Friday, April 5, 2013

Ressence - Type 3


















Ressence - Type 3 NEW

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The Ressence Type 3 transports time from the dial to the crystal. 

The orbiting indications are bathed in a fluid that refracts light like air, so that the indications appear to be displayed directly onto the sapphire crystal – closer to the eye of the beholder. The high-contrast white indicators against the black dial appear to be projected onto the top crystal as if onto a screen. Type 3 offers a tangible feeling of being able to touch time itself.

Discs displaying hours, minutes, seconds and days revolve under the domed sapphire crystal, while the date is read from the perimeter of the dial at 6 o'clock. The indications discs continually revolve, as does the whole dial itself. The face of the watch is constantly changing in the same way that a human face is transformed by each passing emotion.


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LIQUID FILLED
The Ressence Type 3 transports time from the dial to the crystal. The orbiting indications are bathed in a fluid that refracts light like air, so that the indications appear to be displayed directly onto the sapphire crystal – closer to the eye of the beholder. The high-contrast white indicators against the black dial appear to be projected onto the top crystal as if onto a screen. Type 3 offers a tangible feeling of being able to touch time itself.

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The indications and their mechanisms are mounted inside a bubble crafted from extremely tough, anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The complication and indications follow the shape of the crystal. The mechanism (28 gears, 57 jewels) is enclosed in an upper compartment filled with a naphtha-type liquid that has a more similar index of refraction to the sapphire crystal than air does. Refraction bends light when it passes from one material to another, e.g. air-to-glass or glass-to-air. With the fluid-filled dial indications, refraction is greatly minimised, which tricks the brain into seeing the dial in two-dimensions rather than three. A thermal valve automatically adjusts for any expansion or contraction of the fluid.

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TIME DISPLAYED

Discs displaying hours, minutes, seconds and days revolve under the domed sapphire crystal, while the date is read from the perimeter of the dial at 6 o’clock. The indications discs continually revolve, as does the whole dial itself. The face of the watch is constantly changing in the same way that a human face is transformed by each passing emotion.
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The dial and indications are curved (radius 125mm) and treated with DLC (diamond-like carbon). All the components are titanium with the exception of the gears. The indications, engraved in the discs are filled with Super-LumiNova (white, grey and orange). The display system has been invented developed and patented by Ressence and comprises 28 gears and 57 jewels (out of 82 jewels in total), three offset bi-axial satellites and an exterior date ring. The upper module also includes a water-resistant seal, a shock absorption system and is totally filled with fluid. A thermostatic valve system allows for any expansion or contraction of the liquid due to the ambient temperature. By virtue of the convex curve of the dial, the angle of the satellite indications is approximately 3° for the hours and 4.75° for the seconds.

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NO HANDS, NO CROWN

Ressence design is characterised by purity and minimalism. This quest for pared-down design includes the process of dematerialising the timepiece; a process illustrated by the elimination of traditional hands and by the invisible fluid technology used to project the indications. And by removing the crown, the TYPE 3 opens up a whole new chapter in this quest for simplicity. The sapphire case back fulfils the functions of the crown with quadrants on the case back replacing different crown positions. The Type 3 is wound up by turning the case back. To change the date, it is simply necessary to make a longer rotation through 200° in order to arrive at the date quadrant. The hour is set by starting from the neutral position and turning in the direction indicated. A gravitational gearing system allows time setting to be disconnected by simply inverting the watch.
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Technical Specifications

FUNCTIONS: Date, Days, Hours, Minutes, Seconds ( 360’’ )
ARCHITECTURE: Sandwich construction with titanium membrane between movement and fluid-filled indication module.
SYSTEM: Information transmitted from movement to indications by micro-magnetic fields .
CASE: Sapphire crystal and grade 5 titanium
DIMENSIONS: 44mm x 15mm
CRYSTALS: Domed sapphire crystals top and bottom with anti-reflective coating on both sides
INDICATIONS: Convex dial and indications (radius: 125mm) in grade 5 titanium with black DLC.
Indications engraved and filled with white, grey and orange Super-LumiNova, glowing green and orange in the dark.
MODULE: Patented system invented and developed by Ressence.
Independent module comprising 28 gears and 57 jewels
Grade 5 titanium plate integrating three eccentric biaxial satellites inclined at 3° and 4,75° with a date ring around the circumference. 
Shock absorber system. 
The module and indications are completely immersed in fluid.
A thermal valve compensates for expansion/contraction of the fluid
MOVEMENT: Automatic winding movement, 25 jewels
Power reserve 36 hours,
Balance frequency 28.800 A/h
Visible ring-shape winding rotor
COMPONANTS: Total of 407 components.
WEIGHT: 175 grams.


