Andres Strehler - Sauterelle Regulated Energy

Andres Strehler - Sauterelle - Regulated Energy NEW

Andreas Strehler is an independent watchmaker based in Sirnach, the German speaking part of Switzerland. Andreas Strehler designs, constructs and manufactures his movements in his own workshop with the help of a small and dedicated workforce. He also develops and constructs many of the tools and machines he uses himself.

 Biography

Born 1971, Andreas Strehler likes to describe himself as „a mere watchmaker“, although he has long since made a name for himself as a „createur“ of extraordinary timepieces. It all began in Frauenfeld in 1987 where he learned the profession of watchmaker. He then worked for Renaud et Papi where he was responsible for prototypes and developed and constructed complicated mechanisms.

1995 Andreas Strehler began working as a self-employed watchmaker restoring antique timepieces and started to develop his own watches. He also constructed movements for H.Moser & Cie, Harry Winston, Maurice Lacroix and Maitres du Temps.
2008 Andreas Strehler presented the Papillon, followed by the Cocon in 2012, examples of his philosophy of watch movements as living organisms. Their form also exemplifies a revival, and a new interpretation, of the traditional art of watchmaking.

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Andreas Strehler presents his latest wristwatch, the Sauterelle. This watch features a device for the constant supply of energy to the balance.

A constant supply of the same amount of energy to the balance is the ideal case, as this is the basis for even running characteristics.
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Andreas Strehler once more has gone his own way to achieve such a constant energy supply. He has done this in order to find the most technically stable solution.
Conventionally, a complication known as Force constante (constante force) acts on the escape-wheel. However, this is the point in the whole movement where the least torque is present.
For this reason, Andreas Strehler's Remontoir d'égalité is attached to the seconds wheel or fourth wheel.

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Every second the visible satellite gear provides exactly the same amount of energy to the seconds wheel and at the same time displays the seconds as dead-beat seconds. The energy is accumulated by a star-shaped satellite through a spring which is re-loaded every second. Then, the satellite wheel is released and transfers its energy to the balance. The satellite wheel then rests again against the palette-stone. This planetary design of the respective wheels is a first in a wristwatch.

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This solution has the advantage that the complete escapement including the escapement wheel oscillates free from any influence between the individual impulses delivered by the Remontoir d'égalité. Hence, the Swiss Anker Escapement performs without influence from the Remontoir d'égalité, with its precision perfected over the last 200 years.

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Fluctuations in the energy supply as well as flaws in the functioning of the gear train (uneven working of the mainspring, the gear train or the motion-work of the hands) are filtered and equalised by the Remontoir d'égalité. In contrast to a Force constante and its fixed division ratio, which demands a frequency of 18.000 A/h, the Remontoir d'égalité can be used with any frequency. The Sauterelle therefore has a frequency of 21.600 A/h which leads to higher precision.

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All watches made by Andreas Strehler show an almost linear force path as the running down of the two mainsprings is limited by a epicyclic gear. Only the optimal part of each mainspring is used where the thrust produced is constant. With the Remontoir d'égalité, Andreas Strehler now concentrates on the elimination of external factors such as temperature. Even minor changes in temperature influences the viscosity of the lubricants used in the mainspring barrels and consequently the even running down of the mainsprings.

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With the Sauterelle, Andreas Stehler for the first time presents a mechanical solution which filters almost all technical and mechanical influences on the escapement.

The constant energy supply to the escapement in the Sauterelle provides a solid basis for complications with variable energy needs such as a chronograph or a minute repeater.

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The name Sauterelle – registered by Andreas Strehler as a trademark since 2008 – was chosen very deliberately, as the jumping of the seconds indication is reminiscend of a grasshopper (Sauterelle in French).

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Press Release

For further inquiries, please contact: press@astrehler.ch

 You  Tube  -  Andres Strehler - Sauterelle

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BREITLING - Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel

BREITLING - Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel Limited Edition NEW

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Intersidereal darkness

The first spacegoing wrist chronograph enters a new orbit with an exclusive and technical all-black version issued in a worldwide 1,000-piece limited series.


