a safety device: when the barrel spring is stretched to the full, a mechanism uncouples the stem in order to prevent any damage due to excessive tension.

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An exquisitely refined true horological gem, the engraved Adagio watch is available in various one-of-a-kind variations in 5N red gold, white gold or platinum, and with cases set with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel or with baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires.

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Technical specifications

Movement:
Caliber: SLB88, mechanical manual-winding
Dimensions:

-Diameter: 34 mm
-Thickness:
8.40 mm (without the hands)
Number of parts: 455
Number of jewels: 46

Power reserve: n48 hours
Escapement: Frequency: 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph)
⦁ Swiss lever type
Fonctions:    
The Adagio watch with hour, quarter and minute repeater, large date and GMT indicates the: 
  • Central hours and minutes, seconds in a 9 o’clock aperture
  • The large date through a 6 o’clock aperture
  • Time in second time-zone (dual-time display) with day/night indication in a subdial at 2 o’clock
  • And strike on demand (cathedral chime):
  • Hours (low-pitched tone)
  • Quarter-hours (alternate low- and high-pitched tones)
  • Minutes (high-pitched tone)
   
Case

Dimensions: Ø44 x 13.90 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

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Ref. MTR.SLB88.722:

CaseWhite gold
Renaissance-inspired musical instruments engraved on the lugs
(lute, hurdy-gurdy, tambourine and bagpipes) and on the sliding bolt  (bombarde and sackbut)
Tops of the lugs and bezel set with baguette-cut
diamonds (6.12 cts), five on each lug and 36 on the bezel

Crown: white gold, engraved cabochon
Dial: black onyx
Hands: white gold
Strap: black alligator leather
Buckle: white gold
One-of-a-kind model

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Ref. MTR.SLB88.902:

Case5N red gold
Renaissance-inspired musical instruments engraved on the lugs
(lute, hurdy-gurdy, tambourine and bagpipes) and on the sliding bolt (bombarde and sackbut)
Tops of the lugs and bezel set with baguette-cut
diamonds (6.12 cts), five on each lug and 36 on the bezel

Crown: 5N red gold, engraved cabochon
Dial: black onyx
Hands: 4N pink gold
Strap: black alligator leather
Buckle: 5N red gold
One-of-a-kind model

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Ref. MTR.SLB88.903:

Case:  Platinum
Renaissance-inspired musical instruments engraved on the lugs
(lute, hurdy-gurdy, tambourine and bagpipes) and on the sliding bolt
(bombarde and sackbut)
Tops of the lugs and bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds (6.12 cts),
five on each lug and 36 on the bezel

Crown:
white gold, engraved cabochon
Dial: hawk’s eye
Hands: white gold
Strap: black alligator leather
Buckle: white gold
One-of-a-kind model

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Ref. MTR.SLB88.904:

Case Platinum
Renaissance-inspired musical instruments engraved on the lugs
(lute, hurdy-gurdy, tambourine and bagpipes) and on the sliding bolt
(bombarde and sackbut)
Tops of the lugs and bezel set with baguette-cut gems (6.12 cts),
five diamonds on each lug, 36 diamonds and 12 sapphires on the bezel

Crown: white gold, engraved cabochon
Dial: black onyx
Hands: white gold, blue PVD-treated
Strap: black alligator leather
Buckle: white gold
One-of-a-kind model

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Press release - 2018
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Christophe ClaretAlexandra Beurier
Tel : +41 32 933 80 26
Email : a.beurier@christopheclaret.com
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