Friday, January 10, 2014

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet















GIRARD-PERREGAUX –  Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet NEW



A steel bracelet for the Chrono Hawk collection

The Chrono Hawk line is now available with a stainless steel bracelet in a design and perfect finish that once again demonstrates Girard-Perregaux’s excellence.

The new bracelet of Girard-Perregaux’s Chrono Hawk line instills power and elegance into this resolutely masculine range. Its links form a pattern of remarkable purity and their lines epitomize contemporary watch design. This aesthetic is matched by equally advanced technical qualities, honing the multiple connections between these steel parts for optimum comfort when wearing.

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This new bracelet has a distinctive functional geometric style combining two types of links ; the first type generates a powerful line running along the middle, while the second surrounds the first. Subtly interwoven, they also exhibit alternating polished and satin finishes on the two outer bevels of the central links.

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The fusion between these two types of links forms a finely balanced and well-proportioned ribbon, making a perfect fit with the strong lines of the Hawk

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Collection’s watch cases. The bracelet closes easily with a secure folding clasp and features a micro-adjustment system to ensure wearing comfort. Finally, it is interchangeable with the rubber version and can be ordered separately.

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 The Hawk collection honors more than 130 years of technical watchmaking tradition, tracing back to 1880, when the Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds provided specially designed watches for the German Navy. Directly descended from the Sea Hawk line, launched in 1940 and adapted for diving in 1970, and the Laureato, a sport model introduced in 1975, the Chrono Hawk has both sleek and sporty lines.

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Its asymmetric case formed of successive planes is the mark of its modern character, unparalleled in high-end watchmaking. It is topped by a bezel divided into two parts, one circular and the other octagonal, creating a unique visual effect. The technical dial, perfectly legible and built on several levels, is decorated with a pattern using the shape of the famous Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Bridge. In this all-steel version, it is available in two colors: silver and metallic blue. Inside, the exclusive mechanical self-winding caliber GP03300 displays hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph function.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Ref: 49970-11-431-11A (metallic blue dial)
Ref: 49970-11-133-11A (silver dial)
Case
Case: steel
Diameter: 44.00 mm
Height : 15,45 mm
Crystal:
anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back:
sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance:
100 meters (10 ATM)
Calibre    
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300
Mechanical, self-winding movement
GP3300-0074 (metallic blue dial)
GP3300-0075 (silver dial)
Diameter: 30.00 mm (13 ’’’)
Frequency:
28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve:
min. 46 hours
Jewels:
61
Functions:
hour, minute, date, small second, chronograph
Steel bracelet
Steel folding buckle micro-adjustable

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Thursday, January 9, 2014

Greubel Forsey – Platinum GMT

















GREUBEL FORSEY GF05 Platinum GMT NEW

The Platinum GMT by Greubel Forsey

In 2011, Greubel Forsey revolutionized the field of GMT (dual time zone) watches with their innovative timepiece and its original technique, aesthetics and practicality. Its exceptional precision movement, featuring the 24-second tourbillon with 25° inclination, now comes set against a platinum backdrop.

The acronym ‘GMT’, or Greenwich Mean Time, the benchmark meridian time, refers in watchmaking  terminology to a (dual or) second time zone indicator. Driven by a spirit of research, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have gone well beyond this conventional time zone display using a window or a hand, by incorporating into their timepiece a terrestrial globe completing each anti-clockwise rotation in 24h - the same direction in which our planet spins.

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This planisphere presents all the global time zones in real time from the perspective of the North Pole where they converge.  All the information can be viewed at a single glance. It is midday in the United Kingdom, and the beginning of the afternoon in Rome or Geneva. The eastern coast of the United States will soon be awakened by the early sunlight, while the Orient is still immersed in darkness… Our first contact with the timepiece offers an epic transcontinental journey. The GMT  by Greubel Forsey  is  much more  than  a  watch. It has evolved into a portable time map.

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A lateral window set in the case offers a viewpoint over the Southern Hemisphere. The South Pole does not appear since it is the anchor point of the globe, which houses a “flying” pivot system. Greubel Forsey chose titanium, engraved with extreme precision in three dimensions to represent the continents in miniature.

