Saturday, October 12, 2013

ZENITH - El Primero Lightweight CARBON FLYBACK Chronograph Limited Edition NEW
















ZENITH - El Primero Lightweight CARBON FLYBACK Chronograph Limited Edition NEW

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An avant-garde sports model

Zenith focuses firmly on lightness, daring and innovation in an exclusive version of its El PRimero Striking 10th chronograph featuring high-tech materials. Issued in a 100-piece limited edition, the El Primero Lightweight model teams a titanium and silicon movement with an ultra-sporty carbon case. It signals the dawn of a new era in the fabulous history of the legendary El Primero calibre.

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At the time of its launch in 1969, the El Primero calibre overturned existing conventions by asserting itself as the first-ever automatic chronograph to boast an integrated construction. Also impressing observers by beating at the exceptional frequency of 10 vibrations per second (36,000 vibrations per hour), it is still the world’s most precise series-made chronograph calibre. Over the years, Zenith has steadily fine-tuned its legendary movement in order to optimise its precision, its reliability and its performance. The brand with the guiding star has also taken up the challenge of associating its high-frequency chronograph with other complications such as the tourbillon, the perpetual calendar and the split-second function. In 2010, Zenith reinvented the “jumping seconds” in presenting the El Primero Striking 10th. Equipped with a sweep seconds hand making ten jumps per second and a complete turn of the dial every ten seconds, this chronograph not only measures but also displays tenths of a second with extreme precision. To enhance the performance of this mechanism requiring a considerable amount of energy, the Manufacture from Le Locle notably fitted it with a double chronograph wheel in silicon, a material three and a half times lighter than classic alloys.
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A featherweight engine
Zenith is now taking a new turn by unveiling a sportier and even more avant-garde version of the El Primero Striking 10th. The watchwords are lightness, performance and originality. Through combining technological innovation with creative daring, the engineers and watchmakers of the Manufacture were tasked with the mission of reducing the weight of the watch to an absolute minimum, yet without making any compromises on its precision, its sturdiness and its reliability – just as an engine designed for competition is optimised while bearing all these factors in mind.

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The sizeable feat began with the movement. Based on its latest research relating to new materials, Zenith chose titanium – a light and resistant metal widely used in aeronautics – to machine the main elements of the movements that are the heaviest parts of the watch when they are made in brass: namely the mainplate and five bridges (barrel bridge, balance bridge, pallet bridge, pallet-wheel bridge and chronograph bridge). The Manufacture has also maintained the silicon double chronograph wheel, while adding a lever and an escape-wheel made from the same high-tech, light, antimagnetic material that is harder than steel and guarantees excellent efficiency. The result is a one-quarter lighter engine weighing just 15.45 g (compared with 21.10 g for a similar classic movement).

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Sleek, masculine bodywork 
In terms of the watch exterior, the designers reworked and subtly enlarged to 45 mm the original 42 mm case of the El Primero Striking 10th, while also seeking to make it as light as possible on the wrist. The choice of carbon with its fine black colour and its “chequered” effect evoking the world of competitive racing fits the bill perfectly, while also reinforcing the technical and sporty look of the model. The inner structure of the case is made of ceramised aluminium, a cutting-edge material that is at once light, sturdy and hard (1800 Vickers, as against 160-200 for 316L steel). The two chronograph pushpieces are in titanium. The openworked lugs accentuate the aerodynamic profile of the watch and ensure a perfect flow into the integrated black rubber and high-performance Nomex synthetic fibre strap equipped with a triple folding clasp providing optimal security and comfort.

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A stylish dashboard
The new El Primero Lightweight is also distinguished by its highly original dial featuring a dynamic reinterpretation of the collection’s design codes. Openworking the central part further enhanced the overall lightness-oriented effect while providing a clear view of the El Primero calibre (also visible through the transparent caseback). The disc-type date display has been lightened and reworked with pierced numerals standing out on a small red disc at 6 o’clock. The facetted hands have been hollowed as much as possible and then highlighted by a luminescent coating.  The light grey, blue and anthracite colours recapture the three emblematic colours of the 1969 El Primero chronograph that have become iconic brand features. The red sweep seconds hand with its small Zenith star accurately measures feats to the nearest tenth of a second – just as on the dashboards of the greatest racing champions.

