Tuesday, January 26, 2016

SPEAKE-MARIN – Diamond MAGISTER Dong Son Tourbillon

















SPEAKE-MARIN –  J Class Diamond MAGISTER Dong Son Tourbillon Red Gold NEW

The Grand Diamond Magister Dong Son Tourbillon features an 18K red gold dial intricately etched with a motif inspired by ancient Dong Son bronze drums inspired by the prehistoric bronze drums of the ancient Dong Son people of Vietnam. Polished bevels lead the eye towards the animated 60-second tourbillon. The Diamond Magister Dong Son is a unique piece in series of 8 tourbillon watches with this design. The meticulously detailed dial is complemented by the drum-like Speake-Marin Piccadilly case in 18k red gold.

In addition to the signature Piccadilly case, the Dong Son Tourbillon possesses other quintessential Speake-Marin qualities including sculpted heat-blued hands, finely finished movement and fluted crown, here set with a scintillating diamond.

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Dong Son drums are bronze drums crafted by the Dong Son culture in the Red River Delta of northern Vietnam between 600 BC and the 300 AD. The Dong Son people were highly- skilled bronze casters and their drums – of which the sides and top surface were usually decorated with geometric patterns and scenes depicting daily life – are considered to represent an artistic level that very few cultures of the time could match.

The beautiful hand-finished tourbillon rotating at 6 o’clock is framed superbly by its steel guard. The eye-catching, highly polished tourbillon bridge is made from Durnico steel, chosen for its superior strength.

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The tourbillon has played an important role in the story of Speake-Marin. The first timepiece to bear the Speake-Marin name was the Foundation Watch, a hand-made pocket watch. The watchmaker’s topping tool wheel motif in the Speake-Marin logo, which first appeared in the tourbillon cage of the Foundation Watch, can also be seen in the tourbillon cage of the Dong Son Tourbillon.

Peter Speake-Marin says: “The tourbillon is one of the elements that I love most about watchmaking because of the animation it brings to the dial. It shows time moving in a way that a minute-repeater or grande sonnerie can’t offer.”

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The Dong Son Tourbillon’s visually-arresting blued steel hands are also designed in the same style as the hands of the Foundation Watch, the Rosetta Stone of Speake-Marin. Around the circular-grained periphery of the 18k red gold dial, Roman numerals are first engraved, then lacquered, then circular-grained. The polished gold diamond set bezel frames the dial, just as the circular grained guard ring around the escapement frames the tourbillon.

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Turning the Dong Son Tourbillon over, the movement featuring hand-finishing can be fully appreciated through the display back. On top of the offset mainspring barrel is the noble platinum micro-rotor, its strong and sober aesthetic counter-balanced by the intricate complexity of the tourbillon.

The lower tourbillon cage is supported by a striking paddle-shaped bridge offering clear visual access to the surrounding gears below. The rhodium-finished German silver bridges and movement plates are circular-grained with polished screw heads and countersinks. Technical details are engraved and gilded on the bridges either side of the platinum rotor.

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The Dong Son bronze drum culture

Dong Son drums are bronze drums crafted by the Dong Son culture in the Red River Delta of northern Vietnam between about 600 BC and the third century AD. Weighing up to 100 kilograms, some drums would have required the smelting of between one and seven tons of copper ore. Since the late 17th century, more than 200 such drums have been discovered from eastern Indonesia to Vietnam and parts of southern China.

It is thought that the Dong Son drums were used as musical instruments in festivals, in prayers for rain and for good harvest, in rituals such as weddings and funerals, and for rallying men for war. The sides and top surface of the drums were usually decorated with geometric patterns and realistically inscribed scenes depicting daily life – for example war, animals and boats.

The unique dial of the Dong Son Tourbillon

These traditional patterns and iconography provide the inspiration for the highly-intricate dial motif of the Speake-Marin Dong Son. The Diamond Magister Dong Son dial motif takes its cues from some of the most revered Dong Son drum creations, including the Hoàng Ha drum, Co Loa drum and the most important of all due to its well-preserved nature and intricate decoration, the famous Ngoc Lu drum.




























