Thursday, May 4, 2017

ORIS – Big Crown 1917 Edition

















ORISBig Crown 1917 Steel 40mm Limited Edition

A lifetime in flight

Oris celebrates the discovery of its first pilot’s wristwatch with a special limited edition piece made in homage to the original

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Events of the past don’t change, but our understanding of them can. Until recently, Oris believed that its first pilot’s watch was the Big Crown of 1938, an iconic piece of design named after its oversized crown that still informs the company’s aviation-inspired watches today. But a recent discovery made it clear history had a different story to tell.

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Recent research in the company’s Hölstein archives (Oris has been on the same site since it was founded in 1904) revealed that Oris first made watches for pilots in the early 1910s. One catalogue featured a pocket watch with a Blériot airplane engraved on its case. Louis Blériot, the French pioneer aviator, successfully completed the first flight across the English Channel on July 25, 1909.

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Recent research uncovered an Oris pocket watch engraved with a Blériot airplane, thought to have been made in the early 1910s


The same research uncovered what appears to be Oris’s first pilot’s wristwatch, and also one of its first wristwatches. The round, brass-cased watch had a big crown, an aluminium dial and a pin-lever movement, and was essentially a pocket watch with wire loop lugs soldered to its case. This was common practice during the First World War as officers looked for practical ways of wearing watches and as aerial warfare developed.

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The first Oris pilot’s wristwatch, was made around 1917. It was a pocket watch with a big crown and wire loop lugs soldered to its case


Today, Oris is remembering that landmark wristwatch with the Big Crown 1917 Limited Edition. In design terms, the new watch is faithful to the original. It has the same onion-shaped big crown, the same early 20th century Arabic numerals, the same blued steel hands, and the same domed glass. Even the vintage Oris logo has been revived.

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Most memorably, Oris is introducing a new calibre into the watch, Calibre 732, which the company’s watchmakers have engineered so that the time can only be adjusted when the button at 2 o’clock is pushed down, in keeping with a quirk of the original.

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While the aesthetic is lifted from the early days of wristwatches, the Big Crown 1917 Limited Edition is every bit a 21st century watch, manufactured according to Oris’s exacting standards. The case is polished stainless steel and water-resistant to 5 bar, and set on a beautifully crafted brown leather cuff strap with a stainless steel pin buckle. The bubble-curved glass is made of scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the Arabic numerals and hands are finished with luminescent Super-LumiNova®.

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The Oris Big Crown 1917 Limited Edition has a number of additional special touches. The case back is embossed with the original ‘OWC’ trademark, which stood for ‘Oris Watch Company’ and was used as a ‘Poinçon de Maître’ quality stampon Oris’s 18-carat gold watches. The case back also carries the limited edition number – only 1,917 examples will be made. The final flourish is a travel pouch, which contains an additional leather strap with twin rivets, as per the original, and a stainless steel pin buckle.

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The Oris Big Crown 1917 Limited Edition is an historic watch and a charming reminder of Oris’s rich watchmaking heritage.

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It will be available in August, price CHF 2,400.

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Product Features

Model: Big Crown 1917 Limited Edition

Reference 01 732 7736 4081-Set LS

Case
Oris Big Crown, Stainless steel 40.00 mm, 1.575 inches
    Material Multi-piece stainless steel case
    Size 40.00 mm, 1.575 inches
    Interhorn Width 18 mm
    Top Glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
    Case Back Stainless steel, screwed, special engravings
    Operating Devices Stainless steel screw-in security crown
    Water Resistance 5 bar
 Movement
Automatic winding
    Number Oris 732, base SW 200-1
    Dimensions Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
Functions 
    Centre hands for hours and minutes, fine timing device
    Winding Automatic winding, bi-directionally rotating red rotor
    Power-Reserve 38 hrs
    Vibrations 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
    Jewels 26
 Dial
    Material Silver dial
    Luminous Material Numerals and hands Light Old Radium
Strap/Bracelet Leather
    Material Dark brown leather strap, stainless steel buckle

Extras
Special box, certificate, additional leather strap, limited to 1917 piece

Price  Swiss retail price CHF 2,400

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Press Release - 2017
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Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Jaeger-LeCoultre – Master Control line 25th Anniversary

















Jaeger-LeCoultreMaster Control Line 25th Anniversary



Celebrating 25 years of the Master Control line 
with three new pieces

It has been 25 years since the Master Control collection was first unveiled in 1992. An embodiment of the sophisticated watchmaking tradition carefully cultivated by Jaeger-LeCoultre, it combines the classic aesthetics and technical performance that illustrate the quality of the Manufacture’s movements.

