Monday, October 5, 2015

MONTBLANC – VILLERET Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Edition


MONTBLANCVILLERET Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky White Gold Limited Edition NEW

Montblanc presented its art of fine watchmaking at the third edition of Watches & Wonders, 
the Haute Horlogerie Exhibition in Asia, 
from 30th of September to 3rd of October 2015.

At the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2015 (SIHH) in Geneva, Montblanc presented its Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky in a warm red gold case with a striking bright dial. The limited collection comprises of just 18 pieces, was a strongly requested piece. Innovation, precision and determination – the same values that guided Vasco da Gama on his historic expedition, drove the pioneering spirit of Montblanc. To honour the explorer’s legacy, the Montblanc master watchmakers created a second timepiece that pays hommage to his exploratory spirit, setting off  hither on the unknown ocean route to India with the stars in the nightsky as their only guide. At Watches & Wonders in Hong Kong, the Montblanc Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition - 18 pieces, which unites a cylindrical tourbillon and a uniquely functional worldtime indication, is now making its first-ever appearance in 18K white gold in a limited edition of 18 pieces telling the story of Vasco da Gama’s navigation through the Nightskies of the hemispheres in a precise yet spectacular way.

The Discoverer
Vasco da Gama
set sail from Lisbon’s Restelo harbour on 8 July 1497 with a small fleet of four ships. His flagship was the nau (carrack) Sao Gabriel with a crew of 60 men. The vessel weighed 120 tonnes, was 27 metres long and 8.5 metres wide, had a draught of 2.3 metres, and could raise a total sail area of 372 square metres. Vasco da Gama’s destination was the coast of India. If his expedition succeeded, he would become the first seafarer to find a southern seaway to India. Nowadays we know that he did indeed succeed. This enabled him to bypass Arabian, Persian, Turkish and Venetian middlemen who had made it extremely expensive for Europeans to import precious stones and valuable spices such as pepper. With this voyage and subsequent expeditions, Portugal fortified its predominance as a seafaring and trading nation. The success of Vasco da Gama’s expedition can ultimately be credited to its commander’s courage, thirst for action, willingness to take risks and, above all, his obsession with precision – a trait that is equally important in fine watchmaking today.

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The fleet reached Saint Helena Bay on the southwest coast of Africa on 4 November 1497. Several days later, the three Portuguese ships sailed in a large arc around the Cape of Good Hope and landed in Mosselbaai on 25 November. Vasco da Gama finally reached India at a point near Calicut on the Malabar Coast on 20 May 1498. For the first time ever, European sailing ships had voyaged to India via a sea route around the southern tip of Africa. Fully laden with a bountiful cargo of precious spices, Vasco da Gama’s fleet began its homeward voyage to Portugal on 8 October 1498. The first ship in his fleet reached its homeland on 10 July 1499. Vasco da Gama himself landed in Lisbon on 9 September, where a triumphal reception was prepared for him.

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With this expedition, Vasco da Gama became the first European to establish a sustainable and safe way to travel from Europe to India and thus built a bridge between the Northern and Southern Hemisphere. His feat connected people’s lives on both hemispheres for centuries, not only geographically but also commercially and culturally. The Montblanc Villeret Tourbillon Geosphères pays homage to this great explorer and likewise builds a bridge between the two hemispheres – on the stage of a wristwatch

Montblanc Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition  18 pieces

As Montblanc’s center of expertise for movement development, the Villeret Manufacture continues to enrich fine Swiss watchmaking with ground breaking innovations. It was Vasco da Gama's drive to discover new worlds and his unswerving courage that inspired Montblanc’s watchmakers to new horological achievements. The Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition - 18 pieces is more than just an intricate watch, it is an eye-catcher with the 47 mm case and the large sophisticated dial. The following functions are provided by the hand-wound calibre MB M68.40: a triple time zone with local time is displayed in the form of hours and minutes; the continually running and independently adjustable display for the home time is presented on a three-dimensional twelve-hour compass rose at “6 o’clock”; and a pair of globes depict the World´s 24 time zones in the Northern and Southern Hemisphere, along with the passage of the days and nights.

