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VERDICT 46MM DOUBLE TOURBILLON WITH BLUE SAPPHIRE DIAL FINE WATCHMAKING’S LATEST HIGHLIGHTS
The metallic sapphire dial was first unveiled by Hysek in 2003, but it’s still a relatively new feature in the world of haute horlogerie. This iridescent treatment, when applied to a sapphire crystal dial, will create a tint producing virtually any hue of highlights imaginable, resulting in a cast of subtle color variations for the movement it houses. By pushing the boundaries of this metallizing sapphire technique, Hysek expands its creative universe with the new Verdict Double Tourbillon with Blue Sapphire Dial.
AN UNPRECEDENTED DEVELOPMENT
Back in 2003, Hysek created a sensation with the X-Ray tourbillon, closely followed by the XX-Ray double tourbillon. These pioneering models opened up a unique path alongside traditional sapphire backs, offering a sapphire glass placed on the dial side, complete with a metallic color treatment.
Twelve years later, the fruit of the manufacture’s ongoing research has emerged: the Verdict Double Tourbillon, featuring a blue sapphire dial. Hysek worked for two years on a new process, to give the dials a more pervasive color and add matching highlights to complement the dominant colors. The Verdict Double Tourbillon with its blue sapphire dial is the embodiment of this research, boasting a color range that is now richer and deeper than ever before.
DISTINCTLY ILLUMINATING
The choice of this particular timepiece to benefit from the new treatment was anything but random. On the dial side, the manufacture movement of the watch is revealed in its entirety. Apart from the two tourbillons, the whole upper side of the timepiece is enveloped by the new iridescent sapphire, gracing it with yellow, blue and orange highlights. Together, they enliven every detail of the manufacture’s caliber, carrying the light to the depths of the workings, the polished angles of each bridge, and along every line of the Rose des Vents pattern.
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ABOUT THE VERDICT DOUBLE TOURBILLON
TWICE AS PRECISE AS A TRADITIONAL MOVEMENT
The 46 mm Verdict Double Tourbillon reflects the Hysek Manufacture’s specific knowhow, blending watchmaking and creative audacity. Designed, produced and assembled by Hysek’s master watchmakers, the double tourbillon has more than 331 parts. Independent from each other, both tourbillons are, however, joined together by a central differential, which distributes force evenly to each of the two balances. This mechanism allows regulation of the tourbillons’ speed, and hence the movement’s rate becomes the average of the rate of each tourbillon. In other words, the twin tourbillons double the accuracy of the caliber.
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DOUBLE TOURBILLON, DOUBLE MICRO-ROTOR
To go with its double tourbillon, Hysek added to its movement a double micro-rotor in rose gold and platinum. Smaller than a standard rotor and coupled by a single ceramic ball-bearing, avoiding lubrication of the movement, Hysek’s emblematic mechanism actually maximizes the visibility of the movement while boosting its winding power.
According to Mr. Akram Aljord, Hysek’s CEO, “The HW06, the first ever automatic double tourbillon, is a fantastic way to simultaneously express our bold creativity and technical know-how.”
With further attention to detail, Hysek has endowed the caliber with hand finishings similar to Poinçon de Genève, including a Rose des Vents pattern on the plate.
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Following the inaugural and exclusive edition of eight pieces in 18k rose gold, the Verdict Double Tourbillon is now available in Grade 5 titanium. The sapphire crystal dial and its unpredictable shades offer a pleasing contrast to the interplay of polished and satin-brushed finishes on the case. Hysek’s final touch to complete the overall effect is an opening at one o’clock, providing an easy view of the date.
As for the first edition, just eight of these 46 mm Verdict Double Tourbillon watches are being made in Grade 5 titanium.
The Hysek HW06 caliber has been designed, produced and assembled in-house.
The movement features the first-ever automatic double tourbillon:
o Independent of each other, both tourbillons are coupled by a central differential, which distributes force evenly to each of the two balances.
o This differential thus regulates the speed of each tourbillon.
o The accuracy of the double tourbillon is doubled as a result of the movement’s rate being the average of the rate of each tourbillon.
