Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Baume & Mercier – CLIFTON Retrograde Date Automatic
















Baume & MercierCLIFTON Retrograde Date Automatic NEW

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An understated complication

The Clifton Retrograde Date watch has an inspired graphic style, once again illustrating Baume & Mercier’s expertise in the domain of small complications. The timepiece presented this year has a date calendar featuring a display of the power reserve and retrograde date, designed to provide originality and satisfy its owner’s taste for beautiful mechanisms, elegance and a certain idea of balance. Baume & Mercier has always forged the image of a brand closely linked to life’s major events through its frequent involvement with the major celebrations in human existence. The Clifton Retrograde Date is undeniably one of those references that will defy time itself. With each detail of its construction, this watch proves how the spirit that determined its construction is perfectly in phase with the brand whose credo, since its foundation in 1830, is «accept only perfec-tion; only manufacture watches of the highest quality.»

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Alexandre Peraldi, Director of the Baume & Mercier in-house Design Studio, readily admits that «there is nothing more com-plicated than making a simple watch.» This 43 mm steel watch, housing a mechanical self-winding caliber, required a great deal of thought. The presence of many different functions on the dial meant achieving visual equilibrium so as to keep it perfectly le-gible. Baume & Mercier’s talent indeed lies precisely in finding that ideal balance.

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Just one look at the Clifton Retrograde Date and its dial is enough to understand how aesthetic qualities and attention to detail satisfy the wearer’s interest and fascination for fine watch-making. This timepiece, with its case borrowed from a 1950s Baume & Mercier watch, now an integral part of the museum’s collection, houses a beautifully made mechanical self-winding caliber visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back. The sun satin-finished dial displays hours, minutes and seconds through the presence of a central seconds hand. But the caliber, fitted with a function plate, also displays the day in a small coun-ter at 9 o’clock, the retrograde date at 3 o’clock and the power reserve at 6 o’clock. The winding level of the barrel spring gua-rantees that the watch will work for forty or so hours.

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The art of balance

A cornerstone of the new 2014 products, the Clifton Retrograde Date highlights Baume & Mercier’s desire to offer lovers of fine watches a reference timepiece that stands out visually while offe-ring a useful and accessible complication. The Clifton Retrograde Date is guaranteed to be water-resistant to 50 meters and is avai-lable in a brown alligator strap, closed by a triple folding buckle with security push-pieces.

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Housed in a 43 mm diameter steel case, the Clifton Retrograde Date features generous dimensions, exceptional finishing and aesthetically appealing display appearing against a silver-colored sun satin-finished background. Inspired by a watch that expe-rienced its heyday in the 1950s, this watch, traditionally driven by a mechanical self-winding caliber combined with an additional retrograde date function, boldly displays information that could be described as retro-futuristic. It thus combines features taken from the past without depriving itself of contemporary options that will capture the attention of watch lovers wanting to live in step with their century. The work accomplished for this watch, to be worn on a brown alligator strap closed by a triple folding buckle with secu-rity push-pieces, creates a watch with an inimitable style that many watch lovers, looking for an ideal timepiece, will not fail to notice.

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 Technical specifications

CLIFTON Retrograde Date Automatic M0A10149

Collection:        Clifton
Movement:   
Mechanical self-winding (Soprod 9094)
Circular-grained plate and bridges
Oscillating weight personalized with snailed decor, « Côtes de Genève » décor and Phi symbol
Jewels: 30
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
Functions:     
Retrograde date 
Power reserve
Day
Case:       
Round
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 12.05 mm
Polished & satin-finished stainless steel
Antiglare scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back secured with 4 screws
Dial:       
Sun satin-finished and snailed silver-colored
Gilt Arabic numerals and indexes
Gilt and blued steel hands       
Strap:            Brown alligator
Buckle:
        Adjustable triple folding buckle with security push-pieces
Water-resistance:
    5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Reference:        M0A10149   

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Monday, February 17, 2014

Corum – Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon



CORUMAdmiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon 2014

The prestigious Admiral’s Cup collection now welcomes an eminently complicated new movement:  hand-wound  wound Caliber  CO  1008, an exclusive  mechanism  features a  double  tourbillon combined  with  a retrograde  date  and  an  ingenious  time adjustment system.

