Monday, February 17, 2014

Corum – Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon



CORUMAdmiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon 2014

The prestigious Admiral’s Cup collection now welcomes an eminently complicated new movement:  hand-wound  wound Caliber  CO  1008, an exclusive  mechanism  features a  double  tourbillon combined  with  a retrograde  date  and  an  ingenious  time adjustment system.

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Corum has equipped the new Caliber CO 1008 with two parallel-mounted tourbillons, dedicated to ensuring remarkable reliability backed by a generous 72-hour power reserve.  This mechanism is also fitted with a retrograde date and a particularly innovative time adjustment device.  Simply  by  pressing  the  crown  pushbutton,  the  wearer  can  bring  the minutes hand instantly to the 12th index so as to set the exact time - and this can be done up to five minutes before or after a full hour.

Contemporary and sophisticated
 
Embodying  an  authentic  horological  challenge,  Caliber  CO  1008  finds  the  perfect  stagesetting in the iconic twelve-sided case of the Admiral’s Cup – born in 1960 and redesigned in  2013,  while  remaining  staunchly  true  to  the  signature  codes  that  have  earned  it legendary status. Based on a contemporary architecture featuring alternating polished and satin-brushed  finishes,  its  layered  construction  comprises  black  PVD-coated  titanium inserts appearing in turn between the case back and middle and then between the bezel and the case middle – all contributing to a masterfully structured aesthetic approach.

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Available in 18K red gold or grade 5 titanium, the case of the Admiral’s Cup AC-One Double Tourbillon  stylishly  displays  a  generous  45  mm  diameter  enhanced  by  an  immediately recognizable  design.  Clearly cut out for adventure, it is endowed with impressive water resistance to a depth of 300 meters.

The dial swept over by luminescent hands and hour-markers is adorned with an exclusive design specially developed for Corum:  the split pomegranate motif.  Forming  small diagonally-incised squares, this composition creates an elegant depth effect accentuated by  the  inner  bezel  ring  stamped  with  the  emblematic nautical  pennants  of  the  Admiral’s  Cup collection.

While the two tourbillons spin on the lower part of the dial, a dynamic red arrow points to the retrograde  date  segment  appearing  on  the  upper  part  like  an  extension  of  the  two carriages. The  dazzling  style  of  the  Admiral’s  Cup  AC-One  45  Double  Tourbillon  continues  on  the bridge  side,  where  the  transparent  back  reveals  the beauty  of  the  mechanical  caliber oscillating  at  a  frequency  of  21,600  vibrations  per hour  (3  Hz).  The  movement’s  modern execution  features  a  horizontal  satin-brushed  finish  and  anthracite  grey  engravings.

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Mounted  on  a  mainplate  made  of  cupro-beryllium,  a  particularly  wear-resistant  copper based alloy, it testifies to a determination to endow exceptional horological complications with  remarkable  long-term  reliability.  The Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon is thus set to continue, for many years to come, beating to the pulse of watchmaking mingling outstanding performance and powerful emotions.

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 Technical specifications

Movement

Movement number: CO 1008
Winding system: Manual
Functions: 
Hour & Minute, Date, Double tourbillon, Actual hour corrector
Power reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz, 21'600 vph
Dimension: 14 1/4'''
Model: A1008/02337 - 1008.101.04/0F01 AN10
Dial
Colours: Charcoal grey
Material: Brass
Hourly nautical pennants transferred on the flange
Inscribed "Admiral's Cup" transferred on the dial
Applied rhodium-coated hour indexes
CORUM logo applied on the dial
Minute-circle indexes transferred on the dial
"Grenadier fendu" finishing
Case

Dimension: 45 mm
Thickness: 14.40 mm
Case material: Titanium grade 5
Bezel material: Titanium grade 5
Crown protector material: Titanium grade 5 with black PVD treatment
Crown material: Titanium grade 5; Engraved CORUM key
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflectivetreatment
Back type: Screwed in open back cover intitanium grade 5 with glare proof sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 300 meters / 30 ATM
Hands

Dauphine-variant; Rhodium coated; Faceted; Skeleton; White super luminova
Date: Baton with arrowhead tip; Red coloured
Bracelet

Material: Crocodile leather
Colours: Black
Interhorn/Buckle: 23/20 mm
Buckle type: Triple folding clasp
Buckle material: Titanium grade 5
Engraved CORUM logo
Opening and fastening system using 2 pushers


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Sunday, February 16, 2014

Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition
















Carl F. BuchererMANERO ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition NEW

Because of its complexity and mechanical refinement, the perpetual calendar, which shows the date, day of the week, month, and moon phase without requiring correction, remains a technical challenge that only a handful of watchmakers have mastered. The mechanism knows the differing lengths of months and the timing of the next leap year, thereby successfully countering the quirks of the Gregorian calendar.

