Thursday, May 3, 2018

Andreas Strehler – Trans-axial Remontoir Tourbillon




















Andreas Strehler Trans-axial® Remontoir Tourbillon


In his never-ending quest for precision, Andreas Strehler has developed a new movement which combines his Remontoir d'égalité (constant force) with a Tourbillon. And has some additional interesting features.

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Twin power: The epicyclical mainspring limiter

In Andreas Strehler watches, the energy for operating the movement is stored in twin mainspring barrels. The running down of the two mainsprings is limited by an epicyclical gear. Only the optimal part of each mainspring is used where the power supplied is practically constant.

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This is already a very good start. But not the perfect solution yet. Even by using the highest-grade lubricants and the tightest tolerances in manufacturing each component, the flow of energy from the mainsprings will be subject to variations.

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Changes in temperature or in the position of the watch will cause such variations. To filter these variations, Andreas Strehler employs a Remontoir d'égalité or constant force escapement.

Regulated Energy: The Remontoir d'égalité

In Andres Strehler's Remontoir d'égalité, the energy supplied from the twin mainspring barrels through the gear train is accumulated in a spring, acting on a satellite arm held in position by the star wheel (the satellite). One tooth of this star wheel is resting on the palette-stone of the palette arm.

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This palette arm constantly moves ahead. Every second, the palette arm releases the star wheel. The star wheel turns by one tooth and the satellite arm jumps ahead by 6°. The satellite wheel then rests again against the palette-stone and the cycle starts anew.

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When moving ahead by 6°, the satellite arm recharges the spring which drives the escapement. The amount of energy transferred to the escapement thus is always the same, it is constant. The energy is transferred to the escapement through an axis.

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Conquering Gravity: The Tourbillon

The escapement mounted on this axis is a Tourbillon. The Tourbillon is a special escapement. It is also one of the most complicated components known to watchmaking. In a Tourbillon, the whole escapement including the balance rotates typically once a minute.

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The idea behind the Tourbillon is that the balance, despite its name, is never perfectly balanced. This means that it oscillates slightly differently, depending on its position in space.

When the Tourbillon was invented by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801, men wore pocket watches. A pocket watch is carried vertically, and the balance always oscillates on a horizontal axis. This means that gravity pulls more on any part of the balance which is thicker or heavier. Now, by rotating the whole escapement and hence the balance once a minute, it did not matter if the balance was slightly imperfect: Gravity would still pull heavier on the thicker part of the balance. But, by its rotation, this effect would even itself out. The balance would, for one part of the rotation of the Tourbillon, work uphill, so to speak. But for the other part of the rotation of the Tourbillon, it would work downhill (and for the rest of the time in neutral).

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As wristwatches are worn in many different positions, it was thought for a long time that the Tourbillon was an utterly beautiful but absolutely useless complication. A masterpiece of watchmaking but of no relevance to the precision of the movement. Then, Tourbillon watches started to win chronometer competitions. And the perception of the Tourbillon again changed. It is now universally considered to be utterly beautiful and absolutely useful.


All together now: The Trans-axial® Remontoir Tourbillon

In his quest for perfection, Andreas Strehler has designed, constructed and built a movement where internal influences on the already pretty linear power supply from the epicyclically limited twin mainspring barrels is filtered through a Remontoir d'égalité and transferred to a Tourbillon escapement mounted on the same axis to eliminate the influence of gravity on the escapement.

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Voilà the Trans-axial® Remontoir Tourbillon.

The Trans-axial® Remontoir Tourbillon escapement is hand wound, using Andreas Strehler's own true conical gear wheels (which are the envy of the watch industry).

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To show the power left in the two mainspring barrels, the movement has a power reserve indication using an extremely small differential gear, another speciality of Andreas Strehler.

The Remontoir d'égalité is mounted on three roller bearings and powers a separate jumping seconds indication. The Tourbillon is held in position by two gold chatons.