The top surfaces of these drums are adorned with a central starburst and concentric circles within which are repetitive images of armed warriors and flying egrets as well as geometric hatching.

The dial centre motif of the Dong Son Tourbillon follows a similar pattern to these historical masterpieces, with an outer ring of graceful egrets complemented by an inner ring featuring plumed warriors holding their weapons between the 12 points of the eye-catching starburst. These 12 points also form a neat horological reference for the central hands indicating the hours.
Intricate etching

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It is not only the iconography of the Dong Son drum motif that gives the Dong Son dial its vitality, but also the spectacular precision of the etching in the 1.0mm thick 18k gold dial.

“The precision of the etching to create the Dong Son dial motif was only made possible thanks to an extremely innovative chemical etching process,” says Peter Speake-Marin. “Such an astonishing level of detail couldn’t have been achieved by human hand.”

The precision-etched areas of the red gold dial are 0.3 mm deep, matte finishing emphasises the ‘all red’ dial treatment and provides a stunning image with the circular-grained, red gold motif.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Speake-Marin J Class Diamond Magister Dong Son Tourbillon 18K Red Gold


Features and indications
• Central hours and minutes
• Hand-finished 60-second tourbillon   
• White-lacquered, multi-level dial
• Automatic-winding movement with 950 platinum micro-rotor
• Power reserve 72+ hours
• 42mm Piccadilly case
• Display back
Dial and hands
18k Red gold chemically etched and hand finished "Dong Son" drum motif dial.
• Diamond markers at 3, 9 and 12h.
• Central Speake-Marin signature Foundation hour and minute hands in heat-blued steel
Movement and finishing
Calibre SM3
• Rhodium-finished German silver bridges
• Glucydur balance
• Automatic-winding movement
950 Platinum micro-rotor
• Diameter of rotor: 16.40mm
• Single barrel
• Frequency: 21,600vph / 3Hz
• Power reserve: over 72 hours
• Dimensions: 30.40mm x 5.40mm
• Jewels: 25
• 4N gold-plated bridge engravings:
Twenty Five (25)
Jewels; 60 Second Tourbillon;
Platinum Rotor Mass;
Swiss Made; Speake-Marin Switzerland;
Frequency 3Hz;
72 hour power reserve;
Case and strap
• 42mm
• Iconic Piccadilly case in polished 18K red gold
  • Bezel set with 36 baguette diamonds (2.16 cts).
  • Diamond set crown, round cut diamond (0.2 cts)
• Case comprising 27 components
• Thickness 12mm
• Front and display-back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating
• Case-back circumference engraving: “Speake-Marin – The Piccadilly”   
• Water resistance: 3atm/30m/100ft
• Hand-made, natural alligator strap
Buckle: 
• Pin buckle in 18K red gold

Grand Diamond Magister Dong Son is unique piece in series of 8 watches with this design.

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 Should you need additional information,
feel free to contact our Communications Department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at:+41 21 695 26 56.
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Monday, January 25, 2016

LOUIS MOINET – MEMORIS 200 Aniversari


















LOUIS MOINETMEMORIS Chronograph White Gold 200 Aniversari Limited Edition NEW

Bicentenary of the Chronograph
Louis Moinet lights up the night

Paris, 1816
Louis Moinet invents the chronograph – an artistic and technological masterpiece beating at a
rhythm of 216,000 vibrations per hour, designed to observe the orbits of the planets in the heavens

Geneva, 2016
Louis Moinet lights up the stars by presenting Memoris, the first chronograph-watch, clothed with
light. The first limited edition marks the start of a series of commemorative pieces dedicated to the
bicentenary of the invention of the chronograph


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The “Memoris 200 th Anniversary” uses a fixed graver engraving technique that is unprecedented in the
history of watchmaking. Each star is worked on individually; never before has there been a starry sky
with such a natural sparkle

