Wednesday, October 22, 2014

MONTBLANC – Metamorphosis II Chronograph


MONTBLANCVilleret 1858 Metamorphosis II Chronograph NEW

The Transforming Alchemy of Innovation and Tradition

Montblanc's unveiling of the new Metamorphosis II at Watches & Wonders turns the spotlight on one of the most complex movements ever developed and designed in Montblanc’s manufacture workshops in Villeret, revealing the timepiece in a completely new aesthetic.

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The most striking feature of this new Montblanc timepiece is its "metamorphosis" concept which is driven by a highly complex mechanical movement with 746 components and protected by various patents that took over 4 years in development. It was at SIHH 2010 when Montblanc first introduced connoisseurs to the astounding concept of overlaid dials, which open majestically like a theatre curtain. The aim of this unique complication is to offer a spectacular change of design and function of the timepiece from classic time to chronograph and back using the same movement. A bold, creative and innovative way to combine the characteristics of traditional fine watchmaking with revolutionary principles of innovation.

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Metamorphosis II is the first timepiece to perform such a capacity for transformation. To master this challenge, the Montblanc master watchmakers took the 156 years of expertise as a chronograph specialist of the Montblanc manufacture in Villeret - the former manufacture Minerva - and borrowed traditional methods from the art of automaton manufacture, an age-old artisanal craft long practised alongside fine watchmaking in the Swiss Jura mountains.

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Crafted entirely by hand, Metamorphosis II represents the perfect symbiosis of tradition and innovation, and will rightfully claim its place among the grand complications in the world of fine watchmaking. A skilful alchemy between classical, timeless beauty and sporty elegance, the new aesthetic of the Metamorphosis II enables Montblanc to open up a new chapter in the history of horological design.

A Timepiece with Two Faces

The functioning principle of the Metamorphosis II is as simple to explain as it is difficult to create : In the classic position, the timepiece displays the classical face of time showing the hours, minutes and date. A slide on the left side of the case is used to transform this elegant, classic indication, by revealing a new face. Additionally, the control device initiates a highly sophisticated mechanical process that transforms the dial with the classical time indication into a chronograph and new function.

The Metamorphosis of Watchmaking

The concept of the Montblanc Metamorphosis II is inspired by the opening of a theatre curtain to reveal a stage. Its innovative principle forges a unique link between the movement components and the dial functions to create a new ensemble.
During the metamorphosis, which is controlled by the sliding bolt situated between "10 o'clock" and "8 o'clock" on the middle case, two wings fold in on themselves inside the lower part of the dial, gradually disappearing on each side. They unveil a chronograph counter disc for counting down the minutes, which rises gradually like a lifting ramp inside the movement until it "absorbs" the hand that indicates the date, thanks to a subtly defined opening. Similar transformation is performed in parallel in the upper part of the dial. Two wings also move apart on the left and right sides, causing the classic time display with Roman numerals to disappear. They reveal a new dial in a new design with Arabic numerals and index, ensuring optimal readability of the chronograph face.
This process is reversible, and the opposite movement is initiated when the control device is actuated again: the sliding wings at the top and bottom of the dial are re-deployed, concealing the chronograph counter, which is once more lowered out of sight inside the movement, and bringing the timepiece 's classic, elegant face back to the fore.

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One of the most innovative, technical characteristics of the Metamorphosis II is its ability to permanently retain all of its functions irrespective of the chosen face. The chronograph and date functions remain active independently of the watch face. Hence, when the timepiece is in classic mode and the chronograph is actuated, the chronograph minute counter continues to run. When the chronograph face is revealed again, the elapsed time is indicated instantly.

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The same happens for the date: even if the chronograph mode has been active for several days, the date continues to run in the background, and is displayed again with complete accuracy when the watch returns to the classic mode.It only takes around five seconds to switch from one face to the other. During this time, numerous components of the timepiece – the wheels, cams, pinions – begin a perfectly choreographed mechanical dance, driven by a separate barrel and precisely controlled by a force regulator. A total of 82 moving components, all of them meticulously crafted by hand, are involved in this extraordinary watchmaking metamorphoses.

The Time for Classic Elegance

In its classic position, the Montblanc Metamorphosis II displays all the understated elements of elegance of a fine watchmaking timepiece in the most traditional sense. While the red gold case is perfectly round, the display itself is classical yet highly original. The time indication uses the regulator principle with separated hands and scales for the hours and minutes. The hours are indicated by a single hand which moves around a subdial with Roman numerals at "12 o'clock".The minutes display is even more technically complex, with its large central hand tracing a 210 degree retrograde arc between "8 o'clock" and "4 o'clock". Once it reaches the "60" graduation on the right of the dial, the hand instantly returns to the "0" position and traces its path afresh. Finally, a small hand very clearly indicates the date on an additional dial graduated from 1 to 31 at "6 o'clock".

