LOUIS MOINET – METROPOLIS Only Watch

LOUIS MOINET – METROPOLIS - Only Watch 2017

 

METROPOLIS ONLY WATCH

From Jules Verne to the Little Prince, and from Georges Méliès to Neil Armstrong, the Moon embodies all the dreams and challenges of humankind. And for its first contribution to Only Watch, Louis Moinet has reached across 380,000 km to our lunar satellite, so as to offer children a brighter future.

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“We thought long and hard about how best to reach for the Moon and help children suffering from myopathy,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller, Ateliers Louis Moinet’s CEO and Creative Director. “The legacy left by Mr Louis Moinet himself helped guide us in the creation of this timepiece. As a watchmaker, he was one of the pioneers of observational astronomy. This piece demonstrates our commitment to Only Watch – and also offers a fitting tribute to an outstanding inventor and committed humanist.”

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For its first contribution to the Only Watch charity auction, Ateliers Louis Moinet has summoned the very essence of its knowhow. The firm has produced a unique timepiece, “Metropolis for Only Watch” – a most worthy successor to Mr Louis Moinet’s own Compteur de Tierces from 1816, the first chronograph in history, which was also used for observational astronomy.

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For its first participation in Only Watch, Louis Moinet literally reaches for the Moon on behalf of research into muscular dystrophy. This one-of-a-kind creation, exclusively designed for the prestigious charity auction, features the world’s first ever hammered gilded watch face adorned with authentic lunar meteorite fragments.

Estimate:
CHF 17,000 - 27,000
15,000 - 24,000 €
18,000 – 28,000 $

Only Watch Partnership

Now presenting its 7th Edition, Only Watch is a biennale auction of unique timepieces that has raised over 25 million Euros to date. Under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco and following the initiative of Luc Pettavino, President of the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, Only Watch is an international watchmaking charity event.

All of the funds collected from the sale of the watches are donated in their entirety to scientific and medical research. The exclusive watches will embark on a world tour starting in the charity’s hometown of Monaco, and then continuing to Asia, the Gulf, the United States and Europe, before the final auction in Geneva on November 11th 2017.

WHERE CAN I SEE
THE ONLY WATCH COLLECTION
BEFORE THE AUCTION?

• HONG KONG: 23-24 OCTOBER

Christie’s Hong Kong
22nd Floor Alexandra House
18 Chater Road Central, Hong Kong
Opening hours: 10:30 am - 5:30 pm
Contact: Cissy Ngan
cngan@christies.com
(+852) 2978 6711

• TAIPEI: 26-27 OCTOBER

Christie’s Taiwan
13f, Suite 1302, No. 207, Sec. 2,
Tun Hua South Road, Taipei 106
Opening Hours: 11 am - 6 pm
Contact: Teresa Hsu
thsu@christies.com
(+886) 223 220 008

• NEW YORK: 29-30 OCTOBER

Christie’s New York
20 Rockefeller Plaza,
New York, NY 10020
Opening hours: 10 am - 6 pm
Contact: Elisa Catenazzi
ecatenazzi@christies.com
(1)212 636 2329

• LOS ANGELES: 1-2 NOVEMBER

Westime Sunset
8569 Sunset Boulevard
West Hollywood, CA 90069, USA
Opening hours: 10 am - 6 pm
Contact: Laura Q. Hughes
laura@westime.com
(+1) 310.205.5555

• GENEVA: 9-11 NOVEMBER

Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues
Quai des Bergues 33
1201 Geneva Switzerland
Opening hours: 10 am - 6 pm
Contact: Charles-Henri Gounod
cgounod@christies.com
+41 (0)22 319 17 26