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Sporty, contemporary and decidedly masculine by nature, the El Primero Lightweight model brings a distinctive touch to the Zenith collections, while powerfully confirming the innovative capacities and the creating daring cultivated by the Manufacture. With its avant-garde technology and its youthful, dynamic look, it shows that the El Primero calibre still has a bright future ahead of it and doubtless heralds new developments as the brand with the guiding star is gearing up to celebrate its 150th anniversary in 2015.


















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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

 El Primero Lightweight
•    1st EL PRIMERO CALIBRE IN TITANIUM (5.64 g lighter than a classic El Primero calibre, meaning a more than one-quarter reduction)
•    1st AUTOMATIC EL PRIMERO FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH DISPLAYING 10THS OF A SECOND
•    1ST CARBON CASE
•    OPENWORKED DIAL
•    100-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

Movement
El Primero 4052 W, automatic
Calibre: 13 ¼ ‘’’ (diameter : 30 mm)
Thickness: 6.60 mm
Components: 334
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern
Titanium components: 
mainplate, barrel bridge, balance bridge,
chronograph bridge, pallet bridge and pallet-wheel bridge
Functions
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date window at 6 o’clock
Chronograph with 1/10th second display:
  •  -60-minute counter at 6 o’clock
  • - 60-second counter at 3 o’clock
  • - I/10th second indication by the chronograph hand
Case, Dial and Hands
Material: Carbon
Diameter: 45 mm
Opening diameter: 38.50 mm
Crystal: Cambered sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
Caseback: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Openworked with three coloured counters
Hour-markers: Rhodiumed, facetted and enhanced with Superluminova SLN C1
Hands: Rhodiumed, facetted and enhanced with Superluminova SLN C1

Reference
10.2260.4052W/98.R573
 
Nomex-coated black rubber strap and black triple folding clasp


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Friday, October 11, 2013

Jaeger-LeCoultre - Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea (RED)™ & Atmos 561 by Marc Newson AUCTION












Jaeger-LeCoultre - Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea (RED)™ & Atmos 561 by Marc Newson

Jaeger-LeCoultre pieces customized by
Sir Jonathan Ive and
Marc Newson go under the hammer at (RED) AUCTION on November 23rd


October 2nd, 2013 - New York


Two of the world’s foremost design pioneers, Sir Jonathan Ive, KBE, and Marc Newson, CBE, have collaborated with musician and philanthropist Bono to organize a (RED) Auction celebrating the very best of design and innovation. Jony and Marc have spent the past year and a half curating the collection, which comprises objects from disciplines as diverse as space travel and lighting design to contemporary art and rare automobiles, all unified and distinguished by their excellence and innovation. Proceeds from the 23 November 2013 sale at Sotheby’s New York will benefit The Global Fund to fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria.



The auction will feature icons of design selected by Jony and Marc and works that were personally customized by the pair, including a custom Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 clock with unique red accents created for the (RED) Auction, and a Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea watch which has been customized with a unique red dial and the (RED) logo engraved on the back of the watch. "It's been a thrilling journey for Jony and me to curate this collection of pieces that celebrate extraordinary design that we love, that transcends all boundaries of time and place. Each object and the process of creating it conveys a rich set of human values, so it seems fitting that they should be auctioned with a different sense of human value in mind, to raise as much as possible to help people's lives today," said Marc Newson. “We'd like to thank our partners for their sincere generosity and for giving so gladly and willingly.”
“This is a great honour for Jaeger-LeCoultre to be part of this global project in association with Sotheby’s and support a true sustainable cause (RED) has been fighting for since 2006. Calling upon the Manufacture’s creativity and watchmaking savoir-faire, reinterpreting two of our iconic timepieces with the recognition of two great names of Design has been even more thrilling”, said Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Daniel Riedo.
 
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea

Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to reinterpret this legendary timepiece specifically for the 2013 (RED)TM Auction, creating three pieces whose design remain faithful to the original Europe version of the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea but with a unique red dial. On the back of the watch, the (RED)TM logo is engraved.