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The hour, minute and date hands show the time on a particularly refined and sophisticated 18K solid gold dial, which features a variety of different artisanal finishes and decorations requiring a very unique know-how of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship. The inner part of each side of the dial is decorated with hand-crafted silvered "Grain d’orge" (barleycorn) guilloché. The lower section adorns a sapphire bridge while the outer part of the dial features an artisanal circular-brushed satin finish as well as the hour counter at "12 o'clock". Finally, the minute track is decorated, with a hand-crafted raised brim index in 18 K red gold and cabochon index.
This decorative work, carried out with the greatest respect for tradition by master craftsmen, illustrates the importance that Montblanc attributes to both the internal and external beauty of its timepieces. In this configuration, the refined elegance of the Metamorphosis II harks back to the golden age of watchmaking.

The Ultimate Chronograph


It takes just five seconds for the Metamorphosis II to undergo the transformation from classic time to a sporty, elegant chronograph face . Thus transfigured, a unique character emerges, poised for action and configured for the measurement of short intervals of time.

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The emerging dial, which displays dynamic Arabic numerals, features a hand-crafted black-coloured "Clous de Paris" guilloché decoration at 12 o’clock for the indication of the hours, beautifully contrasting with the silvered spiral guilloché and circular-brushed satin finish of the centre part of the dial. These different artisanal finishes reinforce the timepiece's readability, infusing it with a precious dynamism.
While the retrograde minute hand retains its original function, the central seconds hand changes its function to serve as the chronograph second hand.The chronograph minutes counter in black rises from inside the movement to the level of the dial and is actuated by pressing the pusher integrated in the crown.With its monopusher column wheel chronograph mechanism, horizontal clutch and large balance wheel with Phillips terminal curve, operating at a traditional frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillation per hour, Montblanc pays tribute to the legacy of the legendary Minerva chronographs, produced since 1858 in the Villeret manufacture. Once the brief time intervals have been measured, the slide can simply be slid across to return the Metamorphosis II to its original configuration featuring its classic face.

Over 156 Years of Watchmaking History

It is thanks to the expertise nurtured over 156 years in the Swiss watch manufactures in Le Locle and Villeret that Montblanc was able to bring its ambitious vision of the Metamorphosis II to reality. All of the watchmaking disciplines and traditional craftsmanship mastered to perfection in the Maison’s workshops have been used for the development of this extraordinary timepiece. Combining a strong respect for tradition and a quest for revolutionary innovation, the Metamorphosis II underlines Montblanc's positioning at the very heart of fine Swiss watchmaking.

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Incorporating a total of 746 components made from precious materials and decorated entirely by hand - 494 of which are dedicated exclusively to the metamorphosis function - this extraordinary new timepiece is the subject of numerous patents and ranks among the most complex of contemporary watches. In the spirit of all the timepieces of the prestigious Collection Montblanc Villeret 1858, the new Metamorphosis II remains faithful to its dedication to perfection in terms of traditional artisanal craftsmanship and innovative construction, aesthetic refinement and reliability.
This truly exceptional timepiece will be produced in a very limited edition of eighteen pieces, offering a unique interpretation of the metamorphosis of time.




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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS


Ident. 112442

Movement: MB M 67.40
Type of movement: 
Hand-wound mechanical movement.
With mechanical transformation of the time indication function to the chronograph function
Chronograph: Monopusher chronograph with horizontal clutch and column wheel
Dimensions: 16 lines (38.40 mm); height =12.45 mm
Number of components: 746 (494 for the metamorphosis)
Number of jewels: 85
Power reserve: Approximately 50 hours
Balance: Screw balance
Frequency: 18'000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Hairspring: With Phillips terminal curve
Main plate: Rhodium-plated nickel silver with circular graining on both sides
Bridges: Rhodium-plated nickel silver with Côtes de Genève
Going-train: Gold-plated, faceted arms, diamond polished surfaces
Classical indications:
Hour counter at "12 o'clock"
Retrograde minute hand
Central seconds
Date indicator at "6 o'clock"
Chronograph function indications:
Central chronograph seconds
30 minute rotating disc counter at "6 o'clock
Features
Case:
18K red gold (5N)
Dimensions: diameter = 52 mm, height = 15.8 mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Back: 18K red gold (5N) with sapphire crystal
Watertightness: 3 bar
Dial:  
Gold decorated with various hand-crafted finishes depending on the face ("Grain d’orge" guilloché, "Clous de Paris" guilloché, spiral guilloché, circular satin finish, minute track with raised edge in 18 K red goldand cabochon index); sapphire bridge; hour circle with black Roman numerals for the classic face and black Arabic numerals for the chronograph face
Crown: 18 K red gold (5N) with mother-of-pearl Montblanc emblem
Pushers:
Sliding mechanism on the case’s flank at "10 o'clock" to start the transformation,
date corrector at "4 o'clock", chronograph pusher integrated in the crown
Hands: 
Hour and minute hands in 18 K red gold (5N),
date hand in nickel silver,
chronograph hands in Pfinodal
Strap:  
Hand-sewn black alligator-leather strap with triple folding clasp made of 18 K red gold (5N)