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Now on the collection’s 25th anniversary, the Manufacture is presenting a new expression of the line’s three emblematic functions, drawing on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s rich legacy of round watches to inspire the Master Control Date, the Master Chronograph, and the Master Geographic. The date, chronograph, and geographic complication constitute functions of everyday utility that have made the Master Control line into a resounding success, and they are pleasingly integrated into this latest incarnation.

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A vintage-inspired design

The classicism that characterises the collection is augmented by the vintage charm of these pieces, driven by automatic movements and enhanced with touches of blue. This navy shade echoes across the dial like a leitmotif, in the skeletonised baton hands and the blued stainless steel central seconds, as well as in the complications and the minute circle. As an elegant accompaniment to these three new faces, a strap of alligator leather takes up the shade of blue, intensifying it to a deeper hue.

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A subtle play of light weaves across the surface of these models. The polished finish on the bezel and lugs forms a sophisticated contrast with the satin-brushed case-band, imbuing the case with additional charm. On the face of each watch, a circular satin-brushed finish in the outer section sets off the opaline finish at the heart of the dial. This makes light bounce off it at different angles, ensuring the indications are easier to read. The contrast is further heightened by black hour-markers at the centre of the watch.



Master Control Date

This watch exudes a genuine charm. Its clean, rounded lines reflect the essence of the Master Control collection, with its emblematic numerals 6, 9, and 12 retained, and the 3 making way for a date indication. This simple function remains a “must” in watchmaking.

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With its automatic movement housed in a 39 mm case, this model is an elegant and reassuring presence on the wrist, ideal for active men who want a watch that looks just as fitting during the working day as for more dressed-up occasions. To prolong the pleasure of discovery, a sapphire crystal case-back reveals the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899/1 with its 22-carat gold oscillating weight.

Master Chronograph

This chronograph watch follows the Master Control collection’s distinctive aesthetic lines, featuring a contemporary design inspired by vintage styling. Its "casual chic" look will appeal to aficionados of this emblematic complication, seeking an original model. The two push-pieces housed on the case-band make the chronograph easy to use, with its two counters indicating hours and minutes set out harmoniously on the dial.

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Their invigorating blue colour is echoed in the blued stainless steel hands and the tachometer that runs discreetly around the outer perimeter. It is useful for measuring the speed of travel from one point to another with ease. There is a sporty feel to this automatic watch, and its 40-mm diameter case adds a real sense of distinction to the wrist.

Master Geographic

The Master Geographic is the emblematic model of the Master Control collection, providing travellers with a novel way of reading the second time zone. The aperture in the lower section of the dial displays the names of 24 world cities, representing all the time zones. A crown set at 10 o’clock on the case makes adjusting the indicator of this second time zone simplicity itself.

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Patterned in a circular guilloché that catches light from a different slant, the indicator contrasts elegantly with the other finishes on the dial.

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With its signature blue colour, the design brings a fresh feel to this watch, without taking away from its classic sobriety.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Master Control Date

Ref. Q1548530

MOVEMENT
•    Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899/1
•    28,800 vibrations per hour
•    38-hour power reserve
•    219 parts
•    3.30 mm in height
FUNCTION
•    Hour, minute, central seconds
•    Date
CASE
•    Stainless steel
•    39 mm in diameter
•    Height: 8.5 mm
•    Sapphire crystal case-back
•    Water resistance: 5 bar
DIAL
•    Finish is opaline in the centre and circular satin-brushed around the perimeter
HANDS
•    Skeletonised baton hands
STRAP
•    Blue alligator leather
•    Pin buckle in stainless steel

