Baume & Mercier – CLIFTON Retrograde Date Automatic

Baume & Mercier – CLIFTON Retrograde Date Automatic NEW

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An understated complication

The Clifton Retrograde Date watch has an inspired graphic style, once again illustrating Baume & Mercier’s expertise in the domain of small complications. The timepiece presented this year has a date calendar featuring a display of the power reserve and retrograde date, designed to provide originality and satisfy its owner’s taste for beautiful mechanisms, elegance and a certain idea of balance. Baume & Mercier has always forged the image of a brand closely linked to life’s major events through its frequent involvement with the major celebrations in human existence. The Clifton Retrograde Date is undeniably one of those references that will defy time itself. With each detail of its construction, this watch proves how the spirit that determined its construction is perfectly in phase with the brand whose credo, since its foundation in 1830, is «accept only perfec-tion; only manufacture watches of the highest quality.»

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Alexandre Peraldi, Director of the Baume & Mercier in-house Design Studio, readily admits that «there is nothing more com-plicated than making a simple watch.» This 43 mm steel watch, housing a mechanical self-winding caliber, required a great deal of thought. The presence of many different functions on the dial meant achieving visual equilibrium so as to keep it perfectly le-gible. Baume & Mercier’s talent indeed lies precisely in finding that ideal balance.

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Just one look at the Clifton Retrograde Date and its dial is enough to understand how aesthetic qualities and attention to detail satisfy the wearer’s interest and fascination for fine watch-making. This timepiece, with its case borrowed from a 1950s Baume & Mercier watch, now an integral part of the museum’s collection, houses a beautifully made mechanical self-winding caliber visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back. The sun satin-finished dial displays hours, minutes and seconds through the presence of a central seconds hand. But the caliber, fitted with a function plate, also displays the day in a small coun-ter at 9 o’clock, the retrograde date at 3 o’clock and the power reserve at 6 o’clock. The winding level of the barrel spring gua-rantees that the watch will work for forty or so hours.

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The art of balance

A cornerstone of the new 2014 products, the Clifton Retrograde Date highlights Baume & Mercier’s desire to offer lovers of fine watches a reference timepiece that stands out visually while offe-ring a useful and accessible complication. The Clifton Retrograde Date is guaranteed to be water-resistant to 50 meters and is avai-lable in a brown alligator strap, closed by a triple folding buckle with security push-pieces.

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Housed in a 43 mm diameter steel case, the Clifton Retrograde Date features generous dimensions, exceptional finishing and aesthetically appealing display appearing against a silver-colored sun satin-finished background. Inspired by a watch that expe-rienced its heyday in the 1950s, this watch, traditionally driven by a mechanical self-winding caliber combined with an additional retrograde date function, boldly displays information that could be described as retro-futuristic. It thus combines features taken from the past without depriving itself of contemporary options that will capture the attention of watch lovers wanting to live in step with their century. The work accomplished for this watch, to be worn on a brown alligator strap closed by a triple folding buckle with secu-rity push-pieces, creates a watch with an inimitable style that many watch lovers, looking for an ideal timepiece, will not fail to notice.

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 Technical specifications

CLIFTON Retrograde Date Automatic M0A10149

Collection:        Clifton
Movement:   
Mechanical self-winding (Soprod 9094)
Circular-grained plate and bridges
Oscillating weight personalized with snailed decor, « Côtes de Genève » décor and Phi symbol
Jewels: 30
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
Functions:     
Retrograde date 
Power reserve
Day
Case:       
Round
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 12.05 mm
Polished & satin-finished stainless steel
Antiglare scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back secured with 4 screws
Dial:       
Sun satin-finished and snailed silver-colored
Gilt Arabic numerals and indexes
Gilt and blued steel hands       
Strap:            Brown alligator
Buckle:        Adjustable triple folding buckle with security push-pieces
Water-resistance:    5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Reference:        M0A10149   

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Corum – Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon

CORUM – Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon 2014

The prestigious Admiral’s Cup collection now welcomes an eminently complicated new movement:  hand-wound  wound Caliber  CO  1008, an exclusive  mechanism  features a  double  tourbillon combined  with  a retrograde  date  and  an  ingenious  time adjustment system.

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Corum has equipped the new Caliber CO 1008 with two parallel-mounted tourbillons, dedicated to ensuring remarkable reliability backed by a generous 72-hour power reserve.  This mechanism is also fitted with a retrograde date and a particularly innovative time adjustment device.  Simply  by  pressing  the  crown  pushbutton,  the  wearer  can  bring  the minutes hand instantly to the 12th index so as to set the exact time - and this can be done up to five minutes before or after a full hour.

