Harry Winston – Histoire de Tourbillon 6

Harry Winston – Histoire de Tourbillon 6 Limited Edition NEW

The curtain rises on the sixth chapter of Histoire de Tourbillon. This High Watchmaking and High Complication by Harry Winston once again pushes the envelope in both technical sophistication and exclusivity. Its HW4701 caliber is the most complex in the Histoire de Tourbillon series.

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A genuine first in the history of horology, it combines two independent hour indications: one regulated by a tri-axial tourbillon and the other by a karussel. Both karrusel and tourbillon operate in a similar manner and feature the same exceptional precision-rating qualities. Histoire de Tourbillon 6 is a natural sequel to its five predecessors, with the same immediately recognizable design, that set them apart from any other timepiece. The impressive white gold case is designed to fit the contours and accompany the technical constraints of a movement distinguished by its unique complexity and construction.

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The Histoire de Tourbillon 6 movement is composed of two independent parts, like two heads on a single body. Hours and minutes are displayed on one side, regulated by the tri-axial tourbillon. They are recognizable by their color coding – orange against a gray background – and housed within a rounded protrusion on the case.

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The right side of the watch is distinguished by its blue hands and markings against a black backdrop. It features a dial with hands that can be started, stopped and reset at will. A blue ceramic pusher at 2 o’clock allows this superlative creation to display the elapsed hours and minutes like a chronograph. This unique and versatile function also drives a dual-time display that may be adjusted as desired via the 3 o’clock crown.

Omnidirectional Tourbillon

The incredible technical sophistication of the tri-axial tourbillon is supremely exclusive. The first cage carries the balance wheel and performs one turn every 45 seconds. It rotates inside a second cage, which spins in 75 seconds along its vertical axis. This ensemble is set in motion inside a third, spherical cage, which completes its own revolution in 300 seconds. The latter is the cage featuring the orange seconds hand, visible beneath a sapphire crystal dome that offers a fascinating view of the three-dimensional ballet of time.

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Meanwhile, the karussel performs a 30-second rotation.

The varying rotation angles and speeds of the tourbillon and karussel play a decisive role in chronometric performance, which is the watch’s accuracy. Together they counteract the detrimental effects of gravity. Precision is further enhanced by the fast-rotating twin barrels, boasting an exceptionally regular torque.

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A few figures highlight the incomparable complexity of this timepiece. Caliber HW4701 is made up of 683 parts. Its tri-axial tourbillon alone requires 141 parts and weighs a mere 1.85 grams. This voluminous graphic structure is visible beneath four sapphire crystals, all distinguished by convex and complex shapes.

Controlled-start karussel

The complication that makes the Histoire de Tourbillon 6 unique is a subtle and inconspicuous one. If need be, the karrusel positioned at 1 o’clock can remain idle. When started, it acts as the regulator for the independent part of the HW4701 movement, occupying the right side. It is stopped by default, but starts running when the pusher, located on the caseband is pressed. The specific construction of the karussel means that its balance wheel and its cage are simultaneously linked to the movement’s energy source. Even when halted, they are under constant tension and when released, instantly accelerate to cruising speed. This extremely rare karussel, with a 30-second rotation, operates at high speed in order to occupy a maximized number of positions in space.

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With this regulator, time displays can be personalized. The movement on the right side is akin to a monopusher chronograph and replicates that function. Its hands, however, are adjustable via a crown at 3 o’clock. Therefore, they can provide a dual-time display that is accurate to the nearest minute. This rare capability is ideal for offset time zones such as India (UTC +5:30), Caracas (UTC – 4:30) or Katmandu (UTC + 5:45).

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Rare, matte-finished and becoming

Despite its exceptional dimensions, 64 mm from crown to crown, Histoire de Tourbillon 6 has a comfortable fit. The mainplate and bridges, forming the structure of the movement, are made of titanium, a metal chosen for its light weight. The case is fitted with ergonomic lugs. Aligned with the large hand-sewn alligator strap, they seamlessly follow the curves of the wrist.

