Thursday, August 13, 2015

BREGUET – Tradition Chronographe Independant 7077















BREGUETTradition Chronographe Indépendant Reference 7077 White Gold

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The chronograph occupies a choice position in watchmaking as a complication in its own right. Measuring elapsed times provides immediate visualisation of the desired function, but making it work is an additional mechanical challenge, because starting a chronograph disturbs the main gear trains.

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To alleviate this problem, Breguet has fitted its new Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 model with two independent trains. The first is the going train for the hours and minutes, regulated by a 3Hz balance and having a power reserve of 50 hours.

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For the chronograph, the second transmission has a 5Hz frequency to ensure more precise readings, in harmony with the one devoted to measuring the passing of time. Breguet’s research into high frequencies shows that a higher rate of oscillations improves the stability of rate, since any disturbance is corrected more quickly. The two trains are entirely disconnected and the movement remains unaffected when the chronograph is started.

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Normally, a second train implies a second barrel to provide the energy required by the chronograph. This approach nonetheless needs more space and above all means that the owner of the watch must wind up the chronograph barrel spring as well as the going barrel. With the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 model, the company’s technicians have introduced a new type of spring perfectly suited to the chronograph function.

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The energy required to drive the chronograph is provided by the user when operating the reset-to-zero function. This energy is stored in a flexed blade spring. The power reserve of this historical type of spring amounts to no more than 20 minutes, but this is ideal for measuring short elapsed times.

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The system enables the user to start the chronograph instantly, without worrying about the energy available, because it will always be at its maximum. To ensure that the spring is fully flexed, Breguet has designed a shape that guarantees enough elasticity to provide extra energy when arming the spring.

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The application of the blade spring principle by Breguet’s watchmakers has given rise to a number of innovations. A non-concentric going train has been associated with the blade spring so as to even out the torque and achieve constant amplitude and rate of the chronograph. A patent has been filed for the entire spring and train assembly. Instead of following its usual curve, the shape of the train has been calculated to transmit constant force to the chronograph.

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 In addition, the reference 7077 is fitted with a patented chronograph balance-wheel in titanium ensuring perfect symmetry with the movement balance-wheel. The use of a heavier material for the balance-wheel would have meant making it smaller. The overall appearance would be affected, especially since one of the features of the Tradition collection is to make the main parts of the movement visible on the baseplate. The two balance-wheels are thus the same size, despite their different frequencies, and their position is in tune with aesthetic considerations.

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 The chronograph function of this Tradition model is controlled by two pushers that are screwed in to keep out water. Contrary to customary chronographs, one pusher is devoted to starting the measurement, while the other stops and resets the chronograph to zero.

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It is this zeroing action that flexes and arms the blade spring, thus preparing the chronograph for a new measurement. The titanium balance-wheel is also flanked by two brakes.

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The first, working off a cam, frees the balance wheel when the chronograph is started and then holds it when the chronograph is stopped. In this way the balance-wheel is always in the ideal position and instantly reaches its proper amplitude. This innovative mechanism is protected by patent.

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Among the features that recall the historical roots of the Tradition collection are the patented pare-chute anti-shock devices as well as the chronograph control which recalls that of the reference 4009 double second observation timer sold by Breguet on January 6th 1825.

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 In keeping with the rules, the style of this Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 is noted for its symmetry. The engine turned dial in silvered gold showing the hours and minutes are offset at 12 o'clock, while the chronograph hand is fixed in the centre of the watch.

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The chronograph-activation indicator is at 6 o'clock. Directly opposite each other at 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock two retrograde hands respectively indicate the power reserve of the watch and the chronograph minutes, while the two balance-wheels beat side by side at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock.

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This hand-wound timepiece is water-resistant to 3 bar (30m) and is fitted with a leather strap.

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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS



Model: Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077

Reference: 7077BB/G1/9XV

Case
18-carat white gold with delicately fluted case band
Sapphire-crystal caseback
height (mm) 44
thickness (mm) 13.95
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water resistant to 3 bar (30m)
Dial
Silvered 18-carat gold, engine-turned and offset at 12 o'clock
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals
Power reserve indicator at 2 o'clock and 20-minute counter at 10 o'clock
Breguet open tipped hands in blued steel
Movement
Hand-wound chronograph movement numbered and signed Breguet
Power reserve indicator and 20-minute counter engraved on the back of the movement
Chronograph running indicator at 6 o'clock
Cal. 580DR.
16
62
Power reserve (hours) 50
Symmetrical inverted in-line lever escapements with silicon pallets
Breguet balance-wheels on Breguet springs in silicon
Movement frequency: 3Hz
Chronograph frequency: 5Hz
The two oscillators are adjusted in six positions
Strap
Black Leather strap 9XV