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Watchmaking art that repurposes guillochage

The “Memoris 200 th Anniversary” can be summed up in three points:
  • A new hour dial – made in enamel for the first time in history of the piece
  • A new mainplate, painted and decorated with star constellations
  • A new translucent flange and counter bridge
The starry back consists of a brass plate coated in a translucent blue. The stars have been created using
an entirely new fixed graver process. Devised by one of Louis Moinet’s craftsmen, this involves
attaching a specially-made lathe to a traditional rose engine (also known as a guillocheuse).
The idea is to combine the power of the rose engine with the precision of a handheld graver. The result
differs from that produced by milling or stamping: while it resembles the effect traditionally associated
with a guillocheuse inasmuch as material is removed, here this is focused on a tiny area with varying
levels of depth – two characteristics that traditional engine turning seeks to avoid at all costs.
What is more, individual stars are all fashioned to feature different angles and depths, so that each
and every one captures as much light as possible. Several fixed graver sessions are required per star.
The process used is unprecedented in watchmaking – and the outstanding result gives the novel
impression that certain stars really are shining.

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New, crystalline transparency

For the flange and counter bridge, Ateliers Louis Moinet have used a revolutionary translucent
material. Its precise makeup, produced by combining a number of composite materials and high-
temperature vacuum moulding, is a closely-guarded secret. It offers a unique advantage that has won
over Ateliers Louis Moinet: it is through-coloured – and yet the same time maintains a certain degree
of transparency.

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Using it in translucent dark blue on the flange of the new Memoris adds an exclusive sense of depth,
whereas an opaque flange would have ‘locked down’ the timepiece.
In its natural state, this material is as just as pure and translucent as crystal, but nowhere near as
fragile, allowing it to be used for the counter bridge, too; and the latter’s ensuing transparency ensures
the wearer can admire the night blue sky – without missing a single star.

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Technical specifications:

Model: MEMORIS 

Collection:  Limited Edition to 20 exemplaires 
Reference:  LM-54.70.20

Movement and finish
Automatic click movement with chronograph function on dial;
hours and minutes off-centre at 6 o’clock.
302-component LM54 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet
Winding: Automatic, bi-directional
Oscillations: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Frequency: 4Hz
Balance wheel: Glucydur, chronometer quality
5 position settings
Lines: 13 ¼
Power reserve: 48 hours
Jewels: 34
Diameter: 30.40 mm
Height: 8.90 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished facets,
diamond-cut chamfers and circular gears with 5N colour finish and straight-line steel.
Features and functions
Monopusher chronograph with column wheel
Chronograph mechanism visible on dial
Hours and Minutes (at 6 o’clock)
Seconds (at 9 o’clock)
60-second chronograph (central hand)
30-minute chronograph counter (at 3 o’clock)
Dial and hands
Chronograph hand, “Monogram” design
Hour & Minute “Gouttes de Rosée”® dew-drop hands, blue-tinted with luminous coating
Rounded enamel dial, diamond cut bead
Hand-painted mainplate, engraved with fixed graver technique
Translucent flange and counter bridge
“Energie Plus” system
Pawl winding mechanism
Pawl winding system: comprises a baseplate and two jewelled pawls
‘Crab claw’ spring mechanism
Gearing: automatic wolf-teeth gear
Ball bearing: 7 Myrox balls (ceramic), diameter: 0.397 mm
Oscillating weight: Dual material, with concentric “Clous de Paris” and “Fleur-de-lis” pattern
Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet®, composed of 52 pieces,
design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angle
Monopusher: “Clous de Paris” pattern
Material: 18K gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Thickness: 15.75 mm
Water resistance: 50 meters
Case back: Fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols
Lugs: Screwed settings (1 black zircon jewel and 3 screws per lug)
Crystals: Two convex sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces
Crown protection: Patent pending
Distance between lugs: 24 mm
Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: 18K gold folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lis” motif, two-strand, black DLC-treated steel
Presentation box
Louis Moinet book

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