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The case is crafted using a white gold alloy with a high palladium content, giving it an attractive glow and radiating a matte sheen that expertly matches the distinctive look of the movement’s surface. It is entirely hand-beveled and sandblasted to give it a granular texture before undergoing an NAC galvanic treatment, which coats it with a black metal layer. The rendering is both sophisticated and striking, and entirely in harmony with the technical nature of the timepiece.

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The exclusive nature of Histoire de Tourbillon 6 is amplified by its limited production, a result of the exceptional complexity of Caliber HW4701. As in the previous chapters of the Histoire de Tourbillon by Harry Winston, only 20 will be made.

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Technical Specifications

Model: Histoire de Tourbillon 6 - 18K White Gold

Movement
Patented movement
Caliber HW4701
Tri-axial tourbillon
Display of the hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve
Karussel
Hours and minutes counter with zero-reset function equipped with carriage stop.
Movement operating indicator and power reserve indicator (Power Reserve gauge)
Diameter: 40.90 mm x 45.08 mm
Height: 17.30 mm
Number of components & Weight
Complete movement: 683 components
Tourbillon: 141 components
Karussel: 100 components
Tourbillon weight: 1.85 g
Karussel weight: 0.697 g
Number of jewels: 90
Power reserve
Tri-axial tourbillon: up to 80 hours
Karussel: up to 70 hours
Barrels: Two sets of twin fast-rotating series-coupled co-axial barrels equipped with slipping spring in order to avoid excess tension
Balance wheel: Variable-inertia type equipped with gold adjusting screws
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz) for each balance wheel
Balance spring: Phillips terminal curve and Geneva-type stud for each balance wheel
Mainplate: Titanium, shot-peened and chamfered, PVD-coated
Bridges
Titanium bridges, shot-peened and chamfered, PVD-coated
Screws with S-type slotted mirror-polished heads, shot-peened and chamfered
Tourbillon
Inner carriage containing the balance wheel and escapement pinion with 45-second rotation cycle
Intermediate carriage with 75-second rotation cycle
Outer carriage with 300-second rotation cycle
Karussel
Carriage rotation in 30 seconds
Display
Excentered polished rhodium-plated orange SLN Hours and Minutes in a counter at 10 o’clock
Seconds indicator on the tri-axial tourbillon carriage at 8 o’clock
Polished rhodium-plated orange SLN of the Hours and Minutes’ power-reserve at 12 o’clock
Open-worked chronograph hours and minutes in untreated Avional at 3 o’clock
Chronograph operating indicator at 2 o’clock
Polished rhodium-plated blue SLN chronograph power reserve
5 o’clock Chronograph karussel at 1 o’clock
Case
18K White Gold, polished, satin-brushed and shot-peened
Blue ceramic pusher
Diameter: 55 mm x 49 mm (edges of the bezel)
Height: 21.80 mm
Shaped sapphire crystal for the 3 o’clock zone with antireflective treatment on both sides
Shaped crystal for the 10 o’clock hours and minutes zone with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Domed sapphire crystal on the tourbillon with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case back: Open; Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Water resistance: 3 bars
Crown: 18K white gold and rubber
Strap
Hand-sewn black alligator leather
Buckle: 18K white gold double ardillon buckle

Edition
Limited Edition of 20

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Parmigiani Fleurier – TONDA Hémisphères Globo

Parmigiani Fleurier – TONDA Hémisphères GLOBO 

Free to create - an apt description of Parmigiani Fleurier's independent Manufacture.

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 Exercised in honour of women, this freedom takes on a specific nature, leading to the creation of an exquisite watch. Following on from the men's Tonda Hémisphères models, this new version illustrates the art of feminine travel, with a rare combination of technical mastery and finesse.

A complete, functional second time zone

Equipped with the self-winding Calibre PF 337, entirely designed and produced by Parmigiani, the Tonda Hémisphères features a complete second time zone, adjustable to the nearest minute, which reflects the quest for innovation so dear to the brand. This perfect synchronisation with the local time is obtained thanks to an ingenious mechanism (patented). The second time zone can be linked in full-hour intervals to the main time, or indexed to it with an interval of minutes. The Tonda Hémisphères can therefore be synchronised with destinations, with a half-hour offset - sometimes more - from GMT. The watch is adjusted using a beautifully simple mechanism. The first crown is used to wind the movement and adjust the date and main time. the second, positioned above, adjusts the minutes of the small time zone.