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The globe stands  prominent at 8 o'clock, while the 24-second Tourbillon also protrudes at 5o'clock. The platinum case has a third protrusion at 1 o'clock: the main time indications are clearly displayed, overlaid in a cascade across this area of the dial side , with a small seconds at 2 o'clock and then a sectorial power reserve indicator at 3 o'clock. At 10 o'clock is the GMT display for the second time zone.

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The  back of  the  timepiece displays universal time  for 24  time  zones, through an  original rotating  disc. This bears the names of 24 cities, and providing a particularly legible display, light-colored cartouches differentiating summer time (for cities which follow this system). As a final touch, a symbolic midday sun at the zenith of the world time disc illuminates the case-back, leaving centre stage of the dial side to the Earth.

Naturally, and in this too we can recognize the "Greubel Forsey signature", the utmost care is taken with the decoration of the components, down to the smallest details. The hand finishes take in the entire range of traditional techniques, from frosting to hand-bevelling, as well as the subtleties of hand-polishing, lapping, and straight graining with flat black polished finishes. The domed crystal, the case-back and lateral window are made from sapphire crystal. The hand-stitched black alligator strap has a platinum folding clasp. A magnificent demonstration of expertise harnessed for the pursuit of fine craftsmanship.

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Technical Specifications

The GMT calibre is powered by two barrels providing a 72-h power reserve with a frequency  of 21,600 vibrations/hour. 
The calibre comprises 443 components. 
It features a 24-second tourbillon with 25° inclination, comprising 87 components for a total weight of 0.36 g.

Besides its chronometric properties and reliability, this regulator system was adopted for its small size, which meant that a calibre diameter of 36.40 mm (16 ½ lines) could be kept.
This makes for a new medium-sized case, 43.5 mm wide with a total height of 16.14 mm.
Made  from  950 platinum,  it  has  a  slightly lighter hue than the previous white gold version.

For further information: 
Communication Department 
press@greubelforsey.com – +41 79 194 2884
Eplatures-Grise -16 P.O. Box 670 2301
La Chaux-de-Fonds- Switzerland

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Wednesday, January 8, 2014

ZENITH – El Primero 410 Chronograph















ZENITH El Primero 410 Chronograph Limited Edition NEW

                                           El Primero 410
                              In the footsteps of a legend


A movement well-known to collectors beats at the heart of the latest Zenith watch: Calibre 410. Created in 1969 as a variation of the legendary El Primero, it combines the performances of the world’s most accurate automatic chronograph with triple calendar and moonphase indications. Steadily perpetuated over the years, it now appears in a form bridging past and present, orchestrated around a display loyal to the historical model, while the case displays resolutely contemporary lines.
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While one man took a small step that proved a giant leap for mankind by walking on the moon, Zenith did much the same for watchmaking that same year. After seven years of research, the Manufacture presented El Primero, the first ever integrated automatic chronograph, also equipped with a date and a tachometric scale. It was already an impressive feat in itself, backed by exceptional precision since the calibre beat at the exceptional speed of 36,000 vibrations an hour, corresponding to 1/10th of a second precision. That same year, buoyed by the daring that has guided its steps since its founding in 1865, as confirmed by the over 300 patents registered to date, the Manufacture Zenith further rolled back the boundaries of its art by equipping its calibre – that had become an instant watch industry icon – with triple calendar and moonphase indications.

The name of this movement also born in 1969 was the El Primero 3019 PHF, later referenced as 410. Built around a column wheel and endowed with a 50-hour power reserve, like all the El Primero movements that would punctuate the Zenith collections, Calibre 410 made its way through the decades until the year 2000 thanks to remarkable reliability coupled with extraordinary precision. But icons never die, and Zenith is now reviving it in 2013 in a 500-piece limited series featuring a slate grey dial.

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From the 1970s to the 21st century

Almost half a century after its creation, El Primero Calibre 410 has evolved in various ways, including having a complete model named after it and finding its way back into the legendary El Primero collection. Introduced this year with a silver-toned dial, it reproduces the original function layout in a distinctively 1970s spirit.