The double micro-rotor is Hysek’s signature on its automatic calibers.
o Hysek’s double micro-rotor is made of two small oscillating weights. The first one, in 22k rose gold, is placed on the dial side, while the second one, on the back of the movement, is crafted in platinum, a precious and heavy metal chosen for its increased winding potential.
o Both micro-rotors are coupled by a single ceramic ball-bearing, avoiding lubrication thus improving long term performance.
o One of the key advantages of the double micro-rotor is esthetic. Indeed, it does not obstruct half of the movement, like standard rotors do, but does offer the chance to discover the movement's peerless fine finishing.
o With an autonomy of 45 +/- two hours, the double tourbillon can be fully wound in less than three hours.
The date is displayed at one o’clock and can be adjusted by a push button positioned at two o’clock.
In its department dedicated solely to movement decoration, Hysek’s HW06 caliber is finished according to the highest haute horlogerie standards. Using a mix of traditional techniques and modern methods, Hysek’s craftsmen have given to this movement a contemporary look, combining the brand’s hallmark Rose des vents compass rose finish on the dial side with a more classical Côte de Genève decoration visible through the sapphire case back.
The HW06 is made of 331 components and 44 jewels.
Frequency: 28’800 VpH
CASE
The 46mm diameter round case of the Verdict Double Tourbillon is proposed in Grade 5 titanium. An 18k rose gold version is also available.
The open-worked sapphire dial reveals the various movement’s components. Thanks to a specific process that took two years to perfect, the iridescent sapphire graces the timepiece with yellow, blue and orange highlights.
The sapphire crystal is treated with anti-reflection coatings on both sides.
The timepiece is water resistant to 30m.
The Verdict Double Tourbillon comes with a fold-over buckle and a black alligator strap that subtly underlines its timeless elegance.
The titanium Double Tourbillon is proposed in a limited edition of eight numbered pieces, Hysek’s lucky number.
§ Price under request Product Year:2015
-------------------------------- MANUFACTURE HYSEK SA
Chemin de la Vignette 1
CH-1167 Lussy-sur-Morges Phone+41 21 804 90 90 Fax+41 21 803 19 29
marketing@hysek.com
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TheEMC Pistol, its birth attended by top craftsmen
TheEMC watch, constructed by theURWERK company, is a milestone in luxury watchmaking as the first and only mechanical watch in which the rate can be checked electronically at any time simply by pressing a button.
The originality and ingenuity of the EMC concept have been widely acclaimed. The 2014 Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie awarded the EMC two first prizes in the “exceptional mechanism” and the “innovation” categories, while the watch earned Felix Baumgartner the title of Watchmaker of the Year in Hong Kong. Just as important for the URWERK team are the plaudits received for the EMC from Mr Philippe Dufour, the recognised virtuoso of high-grade watchmaking.
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For this last version of the EMC — the Pistol — URWERK has brought together the leading craftsmen and the most skilled hands to do justice to these five unique watches. Florian Güllert was responsible for the engraving, Joséphine and Sylviane took care of the leather work for the strap while URWERK’s artistic director, Martin Frei, and master-watchmaker, Felix Baumgartner, have unstintingly given of their best to create this watch. The EMC Pistolis the fruit of this exceptional alliance.
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Florian Güllert
The first thing you notice when you meet Florian Güllert are his hands — large, thin and well manicured hands.
Florian Güllert specialises in engraving firearms. He is a painstaking worker who loves his craft, proving that enthusiasm can coexist with meticulous care. For 15 years he has demonstrated his talent by transforming shotguns and handguns into works of art. Freehand chasing and engraving leave his mark on metal in scrolls and letters.“Engraving is a way of capturing light,” he explains “It bares the metal and creates zones of shade. The metal is forcibly worked and astonishingly that is what makes it beautiful.”
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This 43-year-old master-engraver set up his workshops at Klagenfurt on the shores of the Wörthersee lake in Austria. He started his career as a gunsmith, graduating in 1995 from the Ferlach technical college. But he soon changed track. It was no longer the guns themselves that obsessed him; they merely became the canvas for his art. “You can compare engraving on metal with calligraphy, while hammer peening creates such subtle nuances that they cannot be reproduced exactly. Each mark you make is unique and definitive. That is the beauty of craftsmanship,” he confides.