Versions
Also available in 18-carat rose gold
Reference 7077BR/G1/9XV
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Wednesday, August 12, 2015

MONTBLANC – Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II Chronograph


















MONTBLANC – Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II Chronograph Limited Edition NEW


Writing the History of the Measurement of Short Time Intervals – 
a new interpretation of Nicolas Rieussec's 1825 ink-trace chronograph

In 2015, Montblanc is pleased to present its Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II model, designed to commemorate the second invention presented in 1825 by Nicolas Rieussec, the inventor of the first inking chronograph patented in 1821. This instrument featured a process for marking the duration of time periods through the tip of a direct-drive seconds hand loaded with ink. Issued in a limited edition of 565 timepieces, the 43 mm-diameter Montblanc Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II watch in steel is highlighting its ties with the first 1825 hand-equipped chronograph, this new model emphasises Nicolas Rieussec's constant insistence on the need to achieve greater accuracy.

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The seminal influence of the virtuoso watchmaker Nicolas Rieussec is widely acknowledged today. He created the first timepiece capable of inscribing the duration of a time-period onto two rotating enamelled discs in 1821. Its method of operation was later patented with the French Academy of Science in 1822 under the name of “chronograph”. This mechanical marvel was literally designed to write the time, as indicated by the Greek roots from which this new term was coined (i.e. chronos, meaning “time”, and the verb graphein meaning “to write”). Its time measurement function was activated by two enamelled discs inscribed with time graduations. It was on these discs that a fixed hand in the form of the tip of a split quill recorded the time by depositing a drop of ink on their surfaces, activated by a slight vertical movement provoked by the user.

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The etymology of this timepiece's name recalls Montblanc's own roots as a Maison with an international reputation for the manufacturing of writing instruments. Since 2008, therefore, this device for “writing time” has inspired Montblanc's watchmakers to create a collection of chronographs powered by a Manufacture calibre combining modernity and tradition. This highly efficient watch movement employs a way of reading time measurements on the dial that is derived from the first timing instrument perfected by Nicolas Rieussec. However, this visionary watchmaker constantly continued to reflect on the most accurate way to record timing information. He never ceased to innovate, and in 1825 he developed an improved version of his newly christened chronograph. With this model, he abandoned the use of a rotating graduated enameled disc in favor of a long, slender central seconds hand (christened the Diablotine or “little devil”) which would rotate to follow a minute-circle displayed around the dial. The tip of this hand, loaded with a drop of ink, was made up of an ingenious mechanism to enable users of the device to deposit a tiny portion of this ink wherever they wished on the surface. Operating in the same way as a calligraphic pen, his new device made this visionary watchmaker the acknowledged master of the recording of even very short time periods since it guaranteed its users an accuracy in the measurement of the duration of performances that had never been achieved before, of the order of 1/5 of a second.

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In 2015, Montblanc now pays fresh tribute to this great watchmaker by unveiling a new interpretation of his 1825 inking chronograph. In its colours and the shape of its hands, the Montblanc Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II chronograph faithfully reproduces the appearance of the original, while at the same time adapting to the modern era by using the most advanced materials and methods.

The new Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II chronograph in the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec collection displays the date, a second time zone indication and a day/night indication. This steel timepiece will be launched in a limited edition of 565.

Characteristics of a New Method for Recording Time

In order to ensure the accuracy of the measurements of short time periods while remaining faithful to the method of indication used in the second chronograph perfected by Nicolas Rieussec in 1825, the rotating counters indicating the seconds and the recording of 30-minute time periods, hitherto located respectively on the left and right of the dial in all models, are now for the first time replaced by slender chronograph hands. These will not, of course, deposit a drop of ink on the counters, but will be stopped in position by pressing the push-piece situated at 8 o'clock. The corresponding lever acts on the column-wheel, which in turn transmits the order via a vertical clutch to the wheels that carry, at the ends of the pivots, the hands pointing towards a railtrack circle with numerals resembling those appearing on the dial of the original chronograph.

