Wednesday, September 25, 2024

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – BRIDGES Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Pink Gold 2024

GIRARD-PERREGAUXBRIDGES Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Pink Gold 2024

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Born in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city dedicated to watchmaking, the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges draws on the talents of the Maison’s craftspeople and watchmakers. The location of the Manufacture is optimised to harness light, a resource that has also influenced the design of this contemporary high complication, an ultra-refined expression of Haute Horlogerie. The skeletonised torso of this model masterfully plays with three dimensional shapes, conferring an aerial perspective of the eponymous three gold bridges that seemingly float in a light-filled case.

An abundance of light

La Chaux-de-Fonds, once described as a ‘huge factory town’, has been dedicated to watchmaking since the 18th century and is now a Unesco World Heritage site. In 1856, Girard-Perregaux opened its inaugural Manufacture in the city. Today, the company is still headquartered in the city with its Manufacture located on Rue Numa Droz.

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After suffering a devastating fire in the 18th century, La Chaux-de-Fonds was rebuilt with the help of a local engineer, Charles-Henri Junod. Purposely designed for watchmaking, the wide streets are arranged in a grid, tiered against the hillside. The tall buildings incorporate large windows, designed to drink in light, illuminating the workbenches where fine timepieces are made. The city and the surrounding area continue to imbue each Girard-Perregaux timepiece with a distinctive character, much loved by watch aficionados.

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The location of the manufacture is optimised to harness light, a resource that has also influenced the design of this contemporary high complication, an ultra-refined expression of haute horlogerie. The skeletonised torso of this model masterfully plays with three dimensional shapes, conferring an aerial perspective of the eponymous three gold bridges that seemingly float in a light-filled case.

New, yet familiar

During the 1860s, Constant Girard began sketching ideas for a new pocket watch equipped with three bridges. He redefined the role of a bridge from being merely a structural movement component to an aesthetic feature as well. When, in 1867, he unveiled a pocket tourbillon watch, endowed with three parallel nickel silver bridges, he introduced to watchmaking a new design philosophy, embracing both shapes and depths. Later, in 1889, the specification of the bridges was elevated to using noble metal with the release of the famous Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges; widely considered one of the oldest mechanical signatures in watchmaking.

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In 2021, the manufacture released an avant-garde timepiece, the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges, an expression of haute horlogerie that artfully harnesses natural light. Crafted in the company’s Grand Complications Atelier and inspired by the famous pocket watch of 1889, this contemporary creation featured an ingenious movement construction.

Beyond functionality

Eschewing a conventional mainplate, the eponymous bridges not only support the geartrain, barrel and tourbillon, but also provide the essential structural integrity for the remainder of the movement. Appearing to float mid-air, the bridges are braced by neat, openworked plinths that project from the interior wall of the case. Due to the absence of a conventional dial, the indexes are affixed to the case, fulfilling a functional role while preserving the airy appearance of the watch’s interior.

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Subscribing to a philosophy of continuous improvement, the maison has recently revisited the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges and made several improvements to its specification.

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One of the updates for 2024 relates to the indexes which are a new design and include twin batons at noon. The sapphire crystals, positioned front and rear, remain ‘box’ style but are now more curved and, when viewed from the side, appear more symmetrical. A larger crown, endowed with a rounder shape, proves easier to manipulate, while the overall design of the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges has been refined to incorporate smoother contours.

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By shortening the lugs and making the middle of the case rounder, the manufacture’s design team has improved wearer comfort, something that will be especially noticeable to individuals with slimmer wrists.

The updated Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges also incorporates some minute changes that may go unnoticed by non-experts. For instance, the hour and minute hands are now satin-finished and incorporate additional Super-LumiNova, augmenting readability in dim light. The watch comes supplied with two straps, a new fabric effect strap, first seen on last year’s groundbreaking Neo Constant Escapement, and an additional black alligator strap enhanced with a gold effect.

Some things never change

While the manufacture has revisited the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges, first released in 2021, and made subtle improvements, some things remain unchanged. The three gold bridges positioned to the front of the watch remain dressed in black. Girard-Perregaux, a brand known for its nuanced approach to design, presents the trio of gold bridges in a contemporary format. 