Limitation: 18 timepieces

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Tuesday, October 21, 2014

ARMIN STROM – Skeleton Pure Limited Edition

















ARMIN STROMSkeleton Pure Collection Limited Edition NEW

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RIGOROUS BEAUTY: ARMIN STROM ANNOUNCES SKELETON PURE

ARMIN STROM continues to distill traditional watchmaking to its absolute essence with the introduction of Skeleton Pure.

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This striking new timepiece eliminates anything extraneous from the bare caliber and highlights the layered construction of the movement by colorizing the essential components, which features the firm's Calibre ARM09-S.

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ARMIN STROM aficionados will recognize it as the same movement eloquently rendered in the more classically designed One Week Skeleton, which the Bienne-based independent manufacture released at Baselworld 2014. But this Skeleton has an entirely different look and feel.

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"The One Week Skeleton is an homage to our brand's founder, master skeletonizer Armin Strom," explains owner Serge Michel. "Skeleton Pure perfectly represents what ARMIN STROM is today."
Claude Greisler, director and chief of horology adds, "Skeleton Pure uses new treatments and technology to bring a fresh and modern look to the highest level of Swiss watch design and craftsmanship. This timepiece illustrates the perfection that can be achieved through machine processing and the way 3D-PVD coating can enhance dimension and bring definition to the engineering."

The manual-wind, double-barrel movement offers an 8-day power reserve with hours, minutes, small seconds and power reserve indicator. Skeleton Pure will be produced in editions of 100 in ARMIN STROM's elements of Air (titanium), Earth (black PVD coated stainless steel), Water (stainless steel) and Fire (18k rose gold). The elements will be released in two phases: Skeleton Pure Fire and Water at October's Salon SIAR in Mexico-City and Skeleton Pure Air and Earth at November's Salon QP in London.

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With Skeleton Pure, ARMIN STROM resolutely moves forward in its pursuit of blending Switzerland's skeletonizing heritage with the future.

ARMIN STROMSkeleton Pure WATER - Stainless Steel

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ARMIN STROMSkeleton Pure FIRE - 18-carat Rose Gold Case


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Technical details

CALIBRE ARM09-S 16½‘‘‘
Characteristics:
Functions:
Hour, minute, small second, power reserve indicator
Winding-mechanism: Manual wind-up with crown wheels turning on the dial side
Impulse: Double going barrel
Plate and bridges:
Fully skeletonised main plate, gear-train bridges and barrel-bridges.
3D-PVD coatings of the main plate correspond to the respective element
Escapement:
Escape wheel and pallets made of solid gold with hardened functional areas
Regulating system: Screwed balance with Breguet overcoil
Frequency: 18,000 A/h
Number of Jewels: 34
Number of individual parts: 146
Diameter: 36.60mm
Height: 6.20mm
Power reserve: 8 days

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Technical Specifications

Ref. ST15-PW.05   Skeleton Pure WATER  Stainless Steel

Ref. RG15-PF.5N   Skeleton Pure FIRE  18-carat Rose Gold Case

Movement
ARMIN STROM Manufacture calibre ARM09-S 16½‘‘‘
Manual-winding,
8-day power reserve,
Small seconds, off-centre time indications
Distinctions: 
  • Fully skeletonised, main plate with blue PVD coating
  • Fully skeletonised, main plate with dark brown PVD coating
Frequency: 18,000 A/h
Jewels: 34
Number of components: 146
Functions: Hour, minute, small second, Tourbillon
Power reserve: 8 days
Case
  • 18ct Rose Gold
  • Stainless Steel
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 43.40 mm
Height: 13.00 mm
Water-resistance: 50 m
Dial ring: 
Sapphire with founded appliques
Hands:
  • Rose gold
  • Stainless steel
Straps
  - Delivered with a genuine dark blue alligator horn-back strap and
stainless steel ardillon buckle as well as an additional dark blue rubber strap.
A double-fold clasp in stainless steel is available on option.
  - Delivered with a genuine black or brown alligator horn-back strap and
18ct rose gold ardillon buckle as well as an additional black or brown rubber strap.
A double-fold clasp in 18ct rose gold is available on option

