Chopard - L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition

CHOPARD - L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition


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For Only Watch 2013, Chopard has created a unique L.U.C. Tourbillon in platinum with gold movement bridges featuring a form of relief engraving native to Fleurier, known as Fleurisanne.

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For the 2013 edition of Only Watch, a biennial charity watch auction dedicated to fund the research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy, Chopard unveils a unique L.U.C Tourbillon model featuring movement bridges adorned with relief or “filet” engravings also known as Fleurisanne engraving – a highly distinctive and now almost extinct traditional skill typical of the Neuchâtel village of Fleurier. 

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An historical speciality of the village of Fleurier where the Chopard Manufacture has been established since 1996, hand-crafted, “filet” or Fleurisanne engraving is an artistic craft that has almost died out despite a glorious past in which it contributed to the reputation of the watchmakers from this area and the success the watches enjoyed as far afield as China. This highly distinctive and time-consuming art consists of relief-engraving decorative techniques on metal parts, generally gold movement bridges. Its specific nature stems from the fact that it does not involve engraving a motif as such but rather sculpting or ‘sparing’ it by hollowing out the material around it so as to make it stand out. The technique calls for total mastery of the tool and an extremely meticulous approach resulting in pieces that are truly unique in that each motif is entirely hand-crafted.

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Perpetuating manual skills

The House of Chopard, which has shown a longstanding commitment to training the next generation of the watch industry, is deeply attached to perpetuating ancient skills, encouraging specialists in its decorative workshops to recapture this engraving technique in order to revive a local tradition. In 2010, Chopard’s 150th anniversary celebrations included the unveiling of the first 15-piece limited series of L.U.C Tourbillon watches featuring bridges adorned with floral motifs.

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An exceptional one-of-a-kind model for Only Watch

For Only Watch 2013, Chopard has once again chosen to use this Fleurisanne engraving technique to personalise the movement of an exceptional one-of-a-kind model in which the different elements vividly testify to the extreme concern for detail that Chopard devotes to its watch creations.

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This L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition is graced with a rhodiumed 18-carat white gold hand-engraved dial bearing the coat-of-arms of the Principality of Monaco surrounded by a DNA molecule – a graphic reminder of the cause to which the Only Watch project is devoted. Clothed in a 43 mm-diameter titanium case with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces, the L.U.C 02.17-L Manufacture movement is also decorated with a DNA molecule on the bridge side, crafted using the Fleurisanne engraving technique.
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Every bit as aesthetically fascinating as it is technically sophisticated, this precious timepiece boasts a 9-day power reserve thanks to Chopard’s patented Quattro® technology and is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The model is water-resistant to 50 metres and fitted with a matt black hand-sewn alligator leather strap with a cognac-coloured alligator lining.

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 Technical details

Ref. 161929-9001 – in platinum – one-of-a-kind model  
Case
Platinum case
Diameter: 43.00 mm
Thickness: 11.15 mm
Water-resistant to: 50 metres
18ct white gold crown with L.U.C logo: 6.50 mm
Glareproofed sapphire crystals
Exhibition back
Movement
Hand-wound Tourbillon movement: L.U.C 02.17-L
Mainplate and bridges in black rhodiumed 18ct rose gold
Total diameter: 29.70 mm
Thickness: 6.10 mm
Number of jewels: 33
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
4 barrels, Quattro® technology
Power reserve: 216 hours (9 days)
Bridges with “DNA” motif crafted using the raised or “fillet” Fleurisanne engraving technique
Chronometer certified (COSC)
Dial and hands
Dial in hand-engraved silver-toned 18ct gold
Gilded and superluminova-enhanced hour and minute hands
Gilded small seconds and power-reserve display hands
Functions and displays
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Power-reserve at 12 o’clock
Strap and buckle
Matt black hand-sewn alligator leather strap with cognac-coloured alligator lining
18ct white gold pin buckle

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Vulcain - 50's Presidents Watch «Edition France»

VULCAIN - 50's Presidents  Watch «Edition France» NEW

The Manufacture Vulcain pays tribute to France in a 50-pieces limited edition of its famous alarm timepiece, the 50s Presidents’ Watch. A fine way of celebrating the long-established ties between the Swiss brand and the land of luxury, elegance and refinement.
France has always held a special place in Vulcain’s history since it was founded in 1858. Creations by the Manufacture soon achieved impressive success on this market. In 1889, at the World’s Fair held in Paris at the foot of the recently erected Eiffel Tower, Vulcain attracted attention with its rich range of simple or complicated pocket-watches. These included the “La Vallée de l’Arve” Grande Complication model with grand strike, minute repeater, perpetual calendar and moon phases that won a bronze medal.

