Thursday, April 12, 2018

Moritz Grossmann – ATUM ‘Backpage’ 41mm


Moritz GrossmannATUM Backpage’ Gold & Platinum 41mm 10th Anniversary Edition

Moritz Grossmann presents the
ATUM Backpage

Impeccable finishing – seen on the wrist

Until today, most of the highlights of a Moritz Grossmann calibre could only be admired on the caseback side of the watch. The development of the calibre 107.0, makes them visible on the dial side for the first time.

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This new calibre is a mirror image of calibre 100.1 but has been redesigned for reverse rotation so that the movement can sit ‘upside down’ in the case. An generous aperture in the dial then exposes characteristic movement details such as the Grossmann balance, the hand-engraved balance cock and the 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel – all without taking the watch off the wrist.

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Calibre 100.1
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Two versions have been produced, in rose gold with a grey dial, and in platinum with a blue dial.  In each case, the dial presents a full minute scale and an hour display from 11 to 5 o’clock to frame the glittering calibre presentation.  Gold hour markers and numerals match the case colour.

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The recessed small seconds ring has an extravagant bearing for the second hand featuring a gold chaton.

Calibre 107.0

Calibre 107.0 is essentially a mirror image of the calibre 100.1, but with crucial new design elements.  An additional wheel between the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel reverses the entire drive train with respect to the rotation of the mainspring barrel.  The wheel train runs in the right direction thanks to the mirrored escapement and the mirrored oscillation system – also including the balance spring coiling direction.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The larger dimensions of the 2/3 plate necessitated design changes for the balance cock and the escape-wheel cock. The cantilevered geometry of the escape-wheel cock creates a balanced accent in the overall arrangement of the movement. The High-Artistic finish showcases attractive hand engravings, bevels, and chamfers.

The minute-wheel bridge

To achieve the desired presence of the winding wheels on the dial side, the dial train was reconfigured. The artistically finished train wheels were arranged beneath a lavishly polished minute-wheel bridge. Since in this case, the hand-setting mechanism is located on the opposite side of the movement, the setting wheel extends all the way through the calibre.

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The new arrangement created space for the optimised barrel bearing and the ratchet wheel, which was also shifted to the front side.

The winder with pusher and stop seconds

On the new rear side of the movement, the winding and hand-setting mechanism is now openly integrated in the train bridge, so its functionality can be fully observed for the first time. The stop-seconds and stop-balance functions have been redesigned as well.

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In the hand-setting mechanism, the brake position is sampled at the clutch lever and, via a push rod, transferred to the brake spring, which then stops the balance.

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After the pusher is activated and the movement starts, the brake spring returns the push rod to its rest position.

The platinum version is limited to 18 pieces to celebrate our 2018 10th anniversary.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

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Versions:

Reference    MG-001396
Case    750/000 rose gold
Dial     Charcoal
Hands    Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown hue

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Reference    MG-001642

Case    Platinum
Dial     Blue    
Hands    Manually crafted, annealed to a blue hue
Limited edition    18 watches worldwide

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Technical Specifications

Movement
Manufacture calibre 107.0, manually wound, adjusted in five positions
Dimensions    Diameter: 36.4 mm, height 5.0 mm
No. of parts    230
No. of jewels    24, of which 7 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement    Lever escapement
Oscillator     Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws,  Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry
Balance     Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve    42 hours when fully wound
Functions 
Hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, Grossmann winder with pusher
Operating elements     Crown in precious metal, for winding the watch and setting the time, pusher in precious metal for starting the movement
Case dimensions    Diameter: 41.0 mm, height 11.35 mm
Case
Three-part, precious metal
  • Rose Gold
  • Platinum
Dial
Solid silver, baton hour markers in precious metal
Hands    Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown or blue hue
Crystal and display back    Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator strap with prong buckle in precious metal

Special features    Shock-resistant balance with inertia and poising screws, impulse pin integrated in rim; flat balance spring; balance staff with integrated safety roller; index adjuster with Grossmann micrometer screw; plate movement with 2/3 plate on dial side, frame pillars and separately removable clutch winding mechanism; visible hand setting train on the back side of the movement; frame parts in untreated German silver; Grossmann winder with pusher and stop seconds; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; remodified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; mainspring barrel with bilateral jewel bearings for optimised power management in the low-torque range; ARCAP train wheels; proprietary escapement with 18-tooth escape wheel; balance cock and crown wheel, intermediate winding wheel and ratchet wheel with stopwork on the modified spring barrel bearing with a gold chaton

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Press Release - 2018
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PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Rainer Kern - Leiter Kommunikation
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
rainer.kern@grossmann-uhren.com
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Wednesday, April 11, 2018

HYSEK – IO Skeleton Central Tourbillon Edition















HYSEKIO Skeleton Central Tourbillon Gold 45mm Limited Edition



IO SKELETON CENTRAL TOURBILLON:
EVEN MORE LIGHT AND TRANSLUCENCE

The new IO Skeleton Central Tourbillon features an entirely different design compared to its predecessor, further highlighting its Central Tourbillon. In this new, limited edition of just 88 pieces, skeletonisation and transparency take pride of place, benefiting from innovative metallisation and openwork techniques.