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On May 24th 1962, Lt Commander Scott Carpenter orbited the earth three times aboard the Aurora 7 capsule. 
 
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On his wrist was a Navitimer featuring a 24-hour graduation serving to distinguish day from a night – an absolute necessity in space. This space conquest pioneer joined the Breitling collections under the name Cosmonaute. 

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50 years after its first flight in 2012, the Navitimer Cosmonaute is pursuing its odyssey in a new and highly original version featuring a case in black steel created using a highly resistant carbon-based coating. The dial and counters of this high-performance chronograph are in the same black color, enhanced by luminescent indications and small red hands. 

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Breitling changed the design and movement of the Cosmonaut substantially during the more than fifty years of its production. It’s hand-wound movement, the renown Caliber B02, is now built in-house and the size is down to comfortable 43 Millimeters. The water resistance is unfortunately still only 30 meters, which means no swimming or diving with this instrument.

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The Manufacture Breitling Caliber B02, chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) features two key characteristics true to the original model: a manual winding system and a 24-hour display. The famous Navitimer circular slide rule enables pilots to perform the entire range of calculations relating to airborne navigation directly on the wrist. 

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The engraved caseback bears the official Aurora 7 mission insignia. Issued in a numbered 1,000- piece limited series, the Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel is fitted with a black rubber strap further enhancing its tech-savvy, masculine appearance.

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Technical details

 Reference: MB0210B6|BC79|200S|M20DSA.2

Movement
Manufacture Breitling Caliber B02, officially chronometer-certifiedby the COSC
Mechanical hand-wound
High-frequency (28,800 vibrations perhour)
39 jewels
Over 70-hour power reserve
Functions
1/4th second chronograph
30- Minute and 12-hour totalizers
Calendar
Case, dial & straps
Black steel, 1,000-piece limited series
Water-resistant to 3 bars
Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides
Diameter: 43 mm
Dial: black.
Strap: black rubber Ocean Racer (perforated).

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www.breitlingnavitimer.org
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SEIKO - KINETIC 100th Anniversary Elite Collections

SEIKO - KINETIC 100th Anniversary Elite Collections NEW

The 100^th anniversary editions of Premier, Sportura and Velatura. 

A Kinetic celebration

When, in 1913, Seiko built its first wrist watch, the company’s president called it the Laurel. It was not only a first for Seiko, but also a first for Japan and it was the beginning of a tradition of innovation that resulted directly from Kintaro Hattori’s determination that Seiko would always be “one step ahead of the rest”. In celebration of the 100^th anniversary of the Laurel, it is therefore appropriate that one of Seiko’s most innovative technologies would be at the core of the anniversary collection. Seiko Kinetic is a unique achievement, as it is the only watch in the world to convert kinetic energy into power to drive an electronic movement. Seiko Kinetic is worthy of its own laurels.

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With Seiko Kinetic, you are the power.

Seiko Kinetic is a motion powered watch that delivers one-second-a-day precision. It is one of Seiko’s ‘clean energy’ technologies, as it never needs a battery change and it combines the very best of traditional and electronic timekeeping. For 25 years, Seiko Kinetic has delivered what many consumers really want; a reliable, long-lasting, environment-friendly, low-maintenance watch that is at least ten times more accurate than any mechanical watch. However, today’s Seiko Kinetic 100^th anniversary collection offers much more and features the very best among the many Kinetic calibers that Seiko now offers.

Seiko PREMIER

The Premier Anniversary model incorporates the Kinetic Direct Drive caliber. Not only does the rotor power the watch as you move, but you can also power it by turning the crown. When you do so, the power reserve changes function to become a real-time indicator of the energy you impart to the watch through the winding of the crown. With Kinetic Direct Drive, you are the power and you experience the power transfer to the watch in a way that no other watch can match. With this remarkable caliber and the newly re-sculpted Premier case, it is, more than ever a modern expression of a classic inspiration.

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SRG012 Kinetic Direct Drive 5D22
The Premier Kinetic Direct Drive 100^th Anniversary watch; a modern classic.