REFERENCE
•    Q1548530

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Master Chronograph

Ref. Q1538530

MOVEMENT
•    Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 751G
•    28,800 vibrations per hour
•    65-hour power reserve
•    235 parts
•    5.72 mm in height
FUNCTION
•    Hour, minute, central seconds
•    2-counter chronograph
•    Tachometer
CASE
•    Stainless steel
•    40 mm in diameter
•    Height: 11.7 mm
•    Water resistance: 5 bar
DIAL
•    Finish is opaline in the centre and circular satin-brushed around the perimeter
•    Circular guilloché on the counters
HANDS
•    Skeletonised baton hands
STRAP
•    Blue alligator leather
•    Pin buckle in stainless steel

REFERENCE
•    Q1538530

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Master Geographic

Ref. Q1428530

MOVEMENT
•    Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 939B/1
•    28,800 vibrations per hour
•    43-hour power reserve
FUNCTION
•    Hour, minute, central seconds
•    Second time zone
•    24-city disc
•       24-hour indication
CASE
•    Stainless steel
•    39 mm in diameter
•    Height: 11.7 mm
•    Sapphire crystal case-back
•    Water resistance: 5 bar
DIAL
•    Finish is opaline in the centre and circular satin-brushed around the perimeter
•    Circular guilloché on the second time zone counter
HANDS
•    Skeletonised baton hands
STRAP
•    Blue alligator leather
•    Pin buckle in stainless steel

REFERENCE
•    Q1428530


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Saturday, April 29, 2017

HYSEK – COLOSSAL Grande Complication Tourbillon Edition

















HYSEKCOLOSSAL Grande Complication Rose Gold Tourbillon Limited Edition

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Hysek is making its mark on the watchmaking scene – in a decidedly big way.Colossalis a 100% in-house Grande Complication piece, of which only eight are being made – a perpetual calendar in which every display uses a roller. The unprecedented piece boasts over 1,000 components, took three years to develop, and is protected by several patent applications.

Colossal is a major Grande Complication piece boasting unprecedented technology – the most ambitious undertaken by the manufacture in over ten years. Colossal is a watchmaking Everest, celebrating our Maison’s twentieth anniversary in style – as well as commemorating the tenth anniversary of one of our original creations, the Colosso,” explains Hysek CEO Akram Aljord.

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Unveiled at Baselworld, the Colossal embodies a disruptive watchmaking vision, bringing together three concepts much beloved of Hysek: Jumping Hours, a Jumping Perpetual Calendar, and a three-dimensional Moon Phase. Together, they bring to life one of the most complex vertical linear displays ever constructed – as well as providing what is undoubtedly one of the most readable Perpetual Calendars around.

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The 23:59 challenge

Linear displays – especially ones involving a jumping mechanism – are little short of impossible, technically speaking. The main difficulty with displaying hours and minutes has been that of transposing a flat display to the roller-based system. Simply put, this involves transitioning from a circular display using flat gears to a linear display using vertical gears.




































One that barrier had been overcome, Hysek then set out to resolve one of the most insidious challenges with roller displays: the shift from 23:59 to 00:00.

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Logically speaking, the hour unit roller (the “3” in 23:59) should continue on its course to display a 4; but that would end up displaying the non-existent time of 24:00, inevitably followed by 25:00, and so on.




























To prevent that, Hysek has developed an exclusive system that is a world first. A few minutes before midnight, the roller discreetly moves backwards from “3” to “9”, so that it can then jump, appropriately enough, to “0” – such that midnight is properly displayed. As the midnight hour approaches, a veritable mechanical ballet worthy of an automaton takes the stage. Arms, levers, and gears move into position so that the two hour discs roll into place simultaneously at midnight, in complete unison.
































The spectacular jump is the final outcome of a mechanical process that begins much earlier, ensuring that the show at midnight is perfectly coordinated – and goes off without a hitch. A patent has been filed for the reverse-and-forward roller system.

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A Moon Phase unlike any other in watchmaking

Occupying as it does a central place in the Colossal’s WH80 caliber, the Moon Phase could hardly content itself with being traditional when all the surrounding complications were so innovative, and indeed developed specifically for this piece.

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In this display, the Moon itself is fixed, and encompassed by a cupola in constant rotation. The result is a display comprising two parts: the Moon in the middle and a dome above it. As this dome revolves, it gradually reveals the different phases of the moon. The cupola completes a complete 360° rotation in 29.5 days, with all the regularity of the actual lunar cycle.