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In 1959, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Memovox Deep Sea watch, its very first automatic diver’s watch equipped with an alarm, of which there were two versions: one intended for European sports enthusiasts and the other for American divers. In 2011, in homage to its rich past and to the delight of fine watchmaking connoisseurs, the Manufacture paid tribute to this historical model with a limited series re-edition, the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea watch. Like the original, it came in a European and a US version. Equipped with a 40.5mm-diameter steel case and powered by the automatic Memovox Calibre 956, the 959-piece European version was distinguished by its black dial, while the 359-piece
American version features a black/grey dial bearing the “LeCoultre” signature.


The Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary clock, a work of art that revisits the design’s source

A unique piece of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 by Marc Newson has been customized by designers Sir Jonathan Ive and Marc Newson on the occasion of the 2013 (RED)TM Auction. The clock features red accents on the hands, the month indication and the calibre’s logo. A (RED) TM and Marc Newson logo on the back and the inscription “Unique Piece” seal the unique collaboration between Jaeger- LeCoultre, (RED)TM and the designers.


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Initially born in 2008 from a collaboration with Designer Marc Newson and the Manufacture Jaeger- LeCoultre, the Atmos 561 by Marc Newson has been catapulted into the ranks of today’s great design. While keeping the timeless classicism of the famous clock from 1928 and its quasi perpetual motion, Marc Newson went back to the source of design and conceived a refined and modern aesthetic. Surrounded by a transparent Baccarat crystal bubble, the Atmos clock reveals the hours and minutes, the months and the moon phase on two different rotating disks, and ultimately the number of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 561 that drives the clock.


The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea will be available to view at pre-auction
exhibitions at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong and London;
Hong Kong Exhibition: October 3 – 7
Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wanchai, Hong Kong
London Exhibition: October 12 - 20
34-35 New Bond Street, London W1A 2AA UK
The Atmos 561 by Marc Newson
will be available to view at Bergdorf Goodman in New York;
New York Exhibition: October 16 – November 11
Bergdorf Goodman, 5th Avenue at 58th Street, New York, NY 10019


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Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Parmigiani Fleurier - TECNICA PALME Chrono Unique






Parmigiani Fleurier - TECNICA PALME Chrono Unique NEW



























The palm is a symbol of life that transcends cultural boundaries. Palms thrive in hot, dry countries where every drop of rain is precious, providing thirst-quenching fruit for the local population and welcome shade under their fan-shaped leaves.

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Parmigiani Fleurier has chosen to honour this life-giving tree in a unique timepiece, the Tecnica Palme, which brings together four Haute Horlogerie complications in a single movement, and whose dial represents one of the greatest feats of artistry ever achieved by the brand.

The decorative craftsmanship displayed in the Tecnica Palme equals the technical mastery of the watchmaking itself. Given that its movement features a tourbillon, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, it’s difficult to imagine how any decoration could compete. And yet... The eye cannot help but be captivated by the shimmering brilliance of the palm leaf motif that adorns this piece; it owes its beauty to the art of engraving and Grand Feu enamelling.

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The Tecnica Palme’s decorative odyssey begins in the Parmigiani Fleurier manufactures of the watchmaking centre, which supply two plates (one for the dial, one for the double case-back) in a special “enamellable” alloy of white gold and palladium (210). Before these perfectly smooth plates can be graced by the enameller’s brush, they must first be engraved. This process creates a texture and a pattern which scatter the reflected light from the enamel in all directions. The artisan engraver knows it is his job to give the enamel its brilliance, but is also acutely aware that even the slightest error can obliterate it. He therefore works with painstaking care to engrave each palm-shaped recess in the plates, as well as a host of tiny lines which portray the leaf veins and act as reflectors. In addition, he creates a hollow at the centre of each leaf, which emphasises the three-dimensional impression of depth in the final composition.

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The enameller hence receives a richly textured set of plates that have required dozens of hours of work already. Using a brush, he drops a very fine mixture of coloured glass and water into each recess or segment, then fires the plates in the kiln at 800°C for a few tens of seconds. The water evaporates, and the glass particles melt and reduce in size; they adhere to the support, creating the colour. The enameller applies several successive layers in order to gradually fill the engraved recesses.