Contemporary and sophisticated

 

Embodying  an  authentic  horological  challenge,  Caliber  CO  1008  finds  the  perfect  stagesetting in the iconic twelve-sided case of the Admiral’s Cup – born in 1960 and redesigned in  2013,  while  remaining  staunchly  true  to  the  signature  codes  that  have  earned  it legendary status. Based on a contemporary architecture featuring alternating polished and satin-brushed  finishes,  its  layered  construction  comprises  black  PVD-coated  titanium inserts appearing in turn between the case back and middle and then between the bezel and the case middle – all contributing to a masterfully structured aesthetic approach.

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Available in 18K red gold or grade 5 titanium, the case of the Admiral’s Cup AC-One Double Tourbillon  stylishly  displays  a  generous  45  mm  diameter  enhanced  by  an  immediately recognizable  design.  Clearly cut out for adventure, it is endowed with impressive water resistance to a depth of 300 meters.

The dial swept over by luminescent hands and hour-markers is adorned with an exclusive design specially developed for Corum:  the split pomegranate motif.  Forming  small diagonally-incised squares, this composition creates an elegant depth effect accentuated by  the  inner  bezel  ring  stamped  with  the  emblematic nautical  pennants  of  the  Admiral’s  Cup collection.

While the two tourbillons spin on the lower part of the dial, a dynamic red arrow points to the retrograde  date  segment  appearing  on  the  upper  part  like  an  extension  of  the  two carriages. The  dazzling  style  of  the  Admiral’s  Cup  AC-One  45  Double  Tourbillon  continues  on  the bridge  side,  where  the  transparent  back  reveals  the beauty  of  the  mechanical  caliber oscillating  at  a  frequency  of  21,600  vibrations  per hour  (3  Hz).  The  movement’s  modern execution  features  a  horizontal  satin-brushed  finish  and  anthracite  grey  engravings.

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Mounted  on  a  mainplate  made  of  cupro-beryllium,  a  particularly  wear-resistant  copper based alloy, it testifies to a determination to endow exceptional horological complications with  remarkable  long-term  reliability.  The Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon is thus set to continue, for many years to come, beating to the pulse of watchmaking mingling outstanding performance and powerful emotions.

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 Technical specifications

Movement
Movement number: CO 1008
Winding system: Manual
Functions: 
Hour & Minute, Date, Double tourbillon, Actual hour corrector
Power reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz, 21'600 vph
Dimension: 14 1/4'''
Model: A1008/02337 - 1008.101.04/0F01 AN10
Dial
Colours: Charcoal grey
Material: Brass
Hourly nautical pennants transferred on the flange
Inscribed "Admiral's Cup" transferred on the dial
Applied rhodium-coated hour indexes
CORUM logo applied on the dial
Minute-circle indexes transferred on the dial
"Grenadier fendu" finishing
Case
Dimension: 45 mm
Thickness: 14.40 mm
Case material: Titanium grade 5
Bezel material: Titanium grade 5
Crown protector material: Titanium grade 5 with black PVD treatment
Crown material: Titanium grade 5; Engraved CORUM key
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflectivetreatment
Back type: Screwed in open back cover intitanium grade 5 with glare proof sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 300 meters / 30 ATM
Hands
Dauphine-variant; Rhodium coated; Faceted; Skeleton; White super luminova
Date: Baton with arrowhead tip; Red coloured
Bracelet
Material: Crocodile leather
Colours: Black
Interhorn/Buckle: 23/20 mm
Buckle type: Triple folding clasp
Buckle material: Titanium grade 5
Engraved CORUM logo
Opening and fastening system using 2 pushers


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Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition

Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition NEW

Because of its complexity and mechanical refinement, the perpetual calendar, which shows the date, day of the week, month, and moon phase without requiring correction, remains a technical challenge that only a handful of watchmakers have mastered. The mechanism knows the differing lengths of months and the timing of the next leap year, thereby successfully countering the quirks of the Gregorian calendar.

In the year 46 BC, the astronomer Sosigenes of Alexandria developed the basic principles for today’s calendar. He divided the year into twelve months, with seven months of 31 days, four months of 30 days, one month of 28 or 29 days, resulting in 365.25 days per year, and with one additional day every four years as a correction. Thanks to the great Roman Emperor Julius Caesar, use of this system became widespread throughout the entire world. However, this “Julian” calendar contained an error of 0.0078 days per year, a discrepancy which was corrected by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582. In the system which bears his name, a leap year is left out every 100 years except in round centuries which have a number of years divisible by 400. This Gregorian calendar is still used today, forming the foundation for the way we measure time.