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This design posed a twofold problem. The first aspect involved actually inventing a Moon Phase of this type in the first place; no such complication had ever been devised. The other aspect of the problem was that the complication does not simply involve a rotating disc but an entire dome. As a result, a suitable ceramic ball bearing system had to be developed.

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Beyond the Perpetual Calendar: still more complications

Colossal also features three other complications: a dual time zone, a power reserve, and a seasonal day-night indicator. Hysek has clad the essential hours, minutes, and calendar complications in black, whilst the other complications are rhodium-plated.

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The GMT display takes the form of a disc placed atop the seasonal roller, powered by the vertical shaft on which the roller rotates. This solution saves a considerable amount of space, and is right in keeping with the Colossal’s style codes – without adding any particular mechanical complexity. The GMT complication is exactly the same diameter as the roller, as though the two worked in tandem, whereas in fact they are technically separate.

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The power reserve and seasonal day-night indicator are displayed on the side of the watch, through two sapphire crystal windows. This side display is a legacy feature of the Colosso that Hysek is proudly using once again, giving it a new, creative, and more technical lease of life. The display in question also enhances the Colossal’s three-dimensional aspect.

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Tourbillon, automatic winding mechanism, and twin barrels

The Colossal is regulated by a flying tourbillon, not least for its aesthetic qualities. The tourbillon cage is assembled on ceramic ball bearings.

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For optimum comfort, Hysek has chosen an automatic winding mechanism, featuring a micro-rotor made of platinum. This material is both rare and precious – as well as offering an excellent moment of inertia for its size. In addition, two barrels, arranged side by side, work in parallel, providing a 42-hour power reserve. Winding and unwinding at the same time, they deliver sufficient power to trigger all the functions – especially important when various rollers have to jump forward at the same time.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

MOVEMENT

Hysek HW80 caliber
Patent: CH00375/16
Automatic mechanical movement
• Roller retrograde jumping hours
• Sweeping minutes
• Perpetual Calendar with day, date, and month displayed on 4 rollers
  • Leap year on a disc at 3 o’clock
  • “Celestial sphere” Moon Phase display
  • Hand-painted Moon and “celestial sphere”
  • GMT on a disc at 9 o’clock
  • Power reserve indicator roller at 3 o’clock
  • Seasonal Day/Night indicator roller at 9 o’clock
• Hand-painted numerals on rollers
• Rear-mounted flying tourbillon
• Frequency: 28,800 vph
Hysek Titanium balance wheel
• Balance spring: PE4000 alloy
• Twin barrels
• Platinum micro-rotor, offset and decorated by hot-wire cutting
• Autonomy: 45 + 3 hours
1080 components
186 jewels
61 bridges
7 ceramic ball bearings

CASE

18K Rose Gold
Size: L 57 mm x H 18 mm x W 44 mm
• Arch-shaped sapphire glass with anti-reflection treatment
• Sapphire crystal sides and back with anti-reflection treatment
• Rotating lugs
• Single-pusher crown
• Water resistance: 30 metres

Limited edition: 8 pieces


§  Price under request
Product Year: available from autumn 2017 

 
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MANUFACTURE HYSEK SA   
Chemin de la Vignette 1  
CH-1167 Lussy-sur-Morges  
Phone +41 21 804 90 90
Fax +41 21 803 19 29
marketing@hysek.com
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Hysek.com

Friday, April 28, 2017

RICHARD MILLE – RM 50-03 Tourbillon McLaren F1 Edition


ICHARD MILLE RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1 Limited Edition

THE WORLD’S LIGHTEST SPLIT-SECONDS TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH:
RM 50-03 McLAREN F1

Relentless technical innovation, the quest for perfection, and a perpetual hunger for progress are the common factors that link McLaren-Honda and Richard Mille.


Produced in collaboration with the famed Formula 1 constructor, the new Richard Mille calibre is a technical masterpiece offering off-the-chart mechanical performance.

The RM 50-03 tourbillon split seconds chronograph ultralight McLaren F1 weighs less than 40 grams – including the new strap – which makes it the lightest mechanical chronograph ever made.
This landmark has been achieved through the use of cutting-edge technical materials. The design not only incorporates Titanium and Carbon TPT™, but also introduces an entirely new material into the world of watchmaking: Graph TPT™, more commonly known as graphene.