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In addition, the chronograph seconds hand situated on the left includes a counterpoise inspired by that found on the long hand of the original 1825 timepiece. In terms of the indications, for the hour ring and the graduation of the counters, Montblanc has opted, as in the case of the Homage to Nicolas Rieussec I chronograph, for an ultra-modern hybrid ceramic with the exclusive Montblanc Mysterious Super-LumiNova®, the clarity and brilliance of which is reminiscent of the enamel used in traditional dials. In daylight it displays a railtrack minute-circle similar to that found on the watches of the period, but in the dark its full potential is revealed. In fact this ceramic incorporates pigments of Super-LumiNova® to trace out Roman numerals in a typographic style identical to that employed by Nicolas Rieussec for his 1825 chronograph. This mysterious display technique contributes an added element of magic that reinforces the impact of the dial with its surface displaying a grained appearance. This is inspired by the treatment used for the metal parts of the original timepiece and highlights the apertures with a delicate satin-finished background displaying the date at 3 o'clock and a delicate guilloché pattern displaying the day/night indication at 9 o'clock. A second time-zone indication is displayed by means of a skeleton hours hand.

A monopusher chronograph equipped with a Manufacture calibre

The innovative dial conceals the self-winding MB R200 Manufacture calibre. This combines traditional watchmaking craftsmanship with the most advanced technical research. A meticulously milled column-wheel links the movement's gear-train to the monopusher chronograph mechanism through the mediation of a vertical clutch that operates with practically no friction and prevents any undesired jumping action of the seconds hand when the chronograph function is activated. The double barrel ensures a 72-hour power reserve. However, this mechanism is noteworthy not only for its technical performance, but also for the qualities of its design in terms of watchmaking aesthetics. Its finishes, such as bevelling and the use of the Côtes de Genève motif, and the presence of blued screws in the traditional style and an aligned gear-train, all contribute to concentrating attention on the balance-wheel, which exerts an almost hypnotic fascination with its 28,800 vibrations per hour. This perfectly balanced movement is produced and assembled in the Montblanc workshops in Villeret

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A Timepiece that is Contemporary by Tradition

The automatic calibre visible through the timepiece's transparent case back is protected from external impacts by a steel case with a diameter of 43 mm. Produced to the very highest standards of quality, this traditional timepiece with contemporary dimensions features a curved profile specially conceived to make it a superbly comfortable fit for any wearer's wrist. Water-resistant to 3 bar, the Montblanc Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II model features on the dial side a slightly domed sapphire glass designed to fit perfectly with the curvature of the bezel, and on the back a flat sapphire glass that allows for detailed observation of the finishes of an automatic movement that includes 319 component parts, each meticulously crafted. This monopusher chronograph, produced in a limited edition of 565 pieces, is worn on a black alligator-skin strap with a triple folding buckle.

The Montblanc Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II model is delivered with a certificate guaranteeing that its high level of performance has been tested for 500 hours by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500.

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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS



Montblanc Homage Nicolas Rieussec II Chronograph
 

Ident. 111873 Stainless steel

Movement  
Montblanc manufacture Calibre: MB R200
Type of movement  
Mechanical movement with double barrel and automatic winding
Chronograph Monopusher with column-wheel and vertical coupling
No. of components 319
No. of rubies 40
Power reserve 72 hours
Balance Screw balance, diameter = 9.7 mm; moment of inertia = 12 mgcm²
Frequency 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring Flat
Plate Rhodium plating and circular graining
Bridges Rhodium plating and Geneva waves
Gear-train Special tooth profile improves the efficiency of the power transmission
Displays
Hours and minutes on an off-centre subdial,
Second Time Zone with day/night display
Date on a rotating disc
Chronograph
60 elapsed seconds and 30 elapsed minutes on rotating discs under motionless hands
Special feature
Travel function with rapid reset of hour-hand and date display either forward or backward
Features
Case 
Stainless steel; polished case, polished and satin-finished bezel
Cambered sapphire crystal antireflective treated on both its surfaces, screwed back includes transparent pane of sapphire crystal
Watertightness 3 bar / 30 m
Dimensions
Diameter = 43 mm; height = 14.8 mm
Crown Stainless steel with inlaid Montblanc emblem made of mother-of-pearl
Push-piece Monopusher at “8 o’clock”
Dial  
Grainé dial, enamelled hour-circle with black minute-circle and Arabic numerals in “Mysterious Superluminova” that are invisible under daylight conditions.
Gold-plated superluminova-coated hour-hand and minute-hand,
Skeletonised, rhodium-plated hour-hand for the second time zone
Guilloche-embellished day/night display for the second time zone in a window at “9 o’clock”
Date window at “3 o’clock”
Chronograph has two enamelled discs (one counter for 60 elapsed seconds at “8 o’clock” and a second counter for 30 elapsed minutes at “4 o’clock”) with rhombic double index made of blued metal
Strap 
Black alligator-skin strap with large reptilian scales and pin buckle made of Stainless steel

Limited edition of 565 pieces

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