Girard-Perregaux – iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 Collections

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 Collections NEW

Girard-Perregaux iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 collections pay tribute to the traditional blue colour of the Brand

As one of the fundamental primary colors embodying all that is eternal, powerful and elegant, the Girard-Perregaux flagship 1966 and Vintage 1945 collections now feature dials clad exclusively in blue.
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By its choice of elegant tone, the Swiss Manufacturer offers lovers of fine watches an extra touch of originality and acknowledges the prominence that color has played in many of its historic timepieces. In the closing years of the 18th century, Girard-Perregaux’s founder Jean-François Bautte, was one of the first master watchmakers to make successful use of this distinctive tone, in what was seen at the time as a revolutionary development. It has been a regular feature of Girard-Perregaux watches ever since.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 model combines understatement, delicacy and precision. It is admirably balanced design and well-proportioned dimensions make it one of the most immaculately finished timepieces.
Its magnificent, slightly-domed dial is now presented in a deep blue tone. A subtle sunburst effect creates an interplay of reflections, which makes the light appear to dance with each movement of the watch. Displaying the date in a window at 3 o'clock, the dial is adorned with elegant gilded baton hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, plus a double marker at 12 o'clock. Its leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are also gilded, as is its straight large seconds hand.

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Crafted in pink gold, the case, with its slightly protruding middle surmounted by a beveled, diamond-effect bezel, gives the watch a profile of rare distinction. It has a diameter of 38 mm and is 8.62 mm thick. Inside the case the GP03300-0030 mechanical, self-winding Manufacture movement beats its rhythm as it marks out the hours, minutes, seconds and date. It has a power reserve of up to 46 hours and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. It is fitted with a pink gold pin buckle and alligator strap that matches the deep blue tone of the dial.

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Technical Specifications
 Ref: 49525-52-432-BB4A (Blue dial Blue alligator strap )

Case: pink gold
Diameter: 38.00 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Calibre: Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-0030
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 25.60 mm (11 Ѕ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 27
Functions: hour, minute, central second, date
Blue alligator strap
Pink gold pin buckle

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Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second

The Vintage 1945 XXL collection combines an attractive rectangular case with features representing the most authentic Art Deco style of watchmaking. The new Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second introduces a blue dial as well with iridescent reflections into the range for the first time. Like the case, the dial presents a profile that is twice as curved further emphasized by a vertical brushed effect.

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This contrasts with the satin finish of the small second indication, whose red figure "60" represents the sole touch of bright color to be found in the ensemble. The edge of the dial is surrounded by a railtrack minute circle accompanied by polished "Breguet" applique numerals. The Dauphine-type minute and hour hands are faceted and delicately curved by hand to follow the shape of the dial thus creating a sparkling interplay of light.

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The imposing 36.20 mm x 35.25 mm polished steel case features two vertical gadroons at 12 and 6 o'clock. Equipped with a GP03300-0051 mechanical, self-winding Manufacture movement, the Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second timepiece indicates the hours, minutes and small seconds.

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The model is available in two different versions. The first is equipped with a navy blue alligator strap while the second is fitted with a steel bracelet.

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Technical Specifications

Case: steel
Dimensions: 36.20 x 35.25 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal, secured by four screws
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-0051
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 25.60 mm (11 Ѕ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 32
Functions: hour, minute, small second
Blue alligator strap
Steel folding buckle
Reference: 25880-11-421-BB4A
Steel bracelet
Safety folding with triple-blade buckle
Reference: 25880-11-421-11A

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Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC RESONANCE 3 White Gold RHODIUM

Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC RESONANCE 3 White Gold RHODIUM

It is not the first time Parmigiani Fleurier has combined a large date with a minute repeater. However, no watchmaker has ever before offered instantaneous rotation of such a colossal date. The Toric Résonance 3 is in this sense, a world-first.

AN INSTANTANEOUS OUT-SIZED DATE

Consider the following: if the Toric Résonance 3 had featured a continuous date change occurring within a few hours in a smooth and uniform motion, the mechanical challenge would be moderate. But because we’re talking about an instantaneous date jump occurring in 1/100th of a second, so fast in fact, that its transition is invisible to the eye, this timepiece is a true mechanical feat.
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Despite being cut to an incredible fineness, the out-sized date discs have an immense inertia. This means they require huge amounts of energy to launch in rotation and even more to stop them dead following the instantaneous jump, without them rebounding under the effect of the forces exerted. It’s much like launching a huge truck at 100 km/h in a split second and then having to stop it within a meter.