Seiko SPORTURA

In the Sportura Anniversary model, the perpetual energy of motion meets the genius of a perpetual calendar that is correct until February, 2100. The Kinetic Perpetual caliber is vivid proof of Seiko’s mastery of energy management in watchmaking. As in every Kinetic caliber, the wearer’s movement powers the watch, but, with Kinetic Perpetual, this energy is conserved in a uniquely practical way. If the watch is unworn, it puts itself into sleep mode after 24 hours and, remembering the time, is ready to wake up, to the correct time and date, as soon as it is picked up again.

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SNP064 Kinetic Perpetual 7D48
The Sportura Kinetic Perpetual 100^th Anniversary watch sleeps when unused, and, up to four years later, wakes to the correct time and date.

Seiko VELATURA

Velatura is Seiko’s marine sports collection. First launched in 2007, it is now established as the watch of choice among many in the sailing community, including the leading athletes in the 49er Class, the Olympic class that first informed and inspired the creation of the collection.

The new Velatura collection includes many timepieces designed for the rigors of 49er racing at the highest level, but its flagship is the Kinetic Direct Drive Moon Phase.

SRX010 Kinetic Direct Drive 5D88
The Velatura Kinetic Direct Drive Moon Phase 100^th Anniversary watch. For those who love the open seas.

With the deep blue of the dial and the warm silver tone of the moon, the watch evokes the night sky as seen from the ocean. A Kinetic masterpiece.

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Technical details

Premier
Specifications: SRG012
·Caliber 5D22
 Kinetic Direct Drive
·Case
 Diameter: 41.5 mm, Thickness: 11.86 mm
 Stainless steel with black hard coating
 Water resistance 10 Bar
·Band
 Dark blue calf strap with three-fold clasp with push button release
·Glass
 Sapphire crystal
Remarks
 Approximate recommended retail price range in Europe: Euro 700
 Production until December 2013 only

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Technical details

Sportura
Specifications: SNP064
·Caliber 7D48
 Kinetic Perpetual
·Case
 Diameter: 44.4 mm, Thickness: 12.75 mm
 Stainless steel with rose gold color hard coating with blue hard coating bezel.
 Water resistance 10 Bar
·Band
 Dark blue calf leather strap
·Glass
 Sapphire crystal
Remarks
 Approximate recommended retail price range in Europe: Euro 800
 Production until December 2013 only

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Technical details

Velatura
Specifications: SRX010
·Caliber 5D88
 Kinetic Direct Drive
·Case
 Diameter: 46.3 mm, Thickness: 12.67 mm
 Stainless Steel with rose gold hard coating with blue hard coating bezel.
 Water resistance 10 Bar
·Band
 Dark blue calf leather strap
·Glass
 Sapphire crystal
Remarks
 Approximate recommended retail price range in Europe: Euro 970
 Production until December 2013 only

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ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Prestige HMS Titanium

ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Prestige HMS Titanium

Romain Gauthier profile

Romain Gauthier was born in 1975 in Le Sentier, in the picturesque Vallée de Joux, at the heart of fine Swiss watchmaking. It was there that he developed a passion for traditional haute horlogerie blended with clean, contemporary design and innovative micro-engineering.  After studying precision-mechanics, Romain gained a diploma as a constructor of precision machinery.
In 1997, he started his first job as machine programmer/operator and over the following years, Romain managed and grew the department into one of the best - equipped and most efficient production facilities in Europe.

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Determined to create his own watch brand, Romain completed an MBA in 2002. His final thesis – passed with distinction – was the business plan for Montres Romain Gauthier. He then began work on the timepieces themselves. "I knew that a good movement was the basis of everything I planned to build, so I started with that."

In 2005, after three years of working in secret, Romain launched his brand in Baselworld 2007 with the Prestige HM, featuring his own in-house manufacture movement.

In 2006, after four years of working in secret, Romain launched his brand with the Prestige HM, which featured his own in-house manufacture movement.  The HM was followed in 2012 by the Prestige HMS and the ground-breaking Logical One in 2013.
Manufacture Romain Gauthier is a manufacture in the truest sense of the word in that they design, develop, produce, assemble and regulate entirely in-house.  Manufacture Romain Gauthier has advanced CNC machines and automatic lathes and produces virtually every high-quality component in-house.