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Corum has equipped the new Caliber CO 1008 with two parallel-mounted tourbillons, dedicated to ensuring remarkable reliability backed by a generous 72-hour power reserve.  This mechanism is also fitted with a retrograde date and a particularly innovative time adjustment device.  Simply  by  pressing  the  crown  pushbutton,  the  wearer  can  bring  the minutes hand instantly to the 12th index so as to set the exact time - and this can be done up to five minutes before or after a full hour.

Contemporary and sophisticated
 
Embodying  an  authentic  horological  challenge,  Caliber  CO  1008  finds  the  perfect  stagesetting in the iconic twelve-sided case of the Admiral’s Cup – born in 1960 and redesigned in  2013,  while  remaining  staunchly  true  to  the  signature  codes  that  have  earned  it legendary status. Based on a contemporary architecture featuring alternating polished and satin-brushed  finishes,  its  layered  construction  comprises  black  PVD-coated  titanium inserts appearing in turn between the case back and middle and then between the bezel and the case middle – all contributing to a masterfully structured aesthetic approach.

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Available in 18K red gold or grade 5 titanium, the case of the Admiral’s Cup AC-One Double Tourbillon  stylishly  displays  a  generous  45  mm  diameter  enhanced  by  an  immediately recognizable  design.  Clearly cut out for adventure, it is endowed with impressive water resistance to a depth of 300 meters.

The dial swept over by luminescent hands and hour-markers is adorned with an exclusive design specially developed for Corum:  the split pomegranate motif.  Forming  small diagonally-incised squares, this composition creates an elegant depth effect accentuated by  the  inner  bezel  ring  stamped  with  the  emblematic nautical  pennants  of  the  Admiral’s  Cup collection.

While the two tourbillons spin on the lower part of the dial, a dynamic red arrow points to the retrograde  date  segment  appearing  on  the  upper  part  like  an  extension  of  the  two carriages. The  dazzling  style  of  the  Admiral’s  Cup  AC-One  45  Double  Tourbillon  continues  on  the bridge  side,  where  the  transparent  back  reveals  the beauty  of  the  mechanical  caliber oscillating  at  a  frequency  of  21,600  vibrations  per hour  (3  Hz).  The  movement’s  modern execution  features  a  horizontal  satin-brushed  finish  and  anthracite  grey  engravings.

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Mounted  on  a  mainplate  made  of  cupro-beryllium,  a  particularly  wear-resistant  copper based alloy, it testifies to a determination to endow exceptional horological complications with  remarkable  long-term  reliability.  The Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon is thus set to continue, for many years to come, beating to the pulse of watchmaking mingling outstanding performance and powerful emotions.

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 Technical specifications

Movement

Movement number: CO 1008
Winding system: Manual
Functions: 
Hour & Minute, Date, Double tourbillon, Actual hour corrector
Power reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz, 21'600 vph
Dimension: 14 1/4'''
Model: A1008/02337 - 1008.101.04/0F01 AN10
Dial
Colours: Charcoal grey
Material: Brass
Hourly nautical pennants transferred on the flange
Inscribed "Admiral's Cup" transferred on the dial
Applied rhodium-coated hour indexes
CORUM logo applied on the dial
Minute-circle indexes transferred on the dial
"Grenadier fendu" finishing
Case

Dimension: 45 mm
Thickness: 14.40 mm
Case material: Titanium grade 5
Bezel material: Titanium grade 5
Crown protector material: Titanium grade 5 with black PVD treatment
Crown material: Titanium grade 5; Engraved CORUM key
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflectivetreatment
Back type: Screwed in open back cover intitanium grade 5 with glare proof sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 300 meters / 30 ATM
Hands

Dauphine-variant; Rhodium coated; Faceted; Skeleton; White super luminova
Date: Baton with arrowhead tip; Red coloured
Bracelet

Material: Crocodile leather
Colours: Black
Interhorn/Buckle: 23/20 mm
Buckle type: Triple folding clasp
Buckle material: Titanium grade 5
Engraved CORUM logo
Opening and fastening system using 2 pushers


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