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: LM-45.10.30

Model name: METROPOLIS Only Watch

Movement
Automatic movement Calibre: LM31
Close to its edge, between 8 o’clock and 11 o’clock, Louis Moinet reveals the piece’s beating heart: an in-house movement, the LM31 caliber. Above the visible escapement, a small seconds hand glides over a sapphire crystal counter, slightly smoked to ensure it is perfectly readable. The hour hands are in blued steel, in the purest fine watchmaking tradition. Featuring Louis Moinet’s signature “dewdrop” tips, they trace a circle around a powder-coated black flange. The watch is wound by means of an oscillating weight decorated with a concentric Clou de Paris pattern and a fragment of lunar meteorite – another finishings first for the Ateliers.
Case
Materiel: 316L Stainless steel
Dimensions: Diameter 43.2mm, thickness 14.80mm
The 43.2 mm diameter steel case reveals the entire underside of the movement through a sapphire crystal caseback, around which the words “Pièce Unique – Only Watch” are engraved.
Dial
The piece sports a gold-plated dial, for which the firm has performed another first in terms of decoration: its face is first gilded – and then hand-punched to form lunar ‘craters’.
And to complete the metaphor, Ateliers Louis Moinet has filled these craters with genuine fragments of lunar meteorites.
By combining both its artisanal skill with dials and its expertise in the craftsmanship of stones and meteorites – now one of the firm’s hallmarks – Ateliers Louis Moinet has produced a uniquely beautiful sidereal work featuring amazing miniature painting.
Bracelet
The Metropolis Only Watch comes with a hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather strap.
Folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lys” motif.

• Limited Edition: Exclusively Unique Piece for – Only Watch 2017

Presentation box
Louis Moinet book

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Moritz Grossmann – TEFNUT Twist Gold

Moritz Grossmann – TEFNUT Twist Gold 2017

Moritz Grossmann presents the new strap winder

The TEFNUT Twist with the Grossmann strap winder makes it possible to wind the watch in no time.

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Grossmann's watchmakers fulfilled a long-standing wish when they created the new winding mechanism for the TEFNUT. The quest for a robust alternative to the conventional crown winder culminated in an ingeniously simple solution. The Grossmann strap winder allows the watch to be wound with turns of the strap attachment located at 6 o'clock in the case. It's fast and works even with gloves or freshly applied nail polish. It takes some dexterity to wind a watch by its crown, but the strap offers a big enough surface for a firm grip. With just a few back-and-forth movements, the watch can be fully wound. The process is very comfortable and a real advantage especially for small watches.

Calibre 102.2

The Grossmann strap winder necessitated extensive modifications of the calibre 102.2. It is based on the calibre 102.1 and has a compact diameter of 26 mm. To create the strap winder, a rotatable strap attachment was integrated in the case at 6 o'clock. It converts turns of the strap into winding torque via a toothed stem.

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The movement is again designed as a pillar calibre. A separately removable winder module incorporates all of the strap winder functions. The escape wheel and the pallet lever are mounted on a separate cock which simplifies the removal of the individual escapement parts. The size of the escape wheel cock was minimised to keep the view of the escapement as uncluttered as possible.

Grossmann strap winder and handsetting mechanism

A very ingenious mechanism transfers the force needed to tension the mainspring from the winding stem in the case at 6 o'clock via a wheel train – which is visibly arranged on the movement – to the mainspring barrel. A special bevel gear pair establishes the connection between the inclined winding stem and the horizontally aligned movement. While winding, the robust strap transmits ample power which is transformed into speed. A backstop ratchet allows bidirectional winding. Only very few twists of the strap are needed to fully wind the watch.

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Since the strap winder gear ratio is not suitable for handsetting, the winding and setting functions were separated in the TEFNUT Twist. As usual, the hands are set with the crown, which in this case is in the less exposed 4 o'clock position.

Stopwork

Since the winding stem could turn with the strap while the watch is being worn, the backstop tolerates up to 20° of angular deflection without causing the stop click to instantly engage the stem. The ratchet wheel has only eight teeth, so the stopwork cannot be overloaded when very fast winding movements are performed. In the calibre 102.2, a mainspring with a bridle – commonplace in self-winding watches – prevents damage that could be caused by excessive force. The bridle contacts the inside of the mainspring barrel and resists an amount of frictional torque that as a rule is 10% higher than the maximum torque of the spring. So when the mainspring is fully wound, turning the crown is met with resistance but does not lurch.

The oscillator with stop seconds

The Grossmann balance for the TEFNUT calibres is clearly smaller than in the larger ATUM and BENU movements. It is designed for a high moment of inertia with minimal mass and, beyond the mass and poising screws, offers convenient precision adjustment options.

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The stop-seconds mechanism is activated when the setting crown is pulled. A spring firmly attached to the main plate presses against the safety roller and thus prevents inadvertent contact with the polished outer surface of the balance-wheel rim or maladjustment of the delicate poising screws.  The spring is controlled by a linkage-type slide that for the strap winder is connected directly with the arresting spring and is thus uncoupled from the winding motion.