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The main challenge of this process is controlling the colour, which darkens as the enamel layers are applied, and achieving this within the constraints of a given thickness. The difficulty therefore lies in finding the precise balance between the set thickness and the perfect colour. To achieve this, the enameller and the engraver had to coordinate their expertise beforehand, learning about each other’s craft and the constraints involved, and together redefining the important parameters for the decorative plates.

The result is a fresco of palm leaves and an extraordinary brilliance.

The light is reflected off the enamel in as many directions as there are angles and reliefs on the engraved case-back’s textured surface. Its colours are intense yet translucent, giving an exquisite impression of depth when the sublime details of the engraving are observed beneath the enamel. The whole composition achieves perfect harmony through the meticulous orchestration of rare shades of blue.

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The decoration features both on the Tecnica Palme’s dial and on the inside and outside of the double case-back. The motif also appears on the ardillon buckle and on the horns of the case. Finally, the enamel is also in evidence on the watch’s hands, where the luminescent coating would normally be applied. In a significant first for the watchmaking world, the skeletonised structure of the hands is filled with a translucent layer of enamel. In this case, with no support from behind, the enamel is applied using the plique-à-jour technique, which requires consummate skill. The hands of the Tecnica Palme form a kind of stained glass window, their delicate colour standing out against the whole composition yet revealing the dial underneath them as they advance. This adds an extra dimension to the sublime interplay of colours that illuminates the piece.

The Tecnica Palme is one of the most complex Haute Horlogerie timepieces, with its mechanism featuring no fewer than four complications. A minute repeater, a chronograph, a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar are housed in a single complete integrated movement.

The minute repeater is wound elegantly by rotating a knurled ring under the bezel a quarter turn clockwise. This sophisticated activation mechanism represents a challenge in terms of water resistance, as the surface area to be protected from water is much larger than a traditional side bolt. The white gold case has been designed to ensure that the minute repeater chime has the best possible resonance in an optimal space. In a world where electricity is omnipresent, the minute repeater, which historically enabled the time to be read at night, may seem obsolete. However, the Tecnica Palme’s two “cathedral” gongs chime the hours, quarter-hours and minutes with an unrivalled tone which will enchant more enlightened watch lovers.

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The movement finishes are exceptional, with all of the bridges hand-engraved. This requires an enormous amount of work both before and afterwards, given that embellishment itself involves deforming the material. All the movement’s settings must be checked and precisely readjusted after the bridges have been decorated. High-quality craftsmanship is paramount at Parmigiani Fleurier, regardless of the hours of behind-thescenes work it requires.

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The Tecnica Palme is a tribute to watchmaking expertise and traditional craft skills. The watchmakers who produced it have truly surpassed themselves; it has revived the intricate beauty of engraving and the subtlety of enamel work; finally, it has brought together and intertwined all of these disciplines to achieve aesthetic harmony. The result is as precious as a palm tree in the midst of an arid desert. TECNICA PALME

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Technical details

MODEL  
Tecnica Chrono – Unique model

MOVEMENT
PF 352
Hand-wound
48-hour power reserve
Calibre 13’’’ – 29.30 mm
Thickness: 9.35 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz – 21,600 Vib/h
47 jewels
Number of components: 578
Minute repeater with 2 ”Cathedral“ gongs
Hand-engraved bridges,
hand-polished bevelling and backing bevelled bridges
FUNCTIONS
Hour
Minute
Tourbillon
Minute repeater
Minute repeater wound up by turning the bezel
Perpetual calendar
Chronograph
EXTERIOR
Round case: Ø 46.70 mm. Thickness: 16.80 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold. Polished finish
Knurled fixed bezel and winding bezel
Water resistance: 10 m
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crown: Ø 7.00 mm
Case-back with sapphire crystal
Hinged double case-back hand-engraved and enamelled according to theme,
with hand-engraved interior
Individual number and 'MODELE UNIQUE' (unique model) engraved on the case-back
DIAL
Material: 18 ct gold
Hand-engraved with a translucent enamel covering
Flat polished applique indexes
Skeletonised Delta-shaped hands enamelled using the plique-à-jour technique
LEATHER
Hermès alligator with engraved and enamelled ardillon buckle,
polished finish


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Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Montblanc - Collection Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Rattrapante





















MONTBLANC Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Rattrapante Limited Edition

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With the spectacular ExoTourbillon Rattrapante, the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 presents a new masterpiece that can be described without exaggeration as a world premiere in the world of watches. This model offers an unprecedented combination of numerous horological complications: a large balance positioned outside the tourbillon’s rotating cage, a chronograph with split-second function, and a three-dimensional regulator dial in gold and grand feu enamel.