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Hence every night at midnight, the Toric's white gold case plays host to this extraordinary mechanical feat based on a double cam system. The first cam accumulates energy through continuous friction over the course of 24 hours.

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This arms the large lever continuously, releasing it at midnight precisely onto a 31-tooth wheel. The second cam plays the crucial role of a brake, by controlling a spring-mounted lever. This device keeps the large date discs permanently immobile, releasing them for just a fraction of a second every 24 hours at midnight to allow the instantaneous jump.

A MINUTE REPEATER WITH CATHEDRAL CHIME

Activated by a trigger to the left of the case, the minute repeater strikes the hours, quarters and minutes with a vibrant melody. A minute repeater qualifies for “cathedral chime” when its gongs cover at least 1,5 times the perimeter of the case. The Toric Résonance 3 goes a step beyond this requirement with beautiful snake-shaped gongs that circle twice around the borders of the movement.

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It’s very challenging to accommodate within the small and intricate space of an Haute Horlogerie watch case, but the sound of the chime is considerably richer and more beautiful which makes the true value of a minute repeater at Parmigiani Fleurier. The case in white gold – the perfect material to enhance the sound’s resonance – puts the finishing touch to the beautiful melody.

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The Toric Résonance 3 is a quest to the extreme.  It’s about maximising the size of a date until the very limits of mechanical constraints; creating a harmonious melody until the entire physical space has been consumed; finishing each component with absolute care and hours of devotion, even when they are hidden from
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Technical details

MOVEMENT
Minute repeater & large date movement sounding the hours,
Quarter-hours and minutes
Calibre: PF359
Winding : Manual
Power reserve : 48 hours
Dimensions : 15''' - Ø 33.80 mm
Thickness : 8.89 mm
Frequency : 2.5 Hz - 18.000 A/h
Jewels : 33
Barrel(s) : 1
Components : 459
Decoration : Hand-bevelled main plate and bridges
FUNCTIONS 
Hours, Minutes
Minute repeater
Instantaneous big date accumulator
CASE 
Shape : 3-part round case
Dimensions : Ø 45 mm
Thickness : 14.1
Material : White gold 18 ct
Finishing : Polished
Water resistance : 10 m
Glass : Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown : Ø 7 mm
Back : Sapphire
Back engraving : "MODELE UNIQUE" and individual number
DIAL 
Finishing : Blasted opaline outer, guilloche and hand-engraved centre
Colour : Silver
Index : Black lacquered appliques
Hands : Delta-shaped, lacquered
BRACELET
Material : Alligator
Colour : Black
Brand : Hermès
BUCKLE
Type: Ardillon



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DuBois et Fils – DBF-CAL-100 movement automatic

DUBOIS et Fils – DBF-CAL-100 movement automatic NEW

MOVEMENT DBF-CAL-100 BY DUBOIS ET FILS  

Switzerland's oldest maker of watches presents for the first time its own in-house mechanism    

Le Locle, 12 February 2014 – After more than 228 years, DuBois et fils presents the first in-house mechanism in its history. The new DBF-CAL-100 automatic movement was created based on a Revue Thommen Caliber. The original parts were partially replaced, revised, ennobled and minor technical improvements were carried out on the mechanism. Thomas Steinemann, CEO of DuBois et fils, says that an existing mechanism was very consciously used as the basis for the development of the in-house movement. "This allows us to know exactly what we're getting into. But above all, our analyses have shown the considerable potential which this mechanism still has." With greatly skilled workmanship, an in-house mechanism has been created that is no longer comparable to its predecessor. The interplay of the prevailing anthracite colour with the ennobled parts gives the mechanism its distinctive character.

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The DBF-CAL-100 is the heart of the DBF003 collection – a 3-hand self-winding watch – which will likely be available starting May 2014. With the production of this in-house mechanism, the traditional Swiss company has realised a long-held dream. According to Thomas Steinemann, further development of the DBF-CAL-100 is already taking place. Additional technical improvements, such as an increase of the power reserve, are already underway. The numerous development possibilities, which the mechanism offers, shall in the future be designed and realised in their own small watch workshop. This will clearly make the limited DuBois et fils watch models into one of a kind jewellery pieces. 