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www.facebook.com - RessenceTime
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Ressence.eu

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Fonderie 47- Inversion Principle Limited Edition













Fonderie 47 - Inversion Principle Limited Edition NEW

Profile Peter Thum, founder of Fonderie 47























Fonderie 47 CEO and founder Peter Thum began his business career with Gallo Winery and McKinsey & Company before becoming a social entrepreneur. Visits to Africa highlighted the widespread health issues caused by the lack of clean water and led Thum to launch the bottled water brand 'Ethos Water' in 2003 to fund safe-water projects in Africa.
Starbucks bought Ethos Water in 2005 and after the sale, Thum served as Vice President of Starbucks Corporation, operating the Ethos Water business, and as a Director of the Starbucks Foundation. Ethos Water has helped around half a million people around the world to gain access to safe water, sanitation and hygiene education.


While visiting safe water projects in Africa, Thum became aware of the problems caused by widespread availability of assault rifles, in particular the ubiquitous AK47. He decided to launch a luxury brand − something sending a positive message and far removed from the destructive arms − the profits from which would be used to destroy and eliminate these weapons. In 2009 Fonderie 47 was launched, a venture that transforms AK47s from Africa into rare jewelry and exclusive high-end Swiss timepieces, which in turn fund the destruction of more weapons − over 30,000 destroyed to date.
Peter Thum also founded and is President of the non-profit Giving Water, which has helped over 6,000 schoolchildren in Africa to gain water and sanitation access and is Board Director of The Fund for Global Human Rights and an adviser to FEED Projects.






Fonderie 47 background

Fonderie 47 − 'fonderie' is French for foundry (for melting and casting metal),'47' for AK47 − was founded in 2009 by Peter Thum with the goal of reducing the number of destabilizing assault weapons in Africa. Thum realized the enormous problem these weapons created, having met boys and young men armed with assault rifles, and the victims of these weapons, while developing clean water projects in east Africa.




















There are millions of assault weapons in Africa. A large majority of these are AK47 variants. In Africa, assault rifles cost about 70% less than anywhere else in the world. While prices of AK47s have generally risen worldwide over the last three decades, they have fallen in Africa due to the sheer number of weapons and ease of availability.

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Thum decided to transform these implements of devastation into something as removed from them and as positive as possible, i.e. exclusive objects that would inspire change and fund the destruction of weapons.

The mission to create a high-end mechanical watch incorporating metal from a destroyed AK47 began even before Fonderie 47 was founded, because it quickly became clear that the development and production of a completely original complicated haute horlogerie timepiece would take many years. Fonderie 47 has also worked with some of the world’s best designers and jewelers to create artistic pieces made from AK47 steel, precious metals and jewels.
Working with the Nobel Prize winning NGO Mines Advisory Group, to date Fonderie 47 has funded the destruction of over 30,000 assault rifles in war zones in Africa



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                           Inversion Principle by Fonderie 47
Central Three-Minute Flying Tourbillion, Instantaneous Jumping Hours with Quick-Set Pusher, 240° Retrograde Minutes, Lateral and Back Power Reserve Indicators

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Inversion Principle is a completely original timepiece, designed by Adrian Glessing and developed and produced by David Candaux/Du Val Des Bois exclusively for Fonderie 47.
Revenues from the sale of each timepiece will be used fund the destruction of one thousand assault weapons in Africa, creating a safer environment for aid and development. This is a strategy that Peter Thum already implemented successfully in creating Ethos Water to fund clean water projects in Africa and around the world.
While Inversion Principle is first and foremost a very exclusive haute horlogerie timepiece, subtle elements and mechanisms discreetly feature key attributes of the AK47. Each timepiece incorporates a plate on the back made from the transformed steel of a destroyed assault weapon.