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Grandes complications are one of the playing fields on which Swiss watchmakers celebrate their globally unique status. This is a terrain that can best be characterized as the “home stadium” for the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret. The latest example of Montblanc’s expertise, which will debut at “Watches & Wonders” in Hong Kong, adds new challenges to familiar and avidly coveted complications. Unlike a conventional tourbillon, Montblanc’s ExoTourbillon frees the large screw balance from the burden of the rotating cage. Rather than offering a mere chronograph, the new model encases a split-second chronograph with two column-wheels and a classical double clamp. And instead of an ordinary face, the watch’s dial is a fascinating three-dimensional arena of massive gold and grand feu enamel. This masterful combination of the traditional watchmaker’s art and trailblazing innovations comes with an 18 karat white gold case and a regulator dial. The exceptional novelty shows the time in a second zone, includes a day/night indicator and is manufactured in a limited edition of eighteen timepieces.

A complicated history

Rattrapante or split-second chronographs justifiably rank among the so-called grandes complications. It’s quite likely that the first split-second chronograph was built by the Swiss watchmaker Louis-Frédéric Perrelet, the grandson of the watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet of Neuchâtel, who invented automatic winding by means of an oscillating weight in the 1770s. Louis-Frédéric Perrelet presented his “time counter with double counter” in 1827. This invention included two second-hands positioned one above the other: one of them ran continually whenever the chronograph function was active; the other could be momentarily halted at the push of a button to measure an intervening interval. When this button was pressed again, the temporarily halted hand would catch up and return to synchrony with its companion. The French verb rattraper means “to catch up”, so Perrelet named his ingenious mechanism “rattrapante”.

Other sources credit the invention of the split-second chronograph to the Austrian watchmaker Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, who settled in Paris in 1829. In Perrelet’s device, after the rattrapante-hand has been halted and an intervening interval has been timed, a spiral spring draws the hand back to its continually running counterpart. Winnerl, by contrast, devised a construction with a heart-disc and a heart-lever that exerts pressure to return the rattrapante-hand to the desired position. The system with a heart-disc, which is still in use today, inspired the two Swiss watchmakers Henri-Féréol Piguet and Adolphe Nicole to create a zero-return mechanism for chronographs around 1862.

Great efforts for interim results

Ordinary chronographs define the upper limit of so-called “everyday” or “petites complications”, but split-second chronographs are grandes complications in the truest sense of the phrase. Extraordinary mechanical complexity and almost 70% more components than for a conventional chronograph mechanism are needed to enable them to perform their useful function, i.e. momentarily halting the split-second hand to indicate an intervening interval without interrupting the ongoing measurement of an elapsing interval by the chronograph’s elapsed-second hand per se. The watchmakers’ efforts are all the more laborious for delicate steel parts, which impose the utmost demands in manufacturing, finishing and assembly. Fabrication at Montblanc in Villeret occurs almost entirely by traditional manual craftsmanship, so significantly more time and labour are required. All this prior to the “mise en fonction”, when hours or days of meticulous work are lavished on all functional parts of the chronograph and split-second mechanism, which are finely adjusted and, if necessary, delicately abraded. The “mise en fonction” is performed on the fully assembled mechanism: the desired function is triggered and the interplay is scrutinized under a loupe; after noting even the slightest irregularities, the watchmaker disassembles the mechanism and finely tunes it, e.g. filing away a mere 1/100th of a millimetre or making a miniscule shift in the position of a lever; the movement is then reassembled and re-examined under magnification. This process may need to be repeated five, six or more times until everything interacts as expected from a movement made by Montblanc in Villeret.