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The days and months are counted off at 10 and 2 o'clock respectively, while the date remains imperturbably enthroned between 4 and 5 o’clock. Merging into the hour subdial at 6 o’clock, the moonphase depicts the revolutions of the night star through a special-shaped aperture with two rounded cut-outs reproducing the dark part of the moon. The latter thus reveals its successive phases – and faces – throughout its cycle (waxing moon, full moon, waning moon, new moon). The disc bearing two moons is driven by a 59-toothed wheel corresponding to two lunar cycles (2 x 29.5 days). This is a model that reinvents the subtlety of the moonphase function by combining technique with poetry.

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The Manufacture-made complications of El Primero Calibre 410 are fairly classic, yet nonetheless rare. While Zenith wished to preserve the authentic character of an icon 20th century icon, it has succeeded in infusing it with “that little something extra” that imparts a modern touch and makes it truly unique. Appearing in a contemporary 42 mm size, the steel case displays decidedly on-trend curves with alternating polished and brushed finishes. The round chronograph pushpieces proclaim their originality, while the snailed counters create a subtle contrast with the sunray dial motif. Rimmed by the tachometric scale on the opaline inner bezel ring, the rhodium hour-markers stand out clearly to ensure perfect readability, while the Zenith star on the tip of the blue central chronograph seconds hand flies around the dial as if to underscore its prestigious kinship with the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph. The beating pulse of an authentic Manufacture model driven by the daring spirit of the one that will forever remain “the first”, the El Primero Calibre 410 reveals its fascinating 390-part mechanism through the sapphire crystal case-back. It brings to the wrist the unique pleasure of owning an icon.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
AUTOMATIC COLUMN-WHEEL CHRONOGRAPH WITH DAY/DATE/MONTH AND MOONPHASE INDICATIONS
EL PRIMERO 410 CALIBRE: 390 COMPONENTS, 31 JEWELS & 36,000 VPH
42 MM DIAMETER CASE

500-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
MOVEMENT
El Primero 410, automatic
Calibre: 13 ¼ ‘‘‘ (Diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness: 6.60 mm
Components: 390
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishing: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date indicator between 4 and 5 o’clock
Full calendar indications (day, date, month)
Moonphase indicator
Chronograph:
– 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
– 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
– Central chronograph seconds hand
Tachometric scale
CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Stainless steel
Diameter: 42 mm
Dial opening diameter: 37.10 mm
Thickness: 12.75 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Silver-toned sunray
Hour-markers: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted
Hands: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted
REFERENCE:
03.2091.410/01.C494

Brown alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining
Stainless steel buckle with triple folding clasp

Press Release
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Monday, January 6, 2014

PRE-SIHH 2014: MALTE TOURBILLON HIGH JEWELLERY















VACHERON CONSTANTIN  – MALTE Tourbillon High Jewellery


The high-tech horology highlights the most sophisticated and delicate of all settings: the invisible setting.

Marrying different art forms, combining talents, and innovating while respecting one’s heritage: Vacheron Constantin meets these demands by honoring time with what is beautiful, precious, precise and delightful. Symbolising the cultural bridge between the arts, engineering and creative genius, Vacheron Constantin’s Malte tourbillon high jewellery brings together the magic of watchmaking and the mystery of gem-setting.

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This exceptional piece is a vibrant dedication to the Métiers d’Art, which here border on the sublime. With the invisible settings all entirely hand-crafted, it is dressed in 418 baguette diamonds (totalling approximately 19.6 carats), creating a supreme illumination of time.

Only a few artists today have mastered the technique for producing invisible diamond settings. The gold is completely hidden behind the precious stones: supported by a track, they form a field of light without any trace of fastening and, as a result, emit maximum luminosity.

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Vacheron Constantin chose to apply this technique to a shaped watch which, despite its curved profile, has edges, sharp angles and taut lines, all of which made the work much more challenging. And to accomplish this, a whole range of craftsmen, from designer to gem-setter, from watchmaker to jeweller, worked in perfect harmony, orchestrating their respective skills and motivated by the same determination to surpass themselves.
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The cutter worked on the stones one by one, to the nearest micron, so that the jewel-setter was able to fit them perfectly into the place prepared for them. The precision required for such an exacting task meant that over 100 hours of goldsmithing work went into creating this wondrous composition of diamonds.