Masterwork of craftsmanship

Anyone who wears a mechanical watch with a date display will be familiar with the problems caused by months of differing lengths, particularly in leap years. Because simple, standard calendar mechanisms always switch from the 30th to the 31st, the date has to be moved forward manually to the first after months with fewer days. A perpetual calendar mechanism, however, is able to correctly handle these transitions independently, even factoring in leap years. The complexity of this mechanism demands the ultimate in watchmaking craftsmanship, and is appropriately referred to as the “grand complication”. Manual correction will not be necessary until the year 2100, when – as in all years divisible by 100, but not by 400 – one leap year will be skipped.

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For all lovers of this traditional masterpiece of the watchmaker’s art, Carl F. Bucherer now presents a limited edition of the Manero ChronoPerpetual featuring a unique combination of chronograph and perpetual calendar. The Manero ChronoPerpetual is a true wonder of the art of watchmaking, with a perpetual calendar date display at 12 o’clock, day of the week at 6 o’clock, month and leap year at 9 o’clock, and moon phase at 3 o’clock – all of which do not require correction. The functional module specially developed for Carl F. Bucherer also features a precision chronograph with the popular flyback function. A tachymeter scale on the bezel completes the range of practical functionalities for which Carl F. Bucherer is famous. A movement from Vaucher Manufacture, which features a contemporary design in the distinctive style of the Lucerne watch brand, forms an exclusive basis.

Visual clarity, perfection of form

Despite this multiplicity of functions and displays, Carl F. Bucherer has ensured optimum readability of the dial on the Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition. The designers met this challenge by giving it generous dimensions, different levels, and various surface finishes. The chronograph counters for the hours (6 o’clock), minutes (9 o’clock), and small running seconds hand (12 o’clock) are distinctively and attractively integrated into the striking recessed calendar displays, while fine lines provide the necessary readability and the slender stopwatch hand in the center marks counted seconds.

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The traditional complication of the perpetual calendar has been reinterpreted in contemporary fashion through wedge-shaped hour index marks, the expressive numbering so characteristic of Carl F. Bucherer, and tapering Super-LumiNova-coated hour and minute hands. The chronograph hands are either a discreet black or rose gold in color. The center of the classic silver-colored or black dial is matte, while the chronograph counters and minute division ring are brushed, creating an attractive play of light. The moon phase indicator is modern and functional in design, featuring an anthracite-colored background and a silver-colored moon disk.

This timelessly functional look is expertly continued in the case crafted of fine rose gold. The bezel is concave in shape, the sapphire crystal is domed, and the crown and polished chronograph push-pieces of 18-carat rose gold are elegantly simple. The case back with integrated sapphire crystal gives a clear view of the mechanical jewel featuring a 22-carat rose gold oscillating weight.

Another reason for the extreme exclusivity of the Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition is the fact that only 100 will be made worldwide. With this latest piece in the Manero collection, Carl F. Bucherer has succeeded in creating a watch for connoisseurs who delight in masterworks of traditional watchmaking that unite maximum functionality with a timelessly classic, restrained look.

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Manero ChronoPerpetual

Reference No. 00.10907.03.13.01

Movement:

• power reserve 50 h
• 49 jewels
• depth 7.6 mm
• diameter 30 mm
• Caliber CFB 1904
• automatic 

Functions:

• hour
• minute
• small seconds
• flyback
• leap year
• chronograph: hours, minutes and seconds counters
• perpetual calender with month, date, day of the week
• moon phase
• tachymeter

Dial:

                   silver-colored

Case:

• depth 14.3 mm
• diameter 42.5 mm
• water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm)
• case back with sapphire crystal
• sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
• 18 K rose gold

Strap:

• hand-stitched Louisiana alligator skin brown leather
• pin buckle 18 K rose gold

Limitation edition:

100 pieces

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Tel. +41 41 369 70 70
Fax +41 41 369 70 72
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JEANRICHARD – Aquascope JAPAN

JEANRICHARD – AQUASCOPE JAPAN NEW

JEANRICHARD launches new Aquascope timepiece
To celebrate 150 years of Swiss-Japanese diplomatic relations

Tokyo, JAPAN (February 6, 2014) – The Swiss watchmaker JEANRICHARD launched today the latest addition to its Aquascope collection. This new timepiece was conceived to celebrate the 150 years of Swiss-Japanese relations in 2014. Its special dial design is derived from a well-known Japanese woodblock print by renowned artist Katsushika Hokusai (1760 – 1849). “The Great Wave off Kanagawa” is amongst his best known works from “The Thirty-Six Vews of Mount Fuji”.