Case and versions

The form factor of the TEFNUT Twist was modified to accommodate the strap winder. Its bezel and the striking strap attachments please the eye with balanced proportions. With the seconds subdial at 7 o'clock and the setting crown at 4 o'clock, the visual focus is subtly shifted in the direction of the strap winder. Depending on the version, the strap bars of the prominent attachments are adorned with precious stone cabochons or gold screws.

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The TEFNUT Twist with the strap winder comes in three versions: "Fancy", "Classic", and "Gent" with rose-gold and white-gold cases. All versions are fitted with nodal hands that are of course manually crafted and annealed to a brown-violet hue to match the numerals. Their slenderness is a unique expression of pure watchmaking artistry.

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The TEFNUT Twist "Classic" projects a balanced combination of rare beauty and superb functionality. A centred guilloche pattern with the numerals of the raised hour circle and the crisply detailed minute scale project suave symmetry. Positioned at 7 o'clock, the seconds subdial adds an endearing accent. Full scales assure precise readings of minutes and seconds. Elegant Arabic numerals round out the personality of the classic wristwatch.

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The TEFNUT Twist "Fancy" is a high-end jewellery watch with a multi-faceted face. The main dial and the seconds subdial are framed by white brilliant-cut diamonds. Mother-of-pearl facing and the radially guilloched passepartout visually highlights the off-centre seconds display. The scythe-shaped hour display attracts attention with five vibrantly styled numerals on a mother-of-pearl background. Precious-stone cabochons grace the crown and the strap bars of the precious ladies' watch.

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The TEFNUT Twist "Gent" exemplifies reduction to the essence. As in the TEFNUT 36, the dial already reveals the perfect face of a classic precision timekeeping instrument. Its bright silvery surface highlights the succinctly drawn indications for the hours, minutes, and seconds. The case alone, with the crown at 4 o'clock and the strap attachments discreetly terminated with four gold screws, quickly reveal that the watch is endowed with the Grossmann strap winder.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Versions: TEFNUT Twist

Model: TEFNUT Twist Classic
Reference    MG-000951
Case    750/000 rose gold
Dial    Argenté
Hands     Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

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Reference    MG-001057
Case    750/000 white gold
Dial    Argenté
Hands     Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

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Model: TEFNUT Twist Fancy

Reference    MG-001165
Case    750/000 rose gold
Dial    faced with mother of pearl, set with 128 brilliant-cut diamonds
Hands     Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

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Reference    MG-001164
Case    750/000 white gold
Dial    faced with mother of pearl, set with 128 brilliant-cut diamonds
Hands     Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

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Model: TEFNUT Twist Gent

Reference    MG-001167
Case    750/000 rose gold
Dial    Argenté
Hands     Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

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Reference    MG-001166
Case    750/000 white gold
Dial    Argenté
Hands     Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue


Technical data

Movement
Manufacture calibre 102.2, manually wound, adjusted in five
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 26.00 mm, height: 4.2 mm
No. of parts:    200
No. of jewels:    19, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement:    Lever escapement
Oscillation system
Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws,
Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry
Balance:    Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve:    48 hours when fully wound
Functions
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds
Special features
Rapid winding with rotatable strap attachment at 6 o'clock; winding via bevel gear set and winding transmission with backstop ratchet; stopwork with saw-tooth wheels; mainspring with bridle; subsidiary seconds at 7 o'clock; handsetting via crown at 2 o'clock; shock-resistant balance with inertia and poising screws; flat balance spring, impulse pin attached to rim; balance staff with an integrated space-saving single safety roller instead of the conventional double roller; index adjuster with micrometer screw; plate movement with 3/5 plate; frame pillars and separately removable winder module; frame parts in untreated German silver; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; stop seconds at the safety roller when the crown is pulled
Case
Three-part, precious metal

• Rose Gold
• White Gold

Operating elements:     Crown in 750/000 gold at 4 o'clock for setting the time
Case dimensions
Diameter: 36.0 mm, height: 9.64 mm
Dial
Argenté, faced with mother of pearl, set with 128 brilliant-cut diamonds
Hands:    Manually crafted, in steel or stainless steel
Crystal and display back    Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator strap with prong buckle in precious metal

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PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Rainer Kern - Leiter Kommunikation
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
rainer.kern@grossmann-uhren.com
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