The picturesque Vallée de Joux in the Swiss Jura mountains is at the heart of fine Swiss watchmaking. It was there that Romain Gauthier developed his passion for traditional haute horlogerie blended with clean, contemporary design and innovative micro engineering.

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Prestige HMS – Hour, Minute, Seconds – by Romain Gauthier is a perfect blend of the traditional and the contemporary. Hours and minutes are clearly legible in the large sub-dial, while cut-outs in the main dial reveal the intricate workings of the precision micro-mechanics of the in-house manufacture movement beneath. The visible oscillating balance wheel at 7 o’clock and open seconds’ wheel at 5 o’clock add vibrancy and animation to an already rich visual experience of mechanics, texture, colour and composition.

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The dial of the Prestige HMS is a series of circles within circles. Working from the outside in, we have a chapter ring on a band around the perimeter of the dial. Inside that there is the off-centre sub-dial of the hours and minutes, its centre a harmonious composite of the engraved R. Gauthier logo on light grey, anthracite sun-ray guilloche radiating outwards and an opening allowing visual access to the movement below. A semi-circular ring arcs over the lower portion of the hour/minute sub-dial and indicates the seconds.

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The elegant 41mm diameter case is distinguished by clean, unbroken lines around its full case perimeter and it is the remarkable absence of a crown that reveals just how special the movement is. Placing the crown on the back increases winding efficiency and water resistance, while reducing wear and stress of components. The large-diameter flat crown enables the watch to be easily wound, even while on the wrist.

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The movement was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier. Virtually every component bears Roman Gauthier's distinctive touch: from the Vallée de Joux style finger bridges that catch both the light and the eye with their seductive polished curves; the bespoke gear wheels with their circular arms; the polished screw heads with their distinctive S-slot; the delicate balance wheel with its distinctive curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights has been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier; and right down to the triangular pallet lever (a Romain Gauthier invention). In fact, the only components not designed by Romain Gauthier in the movement are the mainspring, balance spring and jewels (and even the latter are oversized to his specifications).

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Prestige HMS is available in a 41mm diameter red gold, white gold or platinum case and a 43mm titanium case

ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Prestige HMS Red Gold

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ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Prestige HMS White Gold

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Technical Specifications

Indications: off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds

Movement
In-house manufacture movement Calibre HMS
Power reserve: 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Fine finishing including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks;
Geneva waves, hand bevelled and polished bridges.

Case and strap
Case materials: red gold, white gold, platinum or titanium
Dimensions: 41mm x 12.1, 43mm x 12.1 (titanium)
Water resistance: 10m /1 atm / 30’
Strap and buckle: alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland
with pin buckle in metal to match the case.

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Ulysse-Nardin - Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture

Ulysse-Nardin - Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture Limited Edition NEW


The Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture celebrates the interplay of light and innovation.

Ulysse Nardin unveils its first timepiece featuring an exclusive skeleton tourbillon caliber. Incorporating the very latest silicon technology, it is an exquisite expression of the brand's pioneering spirit.

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An independent watchmaker specializing in innovative techniques, Ulysse Nardin unveils the Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture, its first timepiece featuring a skeleton caliber that has been fully developed and manufactured in-house. With this watch, the Le Locle-based Manufacture combines cutting-edge technology with an aesthetic exploration of the themes of transparency and simplicity. The Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture is an impressive and unique contemporary timepiece that pays tribute to the brand’s prestigious past.

Purity and transparency.

Skeletonizing is a subtle art that requires both watchmaking know-how and an artistic sensibility. The aim is to reveal the inner workings of the movement by reducing the structure of components to a bare minimum, allowing light to penetrate freely through. Ulysse Nardin’s Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture is a brilliant example of this endeavor.

