Thursday, May 3, 2012

JAQUET DROZ - SW Tourbillon

JAQUET DROZ - Grande Seconde SW Tourbillon NEW


THE SPORTS WATCH (SW) LINE BY JAQUET DROZ

Sporting values may be seen as the latest thing, but Jaquet Droz adopted them from the start. Today, these values are integral to the brand's passion for measuring each moment of passing time and creating fabulous instruments to do it with. Its sports watch (SW) line is composed of timepieces with which house innovation is definitely... in time. Fine materials join forces with natural rubber and Super-LumiNova to produce a striking visual effect, backed by various exciting surprises on the technology front.







































GRANDE SECONDE SW STEEL-RUBBER

When a great classic combines the excellence of traditional watchmaking with the exploits of modern-day technology, it is only natural to expect perfection.

Setting out to develop the Grande Seconde SW Steel-Rubber, Jaquet Droz mobilized the best that its craftsmanship and philosophy had to offer. Its artisans drew inspiration from the brand's unique heritage and history to produce a futuristic model using the revolutionary design of the Grande Seconde and cutting-edge materials. The goal was to create a remarkable, sleek model featuring marvels of innovation... Mission accomplished!








































The perfect lines of this dial are obtained in a complex process performed on a single solid block of steel, hollowed to lower the surface level. The elegant balance of the fine-brushed figure eight, the fineness of its spine and the red Super-LumiNova coating on hands and indicators – the red accentuates the depth of the black – all contribute to a refined interplay of volumes, colors and reflections of light. Also hollowed, the plates discreetly stress the dominance of rounded contours. An impression of comfort also prevails: since the bracelet is made of steel – a first for Jaquet Droz – and clad in supple natural rubber, the Grande Seconde SW Steel-Rubber feels surprisingly light and unexpectedly warm. For those who love truly fine watches, this timepiece represents the ultimate in luxury for everyday wear. 


TOURBILLON

In 2011, Jaquet Droz surprised the world of watchmaking by incorporating the tourbillon, a complication that frees the mechanical watch from the effects of gravity, into the brand's iconic Grande Seconde model, whose dial design takes inspiration from a house leitmotif: the number eight.

Today, Jaquet Droz has decided to reinvent this fusion: for the first time, it will be including one of watchmaking's most challenging complications in its line of sports watches (SW), the first of which was presented in 2008.

To meet the challenge, the master artisans from La Chaux-de-Fonds pushed back the limits of watchmaking mechanics. Inserted at the top of the dial, the tourbillon reveals the extraordinary complexity of its mechanism. The upper bridge has been changed to perform the function of the seconds hand, whose elegant profile harmonizes with the sporty look of the watch.

Positioned opposite, the hours and minutes counter uses classical Roman numerals, giving them, as well as the hands, a coat of white Super-LumiNova to set up a contrast with the black rubber treatment of the dial. Set horizontally, the plates, carefully secured with screws, convey the perfect graphic balance and chromatic harmony of the Tourbillon. This visual and technical performance comes in a generously sized 45 mm case whose look of power is highlighted by the precious shimmer of red gold and the fine fluting on the bezel. The alligator strap – used for the first time for a sports watch – brings its own special gleam to this exceptional timepiece.

The Tourbillon expresses the love of sports in perfect luxury.

--------------------------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:
Reference J030033240
Movement: Jaquet Droz 25JD-S

self-winding tourbillon movement, simple barrel, 
18-carat white gold oscillating weight with black PVD finish
Indications: Hours and minutes at 6 o'clock
Tourbillon frame and seconds bridge with white Super-Luminova tip at 12 o'clock
Jewelling:  31 jewels
Power reserve: 7 days
Frequency:  21,600 v.p.h
Case: 18-carat red gold, diameter Ø 45 mm. 

