Watches 7

Timur

SPEAKE-MARIN – J Class MAGISTER Vertical Double Tourbillon NEW

The Speake-Marin Magister Vertical Double Tourbillon features two 60-second tourbillons linked by a limited-slip spring clutch, oven-fired enamel dial, power reserve indicator and day/night indicator. Configuring the tourbillons vertically on the left means time can be easily read from the edge of a shirt cuff while the tourbillons remain concealed – discreet, understated sophistication at its best.

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The tourbillon has played an important role in the story of Speake-Marin. The first timepiece ever to bear the Speake-Marin name was the Foundation Watch, a hand-made pocket watch that Peter Speake-Marin equipped with a tourbillon escapement.

Peter Speake-Marin recognises the tourbillon’s capacity to improve timekeeping accuracy by averaging out positional errors due to gravity. However, it is the visual aspect of this mesmerising escapement that always draws him to it.

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A tour of the dial side begins with the large oven-fired enamel subdial with the hours and minutes displayed by Speake-Marin's signature blued-steel Foundation hands. Just above the subdial is a 72-hour power reserve indicator displaying available power by means of a cam-shaped disc that opens when fully wound to reveal the gears and mechanisms below, and gradually closes and signals empty when a red section of the disc reaches the central marker Under the subdial is a day/night indicator visually balancing the power reserve indicator above.

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However, it is the synchronised pirouettes of the twin tourbillons vertically aligned on the left that quickly attracts the viewer's gaze and grips it tightly. A single massive bridge, impeccably hand finished with mirror polished internal bevels, supports the upper side of both tourbillons. Each tourbillon has its own independent gear train powered by its own mainspring barrel. The two barrels are wound simultaneously via the crown. A miniature limited-slip spring gearbox – the spring absorbs and balances any subtle variations between the two cages – called an équilibreur de marche (rate equalizer) links the two tourbillon regulators.

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The proportions of the generously sized 46 mm Piccadilly case, which is available in either white or red gold, have been deliberately considered, allowing both space for a large and legible time display as well as room for the tourbillons to be fully appreciated without being crammed closely together.

Turning the timepiece over, the viewer is rewarded with a magnificent horological vista through the display back. The underside of the two tourbillons is open to view and a small wheel between the openings of the tourbillon cages marked "Equilibreur de Marche" takes the rate of the two independent regulators and transmits the average of their two rates to the time display.

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Inspiration for the movement bridge design and decoration of the Magister Vertical Double Tourbillon comes in part from one of the first tourbillons in the Speake-Marin collection: The Vintage Tourbillon Mk II. Like the Vintage Tourbillon, the Magister Vertical Double Tourbillon’s movement features German silver bridges, perlage and ruthenium plating. Geneva stripes covering the 3/4 plate movement differ from the status quo in that the waves run not in one direction but two, away from the centre of the plate.

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The équilibreur de marche linking the two 60-second tourbillons consists of two concentric wheels arranged one on top of the other. A small spring sandwiched between the wheels has each end attached to a wheel. Each wheel rotates with its respective tourbillon cage and the spring between is tensioned when the rates of the two regulators differ, or if subjected to asymmetric shocks.

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The Magister Vertical Double Tourbillon is part of the Speake-Marin "J Class" collection and is a limited edition of 5 pieces in white gold and 5 pieces in red gold.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Speake-Marin J Class MAGISTER Vertical Double Tourbillon 18K Red Gold Case
Speake-Marin J Class MAGISTER Vertical Double Tourbillon 18K White Gold Case

Features and indications
• SM/CDH
• Power reserve and day/night indicators
• Hand-finished vertical double 60-second Tourbillon
• White-lacquered, multi-level dial
• Manual wound movement vertical double tourbillon movement
• Power reserve 70 hours
• 46 mm Piccadilly case
• Display back
Dial and hands
• White-lacquered oven-fired enamel dial
• Multi-level dial featuring Roman numerals
• Central Speake-Marin signature
• Foundation hour and minute hands in heat-blued steel
Indications: Offset hours, minutes with power reserve and day/night indicators
Hands: Speake-Marin signature “Foundation” style hands in heat blued steel
• Front and display-back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating
Movement and finishing
• Calibre SM6
• Manual wound movement
• Hand-finished vertical double 60-second Bi-Tourbillon
• Rhodium-finished German silver bridges
• Glucydur balance
• "Equilibreur de Marche" vertical double independent 60-second Bi-Tourbillon
• Two barrels are wound simultaneously via the crown
• Power reserve: over 70 hours
Case and strap
• 46 mm Gold

