Thursday, January 9, 2014

Greubel Forsey – Platinum GMT

















GREUBEL FORSEY GF05 Platinum GMT NEW

The Platinum GMT by Greubel Forsey

In 2011, Greubel Forsey revolutionized the field of GMT (dual time zone) watches with their innovative timepiece and its original technique, aesthetics and practicality. Its exceptional precision movement, featuring the 24-second tourbillon with 25° inclination, now comes set against a platinum backdrop.

The acronym ‘GMT’, or Greenwich Mean Time, the benchmark meridian time, refers in watchmaking  terminology to a (dual or) second time zone indicator. Driven by a spirit of research, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have gone well beyond this conventional time zone display using a window or a hand, by incorporating into their timepiece a terrestrial globe completing each anti-clockwise rotation in 24h - the same direction in which our planet spins.

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This planisphere presents all the global time zones in real time from the perspective of the North Pole where they converge.  All the information can be viewed at a single glance. It is midday in the United Kingdom, and the beginning of the afternoon in Rome or Geneva. The eastern coast of the United States will soon be awakened by the early sunlight, while the Orient is still immersed in darkness… Our first contact with the timepiece offers an epic transcontinental journey. The GMT  by Greubel Forsey  is  much more  than  a  watch. It has evolved into a portable time map.

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A lateral window set in the case offers a viewpoint over the Southern Hemisphere. The South Pole does not appear since it is the anchor point of the globe, which houses a “flying” pivot system. Greubel Forsey chose titanium, engraved with extreme precision in three dimensions to represent the continents in miniature.

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The globe stands  prominent at 8 o'clock, while the 24-second Tourbillon also protrudes at 5o'clock. The platinum case has a third protrusion at 1 o'clock: the main time indications are clearly displayed, overlaid in a cascade across this area of the dial side , with a small seconds at 2 o'clock and then a sectorial power reserve indicator at 3 o'clock. At 10 o'clock is the GMT display for the second time zone.

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The  back of  the  timepiece displays universal time  for 24  time  zones, through an  original rotating  disc. This bears the names of 24 cities, and providing a particularly legible display, light-colored cartouches differentiating summer time (for cities which follow this system). As a final touch, a symbolic midday sun at the zenith of the world time disc illuminates the case-back, leaving centre stage of the dial side to the Earth.

Naturally, and in this too we can recognize the "Greubel Forsey signature", the utmost care is taken with the decoration of the components, down to the smallest details. The hand finishes take in the entire range of traditional techniques, from frosting to hand-bevelling, as well as the subtleties of hand-polishing, lapping, and straight graining with flat black polished finishes. The domed crystal, the case-back and lateral window are made from sapphire crystal. The hand-stitched black alligator strap has a platinum folding clasp. A magnificent demonstration of expertise harnessed for the pursuit of fine craftsmanship.

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Technical Specifications

The GMT calibre is powered by two barrels providing a 72-h power reserve with a frequency  of 21,600 vibrations/hour. 
The calibre comprises 443 components. 
It features a 24-second tourbillon with 25° inclination, comprising 87 components for a total weight of 0.36 g.

Besides its chronometric properties and reliability, this regulator system was adopted for its small size, which meant that a calibre diameter of 36.40 mm (16 ½ lines) could be kept.
This makes for a new medium-sized case, 43.5 mm wide with a total height of 16.14 mm.
Made  from  950 platinum,  it  has  a  slightly lighter hue than the previous white gold version.

For further information: 
Communication Department 
press@greubelforsey.com – +41 79 194 2884
Eplatures-Grise -16 P.O. Box 670 2301
La Chaux-de-Fonds- Switzerland

