Thursday, May 28, 2015

A. Favre & Fils – Phoenix 10.3 - Twin Regulator














A. Favre & Fils Phoenix 10.3 - Twin Regulator With Differential Gear NEW

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A sensorial experience of two hearts beating as one

A tribute to the works of Abraham-Louis Breguet and, closer to us, Philippe Dufour, the  Phoenix 10.3 presents, on the dial side, the twin pulsation of oscillators that mutually compensate each other, averaging errors through a differential gear.

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Phoenix 10.3 GATSBY

In the quest for precision, the twin regulator is a complication that finds its relevance in a wristwatch that must endure important gravitational stresses. Beyond its mechanical prowess, the three-dimensional architecture of the movement achieves the reconciliation of the parts with the whole.

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The front stage is all about symmetry. We peal the layers down, showing the magic in motion, from the regulators dragging their escapements to the rotating differential gear. In the backstage, owner’s privilege, asymmetry fights back.

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We take off with a wolf teeth ratchet wheel and its eagle shaped c lick and aircraft’s spring. We land on the other side of the differential gear train, mounted on a winged bridge, with non-conical satellite gears to limit the friction on the escapement.

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 Phoenix 10.3 HUGO

Three centuries of watchmaking history allow us to draw freely from different eras and tendencies. For this piece, we chose the golden years of the Roaring Twenties, where the angular geometry of art-deco followed the crazy curves of art-nouveau, an endless reservoir of mechanical inventions, architecture and fine arts.

We bring movement decoration, trimming work that became an art, into a new dimension.

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 We climb on progressive angles, on balcony “beach” chamfers and continued reliefs on different bridges. The front stage is all about symmetry. We peal the layers down, showing the magic in motion, from the regulators dragging their escapements to the rotating differential gear.

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Phoenix 10.3 GATSBY

In the backstage, asymmetry fights back, beginning with a wolf teeth ratchet wheel and its eagle shaped click and aircraft’s spring, ending on the other side of the differential gear train, mounted on a winged bridge.

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Phoenix 10.3 GATSBY Titanium 

The movement DR 1500 decoration is elevated to a new dimension. We climb on progressive or balcony angles and continued reliefs on different bridges. The oscillators beat at 21,600 variations per hour and the twin parallel barrels offer up to 60 hours of power reserve.

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History
An authentic record saved in the Neuchâtel State Archives establishes that on March 29, 1718, a contract was concluded between Abraham Favre and the master watchmaker Daniel Gagnebin in which the former commits to teach Abraham Favre the profession of watchmaker to the extent of his knowledge for a period of three years.




























This document marks the beginning of the Favre watchmaking history. Another official document dated from 1737 then mentions his son, also named Abraham, as a master watchmaker. From the fourth generation on, the trade name of the firm becomes Abraham Favre & Fils, and the timepieces are subsequently signed with the brand "A. Favre & Fils", symbol of the origin and the continuity.
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Technical Specifications

 Model: Phoenix 10.3 - Twin Regulator With Differential Gear
Movement
Movement Type: Manufacture Manual
Calibre: DR 1500/1
Frequency: 2 X 21,600 variations per hour
Diameter:  15 ‘’’ (lines) / 33.65 mm
Height: 7.09 mm
Jewelling: 65 jewels
Power Reserve: 60 Hours
Specifi cations: Twin parallel barrel, manual winding
Balance wheels: Two titanium balance wheels with regulating screws
Functions:   
• Central Hours and Minutes
• Off-Centred Sweeping Seconds
• Twin Regulator with Differential Gear
Case:
Case Shape: Round
Case Material: White Gold
Finishing: Superlative finishing by hand of every component
Diameter: Ø 41.00 mm
Thickness: 10.54 mm
Bezel: White Gold
Case Back: Transparent
Water Resistance:  30 meters in gold / 50 meters in titanium
Dial: Openwork skeleton
Bracelet:
Bracelet:  Black Leather
Clasp: Titanium Pin Buckle

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Montres AF&F S.A.
17 Rue du Clos
CH-1207 Geneva
Switzerland
+41 78 760 14 25
info@afavrefils.com
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www.AFavreFils.com

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

RICHARD MILLE – RM 27-2 Tourbillon RAFAEL NADAL Limited Edition














RICHARD MILLERM 27-2 Tourbillon RAFAEL NADAL NTPT® carbon/TPT® quartz Limited Edition NEW


Watchmaking must be consistently challenged, both technically and artistically. With the RM 27-02, Richard Mille presents a new uncompromising caliber that reinterprets the art and methods of watch design in the 21st century.

It is in the run-up to the 114th French Open, where emblematic Richard Mille partner Rafael Nadal will be vying for his tenth title, that the Swiss Jura brand is unveiling its new manual winding tourbillon caliber dedicated to tennis.

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Following research by Richard Mille’s engineers into NTPT® carbon — a material with remarkable mechanical properties and excellent resistance to micro-cracks—the brand is unveiling the very first skeletonised baseplate known as “unibody”, in which the caseband and baseplate have been fused into a single piece, removing the need to attach the two components together. This structure, inspired by the chassis of racing cars, enhances rigidity and resistance to impacts when used in watchmaking.

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A major watchmaking and technological breakthrough machined at ProArt, the unibody baseplate is a technical feat that requires in-depth knowledge and mastery of micro-machining new materials—a concept that Richard Mille has nurtured since the very beginning.