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 The result is a split-second chronograph movement that elicits sighs of rapture from every watch aficionado who beholds it. When a connoisseurs trigger the chronograph’s functions, many of them will peer through the pane of sapphire crystal in the back of the case and admire the column-wheel (which controls the basic chronographic functions), the split-second column-wheel (which opens and closes the brake-clamps of the split-second wheel), and the manually bevelled steel levers (which, when the corresponding buttons are pressed, transfer their commands to the column-wheels and thence to the gear-coupling, the zero-return hearts and the brake-clamps). Also visible are the slender, elegantly curved, steel springs that press the rattrapante-clamps against the split-second wheel when the rattrapante button at “2 o’clock” is pressed to allow the user to read the duration of an intervening interval. When this button is pressed again, the clamps spread apart and the zero-return heart automatically returns the split-second wheel to synchrony with the chronograph-wheel so that the split-second hand re-joins the chronograph’s elapsed-seconds hand and resumes running in unison with it.

Villeret: The adopted homeland of chronographs


Villeret, a small village in the Jura Region in the Canton of Bern, lies almost exactly at the midpoint of an imagined line connecting the watchmaking metropolises of Biel/Bienne and La Chaux-de-Fonds. The cornerstone for the Minerva watch factory, which evolved into today’s Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret, was laid here in 1858. From its earliest days, incredible dynamism proved that this business was striving for a place among the leaders in its industry.

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Most of its competitors were mere “établisseurs”, i.e. they purchased components from external sources and assembled these parts to produce complete watch movements. But the ambitious people at the manufacture in Villeret had already begun developing their own calibres and laboriously fabricating them by hand. These movements embodied the highest degree of quality and were duly awarded prizes at international industrial expositions. Production expanded to include chronograph movements starting in 1887: these calibres were initially in larger formats for use in pocket-watches, but were soon afterwards also made in smaller sizes for wristwatches. Ongoing specialization in chronographs led in the mid 1930s to the construction of Calibre 19-14, which included a balance that oscillated back and forth 100 times per second and could accordingly measure elapsed intervals to the nearest 100th of a second. Also built were split-second stopwatches, i.e. so-called rattrapante chronographs, which could measure intervening spans of time without interrupting the measurement of an ongoing interval. Successfully used at the Winter Olympics in 1936, these watches formatively contributed to Minerva’s worldwide reputation.

The Patented Montblanc ExoTourbillon

Tourbillon escapements are another specialty of the master watchmakers at the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret. Especially when they’re installed in watches with large and massy balances, these devices pose the utmost demands on their makers’ skills and dexterity.

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The tourbillon was invented more than two centuries ago to counteract the disturbing influence which the Earth’s gravitation exerts on the steady oscillations of a watch’s balance. A tourbillon rotates the entire escapement around the balance’s staff at an unvarying speed, thus compensating for rate errors caused by slight eccentricities in the centre of gravity of the balance and hairspring when the watch is in a vertical position.
With the Tourbillon Bi-Cylindrique, the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 again debuted an exclusive new timepiece that differs in several respects from everything previously seen in haute horlogerie. This is the first wristwatch with a tourbillon escapement that ticks with two cylindrical hairsprings that have identical torques but unequal diameters and that are concentrically positioned one inside the other. This unprecedented device makes it a pleasure to reveal the mechanisms and the mode of functioning of the legendary heures mystérieuses display.

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Constant innovation, i.e. the unceasing quest for the new and the unprecedented, is another indispensable element in Swiss watchmaking tradition as practiced by Montblanc in Villeret. This striving again expresses itself in the patented ExoTourbillon, where Montblanc has further optimized the ingenious tourbillon mechanism and made it even more attractive. The Ancient Greek prefix “exo” means “outside”. This exteriority is meant in two senses for the ExoTourbillon from the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858. First, the rotating cage and the escapement are positioned outside the movement’s plate per se and are located, so to speak, alongside the movement. Second, the balance is installed outside the rotating cage and oscillates on a different plane. Timepieces in the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 reap significant benefits from this novel repositioning. The uncommonly large and massy balance would have required a larger rotating cage if it had been mounted inside a conventional tourbillon construction. But the ExoTourbillon cage has a smaller diameter than the balance and rotates beneath the gleaming golden screw balance.