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Homage to the Earth

Until now, a small hand on each time zone has rotated around a counter divided into two parts, one black, one white, to indicate day or night. On the Tonda Hémisphères Globo, each time zone is represented by a domed disc, with a transferred image of the Earth, half in the sun and half in the shade. A red triangle indicates whether the time indicated refers to the day or night. It also features a striking representation of our planet, seen from above, with Europe at the centre. It offers a poetic vision of the majestic Earth, whose beauty shines out from the dial that serves as its universe.

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A vibrant, refined look

The opaline dial in Ivory, a silver tone with a slight yellow reflection, presents an exquisitely balanced view of the watch's multiple, beautifully readable indications: hours and minutes, small second at 6 o'clock, date at 9 o'clock, and the time zones. The Ivory shade captures the light and complements the brilliance of the bezel, which is set with 80 diamonds (0.8416 carats), creating a captivating effect.

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For all the sophistication of this model, Parmigiani Fleurier has designed it for the modern female traveller with a vibrant and confident personality. The Hermès strap in denim blue calf leather reflects this dynamism, elegantly underlining the Tonda Hémisphères Globo's modernity, the signature of this collection.

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Technical Specifications

TONDA HÉMISPHÈRES STEEL SET IVORY

References : PFC231-0060700-HC2822

MOVEMENT
Minute repeater & large date movement sounding the hours,
Quarter-hours and minutes
Calibre : PF337
Power reserve: 50 hours
Winding: Automatic
Dimensions: 15 ¾''' – Ø 35.60 mm
Thickness: 5.1 mm mm
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28’800 A/h
Barrel(s): 2 series-coupled barrels
Jewels: 38
Components: 316
Decoration: "Côtes de Genève", bevelled bridges
FUNCTIONS 
Date indication at 9 o'clock
Central hours and minutes
Small second at 6 o'clock
Day/night at 6 o'clock
Second time zone hour / minute at 12 o'clock
Barrel(s): 2nd time zone day/night indication at 1.30
CASE
Shape: 3-part round case
Dimensions: Ø 42 mm
Thickness: 11.15 mm mm
Material: Steel
Finishing: Polished
Bezel:

    Diamonds: 80

    Carats: 0.8416
Water resistance: 30 m
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown: Ø 5.5 mm & Ø 7 mm
Back: Sapphire
Back engraving: Individual number
DIAL
Colour: Ivory color
Index: Rhodium plated appliques with luminescent coating
Finishing: Opaline
Hands: Delta-shaped with luminescent coating
BRACELET
Brand: Hermès
Material: Calf
Colour: Bleu Jean
BUCKLE
Type: Folding

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Ulysse Nardin – Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon

Ulysse Nardin – Exceptional Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

The quintessence of mechanical technology timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel, this new model incorporates the constant Ulysse Anchor Escapement, a constant force escapement with a design that breaks completely with the traditional watchmaking approach. A break-away current, the kind of waters where Ulysse Nardin loves to sail.

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Driven by the unending quest for innovation that makes it one of the most dynamic Manufactures, in 2015 Ulysse Nardin dropped a new marker buoy on the capricious ocean of fine watchmaking. An undisputed world first, the new Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon is the quintessence of avant-garde mechanical technology, timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel. The outcome of eight years of research and development, the constant Ulysse Anchor escapement, made entirely of silicium, displays hitherto unknown architecture based on the principle of flexible mechanisms exploiting the elasticity of flat springs.

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This device, the culmination of the development work on the prototype version presented in 2014, represents the height of timekeeping sophistication today: first, no longer constrained by a pivoting staff, the pallet fork moves entirely without friction; second, the geometrical improvements made to the pallet fork, the escape wheel and the flat springs have resulted in a constant-force escapement; and to crown all of this, this new coinage in watchmaking is brought aboard in a tourbillon cage, the peak of traditional expertise.

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Ulysse Nardin has always been driven by a pioneering spirit: in 2001, the Manufacture was the first to develop an escapement made of silicium; it was the first to test a diamond balance spring in 2002; the first to use silicium for its Dual Ulysse escapement – a phenomenon in its own right – in 2005; the first to fit a watch with a diamond escapement, also in 2005; and lastly, the first to use silicium as a kernel for growing diamonds, DIAMonSIL.