In the year 46 BC, the astronomer Sosigenes of Alexandria developed the basic principles for today’s calendar. He divided the year into twelve months, with seven months of 31 days, four months of 30 days, one month of 28 or 29 days, resulting in 365.25 days per year, and with one additional day every four years as a correction. Thanks to the great Roman Emperor Julius Caesar, use of this system became widespread throughout the entire world. However, this “Julian” calendar contained an error of 0.0078 days per year, a discrepancy which was corrected by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582. In the system which bears his name, a leap year is left out every 100 years except in round centuries which have a number of years divisible by 400. This Gregorian calendar is still used today, forming the foundation for the way we measure time.

Masterwork of craftsmanship
Anyone who wears a mechanical watch with a date display will be familiar with the problems caused by months of differing lengths, particularly in leap years. Because simple, standard calendar mechanisms always switch from the 30th to the 31st, the date has to be moved forward manually to the first after months with fewer days. A perpetual calendar mechanism, however, is able to correctly handle these transitions independently, even factoring in leap years. The complexity of this mechanism demands the ultimate in watchmaking craftsmanship, and is appropriately referred to as the “grand complication”. Manual correction will not be necessary until the year 2100, when – as in all years divisible by 100, but not by 400 – one leap year will be skipped.

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For all lovers of this traditional masterpiece of the watchmaker’s art, Carl F. Bucherer now presents a limited edition of the Manero ChronoPerpetual featuring a unique combination of chronograph and perpetual calendar. The Manero ChronoPerpetual is a true wonder of the art of watchmaking, with a perpetual calendar date display at 12 o’clock, day of the week at 6 o’clock, month and leap year at 9 o’clock, and moon phase at 3 o’clock – all of which do not require correction. The functional module specially developed for Carl F. Bucherer also features a precision chronograph with the popular flyback function. A tachymeter scale on the bezel completes the range of practical functionalities for which Carl F. Bucherer is famous. A movement from Vaucher Manufacture, which features a contemporary design in the distinctive style of the Lucerne watch brand, forms an exclusive basis.

Visual clarity, perfection of form

Despite this multiplicity of functions and displays, Carl F. Bucherer has ensured optimum readability of the dial on the Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition. The designers met this challenge by giving it generous dimensions, different levels, and various surface finishes. The chronograph counters for the hours (6 o’clock), minutes (9 o’clock), and small running seconds hand (12 o’clock) are distinctively and attractively integrated into the striking recessed calendar displays, while fine lines provide the necessary readability and the slender stopwatch hand in the center marks counted seconds.

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The traditional complication of the perpetual calendar has been reinterpreted in contemporary fashion through wedge-shaped hour index marks, the expressive numbering so characteristic of Carl F. Bucherer, and tapering Super-LumiNova-coated hour and minute hands. The chronograph hands are either a discreet black or rose gold in color. The center of the classic silver-colored or black dial is matte, while the chronograph counters and minute division ring are brushed, creating an attractive play of light. The moon phase indicator is modern and functional in design, featuring an anthracite-colored background and a silver-colored moon disk.

This timelessly functional look is expertly continued in the case crafted of fine rose gold. The bezel is concave in shape, the sapphire crystal is domed, and the crown and polished chronograph push-pieces of 18-carat rose gold are elegantly simple. The case back with integrated sapphire crystal gives a clear view of the mechanical jewel featuring a 22-carat rose gold oscillating weight.

Another reason for the extreme exclusivity of the Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition is the fact that only 100 will be made worldwide. With this latest piece in the Manero collection, Carl F. Bucherer has succeeded in creating a watch for connoisseurs who delight in masterworks of traditional watchmaking that unite maximum functionality with a timelessly classic, restrained look.

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Manero ChronoPerpetual


Reference No. 00.10907.03.13.01
Movement:
  • power reserve 50 h
  • 49 jewels
  • depth 7.6 mm
  • diameter 30 mm
  • Caliber CFB 1904
  • automatic 
Functions:
  • hour
  • minute
  • small seconds
  • flyback
  • leap year
  • chronograph: hours, minutes and seconds counters
  • perpetual calender with month, date, day of the week
  • moon phase
  • tachymeter
Dial:
                   silver-colored
Case:
  • depth 14.3 mm
  • diameter 42.5 mm
  • water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm)
  • case back with sapphire crystal
  • sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
  • 18 K rose gold
Strap:
  • hand-stitched Louisiana alligator skin brown leather
  • pin buckle 18 K rose gold
Limitation edition:
100 pieces
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Press center
Carl F. Bucherer
Langensandstrasse 27
CH-6002 Lucerne
Tel. +41 41 369 70 70
Fax +41 41 369 70 72
E-mail: presscenter@carl-f-bucherer.com
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