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Four or five years ago, one of his clients mentioned URWERK. Curiosity led him to the website. When the watch company contacted him in 2014, he immediately agreed to accept a commission. His only reservation was time; his order book was full and his agenda overloaded. But the desire remained. He received the blueprints of the EMC case and started his research.“I had to find a pattern that contrasted with the very mechanical and technical aspects of the object. I was looking for scrolls and arabesques that would break up the rectilinear architecture of theEMC. It was a rather unusual job for me, because the surface that you can decorate on a watch is restricted. You have to get it right and find a pattern that can be appreciated with an unaided eye.”There was another difficulty: the steel used in the EMCcase turned out to be so hard that special tools had to be found. “But the method doesn’t change,” he concludes. “The actions of my hands are the same as those of all engravers throughout the ages. This is what we have in common with fine watchmaking: tradition is at the centre of our craft.”www.handgraveur.at
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Martin Frei
Martin Frei’s mother introduced him to world of art and his father, an astrophysicist, turned his gaze towards the stars. Today he’s the artistic director of URWERK, the watchmaking company that he co-founded.
Martin Frei constructs watches on paper, painting them in gouache before they assume their mechanical shape.“What I enjoy about our working sessions at URWERK is listening toFelix and the R&D team solving the technical problems of a watch that only exists as a rough sketch,”he declares.
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For theEMC Pistol, Martin Frei envisaged a watch that displayed contrasting styles. The minimalist design of the top part of the case dissolves into raised engravings. The smooth and satin-finished surfaces of the upper part highlight the decorative work of the lower section. “This abrupt change in style illustrates our intentions: we wanted an object that was both solid and fluid. OurEMC, which looks uncluttered, gains new strength from this almost baroque decoration. The engraving is similar to that on collectors’ firearms. It is sparing, it doesn’t dominate, yet it provides the final touch that creates surprise — the wow effect.”
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The very distinct design of the EMC derives from the principle that form follows function. “TheEMC is a mechanical watch fitted with a hand-cranked electric generator, a capacitor and a system that monitors its rate. It took me some time to combine all that into a watch that sits comfortably on the wrist. When we first demonstrated the EMC idea, the module was in its trial container — a plastic box 15cm long and 10cm wide and as thick as a brick. Miniaturising the components and maximising the space by making full use of every cubic millimetre was an exacting task that we undertook with pleasure. Every aspect of theEMC constitutes an exploit. Disguising the constraints and making it look easy is what we’re good at,” he concludes. www.urwerk.com
Joséphine Morf and Sylviane
Welcome to the little workshops of the Place Simon-Goulart in Geneva’s old watchmaking district of Saint Gervais. Hidden in an attic you find the Portalès leather company, presided over by its owner, Joséphine Morf, and Sylviane, her nimble-fingered worker.
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These two ladies are well known in watchmaking circles for their skill. Their speciality is the high-grade leather strap, the exceptional adjunct to outstanding watches.
“We make each item more or less on an individual basis and for very small series ordered by watchmakers and manufacturers of luxury leather goods,”Joséphine explains. “URWERK’s order at first took us by surprise,”she adds. “They wanted a part of the skin that we very seldom use because it is in relief. The straps we made are truly three dimensional with a series of small ridges.”
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The strap for the EMC Pistol is certainly unconventional. Its manufacture is entirely in the hands of Sylviane who deftly manipulates edge bevellers, mechanical blades and cutters.“We have made five unique straps, which in my view are among the finest created by our company.”
Société Anonyme de Maroquinerie de Pourtalès, Geneva
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Felix Baumgartner
Felix Baumgartner, the son and grandson of watchmakers, founded URWERK with Martin Frei and has presided over the fortunes of their company for the past 18 years. The EMC is his Holy Grail, his dream come true and the watch with which he renewed his skills and demonstrated that his commitment to fine watchmaking is as strong as ever.
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The EMC that he conceived is first of all based on URWERK’s proprietary movement — a chronometer movement with an original balance wheel and twin barrels. It’s also a crazy idea: an electronic device that oversees the proper operation of the watch by monitoring the sprung balance at its heart. The result is a mechanical timepiece that can be adjusted by its owner to achieve the best possible timekeeping performance.“Our aim was to give each EMC owner the information that hitherto could only be supplied by a watchmaker using sophisticated equipment. To achieve this we had to take a fresh look at the mechanism and redesign it from scratch to provide information that could be seen and analysed,”Felix Baumgartner explains.
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The movement for this watch was conceived, developed, manufactured and decorated in URWERK’s workshops. It’s a movement with a classic finish that contrasts with its futuristic performance. “We have finished it in the tradition of fine watchmaking, with Geneva stripes, snailing, shot-blasted and brushed finishes, because we have broken the rules elsewhere,” he declares. “One of the real joys of watchmaking is to enhance the material one works with,” he adds. “I started my apprenticeship at my father’s workbench where I stripped the dials and and wheels of old clocks. It was an endless task, but it made me proud. My father had an eagle eye that detected the smallest part that wasn’t up to standard. He gave me a sense of perfection.”