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In collaboration with Sigatec, a co-owned company specializing in the production of silicium micro-components, the Le Locle-based company spent no less than eight years perfecting this mechanism, which today appears to be a paradigm shift in the approach to mechanical watchmaking. Challenging the principle of the traditional Swiss anchor escapement, the new constant Ulysse Anchor escapement features a circular frame with a pallet fork fixed in the center, supported in space on two blade springs less than a tenth of the thickness of a hair in diameter. Mounted perpendicular to each other, these are subjected to a bending force that curves them and maintains them in a bi-stable state.

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This complex structure, made entirely of silicium thanks to the DRIE deep etching technique, exploits the physical capacity of blade springs to become distorted along the left-right axis while remaining perfectly rigid along the up-down axis, thus reproducing the kinetic functions of a pivot. The impulse that issues from each alternation of the balance wheel thus transmits its energy to the blades, which snap from one stable state to the other, very much like a snap hair-clip. The pallet arms thus pivot backwards and forwards about a pallet staff that is purely virtual, without generating any frictional forces.

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But the best is yet to come: the redesigned pallet fork now possesses an integral resetting face. As the tooth of the escape wheel slides along this surface as far as the banking face, it will bring the pallet fork back every time to within just 3° of the center line – that is, the imaginary straight line between the center of the balance wheel and the center of the escape wheel which defines the system's equilibrium limit.

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Thus the effort that the balance wheel has to exert to push the pallet fork as far as its tipping point is less than the effort that is restored to it immediately afterwards by the bending of the blade springs. In this way, this positive energy balance is able to maintain the oscillations of the balance wheel at a constant rate. In fact, this interplay of forces is not influenced by the motor torque injected into the escape wheel, which only starts to move once the pallet fork has switched over.

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In a final touch of artistry, this astonishing construction is housed in a 60-seconds tourbillon, whose cage comprises 35 components but weighs no more than 0.4 grams.

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With its constant amplitude, irrespective of how much the two series-mounted spring barrels are wound, this exceptional oscillating mechanism is a major step forward in the field of chronometric accuracy. Visible through a large opening in the dial at 6 o'clock, it is encircled by the indication of its power reserve of at least 7 days on a 140° arc.

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This caliber UN-178 is housed in a rose gold or white gold case in the Classico collection. A setting with traditional lines enhanced with a white Grand Feu enamel dial created by the unrivaled expertise of Donzé Cadrans, a dial-making specialist company owned by Ulysse Nardin.

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Available in two limited editions of 18 pieces each, the Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon will be in the retailers' display windows from May.
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Technical specifications

Model: Exceptional Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon 
Carrousel Flying Tourbillon

Reference: 1780-133  18ct White Gold
Reference: 1786-133  18ct Rose Gold

Limited Edition: to 18 pieces

Movement:
Caliber UN-178, 
Manufacture Tourbillon
29 jewels, 18’000 V/H 
Power reserve: 7 days, slip-spring
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 v/h)
Moment of Inertia: 8 mg cm2, adjusting over 4 screws
Hairspring: Silicium, exclusive Ulysse Nardin design
Escapement: 
Constant Ulysse Anchor Escapement in silicium
Orbite: 1 revolution in one hour
Winding: Manual winding
Functions:
Hours and minutes, power reserve indicator 
Case:
18ct Rose gold or white gold
Dial: Grand Feu Enamel
Diameter: 44 mm
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel
Crown: Water-resistant. Screw-down security crown.
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Open case back with sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Strap:
Leather with simple buckle

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SEIKO – Prospex Marinemaster Collection

SEIKO – Prospex Marinemaster Collection NEW

Baselworld 2015

Prospex Marinemaster celebrates
50 years of Seiko’s diver’s watch excellence

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It was in 1965 that Seiko made its first ever diver’s watch. Half a century on, the list of Seiko’s achievements in this most challenging of arenas for watchmakers is long and distinguished. From the first use of a titanium case for a diver’s watch to the invention of the accordion-style strap and the two layer case to the design of dial markers and hands of unparalleled legibility, Seiko has been a pioneer in the field, and we are proud that the ISO 6425 standard was developed with Seiko’s own standard as its base. Today, Seiko’s diver’s watches are the world’s benchmark for excellence.

