Saturday, June 2, 2018

SEIKO – Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 20th Anniversary Edition


















SEIKO – Grand Seiko HERITAGE Hi-Beat 36000 Automatic 20th Anniversary Special Limited Edition






A new Grand Seiko Hi-beat 36000

The quest for high precision

A wristwatch's precision is the ultimate test of its quality, which is why, from the very start, the Grand Seiko team had always put precision at the top of the list of priorities. The company had long been honing the precision of its watches in Japanese chronometer trials but, wanting to test itself against the world’s best, accepted the gracious invitation of Neuchatel and Geneva Observatory chronometer accuracy competitions and participated from the early 1960’s, vying with the world's top watchmakers to make the most accurate watches. It was through this process that the Grand Seiko team became convinced that high-beat movements were the best way to achieve the greatest precision.

In every mechanical watch, the force exerted by the mainspring as it unwinds turns the gears while the constant rate of oscillation of the balance wheel applies a brake on the gears, resulting in the precise rotation of the hands. The precision of a watch therefore depends on the stability of the balance wheel. Just as a fast-spinning top is more stable than a slow-spinning one, the higher the oscillation frequency of the balance, the less susceptible is the movement to the impact of shock and other forces and the greater the precision.

Through its experience in the Observatory competitions, the team identified 36,000 oscillations per hour (10 per second) as the rate needed to achieve both high accuracy and durability and, in 1968, two different high-beat movements were created. The Suwa Seikosha team made the automatic-winding Caliber 61 series and Daini Seikosha the manual-winding Caliber 45 series. With these two new calibers, the company took its place among the select few manufacturers who successfully rose to the high-beat challenge.

By the 1990’s , advances in manufacturing and materials had opened new possibilities in Grand Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking and these advances were used to the full in the creation of the completely new 9S mechanical movement in 1998. Following its development, the engineers began pursuing even higher accuracy and durability and, in 2004, a new project was launched to develop a 10 beat movement that would take Grand Seiko’s precision to a new level.


Three special movements, 
a new case and a unique dial

To celebrate the twentieth anniversary of 9S caliber, the Grand Seiko team has created a series of three limited edition timepieces, each of which pays homage, in its own way, to the remarkable heritage of the 9S caliber.

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To mark this 20th anniversary, Grand Seiko’s award-winning designer, Nobuhiro Kosugi, has crafted a new design based on the foundation of his original 1998 Caliber 9S model.


Hi-Beat 36000 Caliber 9S85

The challenge of making a high-beat movement is one that only a few watchmakers choose to accept. With its higher oscillation rate of ten beats per second, greater accuracy is achievable, but this increased precision comes at a price because the faster rotational speed can take its toll on the power reserve and even the longevity of the whole movement.

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Grand Seiko's 10 beat movement meets these challenges and delivers an accuracy of +5 to –3 seconds a day, a power reserve of 55 hours and the durability for which every Grand Seiko watch is renowned.


New dial pattern

The dial is exceptional. Its design incorporates the special mark used back in the 1960’s to designate watches made by Daini Seikosha, the company known today as Seiko Instruments Inc.

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This long-cherished mark alternates with the initials “GS” in a delicate mosaic that radiates out from the center of the dial in a geometric pattern.

A special oscillating weight

The watch is equipped with a special oscillating weight made of titanium and tungsten.

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The blue titanium surface, achieved by means of anodic oxidation*, is accented in yellow with a GS Lion Emblem and is engraved the words “Caliber 9S 20th Anniversary Since 1998”.

*Anodic oxidation treatment

This is a surface treatment in which metals are subjected to electrolysis so as to generate artificially an oxide film.

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Titanium oxide film produces color according to the light refraction index, enabling production of different colors by varying the thickness of the oxide film.

*In an actual product, the case back direction might be different from the photograph.

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Technical specifications

Collection: HERITAGE

Model: Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 20th Anniversary Limited Edition

Ref. SBGH267G


Movement
Driving system: Automatic with manual winding mechanism
Caliber 9S85
Accuracy (when static): +5 to -3 seconds per day
Note: This accuracy is the result of measuring the loss/gain of the time for seventeen days before the inside movements of the watch are put in the case.
The measurement has been done in the factory where temperatures or position of the movements are controlled.
Normal usage accuracy:  +8 to -1 seconds per day
Power reserve:     Approximately 55 hours
Vibrations: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)
Jewels:    37 jewels
Case
Stainless steel case
Case back: stainless steel and sapphire crystal
Glass: Dual-curved sapphire crystal glass
Coating: Anti-reflective coating on inner surface
Size: Diameter 39.5mm×Thickness 13.0mm
Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release, secure lock and slide adjuster

Approximate recommended retail price in USD 6,300

Limited edition of 1.500 pcs

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Press Release - 2018
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www.Grand-seiko.com
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www.facebook.com - Seiko
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SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION
Mr­­ Noboru­­ Miyadera
2-8-10, Toranomon, Minato-ku,
Tokyo­­ 105-8467
Japan
Telephone+81 3 6739 2150
Telefax+81 3 6739 2071
seiko-pr@seiko-watch.co.jp
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www.SeikoWatches.com

Friday, June 1, 2018

Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC Hémisphères Rétrograde Steel

Parmigiani FleurierTORIC Hémisphères Rétrograde Steel
The traveller's watch, available in steel

The Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde is the ultimate traveller's timepiece. With its two time zones, it allows any two locations to be paired, and correct to the nearest minute. It even allows those locations with a half-hour or quarter-hour difference to be paired with full hour times set from the Greenwich meridian.

