Wednesday, September 5, 2018

Hermes – Pièces d'exception Arceau Robe du Soir Edition


HermèsPièces d'exception Arceau Robe du Soir Gold 41 Limited Edition
Leather mosaic

Mosaic. The very name conjures up images of art and light, the meticulous assembly of multi-coloured fragments of which the combination forms an artistic motif. In a 41 mm-diameter Arceau watch, 2,200 tiny juxtaposed leather squares form a horse profile inspired by the Hermès “Robe du Soir” silk scarf designed by Florence Manlik in 2018.

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Set against an electric blue backdrop and matching strap, the colourful fragments are lit up by the rose gold glow of the round case with its asymmetrical lugs and slim leaf-type hands. This horological creation imbued with the Hermès saddle- and leather-making heritage is issued in a 12-piece limited numbered edition.

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It’s all there in a notebook kept safely under lock and key, harbouring the secrets of the Hermès artisan who imagined and developed this exclusive technique. A full year and a half of R&D was devoted to devising a process that her touch alone is capable of mastering.

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For several weeks, she patiently fashions a miniature work of art composed of thousands of variously coloured leather squares. First of all, no less than 3,500 tesserae are finely cut out from carefully selected full-grain calfskin. Subsequently, to fit inside the even smaller space afforded by the dial, 2,200 leather fragments compose an equestrian motif picked up from the Hermès “Robe du Soir” silk scarf.

Mastery firmly in the saddle

This new rose gold Arceau reaffirms its style in radiantly vibrant colours. The horse with its vivid hues stands out beautifully against the electric blue background, enhanced by a Swift calfskin strap in the same shade.

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Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the famous round case with its stirrup-inspired asymmetrical lugs lends its classicism to the unbridled originality of this model. Sweeping over the leather mosaic dial, the slender hours and minutes hands are driven by a self-winding Manufacture Hermès movement that can be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back.

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Issued in a 12-piece limited numbered edition, the Arceau “Robe du Soir” watch transposes the art of contemporary mosaic into the playfully creative world of Hermès.

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Technical Specifications

Model: Arceau “Robe du Soir” Edition


Reference 046075WW00/AR8.770.202/WW7T

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Hermès movement
Manual-winding mechanical
Power reserve: 50 h,
28.000 variations / hours
Functions Hours, Minutes
CASE
Designer: Henri d’Origny (1978)
Case in 750 Rose Gold
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 9.6 mm
Waterproofness 30 m
Glass: Anti-glare sapphire crystal
Case back: Sapphire crystal case-back
DIAL
Leather mosaic - horse profile designed by Florence Manlik
Slim leaf-type hands.
STRAP
Natural or electric blue Swift calfskin
Single wrap-around, long size, gold pin buckle

EDITION
Limited Edition - Only 12 pieces

Price incl. VAT 52'000 CHF

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Press Release - 2018
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Hermès Horloger Press Relations
Katy Jolidon

katy.jolidon@montre-hermes.ch
+41 (0)32 366 71 00
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Ina Delcourt - 13-15, rue de la Ville-l’Évêque,
75008 Paris - Tel.: + 33 (0)1 40 17 47 89.
Fax: + 33 (0)1 48 10 17 88
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Tuesday, September 4, 2018

Czapek – FAUBOURG DE CRACOVIE L'Heure Bleue Edition


CzapekFAUBOURG DE CRACOVIE L'Heure Bleue Handcrafted Guilloché "Résonance" Dial Chronograph Steel Limited Edition
 
Faubourg de CracovieL’Heure Bleue

Geneva, 2018 | Czapek & Cie unveils a new collection for its growing portfolio of elegant timepieces. The Faubourg de Cracovie combines traditional refinement with the sportive twist of a chronograph function. The watch comes with three different dials that illustrate the outstanding quality of Swiss craftsmanship.

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"Take the romantic nobility of our first watches and add a chronograph to give it some athletic pizzazz," says Czapek & Cie CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel. "That's our latest model, and it's unmistakably Czapek, traditional but with a modern flair."


Czapek’s Faubourg de Cracovie combines traditional refinement with the sportive twist of a chronograph function. The timepiece comes in a slightly modified 41.5-millimeter Quai des Bergues Revolution case in sober steel. The famous crown protectors are still in place and now serve, ingeniously, as pushers.

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The dial, under an edgy sapphire crystal, is also unmistakably Czapek: The two signature subdials have been enlarged and moved up to 3 and 9 o'clock positions, where they now display the chronograph's minutes and hours respectively. A small seconds subdial shares the date spot at 6 o'clock. The razor fine "trotteuse" chronograph hand stands out thanks to its bright red tip, which homes in on an equally visible "60" at the top of the hour.