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Ref. RLS1503-03

Two new 2015 Marinemaster models offer new advances

The Marinemaster series has long been renowned for the security and precision that the professional diver requires. Two new timepieces in the Marinemaster series embody the very best of Seiko’s 50 years of experience in serving the needs of divers and once again push back the boundaries of diver’s watch technology.

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The Marinemaster Professional 1000m Diver’s

Like its 1975 predecessor, the new Marinemaster Professional 1000m Diver's has the two-layer case construction that is now the trademark of Seiko’s professional diver’s watches. Thanks to the strength of the inner case structure, the specially designed L-shaped gasket and the screw-down glass fixing ring, the watch is effectively impermeable to helium and can be safely used for saturation diving to great depths.

The use of ceramic for the outer shell enhances shock resistance and also prevents any unintentional rotation of the bezel. In September 2014, Seiko professional diver’s watches of the same case construction were subjected to the most extreme test imaginable. Affixed to the exterior hull of KAIKO 7000 II, a remotely operated undersea research vehicle, they performed perfectly down to a depth of 3,000m.
wikipedia.org - Kaiko 

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This new creation incorporates a mechanical caliber specially adjusted for a diver’s watch. The movement is caliber 8L35 and it is made and assembled, as is the complete watch, by Seiko’s leading craftsmen at the Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio. The hands and markers are coated with a new version of Seiko’s Lumibrite, which glows for 60% longer than in the past. The strap is made of extra-strength silicone for greater durability.

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Technical specifications
Model: Marinemaster Professional 1000m Diver’s (Ref. SBDX014)  
Movement
Caliber 8L35
Driving system: Automatic with manual-winding mechanism
Vibration: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second)
Power reserve: Approximately 50 hours
Number of jewels: 26 jewels
Case
Titanium with rose-gold color and black hard coating and ceramic case
One-piece case structure (no-case-back construction)
Sapphire crystal with anti-fogging coating
Screw-down crown
Water resistance 1,000m for saturation diving.
Magnetic resistance 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 48.2mm, Thickness: 17.4mm
Band
Extra-strength silicone strap
Price
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: Euro 3,450
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The Marinemaster Professional 1000m Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition

This is a diver’s watch worthy of a fifty year anniversary. Its design echoes that of Seiko’s very first hi-beat diver’s watch from the 1960’s, but its specifications are the most advanced in the field. It has a one-piece titanium case and, thanks to this, the L-shaped gasket and other features, it is impermeable to helium and suitable for saturation diving. The rotating bezel is securely fixed to the case with four screws next to the 12 and 6 o’clock positions.

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Ref. SBEX001G

It has the new Lumibrite for enhanced legibility. The 8L55 movement is specially optimized and adapted for use in a diver’s watch with this structure. This caliber beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 55 hours, and it is also assembled by Seiko’s leading craftsmen at the Shizuku-ishi Watch studio. Each watch comes with both a titanium bracelet with extender, and a black extra-strength silicone strap. Offered in a special presentation box, just 700 pieces will be made, each with its own serial number.

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Technical specifications
Model: Marinemaster Professional 1,000m Diver’s Hi-Beat Limited Edition (Ref. SBEX001)
Movement
Caliber 8L55
Driving system: Automatic with manual-winding mechanism
Vibration: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)
Power reserve: Approximately 55 hours
Number of jewels: 37 jewels
Case
Titanium case with super-hard coating
One-piece case structure (no-case-back construction)
Sapphire crystal with anti-fogging coating
Screw-down crown
Water resistance 1,000m for saturation diving.
Magnetic resistance 16,000 A/m
Diameter: 48.2mm, Thickness: 19.7mm
Band
Titanium with super-hard coating,
three-fold clasp with push button release with secure lock and slide adjuster
A black extra-strength silicone strap is included.
Price
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: Euro 6,400
Edition
Limited Edition of 700 pcs
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Prospex Kinetic GMT for land sports

Launched internationally at Baselworld 2014, Prospex has already taken its place at the very center of Seiko’s collection. Prospex offers a range of watches that meet the challenge of delivering precision and reliability in even the most adverse conditions. Prospex is built to perform and built to endure the stresses of sports in the sea, in the air and, new for 2015, on land. The new land sports model is perfect for mountaineering and adventuring of all kinds.