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Technical specifications:
Diameter: 25.60 mm (11 ½)
Height: 5.90 mm
Individual parts: 149
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 19,800 A/h
Tolerance: -0 / +10 seconds per day    

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Speake-Marin – Spirit Wing Commander

SPEAKE-MARIN – SPIRIT MK III Wing Commander NEW

The Spirit Wing Commander features high-visibility big date, power reserve indicator and ‘topping tool’ seconds wheel; three-dimensional dial; and titanium case

The Speake-Marin Spirit inhabits a masculine world inspired by the British military where you can practically smell the heady blend of high-octane aviation fuel and the sweat of nervous anticipation. While dress code can be casual – the Spirit looks just as good with a flight suit as with formal attire – courage is essential…

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With its highly legible display including big date and power reserve indicator in a high-tech titanium case, the Spirit Wing Commander packs a battle-hardened punch and adds a fresh dimension to the Speake-Marin Spirit collection
 
 Equipped for the mission: Big date and power reserve

The Spirit Wing Commander is armed with a clutch of indications: Central hours and minutes signalled by sculpted Speake-Marin ‘Foundation’ hands hand-filled with bright white Super-LumiNova (which glows an atmospheric green in the dark); white lacquered seconds wheel at 9 o’clock in the shape of the Speake-Marin ‘topping tool’ icon; white lacquered big date at 12 o’clock; and power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock.

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Instrument panel boasting high-legibility and elegance

The Wing Commander’s power reserve indicator arc provides an intuitive ‘fuel gauge’, displaying a bright Super-LumiNova white when completely wound (full), turning black (half-full), then red (running on empty) as the available energy diminishes. The big date requires only the briefest of glances thanks to its generously-sized display window.

Seconds can be monitored via the circular cut-out in the ‘topping tool’ wheel – flush with the dial – as it passes by a vertical Super-LumiNova white line. The latter is set into the surface, as are the Speake-Marin logo and chapter ring railroad-track, while Roman numerals and hour and minute indicators are in three-dimensional Super-LumiNova, creating a multi-level dial profile.

The fresh white Super-LumiNova and white lacquer contrast superbly with the matte black dial to endow the Wing Commander with exceptional legibility. And the highly visible indications are no less elegant – the Roman Numerals, the ‘topping tool’ seconds wheel and the three-dimensionality of the dial all add a touch of refinement, elegantly counterbalancing the Spirit’s casual aura.

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Sophisticated dial construction

To create the Wing Commander’s dial, a three-dimensional mould of the multi-level dial elements was produced to make a negative mould in which lacquer and Super-LumiNova masks were successively applied by hand, ensuring the correct materials and colours were in the right places. When set, the one-piece dial face was removed from the mould and bonded to the dial plate.
Robust, reliable and ready for battle

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When called into action, the Spirit Wing Commander delivers in both performance and attitude. The ultra-dependable Calibre 1024SPM movement is a real workhorse, the automatic winding rotor and 48-hour power reserve ensuring there’s always enough energy on tap for even the most testing conditions.

For added protection, the Speake-Marin signature fluted crown is set slightly into the straight-grained caseband of the polished grade 5 titanium case with screwed lugs. The three-position crown enables manual winding, rapid date change and hacking seconds.

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‘Fight, Love & Persevere’

Finally, the Wing Commander would not be a Spirit without Peter Speake-Marin’s rousing call-to-action “Fight, Love & Persevere” engraved on the solid caseback. It isn’t just the Spirit motto – it’s a way of life.

The Speake-Marin Spirit Wing Commander is available in titanium.


