Tuesday, July 22, 2014

RICHARD MILLE – RM 56-02 SAPHIR Tourbillon
















RICHARD MILLERM 056-02 SAPHIR Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

At Richard Mille, the fact that a tremendous challenge has been won is never a valid reason to stand still and be complacent. The introduction of the RM 056 Sapphire Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph three years ago was a watchmaking milestone of technical achievement; never before had such a complex case design for such an intricate movement been manufactured in pure sapphire. This debut was followed by the RM 56-01, which put the stakes even higher with a baseplate, bridges and third wheel additionally created from sapphire. Today, a cutting-edge expression of horological transparency created expressly for the Watches & Wonders event in Hong Kong is presented with the magnificent RM 56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon and its new movement, taking cues from the mechanical architecture of the RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal and its cable suspended movement. By incorporating this cabled movement design within a world of transparent sapphire, an ultimate expression of weightlessness and transparency is evoked within the world of extreme horology.

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In this fashion the baseplate of the RM 56-02, created from grade 5 titanium, is entirely suspended within the sapphire watchcase by specially developed single braided cable of only 0.35mm thickness, woven within a system of 4 pulleys on posts at the movement’s corners and another 6 pulleys placed along the movement’s periphery. The tension of the cable is perfectly controlled by a miniature ratchet at 9 o’clock. This entire cable unit is attached to a separate indicator located below 12 o’clock allowing an easy visual inspection of the cable tension, to ensure that it is always operating within the designated norms.

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Other parts of the movement have also been optimized for transparency thanks to the experience gained with the aforementioned versions; in this case Richard Mille’s engineers have added to the previous use of sapphire movement parts a new design of winding barrel bridge, tourbillon and center bridges in sapphire. This fluently executed technical challenge is a crowning achievement of the sapphire family of timepieces within the high scaled variety of creativity to be found within the Richard Mille collection as an entity.

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Sapphire, created from subjecting aluminum oxide crystals (Al2O3) to high pressure and temperature environments, is transparent due to the purity of its composition and has a hardness of 1800 Vickers (9 Moh’s) making it virtually scratch resistant by materials other than diamond. The tripartite case of the RM 56-02 is milled and ground from blocks of solid sapphire by the prestigious and highly specialized experts Stettler in Lyss, Switzerland, who had the difficult task of creating these movement parts and the unique, wrist hugging, ergonomically curving tripartite Richard Mille case. These engineering and technical challenges are self evident when we examine the reality of creating something inimitable like the RM 56-02: 40 days, 24/7 of continuous machining are required in order to produce one case followed by 400 hours of machining and finishing for the different movement bridges.

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The case of the RM 56-02, with anti-glare protection on both front and back bezels, is waterproof to 30 meters thanks to the utilization of two transparent nitrile O-rings assembled with 24 spline screws in grade 5 titanium. The partially translucent strap created from Aerospace Nano® by Biwi SA, exclusively for Richard Mille, provides a silky and almost organic responsiveness to the skin that perfectly complements the exquisite ergonomic perfection of the RM 56-02 on the wrist.

The RM 56-02 will be released in a limited edition of 10 examples worldwide.


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Technical specifications

Model: RM 056-02 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Sapphire Chronograph
Limited Edition10 pieces

Movement:
Calibre:  Richard Mille RM056-02
Movement Type:   Manual
Functions:   
Central Hours and Minutes:
• Off-Centred Sweeping Seconds
• Tourbillon
• Split-Seconds Chronograph
• Power Reserve Indicator
• Sectorial Torque Indicator
• Mode Display (Winding, Neutral or Hour Setting)
Case:
Shape:        Tonneau
Material:     Sapphire
Diameter:   50.50 x 42.70 mm
Тhickness:  19.25 mm
Case Back: Transparent
Dial:    Skeletonized
Bezel:    Sapphire
Water Resistance:  3 ATM or 30 meters
Bracelet:   White Rubber

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Monday, July 21, 2014

Ulysse Nardin – Jazz Minute Repeater














Ulysse NardinExceptional Jazz Minute Repeater Limited Edition NEW

Uniting traditional watch making with the fine art of hand-engraved Jaquemarts is “Jazz,” the new Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin. A limited edition of 18 pieces in platinum, Jazz delivers a vivid design performance of this genre’s unmatched dynamism.

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 “It’s all music,” once described the legendary Duke Ellington about Jazz. And so it is, spanning more than a rhythmic century in existence with many names along the way, from ragtime to swing, bebop to Dixieland, blues to ska. Brought to the stage by African Americans in the early 1900s, fusing African-based music with European harmony and form elements, Jazz is a vivacious and complex type of music that is not clearly defined, and certainly not constrained. It beats strong across continents and cultures with versatility and change, connecting with its listeners’ for a truly visceral experience.

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Demonstrating its spirited essence is the workmanship of the Jaquemarts, or animated figures that move in sync with the activated minute repeater. An art form that is consistently refined, hand-engraved Jaquemarts remain a rarity in watch making today. In fact, Ulysse Nardin is among the rare manufacture in the world to incorporate Jaquemarts on the dial of its minute repeaters.
For the Jazz Minute Repeater, the artist applied 18-carat gold “musicians” to a genuine black onyx dial. From their performance space, they play with enthusiasm to their audience. When the minute repeater lever is activated, the hours, quarters and minutes, or a combination of these units, chime, and the band begins its show, playing along with the time.

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As much a chiming instrument as it is a timekeeper, the minute repeater is universally considered one of the most difficult watches to create. Ulysse Nardin was one of the first haute horology brands to fuel its rebirth. A labor of love and remarkable skill, the real challenge in the creation of the minute repeater lies in the ability to harness and project superior sound quality. Despite modern technology, the song of a repeater – or the melodic magic within – is dependent on the human ear and must be individually tuned, and often re-cased, by a master watch maker.
For the connoisseur, a minute repeater is a dream come true, for time is not only seen, but it is also heard.

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Pairing classic and niche elements in watch making with the aesthetic interpretation of an iconic music form, the new Jazz Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin is a symbol of excellence and originality in perfect harmony.

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Technical specifications

Model: Jazz Minute Repeater

Reference: 749-88   Limited Edition18 pieces

Movement   Manual winding movement Caliber UN-74
Power-Reserve   Approx. 36 h
Winding   Manual winding
Functions   Jaquemarts Minute Repeater. Chiming hours, quarters and m inutes
   Two chimes
Jewels   32 jewels
Case-back   Sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Diameter    42mm
Case    Platinum 950 case
Dial    Black onyx dial, with animated musicians in 18-carat gold
Crown    Water-resistant
Water-resistant    30 meters
Strap    Alligator strap, with folding buckle

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