Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Ulysse Nardin – FreakLab















Ulysse NardinExceptional FreakLab Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

The Freak is back and more of a champion than ever. Uncluttered, with the balance wheel recentered and equipped with a date function for the first time, this masterpiece now incorporates the UlyChoc safety system, a new generation of shock absorbers.

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Born out of determination to continuously push the boundaries of watchmaking, the Freak collection has brought together the boldest innovations of the past fourteen years, originating both from Ulysse Nardin and the watchmaking industry as a whole. Thus the Freak was the first watch to incorporate a silicium escapement in 2001, a diamond escapement in 2005 and the Dual Ulysse escapement the same year. As stunning as ever with the bold nautical character of its Tourbillon using an anchor and sail as hands, the new FreakLab is easily legible and features the date at 4 o'clock. On the technological side, it is for the first time equipped with the UlyChoc safety system, a new generation of shock protection devices.

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The Freak's avant-garde design remains unrivalled to this day. With neither dial nor hands, it is constructed so that the movement turns about its own axis. Connected together at the center of this unusual ship, the lower deck thus displays the hours, while the upper deck – which carries the gear train, the balance-wheel and balance-spring unit and the exclusive Dual Ulysse silicium escapement – shows the minutes.

Movement Caliber UN-205
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The Dual Ulysse escapement also marks a significant technical advance: it has abandoned the traditional pallet fork and escape wheel. Two silicium impulse wheels, each with eighteen active, meshing teeth, alternately activate a stopper which transmits its energy directly to the balance staff, first in one direction, then in the other. Thus this mechanism, which requires no lubrication, always delivers its force in the direction of the rotation of the balance wheel, minimizing friction.

Movement Caliber UN-205
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On the new FreakLab, the entire floating upper bridge has been completely redesigned. First, the gear train has been made smaller in order to reposition the balance-wheel and balance-spring at the center of the movement. This operation lightened the dial and made it easier to read the hours. At the same time, the oscillating unit has been equipped with UlyChoc shock absorbers, entirely designed, developed and produced in-house.

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 UlyChoc security system

A classical system comprises five micro-elements: the block, the setting, the jewel, the counterpivot and the spring. With simplification in mind and special focus on efficiency, Ulysse Nardin replaced three of these functions with a single one-piece component made of silicium, a genuine world first which is the subject of a patent application. This solution avoids forces of play and friction, enabling the balance staff to be perfectly recentered in the event of an impact.

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 UlyChoc security system

Flaunting more of a corsair facade than ever, with an anchor to show the hours and a bridge representing a sail for the minutes, the FreakLab is phenomenally easy to manipulate. A safety clip between the horns at 6 o'clock frees the rotating bezel sculpted in the shape of waves.

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This is used to set the hours and minutes when rotated clockwise, and the date when rotated anticlockwise. And the mainspring barrel – designed for a power reserve of more than seven days – is wound by the other bezel. Thus the two bezels, front and back, are constituent parts of the movement.

 Movement Caliber UN-210

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Technical specifications

Model: Exceptional FreakLab Tourbillon 8 days Carrousel Flying Tourbillon "Dual Ulysse"

Reference: 2100-138  18ct White Gold

Limited Edition: to 100 pieces

Movement:
Caliber UN-210, XX jewels.
Manual-winding 8 days carrousel,
Flying tourbillon,"Dual Ulysse" escapement. 
Movement indicates the time and the date
1 Hour Tourbillon
UlyChoc security system on regulating organ
Power reserve: 7 days, slip-spring
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 v/h)
Moment of Inertia: 8 mg cm2, adjusting over 4 screws
Hairspring: Silicium, exclusive Ulysse Nardin design
Escapement: 
Exclusive Dual Ulysse escapement in silicium, non-lubricated
Orbite: 1 revolution in one hour
Winding: Manual winding over the back of the case;
1 full rotation is equivalent to 12 hours of power reserve
Functions:
Hours, minutes, isplayed by the rotation of the movement
Date
Time Setting: Unlock device and turn bezel forward
Date Setting: Counter clockwise rotation of the time setting bezel
Case:
18ct White Gold.
Dial: Black
Diameter: 45 mm
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel
Crown: Water-resistant. Screw-down security crown.
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Open case back with sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Strap:
Exclusive Black Alligator strap 

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Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Bell & Ross – WW1 Edicion Limitada
















Bell &RossVintage WW1 Edicion Limitada NEW

BASELWORLD 2015
A COLLECTOR’S WATCH FOR
CIGAR LOVERS

Bell & Ross has created its new Vintage WW1 Edición Limitada with the idea of capturing the art of enjoying exceptional moments.


