Saturday, April 28, 2012

Habring - Doppel 2.0 Doppelchronograph

Habring - Doppel 2.0 Doppelchronograph NEW 

Twenty years ago, Richard Habring created the world's first affordable split-seconds chronograph in the IWC Doppelchronograph.  He did it with a bit of genius engineering that turned the ubiquitons Valjoux 7750 into a very special watch.  But, in the past twenty years, a lot has changed - like for example, Richard





































Habring left IWC to start Habring² with his wife Maria, and just last month, the 20 year patent on the doppelchronograph that Habring designed for IWC expired.  What does that mean? It means that Richard Habring can make an updated watch of the doppelchronograph under his own name, and that is exactly what you see above.  Click through for a detailed look at the Doppelchronograph and the new Doppel 2.0 - with technical thoughts from Richard Habring himself.
 
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With IWC’s patent on Richard Habring’s own invention finally ineffectual, Habring2 is releasing its own fresh take on the Doppelchronograph. The watch actually improves upon the original version. How is this possible? To understand this, let’s take a look at how the Doppel works.
The integration of the split function inside the Valjoux 7750 was not easy due to the fact that the movement comes pre-built with automatic winding which denies access to the central chronograph seconds wheel. Habring’s solution was simple and effective. As he explains, “we got a hamburger, took off the upper bun, laid a slice of cheese inside and closed it again.”
Of course this analogy is an oversimplification, since the new split-seconds mechanism contains levers, springs, a cam and a pincer. Actually the cam-layout was what deserved the patent since previously, split second mechanisms were operated by a separate column wheel. Maria Habring explains: “The column wheel looks nice – no doubt about that – but technically it represents watchmaking technology of the 19th century. It’s difficult to produce and quite expensive as well when adjusting the movement and all its functions. Column wheel operated splits if not adjusted perfectly can be misoperated if the pusher does not get pushed in fully. Before shifting, the pincer may open or close already, the column wheel may be stuck intermediately for example.

The cam-operated split mechanism does not have these problems at all. Richard Habring adds that, “finally the 7750-based chrono is a cam-operated modern design. Adding a column wheel disrespects Edmond Capt’s (Ed: father of the Valjoux 7750) genius take on this design!”
Probably the most difficult detail in the original IWC Doppelchronograph was the redesign of the split shaft. In order to allow the 10.5mm-long split axle to go through the central chrono seconds axle, it had to be enlarged in diameter and drilled through. The final version has a diameter of 0.5mm and a length of about 9mm and features a hole of 0.34mm. Drilling such a hole with conventional methods is almost impossible so the first prototypes made use of parts from syringe needles.

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The Habring2 Doppel 2.0 is a logical next generation double chronograph. Even aesthetically, the watch is a departure from the first version. It does away with the traditional tri-compax layout so familiar to Valjoux-based chronographs, instead opting for a simpler, more classic dual-register dial, with running seconds on the left and elapsed minutes on the right and overlaid center seconds hands. The distinctive third chronograph pusher at 10:00 is the giveaway that this is a double chronograph. The dial can be had in galvanized blue, brown or slate gray and has radial minute markers and an outer demarcated second’s track. The overall effect is a blend of modern and classic, a stark contrast to the more sober IWC Doppelchronographs, which are clearly designed to be tool watches. While the original Doppel found its roots in aviation where the use of a split-function is not that important, the Habring²-Doppel is reminiscent to the time when sports timekeeping was done with mechanical stopwatches.

























The Habring2 calibre A08MR, while still based on a Valjoux 7750 introduces several key improvements over Habring’s first, twenty-year old, iteration.  Aside from the dial layout, the main differences are inside the split-seconds function. While the original Doppel movement was – due to the necessary integration of the split module inside the existing movement – rather complex, the second generation has a simplified bridge-layout which improves accessibility for service purposes.

 The Habring2 calibre A08MR 

Habring2 is based in Völkermarkt, Austria and produces only about 80 watches annually. As a humble husband and wife team, the Habrings like to consider their company the “smallest watch manufacture in the world.” While not a true manufacture that builds everything from blued screws to balance spring yet, Habring2 cares more about building a small number of unique and reliable watches. The timepieces have been largely based on ETA calibers up to now, but this will change in the next year due, of course, to the Swatch Group’s strategic decision not to provide base movements to other companies. To keep things simple, most Habring2 watches are housed in 42mm cases made by renowned German case maker, Fricker, though a few models and are now available in a smaller 36mm-case.
With such limited production of its watches, you can be assured if you own a Habring2 you’re not likely to see one on anyone else’s wrist and that’s part of the appeal. We’re excited about the Doppel 2.0 because it is yet another significant milestone from a company whose watchmaker is the father of the modern double chronograph.

