Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Ulysse Nardin – Anchor Escapement
















Ulysse Nardin – Anchor Escapement

There’s been the flying tourbillon and now there’s the flying anchor. The revolutionary new escapement, based on flexible mechanisms using the elasticity of materials, does away with the pallet staff.

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At Ulysse Nardin, innovation is not only the price of independence; it’s the very reason for the brand’s existence. The Le Locle manufacturing company, which has been at the forefront of research and development since it was founded in 1846, has not only made its mark on its own history, but on that of mechanical watchmaking as a whole. The new Ulysse Anchor Escapement reveals a hitherto unknown construction that tests the physical limits of materials. The silicon device, based on the principle of flexible materials, uses the elasticity of blade springs to dispense with the pivot of the pallet arms leaving them literally suspended in space. It’s truly revolutionary.

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Ulysse Nardin’s timeline is punctuated by inventions and world firsts. As early as 1862, the company’s founder secured the Holy Grail at the London Universal Exhibition — the Prize Medal in the complicated watch category. The award not only attested to the excellence of its marine and pocket-chronometers, it also heralded the pioneering spirit of the brand in the 21st century: the first to develop a silicon escapement in 2001; the first to produce a diamond balance-spring in 2002, and in 2005, the first to offer an escapement without the traditional pallets and pallet-wheel. Instead the Dual Ulysse in silicon has two impulse wheels. The same year Ulysse Nardin presented the first watch with a diamond escapement and, one year later, the first Diamond Coated Silicon (DiamonSil) escapement. Here again, Ulysse Nardin was the first to use silicon as a matrix on which to grow diamond crystal.

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After seven years of research, development and improvements with Sigatec, a co-owned company specialised in silicon micro-components, Ulysse Nardin is now in a position to present what appears to be a paradigm change in the approach to mechanical watchmaking.

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Overturning the traditional principle of the Swiss lever escapement, the new Ulysse Anchor Escapement features a circular silicon frame in which the pallet arms are suspended by two buckled blades — meaning curved under tension — one perpendicular to the other. This complex device relies on the physical property of blade springs to bend along one axis while remaining perfectly rigid along others, so as to reproduce the kinetic functions of a pivot.

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The impulse, given at each semi-oscillation of the balance, transmits its energy to the blades, which snap from one stable state to another, very much like a snap hair clip. The pallet arms, without a pallet staff, thus pivot from side to side without generating friction. Better still, when it returns to its original position, the system gives back its stored energy with virtually no loss. Finally, the construction, which dispenses with the bridge for the pallet lever since it no longer pivots on a shaft, results in a slimmer movement.

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This sophisticated mechanism, which should come into operation this year, opens new and unexplored opportunities for Ulysse Nardin.

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Monday, April 7, 2014

SPEAKE-MARIN – Velsheda

















SPEAKE-MARINJ Class Velsheda  NEW

Velsheda features a single polished steel, blued hand to indicate time, while two continually changing superimposed ‘topping tool’ motifs create eye-catching patterns in the centre of the dial.

Named after the iconic British “J Class” yacht built in the 1930s and still racing today, Velsheda offers a minimalist display of time using a single polished steel, blued hand.


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While the solitary hand extends across the diameter of the dial, its central hub is in the form of the Speake-Marin topping tool logo, as is the central seconds wheel sitting above it.

The rotation of the seconds wheel on top of the slower moving hub of the hand creates ever-changing, eye-catching patterns, drawing the eye to the centre of Velsheda’s dial.


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The blued hand and topping tool motifs contrast beautifully against the elegant white lacquer, multi-level dial. The sides of the highly legible Roman numerals taper towards the centre, a subtle but significant detail endowing the dial with its dynamic, contemporary feel.

The sumptuously sculpted hand is neatly counterbalanced by a pointer at one end and an arc at the other; coupled with the fine 5-minute graduations around the peripheral chapter ring they create an overall aesthetic echoing that of a marine compass.


This seafaring visual aspect is fitting since Velsheda’s name is inspired by the marine world: The yacht Velsheda was designed for racing and in the 1930s was one of the most technically advanced sloops of her day.


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This nautical feel is strengthened by the stainless steel Piccadilly case featuring a fluted, two-position crown (manual winding and time-setting with hacking seconds).

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  Peter Speake-Marin says: “The shape of the Speake-Marin Piccadilly case is inspired by early marine chronometers. For me, the case is a means of clothing the movement, just as it was with those traditional maritime instruments.”

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Velsheda’s Eros calibre is an automatic winding movement, featuring a long, five-day power reserve and the signature Speake-Marin ‘mystery’ rotor. The large-diameter movement dominates the view through the display-back and provides a technical backdrop for the beautifully finished rotor.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Speake-Marin J Class Velsheda 

REFERENCE PIC.10022
MOVEMENT Calibre Eros, hand finished automatic-winding mechanical movement
INDICATIONS Central hours, minutes and seconds wheel
JEWELLING 35 jewels
POWER RESERVE 4 to 5 days
FREQUENCY 28,800 v.p.h / 4Hz
CASE Iconic Piccadilly case in stainless steel
Front and back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating
DIAMETER 42 mm
WATER RESISTANCE 3 bar (30 meters)
DIAL Multi-layered, white-lacquered dial
Black Roman numeral hour and minute markers
Speake-Marin name at 12 o’clock
HANDS Single central heat-blued hand
STRAP Hand-made, natural alligator leather strap
BUCKLE Pin buckle, stainless steel

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