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“We are proud to unveil this special model as a homage to this anniversary between Switzerland and Japan”, said Bruno Grande, CEO of JEANRICHARD. “As Daniel Jeanrichard is the first Swiss watchmaker to have ever built a watch movement back in 1681, we appreciate the pioneering spirit of the delegation that came to Japan 150 years ago. It is easily imagined that the delegation was strongly driven by their passion for success and pursuit to achieve something extraordinary. And what better way to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the two countries than to create unique timepieces by a Swiss watchmaker that pays respect to one of Japan’s greatest artists ever – Katsushika Hokusai”.

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Katsuhika Hokusai (1760 – 1849) is probably the best ukiyo-e artist in Japanese history. Hokusai produced a tremendous amount of outstanding prints and paintings which have made him famous over the years.

AQUASCOPE
"From the age of five I have had a mania for sketching the forms of things. From about the age of fifty I produced a number of designs, yet of all I drew prior to the age of seventy there is truly nothing of great note. At the age of seventy-two I finally apprehended something of the true quality of birds, animals, insects, fish and of the vital nature of grasses and trees. Therefore, at eighty I shall have made some progress, at ninety I shall have penetrated even further the deeper meaning of things, at one hundred I shall have become truly marvellous, and at one hundred and ten, each dot, each line shall surely possess a life of its own. I only beg that gentlemen of sufficiently long life take care to note the truth of my words." -(Hokusai)-

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Hokusai was a man who pursued his art all his life. Lived his life to the fullest, savouring the best of each moment. He is a man who enjoyed everyday adventurers, authenticity and who made no compromises, be that on quality or on design. Hokusai had an independent spirit, scorned conventions and played by his own rules, travelling off the beaten paths. – Qualities of a true JEANRICHARD man - perfectly matching JEANRICHARD’s Philosophy of Life brand concept.

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ABOUT 150 years of Swiss-Japanese relations

It was 150 years ago on February 6, 1864, when a Friendship and Trade Treaty was signed between Switzerland and Japan. It was in the final years of the Edo period (1602-1868) when Japan opened its boarders to foreign trade. Aimé Humbert-Droz, a native of Neuchâtel, was mandated in April 1861 by the Swiss Federal Council to conduct an official delegation to Japan with the intention to seize this opportunity to open new markets for the Swiss watch industry and the textile manufacturers in Eastern Switzerland. A proponent of liberalism, Humbert served as president of the Watchmakers Association and was a member of the Swiss Council of States. He ultimately played an instrumental role in concluding the Treaty of Friendship and Commerce between Switzerland and Japan. Humbert landed in Yokohama harbor on April 27, 1863, on the Dutch warship Medusa. From his arrival onward, he tirelessly pursued negotiations with the Japanese authorities. Finally, on February 6, 1864, representatives from the Tokugawa shogunate and Humbert's delegation signed the Treaty of Friendship and Commerce - the eighth such treaty signed by Japan with a foreign country. As a consequence, Swiss trading houses in Yokohama were among the leading exporters of Japanese silk in the 19th century and in return, Switzerland exported fabrics and watches in significant quantities. The trade of Swiss watches to Japan flourished ever since.

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About JEANRICHARD

JEANRICHARD watches have been conceived for all those who enjoy challenges, revel in the unknown, and would like to live their lives to the fullest, savouring the best of each moment. These are the everyday adventurers, who enjoy authenticity and will make no compromises, be that on quality or on design. They are independent spirits who scorn conventions and play by their own rules, travelling off the beaten paths. The art of life JEANRICHARD timepieces come in four different collections, each paying tribute to the elements of our universe: Terrascope, Aquascope, Aeroscope and 1681. Earth, water, air, plus the fire of passion that has inspired our brand for over three centuries and has excited sophisticated globetrotters every day anew.
The different collections are to be found on: www.jeanrichard.com.

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ABOUT Katsuhika Hokusai (1760-1849)

Katsushika Hokusai was a Japanese artist, ukiyo-e painter and printmaker of the Edo period. He was influenced by such painters as Sesshu, and other styles of Chinese painting Born in Edo (now Tokyo), Hokusai is best known as author of the woodblock print series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji, which includes the internationally recognized print, The Great Wave off Kanagawa, created during the 1820s.