Limited to 100 pieces

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For more information relating to this press release or to Armin Strom:
Bettina Fleury, Armin Strom AG,
Tel. +41 32 343 33 44, b.fleury@arminstrom.com
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H. MOSER & CIE. – VENTURER Small Seconds Bucherer Edition




















H. MOSER & CIE.VENTURER Small Seconds Bucherer Edition NEW

THE FUSION OF TECHNOLOGY AND BEAUTY

Neuhausen am Rheinfall, October 20th, 2014

Master watchmaker Heinrich Moser was also an enlightened man of business, an astute entrepreneur and an industrial pioneer internationally as well as in his home town Schaffhausen. Using his entrepreneurial spirit, he further evolved the watchmaking craft, putting in place a truly international service and importantly, a network of specialist retailers. A long-term partner of H. Moser & Cie., Bucherer shares many values with the company that has been called the "little pearl of Schaffhausen": both are independent Swiss companies, based in German-speaking Switzerland and both were founded in the 19th century; H. Moser & Cie. in 1828, and the celebrated retailer Bucherer in 1888. Today, H. Moser & Cie. pays tribute to Bucherer by creating the Venturer Small Seconds Bucherer Edition. The particular feature of this timepiece is the colour blue; presented on the all-new midnight blue fumé dial and on the exclusive balance wheel and hairspring, created especially for this model.

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Venturer: the name evokes the successful business ventures of Heinrich Moser and celebrates his entrepreneurial spirit. The Venturer Small Seconds Bucherer Edition is the latest addition to the Venturer collection, which was unveiled during Baselworld in 2014. The red gold models are joined by this new version in white gold.

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Elegant, refined and exquisitely understated, this creation reinterprets the design codes of the Venturer family, with clean lines and a design inspired by the historic pocket watches of H. Moser & Cie. and convex forms typical of the 1960s.

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 Similar to the red gold versions, the Venturer Small Seconds Bucherer Edition features a convex profile, emphasised by its domed sapphire crystal, the line of which is reflected in the dial and the long, tapered hands with curved edges.

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The refined, elegant bezel offers a beautifully clear view of the dial, revealing its exceptional colour. The iconic H. Moser & Cie. fumé dial is available in a brand new midnight blue version, whose sunburst pattern adds an extra layer of detail.

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The back of the watch is no less exceptional, with a blue hairspring and balance wheel visible in the hand-wound HMC 327 calibre.

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H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company Precision Engineering AG assists with the in-house expertise necessary to design, develop, produce and assemble the highly-specialised technical components such as the balance wheels and hairsprings. This expertise was instrumental in developing the blue treatment, creating an impression of depth in the escapement. The result is a piece that features mysterious and constantly shifting sapphire reflections.

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The Venturer Small Seconds Bucherer Edition will be available exclusively at Bucherer in Switzerland, Germany and Austria.

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TECHNICAL FEATURES

Model: VENTURER SMALL SECONDS BUCHERER EDITION

Reference: 2327-0202 White Gold model, Midnight blue fumé dial, Black strap

Case
18-carat white gold, three-part
Diameter: 39.0 mm, height: 12.5 mm
Curved sapphire crystal
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M
Dial
Midnight blue fumé with sunburst pattern
Appliqué indexes and contrasting hands
Movement
In-house hand-wound calibre HMC 327
Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14¼ lignes
Height: 4.4 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vib/h
28 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 3 days
Hacking seconds
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Moser balance wheel and original Straumann® Hairspring with a stabilised Breguet overcoil, both finished in a unique blue colour achieved through a high-precision electrolytic treatment
Functions
Hour and minute
Small seconds hand and sub-dial
Power reserve indicator on movement side
Strap
Hand-stitched black alligator
18-carat solid white gold pin buckle with engraved Moser logo

Press release 
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www.Bucherer.com 
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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Monday, October 20, 2014

BREITLING – Transocean Chronograph Edition


BREITLINGTransocean Chronograph Edition NEW

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Original from all angles

A two-tone dial with two vintage-style counters, and a double caseback complete with a cover: the Transocean Chronograph Edition limited series reinterprets the contemporary classic style of the Transocean line in a highly exclusive spirit. A tribute to Breitling’s priviledged ties with the chronograph.

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A two-tone dial with two counters and a double caseback complete with a cover: the Transocean Chronograph Edition reinterprets the pure styling of this contemporary classic in a highly exclusive spirit.

