Friday, April 10, 2015

Harry Winston – Histoire de Tourbillon 6













Harry WinstonHistoire de Tourbillon 6 Limited Edition NEW

The curtain rises on the sixth chapter of Histoire de Tourbillon. This High Watchmaking and High Complication by Harry Winston once again pushes the envelope in both technical sophistication and exclusivity. Its HW4701 caliber is the most complex in the Histoire de Tourbillon series.


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A genuine first in the history of horology, it combines two independent hour indications: one regulated by a tri-axial tourbillon and the other by a karussel. Both karrusel and tourbillon operate in a similar manner and feature the same exceptional precision-rating qualities. Histoire de Tourbillon 6 is a natural sequel to its five predecessors, with the same immediately recognizable design, that set them apart from any other timepiece. The impressive white gold case is designed to fit the contours and accompany the technical constraints of a movement distinguished by its unique complexity and construction.

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The Histoire de Tourbillon 6 movement is composed of two independent parts, like two heads on a single body. Hours and minutes are displayed on one side, regulated by the tri-axial tourbillon. They are recognizable by their color coding – orange against a gray background – and housed within a rounded protrusion on the case.

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The right side of the watch is distinguished by its blue hands and markings against a black backdrop. It features a dial with hands that can be started, stopped and reset at will. A blue ceramic pusher at 2 o’clock allows this superlative creation to display the elapsed hours and minutes like a chronograph. This unique and versatile function also drives a dual-time display that may be adjusted as desired via the 3 o’clock crown.

Omnidirectional Tourbillon

The incredible technical sophistication of the tri-axial tourbillon is supremely exclusive. The first cage carries the balance wheel and performs one turn every 45 seconds. It rotates inside a second cage, which spins in 75 seconds along its vertical axis. This ensemble is set in motion inside a third, spherical cage, which completes its own revolution in 300 seconds. The latter is the cage featuring the orange seconds hand, visible beneath a sapphire crystal dome that offers a fascinating view of the three-dimensional ballet of time.

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Meanwhile, the karussel performs a 30-second rotation.

The varying rotation angles and speeds of the tourbillon and karussel play a decisive role in chronometric performance, which is the watch’s accuracy. Together they counteract the detrimental effects of gravity. Precision is further enhanced by the fast-rotating twin barrels, boasting an exceptionally regular torque.

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A few figures highlight the incomparable complexity of this timepiece. Caliber HW4701 is made up of 683 parts. Its tri-axial tourbillon alone requires 141 parts and weighs a mere 1.85 grams. This voluminous graphic structure is visible beneath four sapphire crystals, all distinguished by convex and complex shapes.

Controlled-start karussel

The complication that makes the Histoire de Tourbillon 6 unique is a subtle and inconspicuous one. If need be, the karrusel positioned at 1 o’clock can remain idle. When started, it acts as the regulator for the independent part of the HW4701 movement, occupying the right side. It is stopped by default, but starts running when the pusher, located on the caseband is pressed. The specific construction of the karussel means that its balance wheel and its cage are simultaneously linked to the movement’s energy source. Even when halted, they are under constant tension and when released, instantly accelerate to cruising speed. This extremely rare karussel, with a 30-second rotation, operates at high speed in order to occupy a maximized number of positions in space.

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With this regulator, time displays can be personalized. The movement on the right side is akin to a monopusher chronograph and replicates that function. Its hands, however, are adjustable via a crown at 3 o’clock. Therefore, they can provide a dual-time display that is accurate to the nearest minute. This rare capability is ideal for offset time zones such as India (UTC +5:30), Caracas (UTC – 4:30) or Katmandu (UTC + 5:45).

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Rare, matte-finished and becoming

Despite its exceptional dimensions, 64 mm from crown to crown, Histoire de Tourbillon 6 has a comfortable fit. The mainplate and bridges, forming the structure of the movement, are made of titanium, a metal chosen for its light weight. The case is fitted with ergonomic lugs. Aligned with the large hand-sewn alligator strap, they seamlessly follow the curves of the wrist.

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The case is crafted using a white gold alloy with a high palladium content, giving it an attractive glow and radiating a matte sheen that expertly matches the distinctive look of the movement’s surface. It is entirely hand-beveled and sandblasted to give it a granular texture before undergoing an NAC galvanic treatment, which coats it with a black metal layer. The rendering is both sophisticated and striking, and entirely in harmony with the technical nature of the timepiece.

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The exclusive nature of Histoire de Tourbillon 6 is amplified by its limited production, a result of the exceptional complexity of Caliber HW4701. As in the previous chapters of the Histoire de Tourbillon by Harry Winston, only 20 will be made.