Iconic Piccadilly case in polished 18K Red Gold

Iconic Piccadilly case in polished 18K White Gold

Case-back: Sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3atm/30m/100ft
Strap: Hand-made, natural Alligator strap
Buckle:

Pin buckle in 18K Red Gold

Pin buckle in 18K White Gold

Limited edition 5 pieces
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Should you need additional information,
feel free to contact our communications department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at:+41 21 695 26 56.
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Timur

BVLGARI – OCTO Solotempo All BLACKS Special Edition NEW

Bulgari and the All Blacks: a limited edition WATCH pays tribute to members of the All Blacks ‘100’ Club

BULGARI, AN OFFICIAL SPONSOR OF THE CURRENT WORLD CHAMPIONS TEAM, THE ALL BLACKS, EMPHASIZES THE SHARED VALUES OF EXCELLENCE AND HIGH PERFORMANCE THAT UNITE THE TWO PARTNERS WITH THE PRESENTATION OF A SPECIAL WATCH TO THE ALL BLACKS’ LONGEST-SERVING MEMBERS.

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For the past few years, Bulgari and the All Blacks have pursued a partnership that highlights their shared values of winning and excellence.

As the world rugby tournament is about to begin, Bulgari, official sponsor to the All Blacks®, has honoured the longest-serving players and management in the legendary New Zealand team by presenting them with a special commemorative watch.

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The four current players in the All Blacks squad who have played 100 or more Test matches have received the special Octo All Blacks 100 Club watch to mark this exceptional achievement. Bulgari also recognised a further 12 members of the current All Blacks management team who have officiated at over 100 Test matches.

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The four players, All Blacks captain Richie McCaw, Tony Woodcock, Daniel Carter and Keven Mealamu were presented with their watches at a special event in London today, with New Zealand Rugby CEO Steve Tew, All Blacks Head Coach Steve Hansen, All Blacks Manager Darren Shand and Assistant Manager Gilbert Enoka also in attendance.

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Featuring amongst the elite in their respective areas, Bulgari and the All Blacks have for the past four years been pursuing a partnership celebrating their common denominators: high performance, charisma and excellence. The legendary New Zealand team, considered to be the best in the world, is the natural partner of one of the most prestigious international luxury Maisons. Bulgari and the All Blacks are engaged in a constant quest for perfection, leading their respective areas with great talent.

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Since they first played more than a hundred years ago, the All Blacks team has been guided by the power that stems from a sense of collective unity, an absolute and enduring value. The players are the custodians of a heritage whose spirit is scrupulously respected: joining the team is an honour and a responsibility. And each of its members adopts an unwritten code that places the team above the individual. The All Blacks have a duty to be a source of inspiration on the field naturally, as well as in their daily lives.

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Bulgari, a jeweller channelling 2,700 years of Roman history, is today recognised as one of the leading brands in the luxury sector. Characterised by the strength of its design inspired by the spirit of Italian genius, Bulgari’s jewellery and watchmaking creations are distinguished by their creativity that is truly unique within the luxury universe.

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Each of the watches awarded to the All Blacks is personalised on the sapphire crystal case-back, with each bearing the initials of the player as well as their All Blacks number.

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The centre of the smoked sapphire crystal features an historical silver fern leaf motif, which is the All Blacks emblem, along with the year 1905, the year the famous All Blacks “Originals” team undertook their ground-breaking tour of North America and Europe.

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The Octo All Blacks 100 Club watch is a concentrated blend of mechanical power matched by equally rugged good looks. Presented as a special edition, in a box evocatively shaped like a rugby ball, the timepiece retains all the characteristics that make the Octo watch truly unique. This veritable piece of contemporary design is inspired by Italian creative genius, the roots of which lie in the architectural perfection of antiquity and the innovative visions of Leonardo da Vinci.

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In this particular iteration, the case with its 110 facets, 41.5 mm opening and 10.60 mm thickness is adorned with a Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coating, perfectly corresponding to the black jerseys of the All Blacks.

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A dark hue that infuses it with even greater strength and elegance, while perfectly espousing the codes of both on-trend chic and athletic protocols.

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Like top rugby players, the heart of power and high performance lies in the movement. That of the Octo All Blacks 100 Club derives its precision and excellence from the finest Swiss manufacturing traditions.

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Developed and assembled by hand in the Swiss Jura, the 28-jewel mechanical self-winding BVL 193 calibre measures time with a precision of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and guarantees a 50-hour power reserve, as well as driving a date indicator that appears in a 3 o’clock dial window.

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