The Dial
 
The 18 K gold dial is constructed in various parts and on different levels. Inspired by the two impressive globes, Montblanc’s designers have selected on round shapes and rounded décor. The upper section of the dial, which is night-black and adorned with aventurine, reflects the nightsky and is the perfect backdrop for the tourbillon mechanism with its arcing, convex, polished tourbillon bridge. The lower section of the dial, elaborately finished in dark grey, bears two globes and the home-time indication in the form of the three-dimensional compass rose. The hand that sweeps above this rose to indicate the hours is likewise styled in a “Fleur-de-Lys” shape.

The Globes
 
The two miniature globes illustrate the passage of the days and nights in the northern and southern hemispheres. Engraving and miniature painting on these two halved balls indicate in relief the outlines of the continents, their borders and the oceans that separate them.Their elaborately crafted and finely detailed design also shows the circles of latitude and longitude. The two globes are motionlessly affixed to the movement, while two 24-hour worldtime indicator discs with the day/night display make one revolution per day around them.  
 
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The disc for the northern hemisphere turns clockwise; its counterpart for the southern hemisphere rotates anticlockwise. This arrangement enables the watch’s wearer to view, in the course of a single day, the sunlit halves of the two globes and the halves that are currently turned away from the sun. With the aid of the meridians of longitude, the viewer can read the current time in any desired part of the world by following the 24-hour world-time display on the two discs.

The Compass Rose
 
The continually running and independently adjustable display for the home time at 6 o’clock on the dial of the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition - 18 pieces is inspired by the gigantic marble compass rose at the base of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos. This monument, which commemorates Portuguese discoverers, stands in the civil parish of Belém in Lisbon. Comparable to a miniature sculpture, the watch’s compass rose is composed of four parts, each of which is entirely handmade and manually decorated.

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The Tourbillon
 
Montblanc developed the 281-part hand-wound Calibre MB M68.40 featuring a 91-part tourbillon mechanism with a cylindrical hairspring which guarantees a power reserve of 48 hours.The balance-wheel frequency is 18,000 vibrations per hour, or 2.5 Hz. The moment of inertia, thanks to the 14.5 mm balance wheel, is 59 mg.cm². Today, very few Manufactures still have the necessary expertise to produce balance-wheels and hairsprings. It was only possible for Montblanc to develop a cylindrical balance-spring for the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition - 18 pieces because of the capacity to manufacture both components in the Montblanc Manufacture.

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Unlike their flat counterparts, cylindrical balance springs were regarded as the summum bonum and installed only in the finest and costliest marine chronometers. Valuable ship’s chronometers were indispensable for seafarers because only with the aid of a clock that continued to show the correct time with great accuracy for a lengthy period of time were mariners able to determine their longitude on the high seas. Today too, a cylindrical balance spring continues to embody the utmost precision. Like a conventional balance-spring, a cylindrical balance-spring is a concentrically wound elastic metal wire. However, instead of being wound side by side, at increasing distances from a common centre and all on the same plane, its individual turns are all of equal diameter and are wound one atop the other.

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This eliminates the slight eccentricity of the centre of gravity, which has always been the Achilles’ heel of the conventional balance-spring. The challenges for Montblanc’s watchmakers were to miniaturise this type of balance-spring and to install it in the tourbillon mechanism of a wristwatch. The extremely high degree of in-house fabrication skill at the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret, combined with the expertise accumulated here over many years, enabled these specialists to create more than merely a “simple” cylindrical balance-spring: they further equipped it with two Phillips terminal curves. The upward curvature at each end of the spring significantly improves the regularity of the balance-spring’s “breathing”, thus further reducing the isochronism error. Consequently, in this masterpiece, Montblanc achieved a highly accurate rate.