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he balance is borne between two bridges, the upper of which has a looped shape that recalls a horizontal figure-of-eight as the symbol of infinity. The tourbillon rotates in a two-point bearing at the foot of the axis.
Another exclusive feature of the ExoTourbillon is the speed of its rotations, each of which requires four minutes. Conventional tourbillons typically complete one rotation per minute. Slowing the speed of the rotations enhances the observer’s pleasure and requires less energy from the barrel, but produces the same compensating effect as a speedier tourbillon. The hairspring with an upward Phillips curvature at its outer end oscillates at the traditional pace of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 hertz) and thus enables this chronograph to measure elapsed intervals to the nearest fifth of a second.
Reducing the tourbillon’s rotational speed by 75% yields considerable energy savings. The rotating cage is smaller and has less mass, so its rotary motion requires less energy as well. Furthermore, the balance is freed from the weight of the rotating cage, which yields a further reduction in its energy requirements. Montblanc’s innovative device requires more than 30%
less energy than conventional constructions, and this is advantageous for the functioning of the split-second chronograph. Another essential benefit ensues from separating the balance and the rotating cage: the accuracy of the balance’s amplitude is improved because the balance is not influenced by the inertia of the cage.

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Due to the ExoTourbillon’s innovative configuration and despite the greater mechanical complexity of the split-second chronograph, the rattrapante can function more precisely. It can at the same time rely on the same barrel and the same power reserve as the basic chronograph movement. These advantages would not have been possible in a chronograph that does not rely on the patented ExoTourbillon construction. 
Thanks to a patented energy-saving mechanism in the ExoTourbillon Rattrapante, the precision of measurements of the overall elapsed time and the intervening intervals by the ExoTourbillon with chronograph function is wed with a cleverly designed split-second function. With the rattrapante mechanism as the most complicated form of chronograph, the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret demonstrates its competence in the most challenging “freestyle” aspect of the chronographic discipline.

Regulator dial with second time zone and day/night indicator

The ExoTourbillon Rattrapante shows the ordinary time of day or night as do regulator clocks, the faces of which give the main stage to the minute-hand, while the hour-hand slowly circles its subdial at “6 o’clock”. This is a charming allusion to the historical long-case regulator clocks that kept time more than two centuries ago in the offices of shipping companies at major harbours, in the ateliers of famous watch manufactories and in the ministries of the world powers. This display is augmented on the dial of the ExoTourbillon split-second chronograph by an indicator for the time in a second zone, a complication which enjoys increasingly strong popularity in our modern era of unlimited mobility. The smaller dial at “6 o’clock” accordingly bears two hour-hands: the upper and skeletonised hand shows the hour in the current local time zone, while its underlying and greyish companion indicates the hour in one’s home zone. These two hands sweep their circles one above the other and indicate the same hour when the wearer is in his home time zone. But when the watch’s owner travels to another time zone, he presses the button at the “8” to reset the local-time hour-hand in hourly increments. The little 24-hour display, which keeps the user informed about the current time in his home zone, is located at the right beside the subdial for the hours.

The grand theatre of haute horlogerie


The new ExoTourbillon Rattrapante doesn’t only spark enthusiasm because of its globally unique combination of complications, but also thanks to its fascinating face, which serves as a grand stage for unconventional mechanisms. Rather than merely peering at a flat dial, the viewer’s gaze enters into an elaborate and meaningful three-dimensional structure that gives a sculptural quality to this timepiece. The excitement already begins where there’s no dial at all, i.e. at the circular aperture through which one can admire the ExoTourbillon.
The ExoTourbillon is positioned outside the movement plate per se, so the partially openwork dial and the transparent pane of sapphire crystal in the back of the case offer deep and rewarding insights. The regulator dial is a multipart construction of massive gold. Its primary surface is plated with rhodium and adorned with a grainé décor, the area around the tourbillon is recessed slightly. It is surrounded by a flange (réhaut) that’s calibrated with a readily legible fifth-of-a-second scale for the chronograph and that simultaneously shows the sequential minutes. All other scales are crafted as grand feu enamel appliques. The applied scale for the continually running second-hand is at the “9”, the chronograph’s counter for thirty elapsed minutes is at the “3”, and the bipartite enamel applique at the “6” hosts the hours display in two time zones and the 24-hour display for the home time. Grand feu enamel ranks among the oldest and most sophisticated techniques for decorating precious timepieces. It’s also the longest-lasting embellishment, which preserves its colour and gleam for centuries.