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Inspired by a star model from 1958 (an ultra-precise, anti-shock, anti-magnetic and super-water-resistant watch that magnificently accompanied the boom in intercontinental air travel), the Transocean reflects the spirit of great journeys and luxury long-haul aircraft. Breitling now introduces it in a limited series radiating originality.

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The front exudes a blend of dynamism and refinement: the dial bearing two vintage-style counters and a date window at 6 o’clock is adorned with a twinzone silver-toned décor, applied hour-markers and the 18K gold version of the B initial that served for many years as the Breitling symbol.

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The result is a technical, pared-down style echoing that of the finest classic chronographs. Turning the watch reveals another surprise, since the steel case is distinguished by a double back protected by a cover providing space for a personalized engraving and a sapphire crystal affording a chance to admire an exclusive ‘engine’:

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Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01, a high-performance selfwinding chronograph movement chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute).

BREITLING Caliber B01

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Issued in a 2,000-piece production run, the Transocean Chronograph Edition limited series is teamed with an original steel mesh bracelet.

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It also comes with a leather or crocodile leather strap.
Totally chronograph. Totally Breitling.



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Technical details

   Model: Transocean Chronograph Edition 2,000 piece

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Reference: AB015412/G784/154A

Movement
Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01,
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding
High-frequency (28,800 vibrations)
47 jewels
Over 70-hour power Reserve
Functions
1/4th of a second chronograph and 30-minute totalizer
Calendar
Case
Stainless Steel
Water-resistant to 100 m/330 ft
Convex sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Double caseback with transparent sapphire crystal
Diameter: 43 mm
Dial
Mercury silver
Straps/bracelets
Ocean Classic bracelet in steel.
Barenia leather, crocodile leather,
Military/Ocean Classic

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ARNOLD & SON – Instrument CTB Watch of the Year 2014

















ARNOLD & SON Instrument CTB Chronograph Watch of the Year 2014

Arnold & Son is proud to announce that the 
Instrument CTB won the Watch of the Year 2014 
Baselworld Gold Award

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The publication Watch Critics recently awarded the Arnold & Son Instrument CTB for its Watch of the Year 2014 Baselworld Gold Award. Founded in 1999, Watch Critics is a well-known bimonthly Chinese magazine that provides collectors, connoisseurs and industry insiders with up-to-the-minute market analysis and watch news.

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The inspiration for the all-new CTB in-house movement came from the timepieces produced during the second half of John Arnold’s life when he and his son John Roger focused on their quest to produce a chronometer that met Royal Navy specifications.

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 The fabulous CTB is the brand’s second chronograph but, with its central true beat seconds hand, also a world-first, combining the complication that is the hallmark of the Instrument collection with outstanding legibility.

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It was achieved by positioning a central true beat seconds hand and a central chronograph seconds hand on the same axis but with different jumping intervals – a phenomenal invention that is protected by two patents. The visual effect of seeing the two hands progress at their own separate pace is entrancing. The chronograph seconds hand advances at a rate of eight beats per second and always looks as if it is about to catch up with the true beat seconds hand, but this never actually happens because the true beat seconds leaps forward again just in time.

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Based on the in-house A&S7103 calibre, the automatic movement features a columnwheel operated chronograph and is configured to give optimum balance to the dial, with off-centre hour and minutes at 12 o’clock and a 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o’clock.

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Haute horlogerie finishing with hand-chamfered bridges and edges, circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes are combined with a brushed and skeletonized rotor, bevelled and mirror-polished screw heads and a light-grey or silvery-white and opaline dial in a timepiece that offers breathtaking depth and dimensions.

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Technical Characteristics

References:  1CHAS.S02A.C121S Stainless Steel Case
References:  1CHAR.S01A.C120A, 18-carat Red Gold Case

Calibre:                                  
A&S7103
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding,
column-wheel, ceramic ball bearing, 31 jewels,
diameter 30.4 mm, thickness 8.5 mm,
power reserve 50 h (without chronograph), 28,800 vibrations/h
Functions:
hours, minutes, true beat seconds, chronograph
Movement decoration:
NAC grey treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered
bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève
rayonnantes, circular satin-finished wheels, screws with bevelled
and mirror-polished heads. Oscillating weight: skeletonised with
brushed surfaces
Dial:
Silvery-white and silvery opaline or light-grey and silvery opaline
Case:   
18-carat red gold or stainless steel,
Diameter 44 mm, cambered
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides,
See-through sapphire case back,
Water-resistant to 30 m
Strap: 
Hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather
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Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
CH – 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@arnoldandson.com
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