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Ref. SUN049

The Kinetic GMT movement offers one-second-a-day precision and the security of never needing a battery change. The cushion-shaped case is robust and allows for easy use of the rotating bezel, which carries a compass for secure and rapid orientation.

Technical specifications
Model: Prospex Kinetic GMT for land sports (Ref. SUN049)
Movement
Caliber 5M85, Kinetic GMT
Powered by the movement of your body
Power reserve: Approximately 6 months
Power reserve indication at the press of a button
GMT hand with easy hour hand adjustment function
Instant-start function
Accuracy: +/-15 seconds per month (at temperatures between 5℃and 35℃)
Case
Stainless steel case with black hard coating
Screw see-through case back, Screw-down crown
Water resistance 10 Bar
Diameter: 45.6mm
Band
Stainless steel, three-fold clasp with push button release with secure lock
Price
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: Euro 410

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The history of Seiko diver’s watches

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SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION
Mr­­ Noboru­­ Miyadera
2-8-10, Toranomon, Minato-ku,
Tokyo­­ 105-8467
Japan
Telephone+81 3 6739 2150
Telefax+81 3 6739 2071
seiko-pr@seiko-watch.co.jp
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ZENITH – Elite 6150

ZENITH – ELITE 6150 Automatic NEW

THE RENEWAL OF A FIRST-RATE CALIBRE

Zenith presents the Elite 6150 model equipped with a new Manufacture movement: the Elite 6150 calibre. This new mechanical automatic movement is the contemporary version of the famous Elite base movement developed in the early 1990s – an ultra-thin calibre that earned the title “Best Movement of the Year” when presented at the Basel Fair in 1994. 

In response to currents demands, the Zenith engineers and developers have chosen to enhance its performance, as well as its versatility by means of a minimum 100-hour power reserve, a broader 30 mm diameter, along with a central sweep-seconds hand. They have also been careful to preserve the exceptionally slender nature of a movement measuring a mere 3.92 mm thick. Driven by the new Elite 6150 calibre, the Elite 6150 model is distinguished by its classicism and its understated elegance. Its slim 42 mm-diameter case frames a pure, cambered dial punctuated by sleek, graceful hands. A model clearly built to last.

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With the Elite 6150 model and its new Elite calibre, Zenith returns to the very roots of the traditional expertise cultivated by the House: that of an authentic watch Manufacture capable of developing prestigious complicated calibres as well as precise and reliable classic movements. To achieve this, it is bringing back to the forefront its famous Elite base calibre presented in 1994. While this three-hand Zenith movement is still considered one of the most dependable on the market, it had hitherto remained in the shadow of its illustrious relative, the legendary El Primero chronograph calibre. Such a lack of exposure was quite unjustified, since this sturdy and versatile movement has for more than 20 years been impeccably driving both ultra-thin watches and gem-set models from the Zenith range. Determined to perfect its proven qualities and to deploy its virtually unlimited potential within its collections, the Manufacture has therefore undertaken to raise the profile of the Elite calibre. In its contemporary version, the new Elite movement is enriched with enhancements meeting current demands such as a 100-hour power reserve and a more generous diameter. Thereby raised to peak capacity, the new Elite 6150 calibre is destined to be interpreted through a number of upcoming new developments and to occupy the place it deserves within the offer from the brand with the guiding star.

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HOROLOGICAL GENIUS EXPRESSED IN COMPLETE SIMPLICITY

Elite. A name that speaks volumes in terms of the ambitions fuelling this movement developed by Zenith in 1994, the goal being to provide a robust, reliable, accurate and ultra-thin complement to its famous El Primero chronograph. The first Elite calibre already signalled Zenith’s ambition to be a full-fledged Manufacture creating its entire range of movements, from the most complex to the most ingenious. This was a rare phenomenon within the watch industry at the time, especially since very few companies even had their own base movement. Studies on this ultra-thin, adaptable movement began in 1991 and the Elite calibre was born three years later. The brand’s first development to benefit from Computer Assisted Design (CAD) technologies, the multi-purpose movement also intended for other companies was issued in several different versions right from the start.