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The upper and lower surfaces of the pink gold bridges are dressed in black PVD, while the chamfered edges eschew black coating, revealing a discreet sliver of gleaming pink gold. The flawless execution and notable gleam of each bevelled edge is the product of time-served hands using a small piece of boxwood to achieve the perfect polish; in total, two days of work are required to fully finish the set of three gold Bridges.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:   BRIDGES Tourbillon 3 Flying Bridges Gold

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Reference: 99296-52-3434-5CC

Case & Dial
    Material: Pink gold
    Diameter: 44.00 mm
    Height: 15.35 mm
    Glass: sapphire anti-reflective crystal ‘box’ Case-back: sapphire crystal ‘box’
    Dial: no dial–bridges
ring displaying pink gold indexes with luminescent material (blue emission)
    Hands: pink gold, skeletonised, ‘dauphine’ type with luminescent material (blue emission)
    Water resistance: 30metres (3 ATM)
Movement
    Calibre Reference: GP09400-1273
    Self-winding mechanical movement  
    Diameter: 42.00 mm (18 3/4’’’)
    Height: 9.45 mm
    Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz)
    Number of components: 260
    Number of jewels: 27
    Power reserve: min. 60 hours
    Functions: Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon
Tourbillon
    Tourbillon cage composed of 79 components weighing only 0.250 grams
Strap
    Material: black rubber strap with a fabric effect
    Buckle: pink gold triple folding buckle
    The timepiece will be delivered with a complimentary black alligator strap with golden effect

🔴Retail Price: CHF 164,000 / $ 171,000 USD💰

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Press release - 2024
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Press Contact:
Manager: Ivanne Perrinjaquet, iperrinjaquet@girard-perregaux.ch
Girard-Perregaux,
International PR : christine.giotto@girard-perregaux.com
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Tuesday, September 24, 2024

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date Carbon

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date Electric Blue 43mm Carbon - 2024

A NEW FORGED CARBON MAKES
ITS DEBUT IN THE
ROYAL OAK
CONCEPT
COLLECTION

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Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is pleased to unveil a new 43 mm Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date model, premiering the use of a brand-new coloured forged carbon. 

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Created in Audemars Piguet’s R&D workshops using the Chroma Forged Technology (CFT), this innovative deep black material offers a new aesthetic with subtle touches of colour. 

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This non-porous CFT carbon also provides unprecedented resistance to humidity, heat and shocks. The ultra-light forged carbon case middle of this new Royal Oak Concept, which features blue luminescent pigments, is complemented by a black ceramic bezel, crown, push-pieces and caseback. 

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The two-tone timepiece is enhanced by a dark architectural dial with electric blue accents. Combining watchmaking complexity with ultra-contemporary design, this timepiece embodies the constant quest for innovation that has driven the Le Brassus Manufacture since its inception. 

A HIGH-TECH MATERIAL

After an absence of eight years at Audemars Piguet, forged carbon is making its grand return in the new Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date model.

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Unlike previous generations of carbon, Audemars Piguet’s Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) makes it possible to colour the carbon fibres directly instead of the resin and arrange them as desired in the component produced, opening up new creative possibilities. Its lower resin content compared to traditional forged carbon makes it less susceptible to scratches.

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The manufacturing process involves numerous steps and great expertise. The carbon fibres are first cut into small pieces and coloured with pigments. A multitude of colours is possible, allowing for a wide range of creative developments. The coloured carbon pieces are then manually placed in a mould according to the intended design and completed with resin. 

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This process is repeated to build several layers like a mille-feuille pastry. The content of the mould is then compressed to obtain a block free of air bubbles. Finally, the mixture is placed in an autoclave to be cured under pressure for about ten hours to reveal the properties of the resin and produce a carbon block that is then machined for six to eight hours to create the final component.

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Audemars Piguet was the first brand to introduce forged carbon to watchmaking in 2007. After five vears of research and development, we are proud to present a brand-new generation of forged carbon, which can be coloured while retaining its excellent mechanical properties.”
Lucas Raggi,
Research and Development Director, Audemars Piguet

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As the blending stages are carried out by hand, each case middle produced has a slightly different motif, making it a unique piece that seamlessly combines cutting-edge technology and the expertise of the Le Brassus artisans.  