With the gold completely hidden by the gems, the watch becomes a sculpture in diamonds: lugs, bezel, case middle, dial, buckle, every single element shimmers with light, from the crown to the emblematic Maltese cross.

The Malte tourbillon high jewellery model also meets the new criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva. Instated in 1886 by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva, the Hallmark of Geneva is a guarantee of origin, of craftsmanship, of durability and of expertise. This unique quality label has undergone at the end of 2011 a fundamental transformation, since the certification no longer concerns the calibre alone, but the timepiece as a whole. This new approach represents a major evolution of this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and which has just decided to respond more fully than ever before to the legitimate expectations of an ever more informed clientele.

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The 2795 calibre, a perfect example of the Manufacture’s expertise

Such an exceptional watch deserved an equally exceptional movement, and this model is duly equipped with mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795, comprising 169 parts and endowed with an almost two-day power reserve.
This new tonneau-shaped movement – making a perfect fit with the case – is entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture. The tourbillon carriage is inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross, and magnificently showcases the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles.

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The rounding off of the tourbillon bar, which always represents a significant technical challenge, calls for over 12 hours of manual work in order to meet the finishing criteria demanded by Vacheron Constantin. Rounding off consists of filing each end of the arms in order to give them a conical or semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the centre and the heels. To finalise this operation, the craftsmen rub it down with stones, buffs, wooden pegs and finishing pastes in order to achieve a perfectly polished effect.


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The exceptional character of the 2795 calibre is underscored by its côtes de Genève decoration, meticulous hand-chamfering of the bar edges, and engraved individual serial number.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

MALTE Tourbillon High Jewellery
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
 
Reference 30630/000G-9899


Caliber 2795
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.37 x 29.30 mm (12’’’ 1/4 x 12’’’ 3/4)
6.10 mm thick
Approximately 45 hours power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
169 components
27 jewels
Indications
Hours
Minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Case

Diamond paved 18K white gold, diamond-set caseback and crown
Case: 208 baguette-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 11 carats
Caseback: 20 baguette-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 1.00 carat
Crown: 4 baguette-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 0.10 carat
38 mm x 48.24 diameter, 12.73 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial

Diamond-paved18K gold dial (174 baguette-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 6.70 carats)
Strap

Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, 

hand-stitched, saddle finish, large square scales
Clasp
Diamond-paved 18K white gold folding clasp (12 baguette-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 0.79 carat)


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For more information please contact:
Sra. Jennifer Lara
Marketing & Communications Manager Latin America
Vacheron Constantin
jennifer.lara@vacheron-constantin.com
Luis Alejandro López-Silva
Public Relations Agency Manager
PR4U para Vacheron Constantin México
pr4u.agency@me.com

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Friday, January 3, 2014

IWC - AQUATIMER New Collection 2014

















THE EVOLUTION OF THE DIVER’S WATCHES FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN

THE NEW AQUATIMER WATCHES FROM IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

The evolution of the diver’s watches from IWC continues. The 2014 Aquatimer collection from IWC Schaffhausen comes with inspired technical features, even more in-house calibres and a patented IWC bracelet quick-change system. For the first time ever, a haute horlogerie complication in the form of a perpetual calendar with a large digital date display appears in this watch family. Bronze likewise makes its debut as a metal for the case. The Swiss watch manufacturer is also launching four special editions in support of the work of the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Cousteau Society.

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For the first time ever, IWC Schaffhausen makes use of bronze for a watch case with the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” (Ref. IW379503).