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Technical Specifications

Model: Histoire de Tourbillon 6 - 18K White Gold

Movement
Patented movement
Caliber HW4701
Tri-axial tourbillon
Display of the hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve
Karussel
Hours and minutes counter with zero-reset function equipped with carriage stop.
Movement operating indicator and power reserve indicator (Power Reserve gauge)
Diameter: 40.90 mm x 45.08 mm
Height: 17.30 mm
Number of components & Weight
Complete movement: 683 components
Tourbillon: 141 components
Karussel: 100 components
Tourbillon weight: 1.85 g
Karussel weight: 0.697 g
Number of jewels: 90
Power reserve
Tri-axial tourbillon: up to 80 hours
Karussel: up to 70 hours
Barrels: Two sets of twin fast-rotating series-coupled co-axial barrels equipped with slipping spring in order to avoid excess tension
Balance wheel: Variable-inertia type equipped with gold adjusting screws
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz) for each balance wheel
Balance spring: Phillips terminal curve and Geneva-type stud for each balance wheel
Mainplate: Titanium, shot-peened and chamfered, PVD-coated
Bridges
Titanium bridges, shot-peened and chamfered, PVD-coated
Screws with S-type slotted mirror-polished heads, shot-peened and chamfered
Tourbillon
Inner carriage containing the balance wheel and escapement pinion with 45-second rotation cycle
Intermediate carriage with 75-second rotation cycle
Outer carriage with 300-second rotation cycle
Karussel
Carriage rotation in 30 seconds
Display
Excentered polished rhodium-plated orange SLN Hours and Minutes in a counter at 10 o’clock
Seconds indicator on the tri-axial tourbillon carriage at 8 o’clock
Polished rhodium-plated orange SLN of the Hours and Minutes’ power-reserve at 12 o’clock
Open-worked chronograph hours and minutes in untreated Avional at 3 o’clock
Chronograph operating indicator at 2 o’clock
Polished rhodium-plated blue SLN chronograph power reserve
5 o’clock Chronograph karussel at 1 o’clock
Case
18K White Gold, polished, satin-brushed and shot-peened
Blue ceramic pusher
Diameter: 55 mm x 49 mm (edges of the bezel)
Height: 21.80 mm
Shaped sapphire crystal for the 3 o’clock zone with antireflective treatment on both sides
Shaped crystal for the 10 o’clock hours and minutes zone with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Domed sapphire crystal on the tourbillon with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case back: Open; Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Water resistance: 3 bars
Crown: 18K white gold and rubber
Strap
Hand-sewn black alligator leather
Buckle: 18K white gold double ardillon buckle

Edition
Limited Edition of 20

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Thursday, April 9, 2015

Parmigiani Fleurier – TONDA Hémisphères Globo














Parmigiani FleurierTONDA Hémisphères GLOBO 

Free to create - an apt description of Parmigiani Fleurier's independent Manufacture.

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 Exercised in honour of women, this freedom takes on a specific nature, leading to the creation of an exquisite watch. Following on from the men's Tonda Hémisphères models, this new version illustrates the art of feminine travel, with a rare combination of technical mastery and finesse.


A complete, functional second time zone

Equipped with the self-winding Calibre PF 337, entirely designed and produced by Parmigiani, the Tonda Hémisphères features a complete second time zone, adjustable to the nearest minute, which reflects the quest for innovation so dear to the brand. This perfect synchronisation with the local time is obtained thanks to an ingenious mechanism (patented). The second time zone can be linked in full-hour intervals to the main time, or indexed to it with an interval of minutes. The Tonda Hémisphères can therefore be synchronised with destinations, with a half-hour offset - sometimes more - from GMT. The watch is adjusted using a beautifully simple mechanism. The first crown is used to wind the movement and adjust the date and main time. the second, positioned above, adjusts the minutes of the small time zone.

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Homage to the Earth

Until now, a small hand on each time zone has rotated around a counter divided into two parts, one black, one white, to indicate day or night. On the Tonda Hémisphères Globo, each time zone is represented by a domed disc, with a transferred image of the Earth, half in the sun and half in the shade. A red triangle indicates whether the time indicated refers to the day or night. It also features a striking representation of our planet, seen from above, with Europe at the centre. It offers a poetic vision of the majestic Earth, whose beauty shines out from the dial that serves as its universe.

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A vibrant, refined look


The opaline dial in Ivory, a silver tone with a slight yellow reflection, presents an exquisitely balanced view of the watch's multiple, beautifully readable indications: hours and minutes, small second at 6 o'clock, date at 9 o'clock, and the time zones. The Ivory shade captures the light and complements the brilliance of the bezel, which is set with 80 diamonds (0.8416 carats), creating a captivating effect.

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For all the sophistication of this model, Parmigiani Fleurier has designed it for the modern female traveller with a vibrant and confident personality. The Hermès strap in denim blue calf leather reflects this dynamism, elegantly underlining the Tonda Hémisphères Globo's modernity, the signature of this collection.

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Technical Specifications

TONDA HÉMISPHÈRES STEEL SET IVORY

References : PFC231-0060700-HC2822

MOVEMENT
Minute repeater & large date movement sounding the hours,
Quarter-hours and minutes
Calibre : PF337
Power reserve: 50 hours
Winding: Automatic
Dimensions: 15 ¾''' – Ø 35.60 mm
Thickness: 5.1 mm mm
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28’800 A/h
Barrel(s): 2 series-coupled barrels
Jewels: 38
Components: 316
Decoration: "Côtes de Genève", bevelled bridges
FUNCTIONS 
Date indication at 9 o'clock
Central hours and minutes
Small second at 6 o'clock
Day/night at 6 o'clock
Second time zone hour / minute at 12 o'clock
Barrel(s): 2nd time zone day/night indication at 1.30
CASE
Shape: 3-part round case
Dimensions: Ø 42 mm
Thickness: 11.15 mm mm
Material: Steel
Finishing: Polished
Bezel:
    Diamonds: 80
    Carats: 0.8416
Water resistance: 30 m
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown: Ø 5.5 mm & Ø 7 mm
Back: Sapphire
Back engraving: Individual number
DIAL
Colour: Ivory color
Index: Rhodium plated appliques with luminescent coating
Finishing: Opaline
Hands: Delta-shaped with luminescent coating
BRACELET
Brand: Hermès
Material: Calf
Colour: Bleu Jean
BUCKLE
Type: Folding

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