Inversion Principle had to reflect the finest Swiss watchmaking traditions; our principles and our mission; and be truly innovative all at the same time. That was no easy task, but thanks to a great team, I think we well and truly achieved that aim.” Peter Thum (Fonderie 47 founder)

Inversion Principle: Orbiting on high above the movement, the central 3-minute flying tourbillon dominates the three-dimensional dial and mesmerizes the eye. Three second-hands, equally spaced 120° apart around the tourbillon cage, arc sedately across the seconds-scale above the tourbillon and 'Fonderie 47': 'Sedately' because tourbillon revolves at just 1/3 of the speed of a traditional one-minute tourbillon. While only one second-hand is visible at any time − the other two are hidden under the gold rifle-sight inspired frame set into the sapphire crystal − their positions are revealed by blued screws joining the outer tourbillon cage and inner three-arm hub.

“I feel one of the biggest achievements of this timepiece is the very logical way you read the time.” Adrian Glessing (Inversion Principle designer)


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A first, or even a second, glance is unlikely to divulge any obvious similarity between jumping hours, retrograde seconds and an AK47; however, avoiding blatantly obvious connections is the aim. On a more ethereal level however, gun mechanisms snap sharply and precisely into place: As does the instantaneous jumping hour at 12 o'clock as it changes the hour; and the large 240° retrograde seconds hand as it flies back to zero each hour across the bottom of the dial. Each press of the quick-set pusher in the crown advances the jumping hours by one hour.
The long 6-day power reserve has both a lateral indication via a sapphire window set into the left side of the case band and a second indication visible through the display back.
The display back reveals the stunning sunray guilloche pattern radiating out from the ratchet wheel, which is capped by a dark plate of transformed steel from a destroyed AK47. The plate is in the form of the Fonderie 47 symbol and rotates as the watch is wound. '56-3701F42', the serial number of the destroyed weapon the metal is from, is elegantly hand engraved beside the plate.

“A mentor taught me what he thought generated the fundamental values of watchmaking: The eye; the hand; and the heart. These are values that guide my work. A timepiece built around these values generates powerful emotions.” David Candaux (Inversion Principle watchmaker)

Inversion Principle is a limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in white gold and 10 in red gold.

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Inversion Principle in detail

"Inversion Principle is the result of a group of extremely talented people willing to do things others deemed impossible, risking something of themselves in the undertaking." Peter Thum 

Movement
When Fonderie 47 founder Peter Thum first approached watchmaker/movement designer David Candaux, it was with a very ambitious request many said was impossible: Create a completely original and distinctive complicated high-end watch using the best of traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques… and it should incorporate aspects of the AK47 rifle, but without obviously looking like an AK47 style watch.
With a three-minute central flying tourbillon, instantaneous jumping hours and retrograde minutes that snap into place in sharp, precise actions similar to gun mechanisms, and a lateral power reserve indication providing a discreet visual link to the ejection port of an AK47, Candaux delivered all that and more.

"Fonderie 47 has allowed us to create a unique timepiece, not simply for the purpose of creating a luxury watch, but for a noble purpose." David Candaux (watchmaker)

Seen through a display back, the back of the movement features a stunning sunray guilloche pattern radiating out from the dark plate of transformed steel from a destroyed AK47 that covers the ratchet wheel. This plate turns when the watch is wound. An opening to the right of the plate offers access to adjust the power reserve mechanism, while a second small opening near the crown reveals part of the winding mechanism. The second power reserve indicator arcs across the top of the back plate.

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Dial
Inversion Principle's three-dimensional indications, rise from the 240° numbers on the flat retrograde minutes ring to the inner inclined minute markers. The blued minute hand has an inclined inner arrow following the angle of the minute marker track.
The three-handed seconds indicator on the tourbillon cage has a retrograde effect complimenting the minutes: The hands disappear after 60 on the right and appear to reappear at 0 on the left.
On either side of the jumping hour window, past and future hours can just be discerned through the translucent crystal ring that circumscribes the dial.

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Case
Ensuring that the complex indications were both easy and logical to read, and that the case and dial blended harmoniously was the role of Geneva-based watch designer, Adrian Glessing.