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Technical Specifications

The Speake-Marin Spirit Wing Commander is available in a 42mm grade 5 titanium case complemented by a hand-made brown leather strap.
Features and indications
• Central hours and minutes
• Big date at 12 o’clock
• Power reserve indicator
• Highly legible one-piece, three-dimensional dial
• ‘Topping tool’ seconds wheel flush with dial
• 42mm Piccadilly case in grade 5 titanium
• Spirit motto “Fight, Love and Persevere” engraved on case back
• Hand-made leather strap
Movement
• Calibre 1024SPM
• Automatic-winding mechanical movement featuring big date and power reserve complications
• Single barrel
• Frequency: 28,800vph / 4Hz
• Power reserve: 48 hours
Dial and hands
• Matte black resin base dial
• White elements in Super-LumiNova, in 3D relief and inset into dial
• ‘Foundation’ central hour and minute hands: Black-PVD and hand-applied white Super-LumiNova
• ‘Topping tool’ seconds wheel, hand-lacquered white at 9 o’clock
Case and strap
• Piccadilly case in polished, grade 5 titanium with straight-grained sides
• Dimensions: 42mm x 15mm
• Screwed lugs
• 27-piece case: mechanically assembled shoulders with screws fixing case back and bezel
• 3-position crown: manual winding, rapid date change and hacking seconds
• Spirit motto “Fight, Love and Persevere” engraved on case back
• Front sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 3atm/30m/100ft
• Hand-made brown leather strap
• Pin buckle in titanium; folding buckle available (sold separately)

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MIDO – COMMANDER II Leather & Chronograph

MIDO – COMMANDER II Leather & Chronograph NEW

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                      Two smart and sporty masculine timepieces

The success of the Commander collection, launched in 1959 by the watchmaker Mido, has stood the test of time over more than five decades. Ample proof of this is provided by the Commander Leather and the Commander Chronograph, two new models in this legendary collection, which both proudly assert a smart and sporty masculinity. Elegance is key for the Commander Leather, while the Commander Chronograph opts for a sportier look. The sleek lines of the rose PVD-treated steel cases and the broad opening of the dials are the hallmarks of a design which has remained timeless, just like the Eiffel Tower, from which these two models derive a subtle inspiration.

The finesse of the Commander’s round case in satin-finished steel endows the timepiece with an inimitable and immediately recognisable silhouette, in the image of the iconic Parisian monument. And like the latter, it has gracefully weathered the years and preserved an eternal youth. Its exceptional longevity offers indisputable proof of its success – the Commander has been uninterruptedly manufactured by Mido since 1959.


A genuine icon of Swiss tradition and expertise, the Commander has thus flourished for more than five decades and lost none of the essence which brought it such resounding success. Its sleek look has made it one of the finest expressions of the Mido philosophy: a mark of true design.

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The Commander Leather and the Commander Chronograph encapsulate a perfect blend of tradition and modernity. With the new developments in the case design, Mido set out to assert the Commander’s contemporary flair while preserving the collection’s emblematic character.

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The fine lines and the diameter of the rose PVD-treated steel case (42.50 mm for the Chronograph model, 40 mm for the Leather model) allow plenty of room for the dial, in an anthracite sunray satinated version for the elegant Commander Leather or adorned with three anthracite snailed counters for the sporty Commander Chronograph. The faceted and domed sapphire crystal protecting the dial lends both timepieces a solid robustness and asserts their resolutely masculine character.

Water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft), both timepieces are equipped with a high-quality automatic movement. The faceted golden-rose appliques which unfurl around the dial are a nod to the Eiffel Tower and the intricate refinement of its metalwork.

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The passing of time is marked by golden-rose hands. For easy reading at night, the hour and minute hands are treated with white Super-LumiNova®, as are the appliques.

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The anthracite leather straps which adorn the Commander Leather and Commander Chronograph only serve to enhance their timeless elegance. While primarily aimed at sportsmen keen to measure their performance, the Chronograph will also appeal to lovers of fine watchmaking – the model is adorned with a transparent case back which reveals the finesse of the decorations gracing the movements.

Several different cases, dials and straps are available for both models.

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RAYMOND WEIL – TOCCATA Collection

RAYMOND WEIL – TOCCATA Collection NEW

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TOCCATA BY RAYMOND WEIL

This year, following in the footsteps of the great composers, RAYMOND WEIL presents its new toccata. With this entry collection, the Brand intends to promote its watchmaking know-how among a wider audience, respecting the tradition handed down from generation to generation within this family company. The notes of this toccata ring out among the most beautiful creations of the music-loving watchmaker.

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RAYMOND WEIL pays homage to the source of its inspiration right from the beginning, by celebrating the one who is behind every great musical work – the composer. Quality finish and sober design, the toccata embodies the brand’s boldness and creativity. The tempo of this collection reflects the presence of gents and ladies models, which are distinguished by their elegant simplicity and timeless style.