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These new applications for the material emerged through research at the National Graphene Institute, established in 2015 at The University of Manchester. It’s where graphene was first isolated by Professor Andre Geim of the School of Physics and Astronomy, back in 2004. Six years later, the discovery earned its author the prestigious 2010 Nobel Prize in physics, alongside his colleague, Professor Konstantin Novoselov.

Thanks to the collaborative work between The University of Manchester, McLaren Applied Technologies and North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT®), Richard Mille has succeeded in producing a watch case machined in an improved form of Carbon TPT™.

The carbon’s physical properties were significantly enhanced by the introduction of graphene, a revolutionary nano-material which is six times lighter than steel, and 200 times stronger. McLaren Technology Group and McLaren-Honda, which are currently working on integrating graphene into their Grand Prix cars, made it possible for us to consider this material as a means to significantly low the density of our carbon composite while increasing its resistance.

Convinced of the incredible advantages conferred by graphene, our engineers worked with those at North Thin Ply Technology to envision practical applications of the new material, and studied how to incorporate it into Carbon TPT™.

Noted for the beautiful, undulating striations of its surface, Carbon TPT™ is comprised of parallel filaments – 600 layers, in fact, whose maximum thickness is 30 microns. These are impregnated with a super-charged resin containing graphene, and are then compiled by a CNC machine that shifts the orientation of the fibres by 45° between layers.

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The composite is then solidified by heating it to 120°C, at 6 Bar of pressure. Numerous control and validation tests conducted by McLaren Applied Technologies have made it possible to develop the solutions that resulted in the production of Graph TPT™, a material employed exclusively by Richard Mille in the domain of watchmaking.

At the Richard Mille manufacturing facility, our team specialising in the machining of movement components and cases turned their attention to manipulating Graph TPT™ — spending many long hours creating and programming cutting tools suitable for achieving precision to a micron.

The resulting three-part case cedes ground nowhere, being both highly resistant and extremely light, while preserving perfect ergonomics and a unique, striking appearance.

For its part, the 7-gram movement completely deserves the qualifier ‘ultralight’. The secret to its feather weight lies in the use of grade 5 Titanium and Carbon TPT™ for the baseplate and bridges, and in the extreme skeletonisation of components. Likewise, the density, stiffness and low thermal conductivity of Titanium make it a material of choice in McLaren Racing’s Formula 1 engineering build programme, where it’s not only used to lighten and reinforce chassis and aerodynamic elements, but also to produce gearboxes, connecting rods and valve systems.

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Watchmaking expertise can be found throughout this movement with drawn, polished, satin-finished and soft-polished surfaces all created by hand. For example, each grade 5 titanium dial requires
3 hours of anglage and polishing in our workshop to highlight its edge. Other parts, such as the barrel-drum, the minute-wheel and the small and large medium-wheel are circular grained both above and below then hand-beveled and rhodium plated before the teeth are cut

A transverse cage, crafted of Carbon TPT™ and inspired by the wishbone suspension structure of a McLaren-Honda Formula 1 car, is affixed to the caseband, and supports the entire RM50-03 calibre. By eliminating the casing ring, this unusual architecture enables a perfect fit between the movement and case. Taken together, these technical solutions provide the complex calibre with tremendous resistance properties. Indeed, the casing has withstood shock loadings of 5,000g in our own workshops – and survived unscathed.

The RM 50-03 McLaren F1 is chronographic perfection brought to life: it combines a tourbillon escapement with a split-seconds function. In order to perform without fail, the combination of these two complications within a single mechanism demands perfect transfers of energy. The ensuing need to reduce friction led to research on how to improve the profiling of the teeth on the barrel and gear train. The result is superbly balanced torque and optimised yield.

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The movement’s performance and the quality of the energy delivered can be easily read via coloured indicators denoting the 70-hour energy reserve and torque sensor. The hollow pushers of the chronograph are representative of the air intake ducts on the McLaren-Honda car, while the shape of the crown takes its cue from the racing competition wheel rims used by the British team.

