Wednesday, July 27, 2016

ETERNA – 1856 Skeleton Special Edition

















ETERNA1856 Skeleton Special Edition NEW

Skeleton 1856 - celebrates the transparency of time

The genius of Albert Einstein was recently confirmed once again when physicists demonstrated that space, time and matter all interact with one another across the universe. With elucidation of such a complex field of science, wouldn’t granting similar transparency to a watch owner be a modest tribute to the father of General Relativity? Eterna is promoting this achievement by a skeleton timepiece through a limited edition collection of three versions of 160 pieces, also honoring the company’s 160th anniversary. It is adorned with a 3902M mechanical manual-winding movement produced by Eterna. The very classic look, a meticulously designed cased and the precision of the skeleton dial make this timepiece a knowledgeable exercise in style – uniting history and technology.

Since space and time are inseparable, the company’s desire was to illustrate this principle of astrophysics in a stunning watchmaker’s interpretation. Showing the flow of time trapped in the case explains the principles of vacuum, transparency and matter and shows time as it is measured, as it is counted.... the skeleton watch reveals a part of the movement structure and unveils the mechanical nature of time.


History, creation and design

The history of watchmaking has proven that nothing is created from a tabula rasa, or a blank plate, and that memories and voices of models past always have their say. In this case, we make claim to the iconic Eterna Matic “Skeleton” from 1991 which in turn was inspired by designs from the 1950s. 

Yet this tribute is a creation in its own right. Most importantly, the designer wanted to revive the creative act which has always guided human ingenuity: drawing by hand. This timepiece was created in its entirety on graph paper, in continuing with a tradition cherished by the company. 


The simplicity of a classic case

The case, classic in its round form, features extremely clean and balanced proportions, with delicately convex sides and is endowed with subtly cambered two-step lugs, creating an especially elegant profile.  The sapphire crystal is set in a light metal return which emphasises the curved gentleness of the watch face. The winder is notched and decorated appropriately with the five-ball motif of the Eterna logo, a reminder of the self-winding movement rotor balls invented by the company.  The polished steel finish of the set perfectly complements the proportions of the case.

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The mechanics of time for all to see: a watch dial as a masterpiece

The dial provides a particular flavour to this exceptional timepiece. The movement stretches out over the entire surface: the parts of the mechanism are arranged with extreme finesse in a seemingly complex system. The winding mechanism, barrel, mechanisms, Swiss escapement, pendulum or regulator become a riddle and read like an abstract and radiant composition.  The watchmaker is an artist playing with cut-outs and notched or perforated forms; he adds a chromatic tone to this miniature musical score by contrasting the anthracite treatment (NAC), gold and silver-plated metal of machined parts and the rubies.

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A light and narrow bright bezel around the edge of the dial accompanies the hour markers. Two versions are available: one with twelve numbers in black matte, the other with simple metal points. Finally, the dauphine hands, a form repeated often at Eterna as a signature of the company, accentuate the set. Taking up nearly the entire area of the case, they play a role in animating the graphic shapes of the mechanism, while the delicate curvature of the seconds hand softens the contrast effect.  Two versions are also available here in black and metal matte, to match the hour markers.

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In respect of the Janus Principle, the movement is visible from the back of the case, adorned with a sapphire crystal which lets you experience the beating of the mechanism and admire the arrangement of the forms and materials.


A totally unprecedented bracelet

The bracelet adds a particularly sophisticated tone to this remarkable timepiece. Initially used for furniture elements by artisanal craftsmen, woven leather has been transposed into a bracelet, in the tradition of Italian tanners.  Available in dark brown, black or light brown, it perfectly complements the materials and colours of the watch. Each colour version of the bracelet will be produced in a limited edition collection of 160 pieces.

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The 3902M movement, from the Calibre 39 family

Developed by Eterna, the 3902M movement is a manual winding model; this provides for relatively small thickness of the case and considerably contributes to the volume balance of the watch [42 mm diameter and 10.5 mm thickness]. It boasts a high power reserve of 65 hours.

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The movement is derived from the famous Calibre 39, one of the greatest recent innovations of the company. No less than 88 different movement versions can be developed on the basis of this singular and specific design. The basic calibre, in its most simple version with manual winding and fitted with minute and second hands, owes its remarkable versatility to a unique modular concept. Additional components and subassemblies can be integrated easily and efficiently. In addition to its unequalled versatility, the enormous potential of the movement lies in its standardised production and optimised assembly which guarantees the superb quality of the movement.