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The sculptural baseplate supports the bridges in grade 5 titanium, which are highly original in terms of their three-dimensional construction, their finishes (beveled, shot-blasted and satin-brushed by hand) and the complexity of their titanium and carbon composition. These bridges support an impressive mechanical heart capable of running for over 70 hours without detriment to its regularity thanks to a rapidly rotating barrel that delivers constant power from the beginning to the end of operation.

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Such innovations are not limited to the heart of the watch, as demonstrated by the categorical absence of compromise on the case. Dressed in black and white, it inevitably catches the eye with its unique appearance.
Working with North Thin Ply Technology, Richard Mille’s engineers have developed a highly original material known as TPT® quartz, composed of hundreds of layers of quartz filaments piled on top of each other. These fibers are exceptionally resistant to high temperatures and are characterized by extreme strength and transparency to electromagnetic waves.

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No thicker than 45 microns, the silica layers are inserted between layers of NTPT® carbon by an automatic positioning system that changes the orientation of the fibers between each layer by 45°. Heated to 120°C in an autoclave similar to those used to make aeronautical components, the material is then ready for machining at ProArt. During this phase, the various layers of TPT® quartz and NTPT® carbon are revealed at random, ensuring that each machined component is as unique as the heart of the baseplate, which is machined using the same process.

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  Photo - Stefano Galuzzi

The bezel and solid case back in NTPT® carbon/TPT® quartz are then attached to the unibody baseplate using 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium. A sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment adds the final finishing touch to this unique combination.

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  Photo - Stefano Galuzzi

Like the RM 006, RM 008 and RM 012 tourbillons, the RM 27-02 belongs to the elite circle of Richard Mille watches destined to leave their mark on their era.

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With a production run of just 50 models, the RM 27-02 is a rare product reserved for those closest to the brand. As usual, Rafael Nadal will carry out the ultimate approval test by wearing this new caliber in his international matches.

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Photo - Stefano Galuzzi 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: RM27-2 CA-FQ

CALIBER
RM27-02: Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes.
UNIBODY BASEPLATE
The baseplate, machined from NTPT® carbon, is an integral part of the case. For the first time at Richard Mille, the case middle has been removed. The bezel and case back are assembled directly on the baseplate, which is described as “unibody”, a type of racing-car construction that ensures maximum rigidity and greater resistance to impacts.
The skeletonised NTPT® carbon baseplate is a feat of machining. A master component of the RM 27-02, it has been subjected to a full battery of extreme approval tests in order to optimize its mechanical properties.
ARCING BRIDGES
In grade 5 Titanium.
Beveled, shot-blasted and satin-brushed by hand.
FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA

A free sprung balance with variable inertia and a terminal-curve spring guarantees greater reliability in case of impacts and during movement assembly and disassembly, thus achieving better chronometric results over time.
POWER RESERVE
70 hours (±10%).
CRYSTAL
In sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides).
Thickness: 1.20 mm and 4.09 mm at the edges.
FAST ROTATING BARREL (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel has the following advantages:
- The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished and performance is thus enhanced, - It provides an excellent delta of the mainspring curve. The choice is determined by the ideal power reserve performance/regularity ratio.
BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL
This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the start of winding. It also promotes the even distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE CASE
Due to their design, these screws offer better control of the torque applied to them during assembly.
They therefore remain unaffected by the physical manipulations involved in assembly and dismantling, and age well.
OTHER FEATURES
- Movement dimensions: 29.30 mm x 29.60 mm.
- Thickness: 7.10 mm.
- Balance diameter: 10.00 mm.
- Number of jewels: 19.
- Balance: in Glucydur, with 2 arms and 4 setting screws.
- Moment of inertia: 11.50 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53°.
- Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph).
- Balance spring: in ELINVAR by Nivarox®.
- Shock absorbers: Kif Elastor by KE 160 B28.
- Barrel shafts: in nickel-free Chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr13 + S), with the following characteristics: stainless, non-magnetic, tempered.
DIMENSIONS
47.77 x 39.70 x 12.25 mm.
CASE IN QUARTZ TPT®
The bezel and case back are made from NTPT® carbon and Quartz TPT® , a groundbreaking new material designed and developed by Richard Mille in partnership with North Thin Ply Technology.
QTPT® is composed of over 600 layers of parallel filaments obtained from separating silica threads. These layers, no thicker than 45 microns, are saturated in a white resin developed specially for Richard Mille, then inserted between layers of NTPT® carbon using an automatic positioning system that changes the orientation of the fibers between each layer by 45°. It is then heated to 120°C and subjected to a pressure of 6 bars in an autoclave similar to those used to make aeronautical components, before the material is ready for machining on a CNC machine at Proart, Richard Mille’s case factory. Machining unveils the various TPT® Quartz layers at random, ensuring that each machined component is unique.
TORQUE LIMITING CROWN
This additional security system prevents from accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or putting extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
FINISHING
Movement
- Gradual hand-polished beveling - Shot-blasted milled sections
- Stretched upper surfaces
Steel Parts
- Shot-blasted surfaces
- Satin-brushed surfaces
- Hand-polished beveling
- Long strokes
- Matt “brouillé” strokes
- Long strokes on the sides - Polished sinks

Limited Edition of 50 pieces
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www.fundacionrafanadal.org
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RICHARD MILLE
Communications Director
Richard Mille Europe, Middle East & Africa Ltd.
Mobile 44 (0) 7747 640013
Email  beatrice.giusti@richardmille-emea.com
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