Design of a new split-seconds mechanism and extensive research on the work of the split-seconds clamps have permitted a 50% reduction in the chronograph’s energy consumption, while at the same time reducing arbor friction. The 6-column wheel that controls the various rockers for the split-seconds function was designed to guarantee flawlessly simultaneous movement, clean function lock, and highly stable settings.

The extraordinary properties of graphene encouraged us to pursue additional developments in conjunction with our strap supplier, BIWI S.A., and to incorporate this nano-material into the rubber strap of the RM 50-03 to increase its elasticity and resistance to wear. These various applications of graphene represent significant technical advances that are of capital importance for both Richard Mille and McLaren-Honda.

The RM 50-03 McLaren F1 will be produced in a numbered limited edition of 75 pieces and will be available only at Richard Mille boutiques. Each watch will be accompanied by a 1:5 scale model of the McLaren-Honda racing car driven in 2017 by Double-World Champion Fernando Alonso and Stoffel Vandoorne.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

RM 50-03 TOURBILLON SPLIT SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH ULTRALIGHT McLAREN F1

Limited edition of 75 pieces made from Graph TPT™.

MAIN FEATURES
CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre RM50-03
Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes,
split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute totaliser, and power-reserve, torque and function indicators.
Dimensions : 44.50 mm x 49.65 mm x 16.10 mm.
POWER RESERVE
Around 70 hours (±10%), displayed on a numeric scale at 11 o'clock.

ULTRALIGHT TOURBILLON CALIBRE IN TITANIUM AND CARBON TPT™

The RM50-03 calibre weighs just 7 grams. This record-breaking weight was obtained by using high-tech materials and by skeletonising its components as far as possible.

The baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium are highly resistant to corrosion and remarkably rigid, enabling the gear train to function effortlessly. This alloy (90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium) enhances the mechanical properties of the latter.

Some of the bridges of the split-seconds chronograph are made from Carbon TPT™, as is the transverse carriage that supports the entire calibre together with the barrel and tourbillon bridges. Attached to the caseband, this carriage circumvents the need for a casing ring, allowing the movement to be ideally integrated into the case.


All of these technical solutions give this complex calibre, with its extreme weight to resistance ratio, an impressive resistance capacity, tested in our workshops to shocks of 5,000 g.

NEW SPLIT-SECONDS SYSTEM

The RM50-03 calibre introduces a latest-generation split-seconds mechanism developed by the Richard Mille engineers. The new column wheel operates the different levers of the split-seconds function and optimises the chronograph's operation. While previous Richard Mille chronographs have traditionally featured a wheel with 8 columns, the one equipping the RM 50-03 now only has 6 columns to ensure optimised simultaneous movement, maximal function locking, and greater adjustment durability. In-depth studies carried out on the function of clamps also led to a new clamp design. The helical spring has also been replaced by a blade on the split seconds wheel of the RM 50-03, a technical decision that reduces the variation in torque when the split-seconds function is activated.

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All of these developments have considerably improved the timekeeping performance of this tourbillon calibre and have halved the chronograph's energy consumption while reducing friction on the arbors.

Use: the pusher at 8 o'clock starts or stops the seconds hand of the chronograph. The pusher at 4 o'clock stops the split seconds hand and allows an intermediary time to be read off while the chronograph is engaged. When this pusher is pressed again, the split-seconds hand catches up with the chronograph hand and simultaneously continues its course. The pusher at 10 o'clock resets the hands.

TORQUE INDICATOR

This function indicates the tension of the mainspring and makes it possible to optimise the winding of the watch. Under 53 dNmm, the spring is too slack. However, over 65 dNmm, the excessive tension could affect the operation of the mechanism, or even damage it. (These indications appear on the numeric scale to the right of the barrel).

FUNCTION INDICATOR

When the crown is pulled out, the hand indicates winding, hand setting or the neutral position, similar to the gearbox on a car. A hand at 4 o'clock displays the selected mode: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Hand Setting).

FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA

This type of balance ensures greater reliability in the event of impact and during the assembly and disassembly of the movement. The watch's long-term precision is therefore improved. The regulator index has been removed and more precise and repeatable inertia adjustment can now be made using four adjustable weights.