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Equipped with a quartz movement, toccata combines subtlety accessibility and quality. The beautifully rounded case is available in 29, 39 and 42mm diameters in steel or yellow gold PVD coated steel. The refinement of the case and its pure lines blend harmoniously with the rounded sapphire crystal, the hallmark of this collection.

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The dials display a simple but precise musical score under the baton of the orchestra’s conductor, which sweeps back and forth incessantly over the indexes or Roman numerals.

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The model with a black galvanic dial and matching leather strap or steel bracelet exudes a rare elegance. The grand finale of this score is an all steel model with a satin-sunray silver dial, punctuated with a small seconds at 6 o’clock, classic and yet contemporary.

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With this launch, RAYMOND WEIL is developing the entry price segment of its collection, while maintaining production quality and precision. Musically, this collection is celebrating the artistic spirit behind every creation, whether in watchmaking or in music.

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RAYMOND WEIL releases its new Toccata…

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Technical Specifications

Reference:  5488 STC 20001

Movement Quartz
Jewels 5
Functions Hours, minutes
Date Window at 3 o’clock
Case 
Round – Polished steel
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 7.89mm
Crown Polished steel – fluted with RW monogram
Crystal Curved sapphire crystal
Dial Black galvanic
Indexes Steel type index appliquesHands Steel type, dauphine shape
Case back Snapped
Black alligator-style calf leather strap with polished steel ardillon buckle
Water resistance 5 ATM

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Technical Specifications

Reference:  5484 ST 65001

Movement Quartz
Jewels 5
Functions Hours, minutes
Date Window at 3 o’clock
Case 
Round – Polished steel
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 8.29mm
Crown Polished steel – fluted with RW monogram
Crystal Curved sapphire crystal
Dial Sun-brushed silver dial
Indexes Steel type index appliquesHands Steel type, dauphine shape
Case back Snapped
Bracelet Polished steel, RW folding clasp with double push-security system
Water resistance 5 ATM
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Press Release
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Jaquet Droz – URBAN LONDON Grande Seconde SW Côtes de Genève

Jaquet Droz – URBAN LONDON Grande Seconde SW Côtes de Genève NEW


BASELWORLD 2014 PREVIEW

The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde is immediately identifiable by its two off-centered dials that describe a figure eight with great purity of line. A uniquely incomparable timepiece since its inception, it is regularly reinterpreted by the brand’s artisans.

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In 2008, Jaquet Droz launched the Grande Seconde SW, a sporty reworking of this iconic model that has only become more successful over the years. A new version will enhance the line in 2014, complete with alligator leather straps and new Côtes de Genève decoration to give the Grande Seconde SW an ever greater aura of luxury.

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The famous Côtes de Genève ornamental pattern typical of Swiss watchmaking has been used on the dials of a new model in anthracite gray. A series of regular lines, the pattern highlights the watch's features and gives it unprecedented depth.  The traditional rubber and metal strap of the Grande Seconde SW has also been replaced by the fine luster of an alligator leather strap in a color to match the dial.

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Jaquet Droz is delighted to unveil the several other variations of this watchmaking icon at Baselworld 2014.

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Technical details

Model: Grande Seconde SW Côtes de Genève
Reference: J029030245

Movement
Jaquet Droz 2663A-S,
Self-winding mechanical movement with ruthenium treatment,
Double barrel, 18-carat white gold oscillating weight
Indications: Off-centered hours and minutes, large seconds subdial
Jewelling: 30 jewels
Power reserve: 68 hours
Frequency: 28,800 v.p.h
Case
Stainless steel, crown with rubber cast, 45 mm diameter
Height 11.93 mm
Individual series number engraved on the case-back
Water resistance: 5 bar (50 meters)
Dial
Anthracite gray Côtes de Genève
Index and figures 5, 6 and 7 in BGW9 Super-LumiNova
Applied 18-carat white gold ring and plates
Hands: Hours, minutes and seconds with rhodium treatment,
BGW9 Super-LumiNova tips
Strap
Rolled-edge hand-made anthracite gray alligator leather strap with tone on tone stitches
Buckle: Stainless steel folding clasp

www.masterhorologer.com





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