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Technical Specifications

Movement
Hand-wound skeletonized tourbillon
Calibre Trans-axial Remontoir Tourbillon
Impulse: Double main spring barrel, energy regulated by a remontoir d’égalité
Plates and bridges: Three 18k gold bridges, Central Main Plate and bridges are decorated to the highest standards, edges bevelled and polished by hand, fully decorated movement
Escapement: swiss lever escapement designed by Andreas Strehler
Regulating system: Free-Sprung balance with Breguet overcoil and eight adjustment screws
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21’600 A/h
Number of jewels: 37, 3 gold chatons
Number of individual parts: 250
Size: 32.0 x 30.0 mm
Height: 7.01 mm (without Tourbillon)
Power reserve: 78 h, limited by a differential stop works
Functions: Hour, minute, small jumping second, constant force, Tourbillon, power reserve indication (micro differential gear train)
Winding-mechanism: Hand winding with conical gear wheels
Speciality: Constant force Tourbillon, Remontoir trans-axial underneath the Tourbillon, special roller bearing for the remontoir.
Case
Stainless steel
Dial
Skeleton
  • Tourbillon at 9 o'clock.
  • Power reserve indication at 10 o'clock.
Silver with three 18k gold bridges and rotating vernier scale
Hands: Hands: Blue steel with SuperLuminova
Strap
Hand-sewn alligator leather strap
Buckle matching the case

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Press release - 2018
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Contact US
Andreas Strehler
Standbachstrasse 26
CH-8370 Sirnach
Switzerland
phone +41 71 966 11 88
fax +41 71 966 11 79
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Astrehler.ch

Wednesday, May 2, 2018

CERTINA – DS PH200M Steel


CERTINAHeritage DS PH200M Stainless Steel Automatc
Back to the future

Certina has always enjoyed getting to the bottom of things – not just in terms of precision and durability, but also where ocean research is concerned. In its latest creation, the Swiss watch brand is reviving a historical model that is just as current today as it ever was. The DS PH200M represents a seamless continuation of its predecessor's timeless design, combining it with a high-performance automatic movement of the latest generation.

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In the 1960s and 1970s, Certina demonstrated the robustness of its own timepieces in a series of high-profile research projects and expeditions. These journeys not only took the watches to dizzying heights, but also brought them down to the bottom of the sea. This experience inspired the brand to develop a new timepiece dedicated to life under the sea – the DS PH200M.

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In 2018, Certina will showcase the new edition of this classic. Its stainless steel case with a diameter of 42.8 mm is fitted with a black unidirectional graduated bezel. It surrounds a black dial that contrasts perfectly with the Super-LumiNova-coated hands and indices, even in darkness. Turning the watch over, one is greeted with the relief of a turtle, Certina's brand symbol. The supple black/grey NATO fabric strap with a pin buckle and the brown calfskin leather strap for formal use put the final touches to the model.

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Its similarities with the original are more than superficial; like its predecessor, the new DS PH200M draws on the original DS Concept of the 1960s. Unlike modern Certina watches, this timepiece features a rounded hesalite box glass with anti-reflective coating on one face and a scratch-resistant NEX Scratchguard coating along with a separate mounting ring that ensure double security and water resistance up to 20 bar.

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When it comes to the mechanical timepiece's precision and operational performance, however, Certina has opted for a modern approach. An innovative Powermatic 80 movement ensures accuracy and an 80-hour power reserve. Thus the new version of the old DS PH 200 m is a nod to the past while looking decisively to the future.

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Technical details

Collection: Heritage 

Reference: C036.407.16.050.00

Movement
Automatic ETA Powermatic 80.111,
Swiss made,  hour, minute and second hands, date display,
power reserve: 80 hours
Case
Brushed 316L stainless steel,
rotating bezel with dive-time scale, screw-down crown,
screw-down case back; 42.8 mm diameter;
case back with CERTINA turtle logo
Water resistance: Up to 20 bar pressure (200 m)
Dial
Black lacquered dial;
hands and indices with Super-LumiNova coating;
red second hand; date at 3 o'clock
Crystal:
Rounded hesalite box glass treated with anti-reflective coating on one face with additional NEX Scratchguard coating
Watch strap:
Black, grey NATO fabric strap with pin buckle
Brown calfskin leather strap with pin buckle

Specificity:
Original DS Concept (Double Security), increased water resistance,
new edition of a historical 1960s watch,
two different straps (NATO fabric and calfskin leather strap)

*Recommended retail price
Switzerland CHF 695.00 /UK £ 565.00 / IRL € 695.00 / SVE SEK 6‘390.00 / FIN € 725.00*

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Press release - 2018
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www.facebook.com - Certina
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www.Certina.com