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France also played a key role in the birth of the Cricket calibre that earned Vulcain international fame. In 1943, at a time when Vulcain’s Managing Director Robert Dittisheim was seeking to develop the first genuinely functional wristwatch capable of awakening even the deepest sleeper, French physicist Paul Langevin paid him a visit in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
During a stroll through the garden, the latter assured him that of a tiny creature like the cricket could make a sound that was audible from a distance of 30 metres, a small case housing a complex mechanism must be able to match such a performance. Buoyed by this scientific support, Robert Dittisheim pursued his research that was to lead in 1947 to the launch of the calibre with twin calibres (one for the movement and the other for the alarm) named the Cricket as a nod to the insect’s strident song.

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The Cricket watch appealed to many prominent statesmen, including Truman, Eisenhower, Nixon and Johnson – a fact that earned it the famous moniker as “The watch of Presidents” or “The Presidents’ Watch”. It was also a great success in France, even starring on the wrist of Eddie Constantine in Votre dévoué Blake, a film directed by Jean Laviron and released in 1954. Since Vulcain’s return to the forefront of the watchmaking scene, the French market has always been among the leading followers of the brand and of its new models. French retailers have also proven extremely active in supporting this renewal, and the Manufacture is keenly aware of the daily significance of their backing.

A STYLISH LIMITED SERIES 

 

In homage to France and to the enthusiasm for the brand shown by French customers, Vulcain is innovating by introducing its first ever watch specifically dedicated to a nation. This 50-piece limited edition of the iconic 50s Presidents’ Watch features a 42 mm steel case housing the legendary mechanical manually-wound Cricket V-16 alarm movement equipped with the brand-patented Exactomatic system ensuring improved rating regularity on the wrist. Particular care has been lavished on the polished and satin-brushed finish of the case that lends a chic and vintage touch. The sunburst silver-toned dial with applied hour-markers is distinguished by its aura of elegant understatement expressed through hours, minutes and seconds hands along with a date window at 6 o’clock. Finally, the owner of this limited-edition timepiece can precisely adjust the alarm time thanks to a central hand tipped with a black arrow gliding across the graduated scale around the outer rim of the dial.

The case-back is engraved with the name of the watch, the individual series number as well as a crown of laurels – a symbol of strength, of victory and accomplishment – as well as of peace, knowledge and creativity. One also notes the choice of the colour blue for the Vulcain logo, the sweep seconds hand and the alarm markings. The sapphire crystal window provides an admirable view of the refined movement finishing (Côtes de Genève, anthracite treatment, blued screws and openworked ratchet-wheel), topped by the V for Vulcain. Each of the watches in this special edition comes with its individual certificate.

ATELIER DU BRACELET PARISIEN - ABP 

Paying tribute to French expertise, tradition and excellence, the Manufacture Vulcain has chosen to associate with the famous ABP company located in Paris on the Marché-Saint-Honoré. “Leather artisan, time machine, zoo or travel agency”: the Atelier du Bracelet Parisien (ABP) is all of that rolled into one.

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Above all, it is a firm dedicated to hand craftsmanship. All the straps and other products are entirely made in the Parisian workshop. Enthusiasts can choose from a vast array of hides, colours, shapes, tanning processes and thicknesses. Each strap is thus entirely hand-crafted according to the most stringent quality criteria.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

Ref:  160151.323

Case: 
316L steel Case-back: sapphire crystal featuring the stylised V for Vulcain
Dial:
sunburst silver-toned with rhodiumed hour-markers
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 12.40 mm
Glass: domed glareproofed sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 50 metres /5 ATM
Movement:  
Cricket V-11
12-lignes mechanical hand-wound movement with date,
finely crafted Côtes de Genève finishing,
22 jewels, 191 parts, twin barrels equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° angle of lift
Decoration: meticulous finishing with anthracite treatment, blued screws, openworked ratchet-wheel
Functions:
central hours, minutes and seconds, alarm, date window at 6 o’clock
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 
42 hours Alarm
duration: approx. 20 seconds
Strap:
chestnut brown alligator leather with large scales, seamless grained calfskin lining
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

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 Press Releases 2013
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