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Incomparable beauty distinguishes the styling of the doubly curved three-dimensional endless loop of the tourbillon bridge, beneath which the tourbillon’s large cage completes one rotation around its own axis every sixty seconds. For the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition - 18 pieces, Montblanc’s typical tourbillon bridge departs for the first time from its usual planar shape and acquires a convex form. It thus perfectly harmonises with the two globes on the dial. A master watchmaker requires more than seven days to handcraft this distinctive tourbillon bridge completely and give it an absolutely immaculate polished finish.
The Operation
 
The indicators on the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition - 18 pieces can be set via the crown, the visible pusher at 8 o’clock and the inset corrector on the case’s flank at 4 o’clock. After pulling the crown outwards, the user can set the local time and simultaneously adjust the worldtime display along the two globes’ 24-hour scales. The corresponding buttons on the case are used for the fine adjustment of the local time in the centre and the home time on the compass rose at 6 o’clock, which runs along with the local time. Once all indicators have been correctly synchronised, a new local time in a different time zone can be set simply by pressing the push-piece at 8 o’clock. Operating this pusher advances only the hours-hand in single-hour increments. It does not affect the minutes, which are shown from the dial’s centre, nor does it alter the home time at 6 o’clock or the two displays along the globes. When the watch’s owner is travelling, he or she can conveniently read the local time by referring to the hours- and minutes-hands in the centre, check the home time at 6 o’clock and see the time anywhere else in the world by referring to one of the two 24-hour discs around the globes.

The Case
 
The 16¾-line Montblanc calibre MB M68.40 is embedded in a 47-mm-diameter and 15.38-mm-height white gold case. The alligator-skin strapis attached to the watch by four rounded horns that have been thoroughly and lavishly polished by hand.

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The names of 24 cities in the Northern Hemisphere and another two dozen metropolises in the Southern Hemisphere are engraved along with the matching time zones on the back of the case. The limited numbers from 01/18 to 18/18 are engraved on the sapphire crystal in the back of the case.

A Voyage into Unchartered Territories of the Watchmaking World

The pioneering spirit of the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret honours the legacy of one of history’s greatest explorers. For 157 years, Villeret’s master watchmakers have practised traditional Swiss watchmaking with the same combination of innovation, precision and determination that guided Vasco da Gama on his historic expedition.

Uninterrupted and unique artisanal production in strict accordance with traditional Swiss craftsmanship distinguishes Montblanc’s Manufacture in Villeret. Scarcely anywhere else on Earth is impassioned craftsmanship pursued as single-mindedly as it is at the Manufacture in the St Imier Valley. Since 1858, the valley’s artisanal watchmakers have created elaborate mechanical movements from components that they personally crafted step by painstaking step until they achieved the highest quality and the ultimate refinement.

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Now their voyage into uncharted territories of the watchmaking world continues with the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition - 18 pieces, a timepiece with the unprecedented combination of a cylindrical tourbillon and à unique triple-time-zone indication. Strictly limited to eighteen pieces, the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition - 18 pieces is a revolutionary wristwatch that pushes back the boundaries of fine watchmaking with its exceptional performance and spectacular artisanal beauty.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères NightSky Limited Edition