Hysek continues to transcend the art of watchmaking, taking it to whole new levels of ingenuity and audacity, accompanied by all the technical and aesthetic skills its independent status gives it the freedom to deploy. The new IO Skeleton Central Tourbillon embodies this ongoing ascent.

The HW22 caliber with which the piece is fitted allows the central tourbillon to remain at the heart of its identity. Hysek also painstakingly searched for the perfect way to arrange the hours and minutes around it; indeed, very few watches feature layouts around a central tourbillon, and even fewer use a flying tourbillon do so. Add to that the facts that the piece is fitted with jumping hours and boasts a skeletonised assembly, and one is left wondering who else apart from Hysek would be capable of pulling off such a feat.

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The central tourbillon is the dominant feature in the composition, and very much sets the tone of the piece. Fully visible, without any obstacles, it is hand-finished and features a “flying” design – this means it has a cage held in place only by its lower bridge, with no upper bridge. Being supported only from below gives the impression of it floating in thin air, hence the adjective “flying”. This rare, authentic Haute Horlogerie complication adds a sense of lightness to the piece, further enhanced by the skeletonisation of the plate.

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This exercise in skeletonisation has also been extended to the entire movement. Not satisfied with simply making the components openwork, Hysek has redesigned their shape and location in order to have a caliber that leaves as much room as possible for light to shine through, resulting in a completely new arrangement. Adopting the same approach to the final aesthetic appearance, Hysek has also designed hours and minutes discs that feature their own special openwork, revealing a movement that has been refined to its simplest expression.

An intuitive tiered time display

A tiered time display is arranged around this flying tourbillon. The time is read intuitively, even as the user’s gaze is naturally drawn towards the tourbillon. The hours window is displayed at 12 o’clock, and denoted by a luminous triangle, the bottom of which opens out naturally towards the minutes. A second luminous marker indicates the 60 minutes as they pass by in rotation. Here again, one’s gaze is constantly drawn down and to the right, to the tourbillon, as it marks out the seconds in a mesmerising, airborne ballet.

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The architecture of this composition is unique – not only for Hysek, but probably in watchmaking as a whole. Not only that, the hours and minutes discs are fully skeletonised. In an unusual approach, the figures used do not rest on a translucent surface. Instead, they have been cut out one by one, and are literally suspended in mid-air, held in place only at the top. The hours disc is rotated by the outer rim of the piece, while the minutes ring is held in place by the four golden arms forming the structure of the watch. Connoisseurs of the manufacture will recognise their hallmark positioning at 1, 5, 7 and 11 o’clock – Hysek’s own four cardinal points, used in the layout of most of its creations. To further aid time-telling, Hysek has added still another touch: each figure is coated with blocks of SuperLumiNova, each individually moulded to the nearest micron. The result is a far cry from standard-fare luminous coating added as an additional layer: the technique uses face-fixed blocks, which are denser and produce far better brightness.


A dynamic finish showcasing the central tourbillon

For this limited edition of just 88 watches, Hysek has developed an exclusive finish. The aim is to enhance and amplify the tourbillon movement, the entire focus of this new IO. The upper sapphire crystal is decorated with a circular metallisation pattern that appears to emanate directly from the tourbillon, thus heightening its visual impact. To maximise the effect, Hysek has also removed the micro-rotor from its caliber, offering the most unobstructed view possible of the skeletonisation.

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At 12 o’clock, Hysek has crafted a bespoke blue section, providing a backdrop against which the minutes stand out in excellent contrast. To maintain a coherent style effect, the same blue is also to be found on each of the 14 blue-tinted screws visible on the dial, in the finest Haute Horlogerie tradition, as well as being used for the “Hysek” name.

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The new IO Tourbillon Central Squelette is 45 millimetres in diameter, boasts a 42-hour power reserve, and comes in an 18-carat rose gold case featuring three-clawmark lugs, one of the manufacturer’s signature touches.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  IO 45mm Skeleton Central Tourbillon Edition

Ref. IO4527R04

MOVEMENT
Hysek Calibre HW22
Manual Mechanical
Central flying tourbillon
Hour & minute
24-hour jumping hours
Circular satin-finish decoration
316 components
65 jewels
Power Reserve 45 hours ± 3 hours
Frequency 28,800 vph 
CASE
Dimensions : Ø 45mm x E12mm
Round shape
18k rose gold
Water resistance 30m
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection
Sunburst metalized back sapphire crystal
DIAL
Skeletonised dial,
skeletonised hours and minutes discs, SLN block figures
STRAP
Alligator strap
Deployment clasp

Limited Edition of 88 watches

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Press Release - 2018
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MANUFACTURE HYSEK SA   
Chemin de la Vignette 1  
CH-1167 Lussy-sur-Morges  
Phone +41 21 804 90 90
Fax +41 21 803 19 29
marketing@hysek.com
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