“The Aquatimer is a distinctively masculine, dynamic and professional sports watch line, with a tradition dating back to 1967,” explains Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen. “The influence of legendary design elements and colours of the Aquatimer heritage is unmistakable. The design of the new generation, however, is more purist than that of its predecessors. It makes a powerful overall impression, effectively accentuated by the new, innovative rotating bezel,the hallmark of the IWC Aquatimer watches.” The fact that the new Aquatimer watch collection is being launched against the stupendous backdrop of the Galapagos Islands is no coincidence. “Very few regions on Earth are home to such a fascinating diversity of species, both on land and in the ocean, as this unique archipelago,” continues Georges Kern. “Our Aquatimer watches are the perfect companion for demanding expeditions above and below water, and are entirely in their element in this natural paradise. But the massive extent of the threat posed to this World Heritage Site is also clear to us.”

IWC Schaffhausen pledges itself to ecologically responsible behaviour and pursues a corporate strategy based firmly on sustainability. As a manufacturer of top-quality watches that stand for lasting value, the Swiss company feels a very special obligation to help preserve the fragile ecosystem of the Galapagos Islands. It therefore supports and sponsors the Charles Darwin Foundation and its research organization, which adopts a scientific approach to the challenges on the Galapagos. IWC brings the same commitment to the Cousteau Society, which dedicates itself to continuing the research work of Jacques Cousteau (1910–1997) and the preservation of the world’s seas.
 
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With his unique photography and film work depicting the rich diversity of marine life, the French deep-sea diver brought “The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau”, as his most popular TV series was known, to the homes of millions of people worldwide. A passionate engineer, inventor, researcher and film-maker, he heightened awareness of the need to protect the blue planet as no one else has done.

THE 2014 AQUATIMER COLLECTION: AN OVERVIEW

For the first time ever, a model from the IWC diver’s watch line is equipped with a perpetual calendar, a genuinely haute horlogerie complication. The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month (Ref. IW379401) is a genuinely big watch from two points of view. On the one hand, there is the IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre with perpetual calendar and large digital display for the date and month, a feature very much in the Pallweber tradition of 1884. On the other, the flagship of the new collection – which is limited to just 50 watches, incidentally – comes with an impressive case diameter of 49 millimetres. This makes the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month the second-largest wristwatch in IWC’s history, after the Big Pilot’s Watch of 1940. Following in the footsteps of the GST Deep One of 1999 and the Aquatimer Deep Two of 2009, the Aquatimer Deep Three in titanium (Ref. IW355701) is the third generation of IWC’s diver’s watches to feature a mechanical depth gauge. Both the depth gauge and the rotating bezel system have been continuously developed and improved. During a dive, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, while the red maximum depth indicator remains at the maximum depth attained, down to a maximum of 50 metres.
The Aquatimer Deep Three thus provides a complete backup system to a dive computer. Built for extreme depths, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 (Ref. IW358002), water-resistant to 200 bar, continues IWC’s tradition of manufacturing timepieces that can withstand extraordinarily high pressures for both amateur and professional divers. Its titanium case and minimalist design are reminiscent of another iconic IWC model: the Ocean 2000, created by Ferdinand A. Porsche in 1982. The Aquatimer Automatic 2000 features the rugged IWC-manufactured 80110 calibre with Pellaton winding system.
With the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “50 Years Science for Galapagos” (Ref. IW379504), limited to 500 watches, IWC honours the 50th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Research Station, a scientific institution set up by the Charles Darwin Foundation. The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” (Ref. IW379502), which comes with identical technology, has been an expression of IWC’s commitment to the threatened archipelago. Both watches are powered by an IWC-manufactured 89365 calibre and have an attractive black rubber coating. With the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” (Ref. IW379503), IWC Schaffhausen traces the journey of the well-known naturalist to the Galapagos Islands. Here, Darwin collected the evidence that formed the basis of his theory on the origin of species. As a tribute to this event, and for the first time ever, IWC Schaffhausen makes use of bronze for a watch case: the metal alloy was one of the materials typically used in shipbuilding at that time. This special edition is also equipped with the IWC manufactured 89365 calibre.