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The Faubourg de Cracovie dial reintroduces the fascinating guilloché "Ricochet" of the Quai des Bergues collection. Intersecting circular lines form a pattern of bas-relief squares that make the dial come alive, recalling the wave interference pattern a stone might make when ricocheting on water.

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This traditional technique was made possible by the rose engine lathe, which was devised in the late Eighteenth century and became a key machine in fine dial-making. The Ricochet design goes back to François Czapek himself.

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The new model is called “L’Heure Bleue”, a romantic inspiration related to Nature. The “Heure Bleue”, “Blue Hour”, a nautical term, is a period of twilight in the morning and in the evening when the sun is below the horizon and the residual sunlight takes on a predominantly blue shade. On a clear day, blue hour can be a colorful spectacle, treasured by many artists.

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Czapek's first chronograph is driven by a bespoke automatic movement, the SXH3. This integrated column-wheel chronograph movement was built by the outstanding craftspeople at Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier in the Jura mountains, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking. It delivers 65h power reserve from a single barrel that drives the balance wheel at 36,000 vph.

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The movement makes use of some of the most advanced and effective mechanical elements, like the linear hammer, which reduces wear and tear on parts and resets all the associated dials in one easy movement.

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A modern solution, the vertical clutch, ensures a perfect start for the chronograph hand. Finally, the diamond-blasted anthracite bridges give the final aesthetic twist to the movement visible through the transparent case back.

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The Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph is the company's third collection and was named after the location of Czapek third boutique, which he opened in 1850 in Warsaw, Poland.

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The calibre inside is also Czapek's third, following the seven-day manually-wound movement in the Quai des Bergues and the suspended tourbillon with GMT in the Place Vendôme, both famous locations of the late François Czapek. The Faubourg de Cracovie represents another major milestone in the company's modern history... for the pleasure of watch lovers and collectors world-wide.

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The three new models are called “Grand Feu”, “L’Heure Bleue” and “Dioné & Rhéa”. While the explanation of the first name is evident, the other two have a romantic inspiration related to Nature. The “Heure Bleue”, “Blue Hour”, a nautical term, is a period of twilight in the morning and in the evening when the sun is below the horizon and the residual sunlight takes on a predominantly blue shade.

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On a clear day, blue hour can be a colorful spectacle, treasured by many artists. “Dioné & Rhéa”, instead, are two of the four moons of the planet Saturn, discovered by Italian astronomer Cassini and called so after two Titaness of Greek mythology. The two white satellites stand bright in the dark sky as the two subdials in the black guilloche dial of the eponymous model.

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Technical Specifications

Collection:FAUBOURG DE CRACOVIE
L'Heure Bleue Edition
Handcrafted Guilloché "Résonance" dial Chronograph Steel 

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MOVEMENT
Caliber SXH3

Haute Horlogerie integrated automatic Chronograph movement with a bespoke execution
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 5 Hz - 36'000 VpH
Column Wheel, Vertical Clutch and Linear Hammer
Golden Rotor with Czapek logo
Diameter: 30mm - 13 lines 1/4
Height: 6.95mm
Finish: finely sandblasted and diamond polished anthracite bridges, snailed trottoirs
CASE
Stainless Steel
Diameter:  41.5mm  
Height:  13.8 mm
Sapphire crystal Glass-Box with anti-reflective treatment
Sapphire case back with Anti-reflective treatment on the inner side.
Water Resistance: 50m
FUNCTIONS
Chronograph, Hours, Minutes & Seconds
  • Chronograph's Minutes at 3 o'clock
  • Chronograph's Hours at 9 o'clock
  • Small seconds at 6 o'clock
  • Date at 6 o'clock
DIAL
Handcrafted Guilloché "Résonance" bombé dial in AuPtPdAg
Baton applied indexes with Super Luminova treatment
12 in Arabic numerals with Super Luminova treatment
HANDS
Czapek Modern Rodhium plated steel hands,
Arrow with Superluminova treatment, Original 'Fleur de Lys'
Small second hand with red tip
BRACELET
Alligator Strap with a steel deploying buckle

Limited Edition to 18 exemplaires

Price incl. VAT  24'000 CHF

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Press Release - 2018
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Czapek & Cie – 2, Rue Saint-Léger, 1205 Genève Suisse
Contact presse: Valeria Garavaglia Pedroni
Email: valeria@czapek.com | +41 79 314 08 54
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