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The watchmaker’s new movement has been specially developed for this occasion, and instantly seduces with its refined architecture and perfectly balanced proportions. The barrel at 12 o’clock mirrors the escapement placed at 6 o’clock. Above the latter is a ratchet wheel engraved with the brand name, insignia and the power reserve. Surfaces are decorated with an eye-catching contrast of bead-blasted and polished finishes. Color variations enhance the visual interest of metallic components. Crimson rubies sparkle among the hand-beveled bridges embellished with a satin-finish “sunray" decoration.


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On the version with a red gold case, each train wheel is rhodium-plated, while those of the platinum version are finished in glowing straw-colored 18-carat yellow gold. The blue of the steel screws echoes the azure tone of the silicon components. The specially designed hands are inspired by a gently curved leaf shape and are skeletonized at their tips. Recalling a Ulysse Nardin caliber from 1922, the back bears a screwed-in plate engraved with the serial number, making each timepiece unique.

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Cutting-edge technique.

Since it was founded in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has distinguished itself with its pioneering approach. The accuracy and quality of its timepieces have forged an unrivalled reputation for the brand in the rarefied world of fine watchmaking. Perpetuating this spirit, Ulysse Nardin has been a forerunner in the use of silicon, which it featured in a watch for the first time in 2001.

The Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture is an elegant showcase for this exceptional know-how: nestled within the hand-wound mechanical movement is a flying tourbillon that comprises a balance spring, anchor and escapement wheel made from silicon. The power reserve offers an impressive duration of 170 hours.

The Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture is available in two limited editions: 99 pieces in red gold and 99 pieces in platinum.


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Technical Data

Reference 1702-129 red gold
Reference 1709-129 platinum
Movement 
Caliber UN-170 Manufacture,
23 jewels, 18’000 V/H
Power-Reserve 
Approx. 170 h
Winding
Manual Winding
Functions 
Hours and minutes
Case 
Red gold or platinum
Dimensions
44 mm
Water-resistance
30 m
Crystal
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Case-back
Sapphire crystal
Band
Alligator leather with simple buckle

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Ateliers deMonaco - La Sirene Limited Edition

Ateliers deMonaco - La Sirene Limited Edition


 When Mrs Charlene Wittstock visited Ateliers deMonaco during our launch a couple of years ago, she jokingly asked when we were planning to launch a female collection. We promised her to start the development the next day, and…..we actually did.

IDEA
La Sirene, a piece that celebrates our first entry in the women’s high end watch jewelry and which is named and inspired by Mrs Charlene Wittstock in honor of her marriage to HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco.

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INSPIRATION

For the design of the dial we have used The King Protea (Protea cynaroides), the national flower of South Africa - home country of Charlene. It is a distinctive symmetrical form with the flower head in the genus. Importantly, the flower has adapted to survive tough conditions, including wild fires, and as such symbolizes resilience.

For the gemstones in the flower setting, we have chosen a light blue Topaz. This gemstone, together with its cousin aquamarine, is loved by women around the world for its fine blue shades which can complement almost any skin or eye color. Its light blue arouses feelings of sympathy, trust, harmony and friendship. Good feelings. Feelings which are based on mutuality and which prove their worth in lasting relationships. The blue is a divine, eternal color, because it is the color of the sky. Blue is also the color of water with its life-giving force, and importantly the Olympic swimming career of Charlene brought her in contact with her future husband! The stone was introduced in high end jewelry in the 1920-30s in magnificent set of necklace, earrings, bracelet and brooch using light and dark topazes to create dramatic contrast and light reflection. The topaz is reputed to ward off melancholy, bring wisdom and prevent its wearer from straying from the path of virtue.  All in all, what better combination to use to celebrate the beginning of a marriage!

THE WATCH

We developed a 39 mm 18K gold case vs. the 43mm and 44mm cases in the Grand Tourbillon XP and the Minute Repeater. For the movement, we created an accurate automatic movement with the use of contemporary materials like Silicium, and with the finishing you have come to expect from us, including the iconic deMonaco hand engraved rotor at the reverse side.

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THE NAME

Ask anybody in the streets of Monaco and they will refer to Charlene is “La Sirène”, out of respect of her swimming achievement and some will add her deep azure-blue eyes.