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 www.Habring.com

Friday, April 27, 2012

Bulgari - Diagono Ceramic Chronograph

Bulgari - Diagono Ceramic Chronograph NEW


The new Diagono Ceramic proudly proclaims the resolutely contemporary and sporting vocation it has successfully maintained from the time of its launch. Interpreted in steel/ceramic & pink gold/ceramic versions, Diagono plays on its size as well as the colour of its bezel and of the natural rubber strap, depending on whether it is designed for men or women. In both cases, this new model asserts its undeniable presence as a distinctive timepiece and an efficient measuring instrument.
Several signature features set the seal on the Diagono collection, making it a coveted style icon : the double Brand logo engraving on the bezel; a skilfully structured case based on a complex construction; and the instantly recognisable screws securing it to the strap.
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Dynamic and contemporary aesthetic appeal
Born over 20 years ago, the Diaaono line is nurtured by history and ancient mythology, an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Bulgari. Subtly evoking the Ancient Greek word agòn, meaning “competition”, the name of the model echoes the Discobulus of Myron, the famous Greek sculpture of a discus thrower underlying the aesthetic essence of this dynamically contemporary model. Its roots firmly planted in Ancient Greece bear vivid testimony to its timeless modernity.
The line has ingeniously evolved over the years, acquiring a slimmer, purer bezel providing a broader dial opening that guarantees optimal readability of the information.
Loyal to its enduring spirit, the Diagono 2012 vintage reinterprets the fundamental values of the line through a bold and refined approach. In its masculine version, this elegant chronograph features a steel or 18-carat satin-finished pink gold case measuring 42 mm in diameter. The delicately softened angles, together with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, endow it with a strong personality entirely in tune with its vocation as a sports instrument.
The overall effect is accentuated by a satin-finish black ceramic bezel bearing the double Brand logo. It is matched by chronograph pushers also made from this high-tech material, along with a ceramic-set steel or 18-carat pink gold crown.






































Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size .

A pure, powerful dial
Diagono Ceramic is powered by Calibre B130, a mechanical self-winding movement equipped with a chronograph module. The functions are reflected on an extremely pure deep-black dial in the two men’s versions, bearing three short-time hour, minute and seconds measurement counters that are either silver- or gold-toned depending on the version. The hands adopt the same colour codes in accordance with the version, while the date appears through a window at 4.30.
This distinctive watch is teamed with a mono-block black rubber strap featuring steel or 18-carat gold inserts, ensuring an excellent hold on the wrist as well as a supple and comfortable feel. It is connected to the case via an extremely sophisticated screw-type lug system guaranteeing an ergonomic fit.
The masculine version of the Diagono Ceramic is matched by an exquisitely feminine and slightly smaller version that nonetheless carries all the collection’s keynote design codes.

























Immaculate whiteness and dimensions tailored to feminine tastes



This 37 mm variation intended for women is adorned with a steel or satin-finish 18-carat pink gold case, topped with a glowing white ceramic bezel. The chronograph pushers are also made from white ceramics, as is the steel or satin-finish 18-carat pink gold crown equally set with this elegant and contemporary material.
The sporty vocation of this Diagono Ceramic is slightly softened by the immaculate radiance of the colour matched by the white mother-of-pearl dial set with eight brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers. Like its masculine counterpart, this chronograph is driven by self-winding Calibre B130 and displays the three classic short-time measurement counters for the hours, minutes and seconds, as well as the date at 4.30.
Now clearly evolving in a sphere beyond the reach of ephemeral trends, Diagono Ceramic thus escapes the grasp of time in this model imbued with timeless values expressed through harmonious proportions, and vividly symbolising refined equilibrium in terms of both form and substance.

Techncical Data
Movement
Calibre BVL 130, mechanical self-winding with displays of the date and chronograph, personalised for Bulgari.
Côtes de Genève, circular-grained and snailed motifs.
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 42 hours
37 jewels
Diameter: 28.60 mm
Thickness: 6.10 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, chronograph, date at 4.30; seconds, hours and minutes counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock respectively.

Case
Steel or 18-carat pink gold, 42 mm in diameter (Men’s version) and 37 mm in diameter (Ladies’ version), ceramic bezel; ceramic chronograph pushers, screw-lock ceramic-set crown; scratch-resistant glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 100 m (Men’s version) and 50 m (Ladies’ version)

Dial
Men’s version: black dial, rhodiumed or pink gold-plated hour-markers with Superluminova®, rhodiumed or pink gold-plated facetted hands with SuperLuminova®.
Hand-applied facetted hour-markers on the dial and inner bezel ring; facetted hands with Superluminova® C1 treatment.
Ladies’ version: white mother-of-pearl dial, 8 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers; rhodiumed or pink gold-plated facetted open-worked hands.

Strap
Mono-block black rubber strap with steel or 18-carat pink gold inserts (Men’s version); and white rubber (Ladies’ version).
Steel or 18-carat pink gold pin buckle, depending on the model.


 www.Hautehorlogerie.org

Bulgari.com