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Limited Edition in 18 Karat White Gold

Laborious handcraftsmanship, performed in accord with the authentic Swiss watchmaking tradition and invested in each ExoTourbillon Rattrapante from the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858, naturally limits the number of watches in the series of this grandes complications timepiece. The model is therefore available only in a strictly limited edition of eighteen watches, each with an 18 karat white gold case. The circular gold case measures 47 mm in diameter, is polished to a high-gloss finish, and bears a highly domed sapphire crystal with vertically descending flanks (forme chevée) that optimally complements the distinctive shape of the case. The screwed back includes a sapphire crystal viewing window through which a connoisseur can admire the full beauty of the elaborate mechanisms of this chronograph with additional split-second function. The chronograph’s column-wheel is visible at “6 o’clock”; the split-second column-wheel can be seen near the split-second button; and between the two, an aficionado will find the artistically shaped coupling-, braking- and heart-levers, as well as the split-second clamps with their springs. The edges of these components are bevelled, their surfaces are brushed, and their flanks bear fine, elongated embellishments. The perfection of these elaborate decorations is assured only when they’re crafted by hand. Their bright gleam contrasts beautifully with Geneva waves on the bridges, glossy red jewels, and gold-plated wheels.

This new collector’s item from the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 is affixed to a black alligator-leather wristband equipped with a pronged buckle made of 18 karat white gold.

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Technical Specifications
(Ident. 109447)

Movement

Manufacture Calibre 16.61
Type of movement: 
Hand-wound movement with split-second chronograph,
Small seconds, second time zone with 24-hour display and
separate four-minute tourbillon
Chronograph: 
Split-second chronograph mechanism with two column-wheels,
Rattrapante-clamps with springs at both sides and horizontal coupling with sliding gear
Dimensions: 
Diameter = 38.4 mm; height = 11.9 mm
No. of components: 411
Power reserve: 55 hours
Balance: Screw balance; diameter = 14.5 mm; 59 mgcm2
Frequency: 
18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 hertz)
Tourbillon: 
One rotation every four minutes
Hairspring: With Phillips terminal curvature
Plate: 
Rhodium-plated nickel silver with circular graining on both sides,
hand-chamfered edges
Bridges: 
Rhodium-plated nickel silver with côtes de Genève (Geneva waves) recesses circular-grained on both sides, hand-chamfered edges 
Gear-train Wheels:
Gold-plated, circular-grained,
chamfered, diamond hubs on both sides Pinions: polished faces and toothing, burnished pivots
Displays (watch): 
Hours in the first and second time zones at “6 o’clock”,
Minutes from the centre, small seconds at “9 o’clock”,
Day/night indication with 24-hour display at “4:30”
Displays: 
Chronograph’s elapsed-seconds and split-second hand from the
centre, counter for thirty elapsed minutes at “3 o’clock”
Features
Case:
Limited edition of eighteen watches with 18 karat white gold cases;
domed sapphire crystal (forme chevée), screwed back with pane of sapphire crystal    
Dimensions of case: 
Diameter = 47 mm; height = 17.5 mm
Water resistance: To three bar (thirty metres)
Crown: With integrated chronograph button
Push-pieces:
At “2 o’clock” for the rattrapante function
and at “8 o’clock” to reset the time in a second zone
Dial:
18 karat gold with grainé décor,
Applied scales in grand feu enamel on gold for the continually running seconds, the hours,
24-hour display and up to thirty elapsed minutes
Hands: 
Blued steel, chronograph’s hand made of PfinodalTM
Wristband:
Hand-sewn alligator-leather strap,
Pronged buckle made of 18 karat white gold

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