In 1971, for his film “The Dragons of Galapagos”, the best known pioneer of marine research Jacques Cousteau undertook an expedition to the remote islands in the Pacific to study the behaviour of the marine iguanas. In honour of this enlightening journey of discovery, IWC unveils the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau” in stainless steel (Ref. IW376805). Thanks to the more discreet colours and shapes, the Aquatimer Chronograph in stainless steel (Refs. IW376801/IW376802/IW376803/IW376804), with a black or silver-plated dial, also cuts a fine figure in everyday use. The purist design of the dial leans heavily on that of the first Aquatimer of 1967, but offers a more contemporary interpretation. With a case measuring 42 millimetres in diameter, the Aquatimer Automatic in stainless steel (Refs. IW329001/IW329002/IW329003/IW329004) is the smallest member of the diver’s watch family. The watch, with its three hands, is available in four versions, with a black or silver-plated dial, complemented by a matching black rubber strap or stainless-steel bracelet.


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IWC CEO Georges Kern sums up the comprehensive relaunch of the Aquatimer watches as follows: “The new Aquatimer collection has undergone a carefully orchestrated process of technical and optical development. The sophisticated external/internal rotating bezel makes the watch easier to use than ever before and guarantees even more safety during dives. The design of the sports watches is uniquely modern and unmistakably bears the hallmark of IWC. Other features that boost the quality and value of the line are the inclusion of more IWC-manufactured calibres and, for the first time ever, the use of bronze in a case. And with complications such as a perpetual calendar with large digital date and month display as well as a mechanical depth gauge, the Aquatimer line has now taken a leading position in the world of haute horlogerie.”

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The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” (Ref. IW379502), is powered by an IWC-manufactured 89365 calibre and has an attractive black rubber coating.


RELAUNCH AN INTEGRAL PART OF EVOLUTION

“The 2014 Aquatimer collection perfectly epitomizes the concept of evolution: remaining successful is all about continuous development,” says Goris Verburg, Director Marketing & Communication IWC Schaffhausen. “That’s the reason why we gave the watch family its first comprehensive relaunch since 2009, without altering its DNA. We retained the qualities our customers appreciate so highly in the Aquatimer watches – the fact that they’re robust and elegant, as equally well suited to diving or an expedition to the Galapagos as to a business meeting. The combination of sport and adventure, outstanding technology and masculine appeal embodied by the diver’s watches perfectly reflects the central message of IWC ‘Engineered for men’.”

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The most conspicuous technical modification in the new Aquatimer generation is the innovative external/internal rotating bezel complete with IWC SafeDive system. The mechanism combines the advantages of an internal rotating bezel, which engages precisely in steps of one minute and protects the mechanism against dirt and seawater, with the ease of use of an external rotating bezel that can be moved simply by a diver wearing gloves or with cold fingers. A sliding clutch system connects the two rings by the rotation of the external bezel being transmitted to the inside of the case and the internal bezel. For safety reasons, the internal bezel only moves anticlockwise. This ensures that, even if a diver were to move the bezel accidentally, zero hour – the time at which he can return safely to the surface without the need for decompression stops – would not be exceeded. The Super-LumiNova®* coating for the dive time scale on the internal bezel guarantees excellent legibility at all times, no matter how poor the visibility. The two colours, which glow in the dark, are also an aid to orientation on the dial: green for displays relevant to dive time, blue for the hour display.

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INSPIRED BY DESIGN ICONS

Christian Knoop, Creative Director at IWC, explains the design of the new Aquatimer watches: “The choice of less vivid colours and the functional design of the dial reference the first Aquatimer released in 1967. By contrast, we took our inspiration for the gently rounded and recessed grips on the external bezels from the legendary Porsche design of the Ocean 2000 of 1982. The new rotating bezel mechanism gives the current Aquatimer collection overall a more sophisticated look and feel, despite the addition of a protective cover for the sliding clutch system on the left-hand side of the case. The polished and satin-finished surfaces likewise enhance the high-quality appearance of the watches. Apart from this, I’m personally delighted that by using bronze we’ve managed to integrate a very attractive and living material into IWC’s repertoire of case materials.”

