Friday, September 13, 2024

LOUIS MOINET – STARMAN Tourbillon Edition

 

LOUIS MOINETCosmic Art STARMAN Tourbillon Gold Edition - 2024

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 STARMAN
Life in the stars

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“Imagine a watch that shelters the first traces of life ever discovered in the cosmos. It’s a silent messenger, a guardian of the stars, and it was predestined to be called STARMAN.
Among the treasures of my personal collection are meteorites that have fascinating stories. One in particular, the Jbilet Winselwan, is noted for the presence of amino acids, molecules that are considered the building blocks of life itself. I was fascinated by these traces of life in space, so this year I decided to incorporate a fragment of that meteorite in a timepiece with a name that came quite naturally: STARMAN. This watch, which is the product of some remarkable horological techniques, has many other secrets to reveal…
Jean-Marie Schaller, Owner and Creative Director

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The earliest traces of life from the cosmos: Jbilet Winselwan

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A fragment of the Jbilet Winselwan meteorite majestically dominates the upper part of the STARMAN’s dial and competes visually with the tourbillon. This beautiful black stone, spangled with little brown dots, was discovered in the western Sahara Desert. 

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It bears amino acids and is thus a silent witness to the first sparks of life spread throughout the cosmos.

The STARMAN diala highly complex construction

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The STARMAN’s dial is a genuine feat of artistic and technical prowess. Let’s begin with the base cut from the Gibeon meteorite, which fell to earth in prehistoric times and is famous for its emblematic Widmanstätten pattern. 

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The fragment was dyed in a deep blue using an intricate – and secret – process. A second disc made of sapphire crystal features a map of the stars. In the foreground are the constellations carefully painted by hand using a luminescent material. They appear on the backdrop of the map’s longitudinal and latitudinal lines.

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At night, the STARMAN reveals a magnificent stellar panorama, creating an appearance of depth that draws us into the immensity of the universe itself. 

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This nightly display is enhanced by the vibrant blue hands and indexes that provide a touch of technical elegance to this exceptional timepiece.

The solar map and its riddle

Turn the STARMAN around, you will find a fascinating chart of the solar system. 

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The planets, some of which only measure two millimetres in diameter, have been meticulously painted by hand and placed on a grid that seems to float over a star-lit sky.

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The ultimate secret, however, is this: The planets have been precisely positioned as they appeared on March 21, 2013, when the world of watchmaking was stunned by an amazing revelation:  Louis Moinet was the inventor of the chronograph. 

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The public event was held at the Neuchâtel observatory, where Jean-Marie Schaller unveiled the famous compteur de tierces, which had been built by the great French watchmaker in 1816.

The art of horology

The STARMAN defies gravity in a riveting manner thanks to its flying tourbillon in an off-centre cage. The hand-wound movement is equipped with two barrels in parallel. 

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The system, called “volte face,” has one of the barrels turned upside-down or head-to-tail, so they deliver their energy simultaneously, producing a power reserve of ninety-six hours.

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It comes in an 18-carat gold case with a diameter of 47.4 millimetres. Its architecture is opulent and complex, mixing brushed and polished surfaces and a stepped bezel that gives it a unique character.

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The STARMAN is available in two editions limited to twelve pieces each, one in 18-carat red gold, the other in 18-carat grey gold.

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  In creating this timepiece, Jean-Marie Schaller delved into the mysteries of the cosmos. 

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It’s a spirited homage to Louis Moinet, a man whose spirit of innovation and exploration is destined to continue resonating into the future.

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Technical Specifications 

 Collection:  Cosmic Art

Model:  STARMAN Tourbillon 

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Ref. LM-139.50.25 - 18K Red gold - Limited edition of 12 watches

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Ref. LM-139.70.20 - 18K White gold - Limited edition of 12 watches

Case
Material: 18-caratred gold 5N or 18K white gold, polished and satinated
Polished and satinated
Diameter: 40.4 mm
Openworked lugs
Domed sapphire crystal glass
Water resistance: 30 metres
Movement
Hand-wound movement with double barrel and flying tourbillon
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Complication    Flying tourbillon
Oscillations: 28,800vibrations per hour
Rubies: 26
Power reserve: 40 hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes and Flying tourbillon
Dial
Complex multi-layered dial including:
Gibeon meteorite tinted blue
Sapphire disc with hand-painted stars with luminescent material
Jbilet Winselwan meteorite
Hands: Faceted and skeletonized, with luminescent material
Strap
Material: Louisiana alligator leather | Alligator lining, hand-sewn
Clasp: Gold triple-blade folding clasp

🔰Edition  12 pieces (red gold) and 12 pieces (white gold)

🔴 Price: on Request 💰

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Press Release - 2024
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Thursday, September 12, 2024

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm 2024

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Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is happy to reveal three new references of the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 41 mm offering a diversity of materials and aesthetics. Executed in either stainless steel, black ceramic or 18-carat yellow gold, these three models give centre stage to the selfwinding Calibre 3132, whose openworked architecture emphasises the dexterity of Audemars Piguet’s artisans. 

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Two of these timepieces introduce the detailed movement in a new pink-gold tone, for a rich play of light. Combining technical precision with age-old skills, these new iterations will adorn the wrists with elegance and finesse.

THREE CONTRASTED AESTHETICS

The Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked line evolves with three new 41 mm models crafted in different materials. Executed in either stainless steel, black ceramic or 18-carat yellow gold, the case and bracelet are decorated with the collection’s distinctive finishing techniques alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces that play on the light and underline the Royal Oak’s geometrical design.