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Technical specifications

Model: 1856 Skeleton Special Edition

Reference: 7770.41.49.1382 Stainless steel ∅ 42
 Three-hands, black calf braided leather Limited Edition
Reference: 7000.41.10.1410 Stainless steel ∅ 42
Three-hands, brown calf braided leather Limited Edition

Movement:
Calibre Maison Eterna 3902 M,
power reserve 65h,
28’800 A/h, 20 jewels,
1 ball bearing
Case:
Polished stainless steel, case back with screws down, sapphire crystal opening
∅ 42.00 mm/10.30 mm
Screw locked down.
Dial:
  • Anthracite with black arabic numbers
  • Light silver with trapezoidal index
Reflector
Oplain with black arabic numbers
Functions: Hour, minute, second
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Strap: Black calf braided leather, pin buckle

Limited Edition of 160 pieces.

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Eterna SA
Schützengasse 46 
• CH-2540 Grenchen
• Tel. +41 (0)32 654 72 52
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Eterna.com

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

LINDE WERDELIN – OKTOPUS Reef


LINDE WERDELINOKTOPUS Reef Double Date Engraved Rose Gold & Titanium - Unique Piece NEW

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In a special project, Linde Werdelin have collaborated with artist Johnny Dowell (Instagram: KingNerd; Twitter: JohnnyKingNerd) to create a new piece. Johnny Dowell, an established and talented engraver, approached Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin to propose he do something with a Linde Werdelin watch.

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The result: we sent him an Oktopus Double Date Rose Gold; he sent back the Oktopus Reef.

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By trade, Dowell is a gun engraver, following in the footsteps of an uncle, a gun maker. He learned his engraving craft 14 years ago, a five-year learning period.

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Since then he has been plying his trade at one of Britain’s most prestigious gun engravers, later beginning to work on jewellery and, most recently, watches.
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In Johnny’s own words:
"I must admit doing this Oktopus Reefproject has been the most fun just because I had a lot more space to manoeuvre with regards to design and drawings. Morten and Jorn were quite happy for me to put my own style into it. I had a lot more freedom compared with other projects I’ve worked on. It was quite satisfying to transfer the drawings I’d put in the original templates onto the watch", said Johnny Dowell.

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 [Johnny “KingNerd” Dowell examining the Oktopus Reef.]

"I played around with ideas for a few months – drawings, layout, and case parts. There was a lot of back and forth between myself and Morten in that time. Being an Oktopus, a dive watch, we always thought the design would have something to do with the sea. We played with ideas for a while until Morten said ‘let’s do corals and bubbles to create an underwater diving effect."

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 [Oktopus Reef bezel with engraved octopus tentacles.]

"The bezel was not originally involved. Morten sent another template through with the concept of the octopus and I brought it to life with my own sketches. I wanted to create movement in the engraving, having the tentacles turning and twirling, showing the suckers underneath."

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"The engraving process took up to 100 hours, from planning the layout onto the watch to engraving and finally creating the black effect."

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"The most challenging part was working with Grade 2 Titanium. I had to order a piece to practice on, to feel how hard it was. It’s probably the hardest material I’ve cut. On the other hand, the sides of the watch are all flat rather than curved, which makes it lovely to work with. Its facets providing the best canvases. It works better visually, you can see more of the detail that way", said Johnny Dowell.

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"The details are created with a very fine cut done under a microscope or magnifying loop – this takes the longest time. It takes a lot of focus and patience. It’s a painstakingly long process."

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"The Oktopus Reef is a one-off piece. There may be future engraved versions of our current collection, but using different bases or with a different design due to the hand-engraved nature of the work. As such, there is only one piece available to buy on our website, on a first-come basis."

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Morten Linde also talks about the Oktopus Reef in the video below:



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Technical Specifications

Model: OKTOPUS Reef

Case
Outer Case: Three-part case construction; 18K rose gold (5N) and titanium grade 2; satin, polished and microbillé finishing.
Engraved with coral-and-bubbles scene by Johnny "KingNerd" Dowell
Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective on the inside
Crown: Titanium; screw-down; microbillé and rough circular satin finish; engraved with an octopus icon.
Back Case: Titanium; engraved with a multi-layer octopus motif; microbillé and circular satin finish
Bezel: Rose gold; satin on top surface; polished facet.
Titanium screws; black tension discs.
Dimensions: 44mm (w) x 46mm (l) x 15mm (h)
Movement
Linde Werdelin-modified Dubois Dépraz calibre 14580
Power reserve: 44 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800vph (4Hz)
Jewels: 23
Dial
Five-layer skeletonised dial.
Réhaut and top dial: black, circular satin finish.
Lower dial: black, circular Côte de Genève finish.
Hands in rose gold; satin finish, cool grey Luminova.
Large numerals 3, 6 and 9 in gold Luminova with black frames.
Hour and minute indexes, logo and logotype in cool grey Luminova.
Double Date.
Skeletonised date wheels visible at 12 o’clock.
Titanium wheels treated with rose gold.
Water Resistance: 300m
Strap
Interchangeable natural rubber strap in black, with DLC-coated titanium ardillion buckle.

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www.LindeWerdelin.com