Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Ulysse Nardin – Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon















Ulysse NardinExceptional Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

The quintessence of mechanical technology timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel, this new model incorporates the constant Ulysse Anchor Escapement, a constant force escapement with a design that breaks completely with the traditional watchmaking approach. A break-away current, the kind of waters where Ulysse Nardin loves to sail.

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Driven by the unending quest for innovation that makes it one of the most dynamic Manufactures, in 2015 Ulysse Nardin dropped a new marker buoy on the capricious ocean of fine watchmaking. An undisputed world first, the new Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon is the quintessence of avant-garde mechanical technology, timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel. The outcome of eight years of research and development, the constant Ulysse Anchor escapement, made entirely of silicium, displays hitherto unknown architecture based on the principle of flexible mechanisms exploiting the elasticity of flat springs.

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This device, the culmination of the development work on the prototype version presented in 2014, represents the height of timekeeping sophistication today: first, no longer constrained by a pivoting staff, the pallet fork moves entirely without friction; second, the geometrical improvements made to the pallet fork, the escape wheel and the flat springs have resulted in a constant-force escapement; and to crown all of this, this new coinage in watchmaking is brought aboard in a tourbillon cage, the peak of traditional expertise.

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Ulysse Nardin has always been driven by a pioneering spirit: in 2001, the Manufacture was the first to develop an escapement made of silicium; it was the first to test a diamond balance spring in 2002; the first to use silicium for its Dual Ulysse escapement – a phenomenon in its own right – in 2005; the first to fit a watch with a diamond escapement, also in 2005; and lastly, the first to use silicium as a kernel for growing diamonds, DIAMonSIL.

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In collaboration with Sigatec, a co-owned company specializing in the production of silicium micro-components, the Le Locle-based company spent no less than eight years perfecting this mechanism, which today appears to be a paradigm shift in the approach to mechanical watchmaking. Challenging the principle of the traditional Swiss anchor escapement, the new constant Ulysse Anchor escapement features a circular frame with a pallet fork fixed in the center, supported in space on two blade springs less than a tenth of the thickness of a hair in diameter. Mounted perpendicular to each other, these are subjected to a bending force that curves them and maintains them in a bi-stable state.

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This complex structure, made entirely of silicium thanks to the DRIE deep etching technique, exploits the physical capacity of blade springs to become distorted along the left-right axis while remaining perfectly rigid along the up-down axis, thus reproducing the kinetic functions of a pivot. The impulse that issues from each alternation of the balance wheel thus transmits its energy to the blades, which snap from one stable state to the other, very much like a snap hair-clip. The pallet arms thus pivot backwards and forwards about a pallet staff that is purely virtual, without generating any frictional forces.

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But the best is yet to come: the redesigned pallet fork now possesses an integral resetting face. As the tooth of the escape wheel slides along this surface as far as the banking face, it will bring the pallet fork back every time to within just 3° of the center line – that is, the imaginary straight line between the center of the balance wheel and the center of the escape wheel which defines the system's equilibrium limit.

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Thus the effort that the balance wheel has to exert to push the pallet fork as far as its tipping point is less than the effort that is restored to it immediately afterwards by the bending of the blade springs. In this way, this positive energy balance is able to maintain the oscillations of the balance wheel at a constant rate. In fact, this interplay of forces is not influenced by the motor torque injected into the escape wheel, which only starts to move once the pallet fork has switched over.

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In a final touch of artistry, this astonishing construction is housed in a 60-seconds tourbillon, whose cage comprises 35 components but weighs no more than 0.4 grams.

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With its constant amplitude, irrespective of how much the two series-mounted spring barrels are wound, this exceptional oscillating mechanism is a major step forward in the field of chronometric accuracy. Visible through a large opening in the dial at 6 o'clock, it is encircled by the indication of its power reserve of at least 7 days on a 140° arc.

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This caliber UN-178 is housed in a rose gold or white gold case in the Classico collection. A setting with traditional lines enhanced with a white Grand Feu enamel dial created by the unrivaled expertise of Donzé Cadrans, a dial-making specialist company owned by Ulysse Nardin.

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Available in two limited editions of 18 pieces each, the Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon will be in the retailers' display windows from May.
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Technical specifications

Model: Exceptional Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon 
Carrousel Flying Tourbillon

Reference: 1780-133  18ct White Gold
Reference: 1786-133  18ct Rose Gold

Limited Edition: to 18 pieces

Movement:
Caliber UN-178
Manufacture Tourbillon
29 jewels, 18’000 V/H 
Power reserve: 7 days, slip-spring
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 v/h)
Moment of Inertia: 8 mg cm2, adjusting over 4 screws
Hairspring: Silicium, exclusive Ulysse Nardin design
Escapement: 
Constant Ulysse Anchor Escapement in silicium
Orbite: 1 revolution in one hour
Winding: Manual winding
Functions:
Hours and minutes, power reserve indicator 
Case:
18ct Rose gold or white gold
Dial: Grand Feu Enamel
Diameter: 44 mm
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel
Crown: Water-resistant. Screw-down security crown.
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Open case back with sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Strap:
Leather with simple buckle

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Tuesday, April 7, 2015

SEIKO – Prospex Marinemaster Collection













SEIKO Prospex Marinemaster Collection NEW

Baselworld 2015
Prospex Marinemaster celebrates
50 years of Seiko’s diver’s watch excellence

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It was in 1965 that Seiko made its first ever diver’s watch. Half a century on, the list of Seiko’s achievements in this most challenging of arenas for watchmakers is long and distinguished. From the first use of a titanium case for a diver’s watch to the invention of the accordion-style strap and the two layer case to the design of dial markers and hands of unparalleled legibility, Seiko has been a pioneer in the field, and we are proud that the ISO 6425 standard was developed with Seiko’s own standard as its base. Today, Seiko’s diver’s watches are the world’s benchmark for excellence.