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 In addition to the perpetual calendar with its large digital display for the month and date, one of the outstanding watchmaking achievements in this year’s collection is the mechanical depth gauge and pressure-resistance to 200 bar. Overall, the line benefits from three new chronograph references with IWC-manufactured movements. Furthermore, most of the previous models have significantly higher pressure-resistance. From now on, all Aquatimers will feature the traditional fish symbol showing pressure-resistance in bar on the back of the watch. The new, patented IWC bracelet quick-change system is not only very practical – the change from stainless-steel bracelet to rubber strap and vice versa is quick and easy – but also very safe. The bracelet is attached to the locking bar from above and engages audibly. To release it, the locking lever is pressed outward with the thumb and the bracelet pushed upward to disengage it. In the corrugated rubber strap, the first segments are so flexible that the strap adjusts itself effortlessly to fluctuations in the girth of the wrist experienced at high temperatures or when diving. In its XXL version, the corrugated strap can even be worn over a drysuit. The bracelets used in the 2014 Aquatimer collection are interchangeable.

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The Aquatimer Automatic 2000 (Ref. IW358002) features the rugged IWC-manufactured 80110 calibre with Pellaton winding system.

AQUATIMERS FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN: CONQUERING THE WORLD’S OCEANS SINCE 1967

Man’s dream of diving is probably as old as his dream of flying. In the 1960s, his fascination with the underwater world led to unprecedented efforts to explore newfound depths systematically. The growing popularity of amateur diving challenged the watch industry to develop diver’s watches that were water-resistant, robust and, above all, totally reliable. Time management under water is critical: a diver’s health – or even life – can depend on it.

In 1967, IWC launched the Aquatimer. Water-resistant to 20 bar, the company’s first diver’s watch founded a watch family whose success has continued unabated to this day. Initially, the manufacturer went for an internal rotating bezel, which was set using a second crown situated at “4 o’clock”.

The first result of a 20-year partnership with designer Ferdinand A. Porsche was the compass watch with automatic movement developed by IWC Schaffhausen in 1978. In the early 1980s, further cooperation with the designer of the legendary Porsche 911 led to the first military diver’s watches. Parallel to this, and from 1982, IWC began producing the similarly designed Ocean 2000 sports diver’s watch. It was the first series-built diver’s watch in a titanium case with tested pressure-resistance to 200 bar. At this time, IWC was the only company in the world capable of milling titanium. The lightweight, corrosion-resistant and virtually indestructible material is particularly suitable for diver’s watches. In 1997, IWC rolled out the GST sports watch line, which rapidly became a symbol of ruggedness combined with tried and tested suitability for everyday use. A year later, IWC reinstated the traditional Aquatimer name and launched the Aquatimer GST Automatic 2000 in titanium, and tested to resist pressures up to 200 bar, as part of the new sports watch line. The inventive spirit of IWC’s engineers then led to the GST Deep One in 1999. This eye-catching diver’s watch in its titanium case was the first IWC watch with a mechanical depth gauge.

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In 2004, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 was first unveiled to the public. Like the original 1967 Aquatimer, it had an internal rotating bezel that was set via a self-sealing crown at “4 o’clock”. That year also saw the launch of the Aquatimer Split Minute Chronograph, a diver’s watch equipped with a separately operable split-minute hand that functions independent of the chronograph. This was the globally unique extra function of a split-minute hand that could be switched on or off under water at any time, at depths of up to 120 metres. In 2008, IWC’s year of the Vintage Watch, the Aquatimer Automatic reappeared in the same guise as the original 1967 Aquatimer. This was no pretty showcase piece, but a genuine working instrument for tough underwater assignments.

Redeveloped from the ground up, the 2009 Aquatimer collection underscored IWC Schaffhausen’s aspirations to a position at the top of the world of mechanical watchmaking. The most conspicuous new feature on the diver’s watches, which were bigger overall, was the external rotating bezel with its inset sapphire glass. Its lower surface has several coats of Super-LumiNova®*, which ensures that divers are able to read off their dive time even when light and visibility conditions are poor. The Aquatimer Chronograph in 18-caratred gold attracted attention because it was IWC’s first diver’s watch in a case made of a precious metal. The Aquatimer Deep Two succeeded the GST Deep One and impressed with its precise mechanical depth gauge, which showed current dive depth as well as the depth attained in the course of a dive, to a maximum of 50 metres. The Aquatimer Chronograph featured imposingly solid technology with an eye-catching coral red or signal yellow arc for the first quarter-hour combined with a dark blue or black dial. In 2009, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” in its rubber-coated case appeared for the first time and has been an indispensable part of the collection ever since.