"We strived to represent the most classical; the most beautiful; and the most technical aspects of what the Swiss industry had to offer, and put it all into one watch." Adrian Glessing (designer)

Myriad details, from the obvious like the gun-sight inspired bezel cross piece delineating the minutes from the central tourbillon to the subtle, like the tapering indents set into the flowing lugs, which visually minimize the height of the case height and the curve of the tourbillon cage following the curve of the sapphire crystal, all contribute to convey luxury and quality.

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Technical Specifications
Inversion Principle
Key features: Central three-minute flying tourbillon; instantaneous jumping hours; 240° retrograde minutes; central seconds from tourbillon cage; crown pusher quick-set hour adjustment; six-day power reserve with both lateral and back indications; metal from transformed assault weapon.

Created by: David Candaux/Du Val Des Bois
Designed by: Adrian Glessing
Place of Manufacture: La Vallée de Joux, Switzerland

Indications: Jumping hours, 240° retrograde minutes; central seconds on tourbillon cage; lateral power reserve indicator on case band and power reserve indicator on back
Case and strap

Material: 18k white gold or 18k red gold
Sapphire crystal traversed by embedded gold bezel bridge framing tourbillon cage
Lateral sapphire window in case band for power reserve indicator
Dimensions: 42mm x 14.6mm
Water resistance: 30m/100’/3ATM
Dial: Translucent glass and sapphire crystal with enameled minutes and seconds
Strap and clasp: hand stitched alligator strap with gold pin buckle matching case. Brown leather with red gold case or black leather with white gold case
Movement

Caliber F47-001
Regulator: Central three-minute flying tourbillon
Tourbillon cage: gold counter weight and curved to follow sapphire crystal
Jumping hour: thin mechanism (patented)
Retrograde seconds: mechanism with light aluminum arm and precision regulator
LIGA plate: platform for tourbillon and fixed seconds wheel by Mimotech
Power reserve: six days
Balance frequency: 18,000bph (2.5Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet overcoil and distinctive balance spring stud
Jewels: 38
Steel plate from transformed AK47 − serial number '56-3701F42' − in form of the Fonderie 47 symbol on ratchet wheel visible through display back.
Finishing: Sun ray guilloche; hand engraving; hand polished bevels; heat-blued screws and power reserve indicator on back.

Limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in 18k white gold, 10 in 18k red gold

 350 000,00 $

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Fonderie47.com

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Techné Instruments - Harrier NEW collection












Techné Instruments - HARRIER NEW collection

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Techné Instruments unveils the Harrier, a modern interpretation of the classical fliegeruhr (military pilot watch).

Two years in the making, the display of the Harrier borrows cues from iconic navigation and timing instruments of the 20th century. The oversize minute tracks and Arabic numerals are inspired by altimeters and vintage German pilot timekeepers.

Techne Instruments - Harrier 363.031

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Techne Instruments - Harrier 363.132

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The hollow luminous hands are borrowed from navigation compasses and the two dots by the 12 o'clock mark are borrowed from the British Wrist Watch Waterproof standard. The flagship model of this new collection is the reference 363, powered by a novel self-winding mechanical calibre supplied by Citizen Holdings, the world's number 2 watch company.

Techne Instruments - Harrier 392.051

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Techne Instruments - Harrier 392.051

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Founded in 1918, the Citizen watch company released their first truly efficient shock-protection in 1956. Nineteen years later, they released a 11½ calibre that proved so reliable it is still in demand today. After 1975, this calibre 8200 allowed Miyota to develop 12 variations, of which the 8217 is used in a custom version by Techné since 2010.

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During the first decade of the 21st century, Miyota began developing of a new 11½ calibre that would exceed the 8200 in terms of performance, refinement and slimness. Miyota relied on their near-centurial experience in industrial watchmaking and proprietary technology to design and industrialize the new calibre 9000.

 On the Harrier Ref. 375 & 392, Miyota's innovative calendar mechanism makes the date window 45% bigger than the norm





















Positively reviewed by watchmakers, the cost-efficient Miyota 9015 calibre offers a thinness of 3.90 mm, a high-torque, a generous power reserve of 42 hours and the accuracy of a high-beat inline anchor lever paced at 28,800 alternance per hour.

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All 9015 movements used by Techné are manually fine-tuned in three positions to run within COSC rates (-4 to +6 seconds per day), which entitles the watches to bear the “Opus Manufactum” label (Latin for “hand-worked”).