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The colour scheme of the watch displays shades of brown that immediately evoke the iconic browns of Cuban cigars, in a design that skilfully combines the worlds of watchmaking and cigars. The roundness of the case and the style of the dial bring to mind the shape and colour of a cigar. The subtleness of the lugs, and the design of the Arabic numerals covered with gold dust arouse a vintage atmosphere that is reminiscent of the traditional craftsmanship of cigars.

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With a diameter of 42 mm, the case is joined to the strap with fine wire lugs that hark back to the first wristwatches, the direct descendants of the pocket watches from which the Vintage WW1 Edición Limitada takes its curving lines and the purity of form. The deep reflections of the red gold combine elegantly with the brown of the dial and the strap. The narrow alligator leather strap and the gilded hands contribute to the elegance and refinement of the design. As a final nod to Cuba, the words on the dial are written in Spanish.

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A HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATION
FOR SAVOURING TIME ...

Because time is easily forgotten when you’re enjoying yourself, Bell & Ross has chosen to equip its new Vintage WW1 Edición Limitada with a movement with a large power reserve. The manual winding mechanism is armed with a double barrel that provides power for up to five days of operation. On the dial, a hand that travels in a slow arc with the inscription “reserva de marcha 5 días”, indicates the wearer how many days are left before the watch requires winding.

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Any cigar lover knows that behind its apparent simplicity, a cigar is the result of a complex and careful process of assembly. The heart (or “filler”) is made with tobacco leaves that come from different parts of the plant, and it is bounded or enclosed by another leave called «binder». Finally, these are covered by the wrapper, a large leaf that is the outermost layer of the cigar and give it its colour, due to its long period of fermentation.

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Just as a “torcedor” knows all the secrets to cigar making, a watchmaker knows that the smooth running of a watch relies on the craft behind its precise mechanism. The Vintage WW1 Edición Limitada has an opening in the dial that allows a view of its mechanism. The movement of the balance is also visible, whilst ensuring that the indications remain readable.

On the reverse of the watch, a transparent sapphire back reveals the beauty of the mechanism, particularly that of the three- quarter main plate and the bridge of the balance. Bevelling, a Côtes de Genève finish and blued screws complete the aesthetic of the mechanism.

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With this limited edition of 99 watches dedicated to cigar lovers, Bell & Ross once again demonstrates its watchmaking skills.

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A HUMIDOR AS A PRESENTATION CASE

To enhance this meeting between the worlds of cigars and watches, Bell & Ross has chosen to present the watch in a case of Makassar ebony, which can be transformed into a humidor with a humidifier and a hygrometer. This case holds up to 50 cigars and is made out of the rare and precious kaya wood. Its colour palette compliments that of the Vintage WW1 Edición Limitada.

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Technical Features

Model: Vintage WW1 Edicion Limitada  of 99 Pieces

Ref:  BRWW1-GRM-PG

Movement
Bell & Ross Hand-wound mechanical:
Calibre BR-CAL.202.
34 jewels, 28,800 vph.
Movement with double barrel, with a 5-day power reserve.
Angled bridges with Côtes de Genève finishes centred on the balance.
Blued screws.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds.
Power reserve indicator at 5 o’clock.
Case:
42 mm in diameter.
18 ct red gold (5N).
Gold weight: 33.7 g (case+crown), buckle 6.5 g.
Sapphire case-back.
Dial
Brown; curved.
Curved minute and seconds hands.
Powdered gold numerals.
Balance visible at 9 o’clock.
Glass:
Ultra-curved high-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. 
Water-resistance: 50 m
Strap
Brown alligator.
Clasp:
Pin buckle.
18 ct red gold (5N)
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