Ident.115053

Movement Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M68.40
Type of movement Hand-wound mechanical movement with one-minute tourbillon and cylindrical hairspring; triple time zone with local-time, home time and worldtime indication
Dimensions 16¾ lines (38.40 mm); height = 10.50 mm
No. of components 281, including 91 for the tourbillon cage
No. of rubies 18
Power reserve Approx. 48 hours
Balance Screw balance, diameter = 14.5 mm, moment of inertia = 59 mgcm²
Frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Hairspring Cylindrical hairspring with double Phillips terminal curves
Tourbillon One-minute tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring
Main plate Rhodium-plated nickel silver with circular graining on both sides
Bridges Rhodium-plated nickel silver with côtes de Genève
Going-train Gold-plated, faceted arms, diamond-polished surfaces
Watch displays
Local time: central hours and minutes in the centre, Home time: hour hand at “6 o’clock”,  
World time: with 24-hour-time-zones for the southern and northern hemisphere second zone time by hand at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring and a unique double infinity hand-crafted bridge in three dimensions
Habillage
Case
18-karat white gold
Crystal Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment on both surfaces
Back 18-karat white gold back with 24 cities of both hemispheres engraved and with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions
Diameter = 47 mm, height = 15.38 mm
Watertightness 3 bar
Dial  18 K gold, upper part with aventurine depicting the nightsky of the southern hemisphere enhancing the Tourbillon Cylindrique and the double infinity slightly curved bridge.
Worldtime indication on two discs with 24-hour time zones with day/night indication revolving around two fixed globes with traditional hand-painted “peinture miniature” for the oceans and engraving for the continents and the meridians showing the Northern hemisphere on the left and the southern hemisphere on the right. Home time indication at “6 o’clock” above a three-dimensional hand-crafted “rose des vents” subdial.
Crown 18-karat White gold crown with Montblanc’s emblem in mother-of-pearl
Pusher Local-time pusher at “8 o’clock” and home-time corrector at “4 o’clock”
Strap Hand-sewn black alligator-skin strap with alligator lining and with a folding clasp made of 18-karat White gold.
Limitation 18 pieces

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Saturday, October 3, 2015

Jaeger-LeCoultre – GEOPHYSIC® True Second®

















Jaeger-LeCoultre GEOPHYSIC® True Second® NEW

Geophysic®,
The milestone collection from Jaeger-LeCoultre

Renowned for its horological mastery and its creative talent, Jaeger-LeCoultre now wishes to share the fruits of its expertise with a broader public. This is why it is introducing an original collection with a pure, uncluttered design, driven by a new Haute Horlogerie calibre encapsulating the inventive spirit of the Manufacture. Geophysic® line reveals its gripping story, so that we can better tell our own.

The first glance reveals a clean-cut design that is the epitome of elegance and equilibrium. Each model in the Geophysic® line features several layers of meaning. It gradually unleashes a powerful and innovative horological content expressed through classic characteristics. This refined and contemporary creation asserts its masculine nature in a number of subtle ways.

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The collection is named after a watch that belongs both to universal history and to the heritage of the Manufacture. In 1958, the International Geophysical Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre created a chronometer for scientists on mission. Capable of withstanding the magnetic fields of the North Pole while losing nothing of its formidable precision, its overriding characteristic was extreme resistance.

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The Grande Maison is now choosing to revive this legendary name in two models blending aesthetic elegance, technical sophistication and 21st century user friendliness: the Geophysic® True Second® and the Geophysic® Universal Time.


Refinement and discernment  

Nothing that Jaeger-LeCoultre does is governed by exclusively external considerations. This is demonstrated by the case of the Geophysic® True Second® watch which measures exactly 39.6 millimetres, an elegant and reassuring diameter confirming its cultural roots in the field of Haute Horlogerie, and the choice of which was determined by a quest to find the perfect size enabling the watch to express perfect harmony.

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Geophysic® explores the subtle nuances of contemporary classicism, reinforced by the traditional hands reflecting the codes of the Vallée de Joux as well as the linear hour-markers. The design of the case in turn reveals another facet of its personality through finishes worthy of the most precious Jaeger-LeCoultre models.

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The lugs do not meet the case middle with a gentle curve, but rather with a decisive angle expressing strength and confidence. Their sides are polished to accentuate their sleek silhouette. In becoming better acquainted with the watch, the observer realises that its bezel slightly overlaps a tiny part of the case and lugs, thereby creating an extremely pure overall aesthetic.

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The case-back is screwed in, like that of the 1958 model, so as to ensure greater water resistance. This flowing visual effect is enhanced by the fact that the eye does not linger on any screws, while the watch features the inherent reliability of a system traditionally used to equip diver’s watches. Finally, the case middle also echoes the inspirational original with its extremely dynamic Super-Luminova®* dots that enable easy read-off even in the dark. The balanced, refined and unostentatious tone is set in subtle touches, leaving plenty of scope for the reactions that this exceptional watch unfailingly provokes.