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Featuring a knurled bezel, the signature feature of the Toric family, the case of this timepiece was the first creation designed by Michel Parmigiani in 1996.

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In 2018, Parmigiani Fleurier presented a new version of this flagship model featuring a steel case. This launch followed the unveiling of the Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde in gold, which was awarded the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2017 in the "TRAVEL TIME" category. 

A WORLD FIRST INSPIRED BY A RESTORED PIECE

It was a restored piece that inspired Parmigiani Fleurier to add the GMT complication to its collection. Parmigiani Fleurier's restoration workshops had been entrusted with a pocket watch containing two movements inside one case, each responsible for its own time zone. This sparked a desire to create a timepiece that incorporated the same accuracy of display in the reduced space of a watch case too small to house two separate movements.

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Michel Parmigiani found an elegant solution to this limitation by constructing a single calibre that controls two time zones, each accurate to the nearest minute. The Tonda Hémisphères released by Parmigiani Fleurier in 2010 was a world first. In 2017, the brand is extending this exceptional movement to the Toric collection, its founding model, to add a dimension of travel to its elegant and timeless aesthetics.

CALIBRE PF317

The Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde has two time zones, each accurate to the nearest minute. A module is indexed to the main movement in order to govern the second time zone. By pulling out the small crown at 2 o'clock, the module is disengaged from the movement, meaning that it can be adjusted independently of the second time zone, to the nearest minute.

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When the crown is pressed back in, the movement and the module re-engage and the second time zone is re-indexed to the first so that they operate simultaneously with the desired interval. The main crown at 4 o'clock is used to wind the movement and set the time of the two paired time zones, such as the date. Each of the time zones is associated with a window, which provides the day/night indication so that the time of day can be read in an instant for each time zone.

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The calibre PF 317 also features an instant retrograde calendar, indicated by the third central hand. As it moves towards the last days of the month, the hand activates a spring which drives it back to number 1 with great force. This 240° movement is so fast that it cannot be seen with the naked eye.

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This self-winding movement has a double series-mounted barrel for improved isochronism and rate regularity, with a power reserve of 50 hours.

UNDERSTATED YET CAPTIVATING AESTHETICS

The dial of the Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde is designed so that the most important functions stand out the most in a very specific hierarchy. Firstly, the hands of the main time zone, plated in 4N gold, are coated with Super-LumiNova® to make them luminous and more prominent.

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Meanwhile, the hands of the second time zone covered in matt black color to present a more discreet shade. Finally, the date indication stands out thanks to fine numerals that are large enough to ensure good legibility. They are indicated by a hand ending in a red crescent moon. The rest of the dial is understated, discreet and harmonious to avoid any distractions when reading these key temporal indications.

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On the back of the piece, the movement is entirely decorated with Côtes de Genève and circular-grained to the highest Haute Horlogerie standards. It incorporates an 22 ct rose gold guilloché oscillating weight to add a prestigious touch befitting of a timepiece dedicated to travel.

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This unique timepiece has never ceased to fascinate, by blending a classic, elegant aesthetic with the functions essential for the modern traveller.

The Toric Hémisphère Rétrograde is available with a rose gold case paired with a grained white dial.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: TORIC 

Model: Hémisphère Rétrograde Steel
 
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Reference: PFC493-0001400-XA1442

MOVEMENT   
Calibre PF317
Winding: Self-winding
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28,800 Vib/h
Dimensions: 15 ¾''' - Ø 35.6 mm
Thickness: 5.45 mm
Components: 316
Jewels: 28
Barrel(s): 2 series-coupled barrels
Decoration: "Côtes de Genève" decoration, bevelled bridges

FUNCTIONS
  • Hours, Minutes
  • Small seconds
  • Retrograde date
  • Day/night
  • Second time zone
CASE
Shape: Round, in 3 sections
Dimensions: Ø 42.8 mm
Material: Steel
Finish: Polished
Water resistance: 30 m
Case-back: Sapphire
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown: Ø 5.5 mm & Ø 6 mm
Engraving on case-back: Individual number
DIAL
Material: Black opaline
Indices: Rose gold gilded
Hands: Javelin-shaped
STRAP
Brand: Hermès
Material: Alligator
Colour: Black
BUCKLE
Type:
Folding buckle


Price 16'900.

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Press release - 2018
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Contact
Tel-  +41 32 862 66 30
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www.facebook.com - Parmigiani Fleurier
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www.Parmigiani.ch