A FUTURISTIC AESTHETIC  

The new 43 mm Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date model combines watchmaking complexity, innovative materials, ergonomics and bold aesthetic in a two-tone design pairing the dark tones of the openworked dial with electric blue touches for a trendy look.

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The ultra-light CFT carbon case middle, adorned with blue glow-in-the-dark fibres to enhance the watch’s playful aesthetic, is complemented by a black ceramic bezel decorated with satin-brushing and polishing. These meticulous finishes are also visible on the black ceramic crown, caseback and push-pieces. The case and crown are slightly curved to follow the natural shape of the wrist. The push-piece guards at 2, 4 and 9 o’clock are contrastingly honed in titanium in an echo to some of the lighter components of the openworked dial.

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Conceived like the bridge of a movement, the openworked dial is the result of very precise machining. Circular apertures have been cut into a single sandblasted nickel silver plate, finished with black PVD and decorated with diamond-polished rhodium-toned bevels, to reveal part of the micro-mechanics ticking within.  The two-tone design adds depth and play of light to this edgy timepiece, which is further emphasised by the absence of a logo on the dial. In keeping with the blue highlights of the case middle, the inner bezel and the external zones of the three counters are finished in an electric blue hue, which contrasts with the grey and black tones of the movement while enhancing legibility.

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The futuristic look is accentuated by white gold hour-markers and hands, which, like the hands on the counters, are filled with luminescent material that appears white during the day but turns blue in the dark. Lastly, the tachymeter scale on the inner bezel and the gradations on the counters are transferred in white for optimum readability.

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The timepiece is mounted on a blue rubber strap with black accents for a sporty touch. Fitted with the interchangeability system introduced in the 43 mm Royal Oak Concept collection in 2023, the watch also comes with a second black and blue rubber strap.

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“This new CFT carbon is testament (o our teams’ expertise and to the endless quest for innovation that has driven Audemars Piguet since its inception in 1875. It also opens up new creative horizons, promising many surprises for Haute Horlogerie enthusiasts in the years to come.”
llaria Resta,
Chief Executive Officer, Audemars Piguet

HIGH-TECH MOVEMENT EASY TO USE

This timepiece houses the selfwinding Calibre 4407, a feat of mechanical and industrial engineering that combines flyback chronograph, split-seconds, GMT and a large date. Launched in 2023, it is based on the Manufacture’s latest-generation integrated flyback chronograph, Calibre 4401, released in 2019 in the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection. Despite its horological complexity, this movement has been designed to marry ergonomics and simplicity of use.

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Unlike a regular chronograph, the flyback function allows the wearer to reset and restart the chronograph without having to stop it first. The column wheel works with a vertical clutch system. When starting or stopping the chronograph, the hands respond accordingly without any hint of jumping. Furthermore, a patented zero resetting mechanism ensures that both chronograph and split-seconds hands instantaneously reset to zero. 

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 The split-seconds mechanism enables to measure intermediate time intervals thanks to the addition of a split-seconds hand that can be stopped independently of the chronograph hand when the dedicated pusher is activated. When the latter is pressed again, it catches up to the running hand to continue their journey together around the dial, in perfect synchrony. The action can be repeated at will. Located at 9 o’clock, the push-piece subtly nods to the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer (2015) – the first mechanical watch capable of measuring consecutive lap times on the racetrack developed in collaboration with Michael Schumacher. To reduce the movement’s height, the split-seconds mechanism has been integrated within the thickness of the semi-peripheral rotor’s ball bearing and is now visible through the sapphire caseback like in pocket watches and hand-wound wristwatches. Usually hidden from view in selfwinding watches, the split-seconds wheel and two actuating clamps can be admired at the centre of the platinum oscillating weight, under the X-shaped bridge holding the mechanism in place.