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COMMITMENT ON LAND AND UNDER WATER

IWC’s work with the Charles Darwin Foundation goes back to 2009, when the scientific world celebrated Darwin’s 200th birthday. “We are very grateful for the support we have received from our long-term partner IWC Schaffhausen,” says Swen Lorenz, CEO of the Charles Darwin Foundation. “The cooperation with IWC has enabled us to push ahead with important protective and research measures, and to make our cause better known worldwide.” With two new Aquatimer Chronograph special editions – “Galapagos Islands”(Ref. IW379502) and “50 Years Science for Galapagos”(Ref. IW379504) – IWC has dedicated two very special timepieces to the Charles Darwin Foundation and helps sponsor its indefatigable efforts by channelling part of the proceeds from sales to the charitable organization and its Research Station.

IWC became a partner of the Cousteau Society as early as 2004, and supports the organization in its establishment of marine protected areas. This is widely accepted as one of the most effective methods of protecting the fragile underwater world from over-fishing, poaching and environmental destruction. With Jacques Cousteau, IWC Schaffhausen shares not only a technological pioneering spirit and passion for perfection, but also the commitment to an intact environment worth living in. For this reason, in 2014, IWC Schaffhausen will devote another special edition – already the sixth – to the visionary who championed the cause of the oceans: the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau” (Ref. IW376805) is a memento of the Calypso’s fantastic voyage of discovery to the Galapagos archipelago in 1971. Part of the proceeds from sales of each watch goes to the benefit of the Cousteau Society and helps ensure that the legacy of this committed environmental activist is fulfilled.


A PARADISE UNDER THREAT

The Galapagos Islands lie 1,000 kilometres west of Ecuador. Their remoteness and special climatic conditions have created a world of fauna and flora that is unique worldwide. Because of the very different conditions prevailing from one island to the next, natural selection has produced animal and plant species that are unknown anywhere else on the planet. Around 40 per cent of the animals living in the Galapagos, such as the giant tortoises, the marine iguanas and the famous Darwin finches, are endemic to the islands. Together, they helped Charles Darwin, who visited the islands in 1835, to formulate his theory of evolution on the origin and mutation of species by natural selection and adaptation. The waters around the islands, too, teem with an abundance of life, supported by various ocean currents such as the cold and nutrient-rich Humboldt Current, the warm North Equatorial Countercurrent and the Cromwell Current, which is a relatively warm 17 degrees Celsius. They are a paradise for whales and Galapagos sharks, sea lions, penguins and manta rays – and, of course, for divers, who can find areas with more species than most other oceans in the world. In 1978, UNESCO declared the Galapagos Islands a World Heritage Site.
Ecuador declared 97 per cent of the total emerged surface area a National Park as early as 1959. In 1998, a marine reserve was created around the Galapagos. In 2001, the World Heritage Site was extended to include the Galapagos Marine Reserve and became one of the largest marine conservation areas in the world. There can be no doubt that the removal of the Galapagos Islands from UNESCO’s Red List in 2010 was a partial success. Nevertheless, this living laboratory of evolution is critically endangered by, among things, invasive animal and plant species, settlement, growing tourism and illegal fishing. The survival of the mangrove finch, one of the Darwin finch subspecies, is threatened by an introduced species of fly. At present, just 70 of these intelligent birds, which can even use tools to obtain food, remain. The Charles Darwin Foundation does all it possibly can to preserve these animals and plants on the Galapagos. For 50 years, the international non-profit organization has maintained a scientific Research Station on Santa Cruz, the second-largest island in the archipelago. Over 100 scientists, students, teachers and volunteers from all over the world work tirelessly to research the indigenous flora and fauna and to preserve the Galapagos World Heritage Site from destruction. On top of this, the Station trains national park rangers, organizes seminars for teachers and students, publishes the findings of its research and acquires donations.

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