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FAST ROTATING BARREL 
(6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)

This type of barrel has the following advantages:
  • The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby improving performance.
  • Excellent delta of the mainspring curve with a power reserve that ideally balances performance and regularity.
BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL

This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20%), especially at the start of winding.
It also helps to distribute the internal tension of the mainspring correctly.

TEETH OF BARREL AND THIRD WHEEL PINION 
WITH CENTRAL INVOLUTE PROFILE

The central involute profile of these teeth exerts pressure at an optimal angle of 20°, which enhances the efficiency of the gear train and compensates for any potential variations in penetration. This results in excellent torque transmission and a noticeably improved performance.


MODULAR HAND SETTING MECHANISM ON CASEBACK

This presents the following benefits in terms of longevity and maintenance:
  • As this module is assembled outside of the movement, it can be replaced without touching the baseplate during a procedure or maintenance operation.
  • The assembly and disassembly of this module from the back does not require the removal of the hands nor the dial.

SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES

The design of these screws permits better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

OTHER FEATURES
-    Dimensions of the movement: 31.10 mm x 32.15 mm
-    Thickness: 9.92 mm
-    Diameter of the tourbillon: 12.40 mm
-    Diameter of the balance: 10 mm
-    Number of jewels: 43
-    Balance wheel: Glucydur, 2 arms and 4 setting screws
-    Inertia moment: 10 mg.cm2, lift angle 53°
-    Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
-    Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox®
-    Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
-    Barrel shaft in nickel-free Chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following properties: stainless – antimagnetic – suitable for tempering

CASE IN GRAPH TPT

The bezel and case back feature Graph TPT™, an Carbon TPT™ whose physical properties have been considerably improved by the injection of graphene, a revolutionary nanomaterial that is six times lighter than steel but 200 times more resistant.

Thanks to the collaborative work between The University of Manchester, McLaren Applied Technologies and North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT®), Richard Mille has succeeded in producing a watch case machined in an improved form of Carbon TPT™. Numerous control and validation tests conducted by McLaren Applied Technologies have made it possible to develop the solutions that resulted in the production of Graph TPT™, a material employed exclusively by Richard Mille in the domain of watchmaking.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

With its distinctive, wavy graphic structure, Carbon TPT™ is made up of 600 layers of parallel filaments obtained by separating out carbon fibres. These layers, each a maximum of 30 microns thick, are impregnated with a graphene-containing resin. They are then assembled using a specific machine, which stacks the layers by varying the orientation of the fibres by 45° between two layers. The composite is then hardened in a kiln heated to 120°C with a pressure of 6 bars.

At the Richard Mille manufacturing facility dedicated to machining movement parts and cases – were tasked with machining the Graph TPT™, following many hours spent developing programmes and producing adapted cutting tools to give a machining precision accurate to the nearest micron.
The case of the RM 50-03 is water-resistant to 50 metres thanks to two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.

SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE CASE
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
TORQUE LIMITING CROWN
This additional security system prevents accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or put extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
UPPER AND LOWER FLANGES
In Carbon TPT™ filled with an approved luminescent coating.
DIAL
In grade 5 titanium with black galvanic treatment.
BEZEL AND CASE BACK
Bezel side: sapphire crystal (1,800 Vickers) with anti-reflective treatment (on both sides)
Thickness: 1.10 mm
Case back side: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment (on both sides)
Thickness: 1.00 mm
RUBBER STRAP INJECTED WITH GRAPHENE
Thanks to Richard Mille's partnership with BIWI SA, a Swiss company specialised in very-high-precision moulding of vulcanised elastomers, graphene was injected into the rubber strap of the RM 50-03 in order to improve its rubber-like behaviour and thus its resistance to wear.

FINISHES
MOVEMENT
-    Hand-polished bevelling
-    Hand-polished locking-sections
-    Sapphire-microblasted milled sections
-    Lapped and polished contact points
-    Burnished pivots
STEEL PARTS
-    Wire-drawn and microblasted surfaces
-    Hand-polished bevelling
WHEELS
-    Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
-    Circular-decorated front surfaces
-    Rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
-    Minimal corrections made to the wheels to preserve their geometry and overall performance

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RICHARD MILLE
Communications Director
Richard Mille Europe, Middle East & Africa Ltd.
Mobile 44 (0) 77 47 640013
Email  beatrice.giusti@richardmille-emea.com
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