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  The timepiece also has a GMT function. The day/night display located at 3 o’clock shows the time in a second time zone. It is adjusted using the crown’s coaxial push-piece at 3 o’clock (one press advances the time by one hour). The GMT system is based on a disc and a hand that rotate at different speeds: the hour hand completes one revolution in 12 hours, while the day/night disc makes a full rotation in 24 hours. Two coloured surfaces facilitate reading: white for daytime and black for night time. Lastly, the large date at 12 o’clock enhances legibility with its digital look, while providing perfect symmetry with the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. 

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Equipped with ultra-contemporary functions and a non-magnetic balance spring with Breguet overcoil, the Calibre 4407 upholds fine watchmaking tradition with its elegant Haute Horlogerie decorations, including sandblasting, circular satin, circular graining and polished chamfers, all visible through the sapphire caseback.

A PIONEER IN THE FIELD OF CARBON

For half a century, the Swiss watch industry has explored a wide range of materials, including titanium, plastics, ceramics, wood and rubber. Audemars Piguet has been at the forefront of this quest, ennobling steel in 1972, and introducing tantalum in 1988, alacrite in 2002, forged carbon in 2007, cermet in 2010 and the first form of precious BMG in 2021

Used in watchmaking since 1998, the first version of carbon, borrowed from the automotive industry, resembles fabric. Long fibres are woven together to form a highly resistant surface. Audemars Piguet first used this technique in 2004 to cover the bezel of the Royal Oak Offshore Juan Pablo Montoya (26030RO).

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In 2007, the Manufacture introduced forged carbon to the watchmaking world, a material previously used for helicopter rotor blades. Forged carbon differs from conventional carbon in that shorter strands of carbon are randomly placed in the resin, giving optimum torsional strength in all directions. This material was first used by Audemars Piguet in the 44 mm Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph (26062FS), dedicated to the Swiss sailing team. 

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Following the success of this 1,300-piece watch, numerous forged carbon models were created, including the Millenary Carbon One (26152AU), which weighed just 70 grammes thanks to its forged carbon and titanium case, launched in 2009 in a limited edition of 120 pieces. The following year, the Royal Oak Offshore collection brought forged carbon to the fore with the Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix (26290IO). Inspired by motor racing circuits, this 44 mm Selfwinding Chronograph sported a case combining forged carbon, titanium and ceramic, bringing together many of the Manufacture’s skills.

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In 2015, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer (26221FT) in collaboration with racing driver champion Michael Schumacher. This revolutionary chronograph, which was the first mechanical watch to introduce the Laptimer function for measuring consecutive laps on the racetrack, was housed in a 44 mm case, combining forged carbon, titanium, ceramic and pink gold.

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Forged carbon made its last appearance at Audemars Piguet in 2016 on the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph QE Il Cup (26406FR). Today, the Manufacture introduces a new high-tech CFT carbon, whose resistance and creative possibilities open up new horizons for years to come.

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2024 marks a historic milestone for Audemars Piguet in the field of materials thanks to its introduction of a new technology that allows the creation of polychrome ceramics and golds, as well as a new generation of forged carbon that is entirely free of porosity.”
Sébastian Vivas,
Museum and Heritage Director, Audemars Piguet

Seek Beyond.”

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
 

Model: Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date / 43mm

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Reference: 26650FO.OO.D353CA.011

MOVEMENT SPECIFICATIONS
Selfwinding Calibre 4407
Total diameter  32 mm (14 lignes)
Movement thickness  8.92 mm
Number of jewels  73
Number of parts  638
Minimum guaranteed power reserve  70
h
Frequency of balance wheel 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 
 
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FUNCTIONS
Flyback chronograph, split-seconds chronograph, GMT 24h, hours, minutes, small seconds and
large date.
CASE
Diameter 43 mm 
Case thickness: 17.4 mm
CFT Carbon case, black ceramic bezel, crown, pushpieces and caseback, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50 m.
DIAL
Openworked dial
Black counters with blue external zone, white gold hour-markers and hands with luminescent coating, titanium chonograph and split-second hands, blue inner bezel.
STRAP
Blue and black rubber strap with titanium AP folding clasp and interchangeable strap system.
Additional black and blue rubber strap.

🔴 Price: 184'000 USD / 170, 000 CHF 💰

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Press Release - 2024
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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