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The openworked movement and inner bezel of the steel and black ceramic variations feature a new pink-gold tone bringing a warm and vivid touch to the watch, while underlining the precision-work of its different components. The eight hexagonal screws on the bezel are also crafted in pink gold and harmoniously echo the hue of the movement. 

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Furthering the visual contrast, the 18-carat white gold hour-markers and hands offer clear readability on the stainless-steel version, while those on the ceramic model are applied in blackened rhodiumFinally, the seconds indication and the “Audemars Piguet” signature are printed in black on the inner bezel. 

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Moreover, the black ceramic reference is engraved with “Limited Edition of 150 Pieces” on its titanium and sapphire caseback.

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Alternatively, the 18-carat yellow gold reference displays a bold aesthetic blending the bright precious material with an anthracite grey openworked movement, enhanced by a matching inner bezel with the seconds scale and “Audemars Piguet” logo printed in white. The yellow gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent material emphasise the two-tone design, while ensuring optimum visibility even in the dark.

A PATENTED MECHANISM

These new models are powered by the Calibre 3132, a selfwinding movement equipped with a double balance wheel mechanism. This patented innovation, released by Audemars Piguet in 2016, provides the watch with enhanced precision and stability. 

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By incorporating two balance wheels and two hairsprings assembled on the same axis, the system oscillates in perfect synchrony. Visible on both sides of the case, the double balance wheel confers a rare glimpse of the watch’s beating heart. 

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The openworked bridges on either side of the watch reveal some components of the gear train. Their geometries were cut using advanced production technologies, such as computer numerical control (CNC) machining, before being refined into the desired shape. Each component was then finished and decorated using age-old techniques. The polished V-angles reflect the meticulous craftsmanship that went into their creation, as this level of precision can only be achieved by hand.

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The openworked oscillating weight, matching the colour of the case for the steel and yellow gold models or harmonised with the pink gold movement for the black ceramic version, completes the contrasted aesthetic of these three references.

THE DELICATE ART OF OPENWORKING

Combining aesthetics and function, openworking has been an Audemars Piguet specialty since the 1930s. This art consists of removing as much material as possible from the mainplate and bridges to let the light through, revealing the beauty and finesse of the mechanism without compromising functionality. It therefore requires true watchmaking mastery and an in-depth knowledge of materials and finishing techniques.

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Audemars Piguet 1997. Royal Oak "Jumbo" Openworked 14814BA. Calibre 2120SQ, Movement 367889, entirely openworked and gilded. Bracelet 944. Hands set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Case D93405, 39 mm. 18-carat yellow gold.

In the early 1970s, a handful of young Audemars Piguet watchmakers, encouraged by their elders, decided to rediscover the art of openworking, which had fallen into disuse after the 1950s, and set up the brand’s first workshop dedicated to this technique. The visionary Georges Golay, then Director of Audemars Piguet, set the artisans an ambitious challenge: to create 100 openworked examples of the Calibre 2120, a meticulous task requiring 150 hours of work for each movement. The first watch (Model 5442) was delivered in November 1973, followed by thirty more between then and 1976. In 1978, the Manufacture produced 300 openworked timepieces powered by Calibre 2120. By 1984, the workshop employed a dozen craftspeople.

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AUDEMARS PIGUET – 1976.-Selfwinding-openworked-Calibre-2120SQ.

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In the early years of the Royal Oak collection, the calibres remained hidden inside the cases. It was the advent of quartz that redefined the watchmaking codes, prompting the industry to showcase the beauty of mechanical movements and the traditional skills required to create them. Openworking first appeared in 1981 in the form of a pendant for the Royal Oak collection (Model 5710BA), followed in 1986 by the Model 25636, which was equipped with Calibre 2120/2800, an ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement. However, it was in the 1990s, a decade characterised by an abundance of Royal Oak models of all shapes and sizes, that this refined art found its true place in the collection, making its debut in the “Jumbo” line in 1992.

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Over the decades, the Royal Oak collection has grown to include some fifty openworked references, each powered by different movements and available in a variety of sizes, materials and styles, all reflecting years of passion and expertise handed down from generation to generation. Today, these 41 mm novelties breathe new life into this meticulous art, combining it with a distinctly contemporary aesthetic.

Seek Beyond.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked - 41 mm


MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 3132

Total diameter 26.6 mm (11 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 5.6 mm
Number of jewels 38
Number of parts 245
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 45 h
Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, centre seconds.

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 Reference   15407ST.OO.1220ST.02
🔴 Price : 66 500 CHF


CASE
Stainless steel case.
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 9,9 mm
Water-resistant to 50 m.
DIAL
Pink gold-toned inner bezel, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BRACELET
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

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 Reference   15407BA.OO.1220BA
🔴 Price : 88 000 CHF

CASE
18-carat yellow gold case
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 9,9 mm
Water-resistant to 50 m.
DIAL
Blackened inner bezel, yellow gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BRACELET
18-carat yellow gold bracelet with AP folding clasp

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 Reference 15416CE.OO.1225CE.02  Limited Edition of 150
🔴 Price : 88 000 CHF

CASE
Black ceramic
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 9,9 mm
Water-resistant to 50m.
DIAL
Rhodium-toned openworked movement, hour-markers set with pink gold-toned baguette-cut
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 9,9 mm
Water-resistant to 50m.
DIAL
Pink gold-toned inner bezel, blackened rhodium applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BRACELET
Black ceramic bracelet with AP folding clasp

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 New Product Overview 2024

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Press Release - 2024
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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