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The three main features of theEMC concept
The EMC, a mechanical watch
The EMC has the aspect of a control panel with four separate dials. Prominent is the seconds dial at 2 o'clock. This is one of the key elements of the EMC that serves as the benchmark of its rate and accuracy. To its left at 10 o'clock, the rate is indicated in seconds a day. Below, at 8 o'clock is the 80-hour power-reserve indicator. The hours and minutes are shown conventionally by hands at 5 o'clock — a new departure for URWERK. The EMC’s movement can be seen at the back through a sapphire-crystal glass.
The movement was designed, developed and made in URWERK’s workshops. It was rated in Geneva and complies with the most stringent quality standards. The movement was tested in five positions over a 30-day cycle to meet the highest standards of a precision watch. Its proven intrinsic qualities rest on the following features:
The balance was made from ARCAP, a nickel alloy chosen by URWERK for its anti-magnetic and non-corrosive properties. The originality of this balance is apparent at a glance. Its linear structure was precisely calculated to make it aerodynamic and reduce air friction. This enables it to retain an optimal amplitude.
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Its power source takes the shape of two mainspring barrels mounted in series on the same arbor. The double barrel ensures a stable and linear power supply while providing 80 hours or running time.
A screw to change the rate accessible on the outside of the watch enables a precise adjustment of the fast/slow index that alters the effective length of the balance spring.
The EMC– a really smart watch
An electronic device had to be perfected to monitor the EMC’s mechanical movement. Olivier Evalet, an enthusiastic software engineer became involved in this remarkable project. “Our idea was to exploit light or optical precision to determine the rate of a mechanical movement. We can thus measure the rate to an xactitude of less than 10 microseconds.”
The EMC’s brain thus consists of:
An optical sensor works with the balance wheel.
The sensor consists of a light source and a receiver on either side of the balance. Its job is to record the oscillations of the 28,800v/h balance (4Hz) over a period of three seconds. The measurement is initiated manually by pressing a start button.
An electronic oscillator at 16 million Hz
This is the EMC’s reference device. The performance of the 4Hz mechanical balance is compared with the extremely high frequency of this oscillator to obtain the most precise measurement possible.
Artificial intelligence
This computer can determine the difference (denoted by δ) between the rate of the movement and that of the reference oscillator. Each microsecond of difference between them is expressed as a gain or loss of one second a day of the mechanical movement. Thus a variation of 0.0000014 seconds between each oscillation translates into a variation of a second a day.
A hand-wound generator:
The EMC’s monitoring device (the optical sensor and calculator) derives its energy from a micro-rotor made by the Maxon company, a Swiss firm known for having developed the motor of the Pathfinder module for NASA’s Mars mission.
The EMC, an interactive watch
The EMC’s principle rests of a three-fold objective: to show the effect of outside influences (motion, temperature and pressure) on the balance and spring; to compensate for these influences at source, and to promote an interaction between the watch and its owner.
“By simply pressing a button, you obtain exact data about your EMC,” explains Felix Baumgartner. “That enables you to act directly upon one of the most exhilarating and exciting mechanisms invented by man, the mechanical watch. And to do so with complete security.”
Case Material Titanium and steel Dimensions 43mm width, 51mm length, 15.8mm height Crystal Sapphire crystal Water resistance Pressure tested to 30m / 3ATM Finishing Shot-blasting Decoration Engraving by Florian Güllert Strap Nile crocodile Movement Calibre UR-EMC calibre conceived, developed and manufactured by URWERK Escapement Swiss lever escapement Balance wheel ARCAP P40, linear balance coupled to the optical sensor Frequency 28,800 vph – 4Hz Balance spring Flat Energy source Double mainspring barrels, connected in series Power reserve 80 hours Winding Manual winding Finishing: Côtes de Genève, snailing, shot-blasting; brushing; chamfered screw heads Artificial intelligence Generator: Maxon® generator with manual winding charging super capacitor EMC system: Optical sensor linked to the balance; 16'000'000Hz reference oscillator Indications/functions
Hours; minutes; seconds; rate indicator;
Power reserve; adjustment screw.
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-------------------------------------------- Media contact: Ms Yacine Sar
Telephone: +4122 900 2027
Mobile : +4179 834 46 65
press@urwerk.com
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