Individual serial number relief-engraved on the case-back
Water resistance:  To 5 bar (50 meters)
Dial: Black with rubber treatment
Applied:  18-carat red gold ring and plates
Hands: 18-carat red gold hours and minutes, white Super-LumiNova tips
Strap: Rolled-edge hand made inserted black alligator leather strap with black stitches
Buckle: 18-carat red gold folding clasp with black PVD finish
Montres Jaquet Droz SA · Allée du Tourbillon 2 · CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds                             
tel. +41 (0)32 924 28 88 · fax +41 (0)32 924 28 82 

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 www.jaquet-droz.com

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

H. Moser & Cie - Meridian Dual Time

















H. Moser & Cie - Meridian - Dual Time


The movement exclusive to the Meridian - Dual Time combines well-known and popular complications with a special new feature: an AM/PM display, which changes automatically from 12 to 24 hours. The prominent window at the top of the dial displays a 12 in the morning (AM) and a 24 in the afternoon (PM) for the home time zone. The somewhat smaller red hour hand for the second time zone can be adjusted forwards or backwards in steps of one hour by means of the crown. Thanks to Moser’s patented Double Pull Crown system, the central position of the crown can be easily located without the watch being inadvertently stopped or the home time being adjusted. If the second time zone is not required, the different-coloured hour hand is hidden under the normal hour hand and thus moves along with it unseen.































With a power reserve of 72 hours, i.e. three full days, the Moser automatic movement HMC 346.121 is one of the longest-running models available. The large, solid gold rotor bears the engraved company seal, a symbol of the quality and authenticity of every Moser watch for 185 years.
























The rotor transfers its energy to the large barrel by means of a pawl winding system which is wound up in either direction. One of the two pawls turns the pawl wheel on pull, the other on push. The accuracy of the Meridian - Dual Time is assured by Moser’s characteristic interchangeable escapement module which, naturally, also features a Straumann Hairspring, produced in-house, a Breguet overcoil and a pallet fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold.
The Meridian - Dual Time also has Moser’s characteristic freely formed lateral surfaces on the case flanks. The see-through sapphire glass back of the watch allows the observer a closer look at the new mechanical automatic movement developed by Moser.






























Alternating 12-and 24-hour display
To indicate morning and afternoon, the Meridian - Dual Time uses a completely innovative system. A slide, moving back and forth, contains only the digits 1, 2 and 4. The correct display is achieved by either the digit 4 being hidden to the right of the window in the dial or the digit 1 being hidden under the dial to the left. The change of display at noon or at midnight takes only a second to complete. This has been accomplished by using a spring, which gains tension over a period of about eight hours without affecting the workings of the rest of the movement. Twice a day, the power of this spring is released at once to produce the rapid movement of the slide.

 .-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Technical details   
Meridian - Dual Time
Reference No. 346.121-024

Case  
Platinum, three-part, round case
Graining and polished finish
Diameter 40.80 mm
Height 10.97 mm
Gold crown with «M» sign 6.00 mm
Sapphire crystal with internal antireflective coating
See-through cambered sapphire glass black
Movement
Automatic caliber HMC 346.121
Manufactured mechanical
No movement holding ring
Diameter 34.00 mm
Height 6.51 mm
Number of jewels 29
Frequency 18'000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve of at least 3 days
Adjustment 6 positions
Automatic pawl winding system
Solid gold rotor
Moser tooth system in wheel train and pinions
Moser interchangeable escapement
Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilized Breguet overcoil
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of hardened solid gold
Functions
Second Time Zone Display
12-and 24-Hour Display
Double Pull Crown Mechanism
Patented winding system with two fixed stops
Hacking Second
Display 
Ardoise slate dial with sun pattern ground finish with diamond polished indexes
Hours, minutes, off-centered pocket watch size second with three-dimensional form hands with a bright-polished eye
Second time zone display indicated by a centered red hour hands
12-and 24-hour display at 12 o’clock
Strap and buckle
Hand-sewn black alligator leather strap
Solid platinum folding clasp with Moser logo

---------------------------------------------------
www.h-moser.com