A new collection gets a new high-precision calibre

The movements driving the Geophysic® collection, automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibres 770 and 772, are synonymous with high precision and mechanical beauty. These calibres called upon the talents of the most highly specialised engineers of the Research & Development division within the Manufacture. The strength of their expertise and their imagination drives their authentic capacity for innovation.

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The latter is in this instance expressed by an atypical balance wheel featuring a non-circular configuration that required lengthy research in order to reduce air friction. Named the Gyrolab®, this device was initially developed in a laboratory version back in 2007 to equip the Master Compressor Extreme Lab 1 watch. It took eight years to transition from this confidential version to one that could be incorporated into an entire watch line. Geophysic® is the first collection to enjoy the full benefits of this key breakthrough and its determining influence on the precision of the watch.

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This precision is also expressed by the true seconds system that causes the seconds hand to move forwards while “beating the second”, meaning by performing a jump every second. This is no ordinary feat for a mechanical movement, and one that does not disturb the smooth running of the watch. True seconds mechanism involves an extremely sophisticated construction whose effectiveness is expressed on the dial by a pleasantly rhythmical reading of the seconds. This specific expertise, which has been mastered by the Maison since the 19th century, testifies to the authentic instrument-worthy nature of the Geophysic®.

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For Jaeger-LeCoultre, mechanical performance is meaningless if it is not matched by beauty. At first glance, the calibre reveals its relationship to the characteristic line of automatic movements from the Grande Maison. The gaze then becomes aware of the more generous volumes, and of the powerful proportions of the bridges. These broad surfaces provide ample space for a forceful interpretation of the Côtes de Genève motif. The infinite time, energy and patience devoted to the finishes of the Geophysic® collection are epitomised in the way this calibre catches the light.

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The remarkable calibres driving the Geophysic® line are the first to feature an oscillating weight – crafted from a single block of solid gold – bearing the ‘anchor’ motif (itself echoing the shape of a escapement lever) that is also the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo. Strategically cut out and more open than a classic weight, it enables the eye to reconstruct the movement that it generously reveals in the course of its rotations.

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These calibres exude a resolutely technical aura, much like a car engine built to ensure optimal performance. They deliver a degree of reliability and precision certified by the rigorous “1000 Hours Control” that Jaeger-LeCoultre is the only Manufacture to implement. Despite the sophisticated nature of these mechanisms, they are both functional and easily adjustable by merely positioning the crown. Here, Jaeger-LeCoultre transposes the philosophy of the namesake historical model into a resolutely contemporary watch.


GEOPHYSIC® TRUE SECOND® WATCH
DISCRETION AND EXCELLENCE

The Geophysic® True Second® radiates the kind of stage presence that is the exclusive preserve of great classics. Its finely grained dial lends added texture and further accentuates the readability of the information provided. The hands and hour-markers stand out clearly against their backdrop. 

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The vibrant, graphic Geophysic® True Second® watch comes in steel or pink gold versions, and is adjusted in an extremely intuitive manner. The crown in its neutral position winds the movement, while position 1 serves to set the jumping hours corresponding to the city where the wearer is currently located, as well as the date, and position 2 controls the hours and minutes.

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The Geophysic® is in all respects an ideal companion for those who are frequently on the move.

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Technical Characteristics

Model: Geophysic® True Second®

References: Steel stainless version: Q801 84 20 model 
References: Pink Gold version: Q801 25 20 model

Movement 
•    Mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 770
•    40-hour power reserve
•    28,800 vibrations per hour
•    275 components
•    36 jewels
•    6.57 mm thick
Dial
•     Silver-toned, grained, applied hour-markers
Hands
•    Baton-type, enhanced with Super-Luminova®
Functions
•    Hours, minutes
•    True seconds
•    Date
Case
•     11.7 mm thick
•     39.6 mm in diameter
•    Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap
•    Alligator leather
o    Pink gold model: pin buckle
   Stainless steel model: folding clasp

* Jaeger-LeCoultre is not owner of the trademark Super-Luminova
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