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Technical specifications
Ref: 60400-11E202-FK6A

Polished and vertically satin-finished stainless steel case
Circular satin-finished stainless steel bezel
Unidirectional rotating bezel
44.00 mm
Height: 13.05 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Case-back, screwed-down, engraved
Screwed-down crown
Water-resistant to 300 m
Movement JR60, self-winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 26
Power reserve: minimum 38 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
White, grey, blue or black “Hokusai” style engraved dial
Applied rhodium-coated indexes with luminescent material
Rhodium-coated hands with luminescent material
Blue or black rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet
Stainless steel folding or butterfly buckle

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RICHARD LANGE – PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna”

A. Lange & Söhne - RICHARD LANGE - Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna” NEW

Regulator with orbital moon-phase display and 14-day movement

The RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna” is a horological masterpiece that combines A. Lange & Söhne’s benchmark precision, inventiveness, and design com­pe­tence. Featuring an orbital moon-phase display, a perpetual calendar with the Lange outsize date, a power-reserve of 14 days, and a constant-force escape­ment, this extraordinary time-keeping instrument represents the pinnacle of Saxon watchmaking artistry.  

The RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna” is equally impressive on both sides. On the dial side of the 45.5-millimetre pink- or white-gold case, the watch stands out with the regulator layout of scientific precision watches. The movement side presents an innovative and useful orbital moon-phase display that depicts the constellation of the earth, moon, and sun.

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Three circles for time 

The large minute circle is at the top of the dial of the RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna”. The smaller dials for the hours and seconds are beneath it, shifted toward the right and left. As was already the case with the RICHARD LANGE TOURBILLON  “Pour le Mérite” presented in 2011, this dial design was inspired by a great historic role model: Johann Heinrich Seyffert’s 1807 regulator from the world-famous timepiece collection of the Mathematics and Physics Salon.

With his ingenious designs, Seyffert helped transform Dresden into a hub of precision horology in the early 19^th century. A great advantage in precision pocket watches, the regulator format was appreciated not only by time-keeping services and observatories, but also by watchmaking manufactories where it was used for synchronising new timepieces. This is because it provided an accurate display of the minutes and seconds.

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Four windows for eternity 

Beneath the characteristic Lange outsize date – the first one in a model of the RICHARD LANGE watch family, incident­ally – two smaller apertures show the day of the week on the left and the month on the right. Thanks to this arrangement, the calendar displays can be easily read at a glance. The calendar is mechanically programmed to correctly display the differ­ent durations of the months in a year as well as those in leap years until 2100.

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The leap-year indication is located in a small round window on the right-hand side of the 15 of the minute circle. All displays of the calendar switch for­ward instantaneously to assure unam­big­uous readings at all times. To keep the power for the switching process as low as possible, the required energy is gradually built up via a cam and then released abruptly at midnight.

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The ambitious precision goals of Lange’s product developers come to the fore not only in the configuration of the moon-phase display mechanism, which consists of three solid white-gold discs, but also in its design. To achieve a vivid and aesthetically sophisticated image of the orbiting moon-phase display, they chose a special coating process.

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On the celestial disc, for example, interference effects absorb all of the non-blue colour spectra of the incident light. The result is a deep-blue surface studded with more than a thousand high-contrast, sharply contoured stars.

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Constant force for two weeks 

With two rugged mainsprings, the twin barrel delivers a power reserve of 14 days. When a spring barrel stores so much energy, special technical precautions must be taken to keep the rate of the watch stable during the entire power-reserve period. The torque of the fully wound spring would be too high to be delivered directly to the going train. And as its torque declines when it approaches the unwound state, the accuracy of the watch would deteriorate.

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An elaborate constant-force escapement compensates for both phe­no­mena. In ten-second intervals, it releases an identical portion of the available energy to the balance, thus assuring that the torque remains constant. The result is an unvarying amplitude and high rate accuracy from the first day to the last. At the 6-o’clock position, a power-reserve indicator in the form of a circumferential ring tells the owner when the time has come to replenish the movement with fresh energy via the winding crown.

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The pursuit of supreme precision  

Since 2003, Lange has been part of the small community of watch manufactories that master the technology needed to produce balance springs. Only thus can the utmost precision be assured.

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For this reason, in addition to the balance spring, the remontoir spring of the constant-force escapement is also made in-house for the new L096.1 manufacture calibre of the RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna”. The indexless oscillator beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour.

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Further Lange-style quality hallmarks include the hand-engraved balance cock and a lavishly hand-decorated movement. They are impressive manifestations of the manufactory’s quest for precision down to the very smallest detail.

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Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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