LIMITED PRODUCTION

We will only produce in limited quantities, as it depends on our ability to find the appropriate gem stones.

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Technical details
Movement
Automatic Centre Seconds
Automatic bi-directional winding
Curved chamfered decoration on bridges
Hand engraved bi-colored solid gold 18K rotor
Silicium escape wheel
Frequency 28800 beats/hour (4 Hrz)
Functions
Hour, Minutes, centre seconds
Case
Diameter 39 MM
Height 11 MM
Bezel set with 46 baguette cut Topaz stones (4.25 Carat)
31 parts overall
Ultra light Titanium core
Curved shaped 18K gold side panels
Brushed, polished and assembled by hand
See through case back
Front and back sapphire crystal
Multi-layered anti-reflection coating on sapphire crystal
Hand engraved case back, secured with 4 gold screws
18K white gold crown set with Topaz (0.13 Carat)
Water resistant up to 3 ATM
Dial
48 Lozenge cut Topaz stones (1.61) set in flower pattern
White mother of pearl in centre
Hands: 18K white gold hands
Strap
Ateliers deMonaco personalized hand stitched alligator strap
18K gold folding buckle, adjustable
Folding clasp lock finished with curved chamfered edges engraved Ateliers deMonaco
Edition
Limited to 8 pieces

Price: Depending on the gem stones, from €80.000

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Press release PDF
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Elisabeth van Pappelendam
PR & Operations Manager
Betty@ateliers-demonaco.com
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Ulysse-Nardin - Freak Phantom Limited Edition

Ulysse-Nardin - Freak Phantom Limited Edition NEW

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Ulysse Nardin, the Leader in Timepiece Innovation, Shows its Spirit with the Freak Phantom.

 

The iconic Freak marked a milestone in haute horology in 2001, revealing groundbreaking advancements in technology, design and materials, particularly the use of silicium. The limited-edition Freak Phantom continues the evolution of this notorious family of watches.

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Ulysse Nardin is acclaimed for its thousands of “firsts” in watchmaking, and the launch of the 2001 Freak turned the industry upside down and positioned Ulysse Nardin in a realm all its own. The implementation of silicium was one of the Freak’s hallmarks.

Due to the unconventional design of the Freak’s tourbillon carrousel – one that possessed no traditional dial, crown or hands – and being the first timepiece to successfully present escapement wheels constructed of silicium, the Freak forever changed the course of haute horology. The Freak Phantom pays tribute to the revolutionary Freak by expanding its use of silicium and taking its tourbillon to new heights.

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Covert-like in appearance, the Freak Phantom is a timepiece of true invention. A limited edition of 99, it uses silicium in its patented hairspring (Si 1.1.1.) and throughout the majority of its escapement. The entire movement of the Freak Phantom, including the oscillator, is produced in house and offers a lengthy power reserve of more than eight days.

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Its performance is enhanced through its application of cutting-edge technology in the two ball-bearing systems; the balance-wheel concept and design; and the flying tourbillon that indicates the minutes with a tourbillon carrousel that does one complete rotation around the center in 60 minutes.

The cage of the Freak Phantom is equipped with an arrow indicating the seconds on a transparent half-circle, rotating in one minute on itself, with the zero position holding steady on the axis of the minute indicator. The two specially conceived ball bearing systems enable the “flying” function of the minute movement and of the seconds-indicator tourbillon without the need for a supporting bridge.
 

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Simple and user-friendly, the Freak Phantom can be wound by turning the lower bezel, and the time can be adjusted by turning the upper bezel; while the direct gear link crafted between the three “hands” averts dephasing, or the throwing of hours, minutes and seconds out of step when adjusting or readjusting time.

Complementing its exacting function is its confident style. Boldly masculine, its movement, presented in a shade of black, conveys an identity of silent strength, while its 18-karat rose-gold case reveals optimal elegance. It is a juxtaposition of ingenuity and beauty, carrying on the unexpected character of the Freak collection.

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Technical details

Reference 2086-115
Limited Edition    of 99 pieces

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