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Wednesday, January 8, 2014

ZENITH – El Primero 410 Chronograph















ZENITH El Primero 410 Chronograph Limited Edition NEW

                                           El Primero 410
                              In the footsteps of a legend


A movement well-known to collectors beats at the heart of the latest Zenith watch: Calibre 410. Created in 1969 as a variation of the legendary El Primero, it combines the performances of the world’s most accurate automatic chronograph with triple calendar and moonphase indications. Steadily perpetuated over the years, it now appears in a form bridging past and present, orchestrated around a display loyal to the historical model, while the case displays resolutely contemporary lines.
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While one man took a small step that proved a giant leap for mankind by walking on the moon, Zenith did much the same for watchmaking that same year. After seven years of research, the Manufacture presented El Primero, the first ever integrated automatic chronograph, also equipped with a date and a tachometric scale. It was already an impressive feat in itself, backed by exceptional precision since the calibre beat at the exceptional speed of 36,000 vibrations an hour, corresponding to 1/10th of a second precision. That same year, buoyed by the daring that has guided its steps since its founding in 1865, as confirmed by the over 300 patents registered to date, the Manufacture Zenith further rolled back the boundaries of its art by equipping its calibre – that had become an instant watch industry icon – with triple calendar and moonphase indications.

The name of this movement also born in 1969 was the El Primero 3019 PHF, later referenced as 410. Built around a column wheel and endowed with a 50-hour power reserve, like all the El Primero movements that would punctuate the Zenith collections, Calibre 410 made its way through the decades until the year 2000 thanks to remarkable reliability coupled with extraordinary precision. But icons never die, and Zenith is now reviving it in 2013 in a 500-piece limited series featuring a slate grey dial.

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From the 1970s to the 21st century

Almost half a century after its creation, El Primero Calibre 410 has evolved in various ways, including having a complete model named after it and finding its way back into the legendary El Primero collection. Introduced this year with a silver-toned dial, it reproduces the original function layout in a distinctively 1970s spirit.

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The days and months are counted off at 10 and 2 o'clock respectively, while the date remains imperturbably enthroned between 4 and 5 o’clock. Merging into the hour subdial at 6 o’clock, the moonphase depicts the revolutions of the night star through a special-shaped aperture with two rounded cut-outs reproducing the dark part of the moon. The latter thus reveals its successive phases – and faces – throughout its cycle (waxing moon, full moon, waning moon, new moon). The disc bearing two moons is driven by a 59-toothed wheel corresponding to two lunar cycles (2 x 29.5 days). This is a model that reinvents the subtlety of the moonphase function by combining technique with poetry.

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The Manufacture-made complications of El Primero Calibre 410 are fairly classic, yet nonetheless rare. While Zenith wished to preserve the authentic character of an icon 20th century icon, it has succeeded in infusing it with “that little something extra” that imparts a modern touch and makes it truly unique. Appearing in a contemporary 42 mm size, the steel case displays decidedly on-trend curves with alternating polished and brushed finishes. The round chronograph pushpieces proclaim their originality, while the snailed counters create a subtle contrast with the sunray dial motif. Rimmed by the tachometric scale on the opaline inner bezel ring, the rhodium hour-markers stand out clearly to ensure perfect readability, while the Zenith star on the tip of the blue central chronograph seconds hand flies around the dial as if to underscore its prestigious kinship with the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph. The beating pulse of an authentic Manufacture model driven by the daring spirit of the one that will forever remain “the first”, the El Primero Calibre 410 reveals its fascinating 390-part mechanism through the sapphire crystal case-back. It brings to the wrist the unique pleasure of owning an icon.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
AUTOMATIC COLUMN-WHEEL CHRONOGRAPH WITH DAY/DATE/MONTH AND MOONPHASE INDICATIONS
EL PRIMERO 410 CALIBRE: 390 COMPONENTS, 31 JEWELS & 36,000 VPH
42 MM DIAMETER CASE

500-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
MOVEMENT
El Primero 410, automatic
Calibre: 13 ¼ ‘‘‘ (Diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness: 6.60 mm
Components: 390
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishing: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date indicator between 4 and 5 o’clock
Full calendar indications (day, date, month)
Moonphase indicator
Chronograph:
– 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
– 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
– Central chronograph seconds hand
Tachometric scale
CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Stainless steel
Diameter: 42 mm
Dial opening diameter: 37.10 mm
Thickness: 12.75 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Silver-toned sunray
Hour-markers: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted
Hands: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted
REFERENCE:
03.2091.410/01.C494

Brown alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining
Stainless steel buckle with triple folding clasp

Press Release
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