Measuring 41.0 mm in diameter with a total thickness of 11.1 mm, the Harrier comes with a scratch-proof front sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflection coating. The reference 363.0 comes in brushed surgical 316L stainless steel and the reference 363.1 comes with a sand-blasted finishing and an aeronautical surface-hardening PVD coating. Both versions use a screw-down crown, are water resistant to 5 bar, and are available on a choice of 15 different straps.

Techne Instruments - Harrier 392.153

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Techne Instruments - Harrier 363.1

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www.horozima.com

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 TechneWatches.biz

Monday, April 1, 2013

ARNOLD & SON - HMS Victory Set Limited edition

















ARNOLD & SON - HMS Victory Set Limited edition NEW


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An exquisitely crafted and engraved homage to a legendary vessel: the HMS Victory Set from the Arnold & Son Royal Collection


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Expertly handcrafted, it reflects the elegance and sophistication of the inimitable English style and was inspired by the timepieces produced by John Arnold for King George III and the royal court. The HMS Victory Set is an impressive demonstration of the brand’s prowess in classical decorative hand engraving.

ARNOLD & SON - HMS Victory Set Limited Edition 1LCAP.S05A.C110A

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The name HMS Victory is one of the best known in English maritime history. Her glorious career spanned forty years, during which she saw action in the American War of Independence, the French Revolutionary War and the Napoleonic wars. It was in the latter that she enjoyed her finest hour as Lord Nelson’s flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. Now, the HMS Victory Set from Arnold & Son presents three different views of the vessel, each traditionally hand-chased by Arnold & Son’s master engraver.

Arnold & Son’s own master engraver created the exquisite HMS Victory Set dials, which are then duplicated in silver for the series. Hand-engraving is a traditional art form that involves the use of hardened steel tools called burins in combination with other special tools. These create cuts, lines and texturing that build up entire images or, as in the case of this exclusive set of timepieces, perfectly sculpted scenes of the HMS Victory with a breathtaking richness of detail.

ARNOLD & SON - HMS Victory Set Limited Edition 1LCAP.S06A.C110A

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The scenes in the HMS Victory Set give us three different views of the vessel: the first, resplendent in shafts of sunlight breaking through the clouds; the second, with guns ablaze as she rakes the French fleet; and the third, an interior of the ship, on one of the gun decks. The three-dimensional nature of these hand-engraved dials is accentuated by the engraver who then individually hand-tarnishes each final duplicated silver dial to provide all a spectacular illustration of this extraordinary ship with illusion of depth that contrasts starkly with the ultra-slim case.

ARNOLD & SON - A&S1001 calibre

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All three models in the HMS Victory Set are powered by the A&S1001 calibre with haute horlogerie finishing. The movement is made of rhodium-plated nickel-silver and features hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes (radiating Geneva stripes), with blued screws.

ARNOLD & SON - HMS Victory Set Limited Edition 1LCAP.S07A.C110A

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The HMS Victory timepieces will be available firstly in an exclusive limited edition of just 28 sets, each consisting of the three timepieces. The HMS Victory timepiece with the scene entitled ‘‘HMS Victory – Where the battle was won: one of the cannons deck on HMS Victory’’ will be available only as part of the set.

Press release
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Technical Specifications

Calibre
A&S1001
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement,
hand-wound, 21 jewels, diameter 30 mm, thickness 2.7 mm,
power reserve 80 h, two barrels, 21'600 vibrations/h
Functions
Hours, minutes
Movement decoration
18-carat rose gold case:n ickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with
Haute Horlogerie finishing: manually chamfered bridges with polished edges,
fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, blued screws
Dial
Hand-engraved, duplicated silver dials, individually hand-tarnished
Case
18-carat rose gold, diameter 40 mm,
cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides,
case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30 m
Strap
Hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather
Limited edition
28 sets of 3 timepieces
References
1LCAP.S06A.C110A HMS Victory – Cannons ablaze, Lord Nelson’s flagship takes on the French fleet
1LCAP.S05A.C110A HMS Victory – HMS Victory at sea, lit by rays of sunshine piercing the clouds
1LCAP.S07A.C110A HMS Victory – Where the battle was won: one of the cannons deck on HMS Victory

Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
CH – 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@arnoldandson.com
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www.arnoldandson.com- press-corner
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www.Arnold&Son.com

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Girard-Perregaux - Constant Escapement



Girard-Perregaux - BRIDGES Constant Escapement 2013

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THE CONSTANT ESCAPEMENT AT A GLANCE

A true technical revolution that stunned connoisseurs when some prototypes of the innovative mechanism were first presented, the Constant Escapement is now integrated into the movements driving the new models of Girard-Perregaux’s Haute Horlogerie collection. It has taken five years of research and development in virtually unexplored territory to consolidate and ensure the reliability of this significant step in watchmaking history.

The name, in addition to being a nod to one of the Maison's historical figures, Constant Girard-Perregaux, also refers to a holy grail in mechanical watchmaking that has perplexed watchmakers since the dawn of time: the constant force. Keeping true to its innovative vision, the brand decided to try using a quite novel approach to achieve it.

The concept presented on that occasion in the form of a functional mechanism was breathtaking, promising and poetic: the design was lightweight and graceful. However, the goal was far from being the result of art for art's sake, this was a new and convincing answer to the age-old preoccupation in watchmaking: the precision and regularity of a mechanical watch. 
 
To get an idea of what is at stake and truly understand the importance of this innovation, it is worth recalling a few basic notions. The heart of a mechanical watch is ruled by the regulating organ, which manages the flow rate of the energy received from the barrel to drive the gear train and the rotation speed of the hands. The classic image is that of a faucet managing the flow of water.

The main factor is not so much the speed of the beats of this heart, the chosen frequency, but their regularity. The dance can be three in a bar or four in a bar, or even a thousand; but the essential thing is that it keeps the beat over time.

All sorts of systems had been dreamed up before the famous Swiss lever escapement was presented in wristwatches, and became more or less standard. Yet it suffers from one drawback: it can only give back the energy it receives from the barrel, which diminishes with time. This energy, which defines its timekeeping accuracy, is too fast to start with, and finishes like a machine running out of steam. A curve, the curse and the bane of watchmakers, illustrates the phenomenon: the curve of the amplitude, or angular displacement of a sprung balance wheel or a pendulum, which lessens towards the end of the run. 
 
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The principle of a constant force escapement is that whatever the energy supplied by the barrel, the escapement returns a constant energy to the regulator (balance wheel). To achieve this, they had the brilliant idea of integrating an intermediate device into the escapement, consisting of an extremely thin blade that stores the energy up to an invariable threshold bordering on instability, and then transmits it all instantaneously, before recommencing the cycle.

The inspiration came from an experiment, which anyone can repeat by holding a train ticket vertically between thumb and forefinger, bending it to form a C or an open round bracket. If you then apply pressure from the side you will feel resistance until the moment when the card snaps to the other side to mirror its former shape, and close the round bracket. Try it with a business card, it works every time. 


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The phenomenon of instability is known as buckling, which is the passage from a state of compression to one of bending. Spring specialists thus speak of buckled blades. Here, the silicon blade measures a quarter of a hair's thickness and plays the role of a microaccumulator of energy. This blade is flexed to a point as close as possible to its unstable state, and only needs an infinitesimal quantity of energy a micro-impulse given by the balance wheel (less perturbing than in a lever escapement) for it to snap from one state to the other, and in the process, to push the balance wheel forward, compensating for the variable energy of the barrel and liberating the same quantity of energy every time. 

Unlike other systems that propose a constant force averaged over time, this is an authentic constant force escapement, as the force is instantaneous and continuous. And indeed, it is quite measurable using laboratory testing methods. Drawback: it can only give back the energy it receives from the barrel, which diminishes with time. This energy, which defines its timekeeping accuracy, is too fast to start with, and finishes like a machine running out of steam. A curve, the curse and the bane of watchmakers, illustrates the phenomenon: the curve of the amplitude, or angular displacement of a sprung balance wheel or a pendulum, which lessens towards the end of the run.

The principle of a constant force escapement is that whatever the energy supplied by the barrel, the escapement returns a constant energy to the regulator (balance wheel). To achieve this, they had the brilliant idea of integrating an intermediate device into the escapement, consisting of an extremely thin blade that stores the energy up to an invariable threshold bordering on instability, and then transmits it all instantaneously, before recommencing the cycle. 
 
 Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size  ....

The inspiration came from an experiment, which anyone can repeat by holding a train ticket vertically between thumb and forefinger, bending it to form a C or an open round bracket. If you then apply pressure from the side you will feel resistance until the moment when the card snaps to the other side to mirror its former shape, and close the round bracket. Try it with a business card, it works every time.


The phenomenon of instability is known as buckling, which is the passage from a state of compression to one of bending. Spring specialists thus speak of buckled blades. Here, the silicon blade measures one sixth of a hair's thickness and plays the role of a micro-accumulator of energy. This blade is flexed to a point as close as possible to its unstable state, and only needs an infinitesimal quantity of energy a micro-impulse given by the balance wheel (less perturbing than in a lever escapement) for it to snap from one state to the other, and in the process, to push the balance wheel forward, compensating for the variable energy of the barrel and liberating the same quantity of energy every time. 
 
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Unlike other systems that propose a constant force averaged over time, this is an authentic constant force escapement, as the force is instantaneous and continuous. And indeed, it is quite measurable using laboratory testing methods.

The designers chose a symmetrical double construction. This was not for aesthetic reasons, but to balance the forces at the center of the balance wheel and avoid a concentration of constraints at that point in order to ensure totally unencumbered rotation.

The blade is formed in one piece with the frame which holds it by both ends and plays a decisive role in the very precise locking of the point of contact for the micro-impulse which will make it snap over. The relatively simple principle brings with it the need for absolute precision to put it into practice, which would have been impossible before the use of silicon and the arrival of new part manufacturing techniques, such as deep reactive ion etching (DRIE). The partnership with the CSEM (Swiss Electronics and Micro-engineering Centre) in Neuchâtel, Switzerland was decisive. Watchmaking experts and physicists carried out complex calculations to determine the characteristics of the blade, and the many factors governing the buckling point. In the end, the structure of the device incorporating the blade is monolithic. It is held in virtual levitation and undergoes no friction except at the moment of the impulse and the flexing of the blade. The energy of the blade is directly transmitted  back to the balance wheel. 
 
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Since the blade is the key element of the Constant Escapement, its natural vibration governed the choice of frequency: it will be 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) for the magic to work. But the future remains open, and tests have already been carried out at other frequencies. In any case, the challenge here is not about high frequencies.

The two escapement wheels look nothing like those found in a lever escapement. They have three teeth for a frequency of 3 Hz, and would need four for 4 Hz. The movement was designed to run for several days with a linear power reserve indicator on the dial, demonstrating the efficiency of this escapement in the long run. The energy is supplied by two barrels coupled in parallel (a new patented design): the cover and the ratchet are a single piece to maximize the thickness available and each drum contains two springs stacked in series. Two other patents have been filed: one for the blade naturally, filed back in 2008, the other for the incorporation of limit stops in a flexible system.

 Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size BIG FOTO ....


While silicon was the material of choice for its ideal properties in the design and manufacture of the blade, it may be replaced by other materials for escapement wheels, while the movement blanks are in brass coated in black PVD for a contemporary look. The movement's aesthetic is meant to be technical, three-dimensional, but also to give a nod to tradition, with references to the brand's icons such as its famous three Bridges, laid out in a fresh way on its dial side, while on the back there are two arrow bridges.

To cap it all, this revolutionary movement looks ahead to after sales servicing right from the drawing board stage: the whole of the escapement is a module and can be handled by a specialized watchmaker.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS


Reference: 93500-53-131-BA6C
 
 
Case: white gold
Diameter: 48.00 mm
Glass: domed anti-reflective sapphire
Crown: white gold with engraved GP logo
Dial: silvered with grained finish and rhodium-plated appliques
Hands: dauphine style
Case back: sapphire glass, secured with 6 screws, all inscriptions hand engraved
Water resistance: 30 meters
Girard-Perregaux movement MVT-009100-0007
manual mechanical movement
Caliber: 17½ ’’’
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz)
Power reserve: Approximately one week
Jewels: 28
Number of components: 271
Functions: hour, minute, central second, linear power reserve
Black alligator strap
White gold folding clasp


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