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This 11-ligne calibre with its more than 50-hour power reserve was envisaged as a long-term product destined to evolve constantly over the years. The Elite calibre made a strong impact at the time of its presentation during the Basel Fair in 1994. Experts lavished fulsome praise on its many assets and noted its exceptional slimness. The trade press even awarded it the title “Best Movement of the Year”. Despite the immediate interest it sparked and a reputation that has remained on a par with its undeniable qualities, the Elite calibre has not yet earned the same degree of fame as the El Primero chronograph movement. By modernising it and notably integrating the latest technical and aesthetic developments, as well as attuning it to current requirements, the Manufacture Zenith is displaying its determination to bring the Elite movement firmly back to the forefront and to give it a starring role in its future developments.

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FOCUSING ON ESSENTIALS

With the aim of making the new Elite 6150 the basis of numerous future variations, the R&D team at Zenith opted to perfect its essential characteristics and to further enhance its performance. It notably addressed the task of doubling its power reserve – previously amounting to 55 hours – by adding a second barrel. The new Elite 6150 calibre now has a generous more than four-day power reserve. Throughout the development process, the movement thickness was the main focus of attention and safeguarding the movement’s original slimness was an absolute must. This challenge has been successfully met, since its 195 assembled parts form an ensemble no more than 3.92 mm thick. Meanwhile, the diameter of the calibre has been considerably enlarged so as to match the sizes of contemporary watches and thus provide a base movement that is more flexible to accommodate a variety of functions in the future. Another notable modification is that the seconds, formerly displayed in a subdial at 9 o’clock, are now displayed by a central direct-drive seconds hand, thereby ensuring improved amplitude, precision and reliability. Thus powering central hour, minute and seconds hands, the Elite 6150 calibre beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

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SLIM AND RESTRAINED

The first timepiece to house the new Elite calibre, the Elite 6150 model features an entirely redesigned ultra-thin case of which the 42 mm diameter, a first for Zenith, will become a new benchmark size for the brand. The pure, restrained design of this case expresses the care devoted by the Manufacture to a process of constant self-renewal, driven by a will to endure and to pursue a quest for essentials. This new ultra-thin steel case redesigned in a pebble shape features slim, flowing lines accentuated by tapered, slightly sloping lugs. Water-resistant to a depth of 30 metres, the case of the Elite 6150 reveals through its transparent back the mechanism in motion and the steady dance of its oscillating weight delicately adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif. The timeless classicism of this timepiece exuding an inherent sense of elegance continues on the display side with a cambered silver-toned dial punctuated by extremely slender baton-type hands. In a striking trompe-l’oeil effect, the long, slender hour-markers hollowed out to form delicate grooves create a distinct sense of depth. These subtle refined touches are matched by a rubber-lined alligator strap fitted with a comfortable triple-blade folding clasp.

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A NEW ERA FOR ZENITH CALIBRES

In unveiling this new Elite 6150 calibre, Zenith reaffirms the brand’s determination to honour its status as a Manufacture and heralds the renewal of its range of “in-house” movements. This contemporary evolution of a sturdy and accurate historical calibre embodies a solid and lasting foundation for future variations and developments.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: ELITE 6150

• AUTOMATIC ELITE CALIBRE 6150:
195 PARTS, 3.92 MM THICK, 28,000 VPH
• 100-HOUR MINIMUM POWER RESERVE
• TWIN BARREL
• ULTRA-THIN CASE

Reference: 03.2270.6150/01.C493

Movement:
Elite 6150, automatic
Calibre: 13¼‘‘‘ (diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness: 3.92 mm
Parts: 195
Jewels: 35
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 100-hour minimum 
Functions:
Hours and minutes
Central seconds 
Case:
Material: steel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 10 mm
Glass: domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Water resistance: 3 ATM 
Dial:
Silver-toned
Hour-markers: hollowed to form delicate grooves
Hands: baton-type
Strap:
Black alligator leather with protective rubber lining
Steel triple-blade folding clasp
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