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Ref. RLS1503-03

Two new 2015 Marinemaster models offer new advances

The Marinemaster series has long been renowned for the security and precision that the professional diver requires. Two new timepieces in the Marinemaster series embody the very best of Seiko’s 50 years of experience in serving the needs of divers and once again push back the boundaries of diver’s watch technology.

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The Marinemaster Professional 1000m Diver’s

Like its 1975 predecessor, the new Marinemaster Professional 1000m Diver's has the two-layer case construction that is now the trademark of Seiko’s professional diver’s watches. Thanks to the strength of the inner case structure, the specially designed L-shaped gasket and the screw-down glass fixing ring, the watch is effectively impermeable to helium and can be safely used for saturation diving to great depths.







































The use of ceramic for the outer shell enhances shock resistance and also prevents any unintentional rotation of the bezel. In September 2014, Seiko professional diver’s watches of the same case construction were subjected to the most extreme test imaginable. Affixed to the exterior hull of KAIKO 7000 II, a remotely operated undersea research vehicle, they performed perfectly down to a depth of 3,000m.
wikipedia.org - Kaiko 

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This new creation incorporates a mechanical caliber specially adjusted for a diver’s watch. The movement is caliber 8L35 and it is made and assembled, as is the complete watch, by Seiko’s leading craftsmen at the Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio. The hands and markers are coated with a new version of Seiko’s Lumibrite, which glows for 60% longer than in the past. The strap is made of extra-strength silicone for greater durability.

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Technical specifications
Model: Marinemaster Professional 1000m Diver’s (Ref. SBDX014)  
Movement
Caliber 8L35
Driving system: Automatic with manual-winding mechanism
Vibration: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second)
Power reserve: Approximately 50 hours
Number of jewels: 26 jewels
Case
Titanium with rose-gold color and black hard coating and ceramic case
One-piece case structure (no-case-back construction)
Sapphire crystal with anti-fogging coating
Screw-down crown
Water resistance 1,000m for saturation diving.
Magnetic resistance 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 48.2mm, Thickness: 17.4mm
Band
Extra-strength silicone strap
Price
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: Euro 3,450
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The Marinemaster Professional 1000m Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition

This is a diver’s watch worthy of a fifty year anniversary. Its design echoes that of Seiko’s very first hi-beat diver’s watch from the 1960’s, but its specifications are the most advanced in the field. It has a one-piece titanium case and, thanks to this, the L-shaped gasket and other features, it is impermeable to helium and suitable for saturation diving. The rotating bezel is securely fixed to the case with four screws next to the 12 and 6 o’clock positions.

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Ref. SBEX001G

It has the new Lumibrite for enhanced legibility. The 8L55 movement is specially optimized and adapted for use in a diver’s watch with this structure. This caliber beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 55 hours, and it is also assembled by Seiko’s leading craftsmen at the Shizuku-ishi Watch studio. Each watch comes with both a titanium bracelet with extender, and a black extra-strength silicone strap. Offered in a special presentation box, just 700 pieces will be made, each with its own serial number.

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Technical specifications
Model: Marinemaster Professional 1,000m Diver’s Hi-Beat Limited Edition (Ref. SBEX001)
Movement
Caliber 8L55
Driving system: Automatic with manual-winding mechanism
Vibration: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)
Power reserve: Approximately 55 hours
Number of jewels: 37 jewels
Case
Titanium case with super-hard coating
One-piece case structure (no-case-back construction)
Sapphire crystal with anti-fogging coating
Screw-down crown
Water resistance 1,000m for saturation diving.
Magnetic resistance 16,000 A/m
Diameter: 48.2mm, Thickness: 19.7mm
Band
Titanium with super-hard coating,
three-fold clasp with push button release with secure lock and slide adjuster
A black extra-strength silicone strap is included.
Price
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: Euro 6,400
Edition
Limited Edition of 700 pcs
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Prospex Kinetic GMT for land sports

Launched internationally at Baselworld 2014, Prospex has already taken its place at the very center of Seiko’s collection. Prospex offers a range of watches that meet the challenge of delivering precision and reliability in even the most adverse conditions. Prospex is built to perform and built to endure the stresses of sports in the sea, in the air and, new for 2015, on land. The new land sports model is perfect for mountaineering and adventuring of all kinds.

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Ref. SUN049

The Kinetic GMT movement offers one-second-a-day precision and the security of never needing a battery change. The cushion-shaped case is robust and allows for easy use of the rotating bezel, which carries a compass for secure and rapid orientation.

Technical specifications
Model: Prospex Kinetic GMT for land sports (Ref. SUN049)
Movement
Caliber 5M85, Kinetic GMT
Powered by the movement of your body
Power reserve: Approximately 6 months
Power reserve indication at the press of a button
GMT hand with easy hour hand adjustment function
Instant-start function
Accuracy: +/-15 seconds per month (at temperatures between 5℃and 35℃)
Case
Stainless steel case with black hard coating
Screw see-through case back, Screw-down crown
Water resistance 10 Bar
Diameter: 45.6mm
Band
Stainless steel, three-fold clasp with push button release with secure lock
Price
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: Euro 410

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The history of Seiko diver’s watches


























































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SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION
Mr­­ Noboru­­ Miyadera
2-8-10, Toranomon, Minato-ku,
Tokyo­­ 105-8467
Japan
Telephone+81 3 6739 2150
Telefax+81 3 6739 2071
seiko-pr@seiko-watch.co.jp
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