Tuesday, August 27, 2024

GRAIL WATCH 2.1: Franck Muller – Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph “Arabian Panda” Edition

GRAIL WATCH 2.1 Franck MullerMaster of Complication Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph “Arabian Panda”Edition 2024

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To celebrate Revolution’s latest regional edition, Grail Watch and Franck Muller have created an exclusive double-sided rattrapante chronograph replete with Eastern Arabic numerals, a luminous second dial and other stunning design details.

For over 30 years, since I was a young watch nerd in my 20s, one of my grails has been the famous Double Sided Chronograph created by the brilliant Franck Muller. I’ve always loved Muller’s design genius: by putting a second chrono hand on the back of the watch so that you could read three different scales — telemeter, tachymeter and pulsometer — in massive oversized format across the entirety of the caseback with unrivaled clarity. But for years, that watch stayed frustratingly out of reach from me. I’d hear of one in an auction, but by the time I got there, it was either sold or I had gotten outbid beyond my meager budget. Or it just wasn’t the split seconds or rattrapante version I lusted after but the standard chronograph. So, when I launched my company Grail Watch back in 2021, I did so with the ambition of asking watch brands to turn back the hands of time and resurrect past icons from their archives.

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Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th anniversary ‘tribute’ chronographs

A MIDDLE EAST TWIST

My watch magazine, Revolution, got approval to open a branch in Dubai. For many years following the development of the watch market in the Middle East, I have been truly impressed with the growth of the business there and, in particular, the passion and sophistication of the Middle East collectors. But I knew one thing: I wanted to publish all my content — in print, online, video and even social media — in Arabic. I knew I would have to search hard to find the right editor in chief. I have found this person in Abdulla Al Shaer, who is a marvel. He is a deeply passionate and accomplished watch collector, an incredible fount of knowledge on cinema, an expert in heavy metal (a passion we share) and a brilliant writer and phenomenal educator. “Al Shaer” in Arabic means “The Great Poet” and in this he is aptly named, as he communicates about watches with an insightfulness and evocativeness that is superb.

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Abdulla Al Shaer, Editor-in-Chief of Revolution Arabia

When I asked Al Shaer what he thought was the very first limited edition watch that we should launch to celebrate our office in the Middle East, I loved that he immediately replied, “Wei, it must be a Franck Muller Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph.” It turned out that he, too, had the same love for this extraordinary timepiece. Then he replied, “But it must be different. We must create every index and every number on each scale in the Eastern Arabic characters that we use in Middle Eastern culture.

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With that began an almost one-year process of back and forth correspondence, Zoom calls and in-person meetings among Rudaz, Glénat, Al Shaer and myself. Al Shaer explained, “First, we had to define the typography we used for the numbers. It was important that a Middle Eastern person would look at these indexes and the scales and say ‘Wow!’ because they are beautiful.

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But then we also had to work on the overall design of the dial, which we decided we wanted to execute in a “pandastyle” format. Glénat had an important point to make: “When you make a white or silver dial, the texture that you use is incredibly important. We decided together we wanted the watch to feel pure but very fresh and modern, so we decided to use a kind of frosted finish on the dial that gives it a really beautiful texture when it’s in direct light.

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Then, we also decided to do something a little crazy. I had noticed, along with Al Shaer, that Dubai and the Middle East really come alive at night time. Al Shaer explained, “Because of the heat, people really like to gather in the evenings when the sun goes down.” I asked what he thought about making the second dial on the back case fully luminous, so that owners could actually use their chronographs even in the dark. Al Shaer laughed and said it was an amusing idea.

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Says Glénat now that the watch has been made, “Honestly, I wasn’t sure about this detail and we had to work with our dial maker a lot to get it right, but in the end, it’s this surprising element that I have really come to love.

Rudaz concurs, “This 20-piece limited edition in collaboration with Grail Watch and dedicated to Revolution Arabia — the name of your new edition for the Middle East — is something we at Franck Muller are really proud of. It shows the continuing dedication of Revolution to communicate watch culture at the highest level possible in a new territory and in Arabic.

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To me this new panda-style Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph is, from a visual perspective, simply one of the most stunning watches we’ve collaborated on. The fact that it is a tribute to a region that we are so proud now to be a part of makes it even better.

FRANCK MULLER: MASTERING COMPLICATIONS

The world is clearly in the throes of a tumultuous love affair with all things ’90s, like the Porsche 993 Turbo S and the Ferrari 550 Maranello. But the ’90s has also been recognized as the halcyon era for watches. Savvy collectors have targeted Chopard’s L.U.C 1860, Daniel Roth-designed Breguet watches, especially references 3130 and 3330, Biver-era Blancpains, Pierre-Alain Blum’s marvelous Ebels, especially the Sportwave bracelet, El Primero-equipped chronographs, and, of course, Roger Dubuis Hommage chronographs and Sympathie double retrograde perpetual calendars.

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Frank Muller

Yet, indisputably, in the ’90s, the king of independent watchmaking and unrivaled rockstar of haute horlogerie was Franck Muller. The original enfant terrible, Muller was a wunderkind of 20th century watchmaking. Brash, bold and fearless, Franck Muller was the very first watchmaker to rapidly generate international renown and develop a huge following amongst fashion and Hollywood’s glitterati, with everyone from Gianni Versace to Elton John soon becoming evangelical devotees. There was the famous dinner in Los Angeles celebrating Elton John’s birthday where guests were each seated before a covered dish. At the appropriate moment, the covers were whisked away, revealing a stunning Franck Muller watch that was the legendary musician’s gift to every one of his guests.

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Born to an Italian mother and a Swiss father in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Muller entered watchmaking school at 15 years of age and literally blazed an incendiary trail, leaving many urban legends in his wake. One of the most famous is that after winning a Rolex watch for achieving the top prize at the Watchmaking School of Geneva, he took that watch and transformed it — using just a few more wheels — into a perpetual calendar.

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Jay-Z
 
He managed to get an appointment with Rolex where he showed them the watch, hoping to sell them his design. Unfortunately, they turned him down. However, over his early career, it appears he produced a few of these timepieces, one of which ended up on the wrist of Jay-Z.

DOUBLE QUICK TIME

Of the various complications, Muller was truly passionate about the chronograph. His most famous interpretations of this complication are his Double Sided Chronographs.

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 He explained, “I always loved chronographs and was fascinated that using this sweeping seconds hand, you could read so many different types of information. You could calculate your average speed over a kilometer or mile with a tachymeter. You could calculate a person’s heart rate within 15 beats using a pulsometer. And you could gauge the distance to a physical event (you start the chronograph, for example, when you see lightning strike and stop it when you hear the sound) using a telemeter. But the problem for me was that I always wanted to have all this information on a single chronograph. There are some watches that place multiple scales on the dial of the watch but that end up being very messy and hard to read. One day I had the idea of creating a chronograph with two dials, one on the front and one on the back of a watch. Then I would create a longer pinion connecting the chronograph hands on both dials. The advantage would be you could use the second dial purely for the scales, combining a tachymeter, telemeter and pulsometer, so they were truly visible.

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Grail Watch 2.1: Franck Muller Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph “Arabian Panda”

Tachymeter

This scale allows you to read the speed of an object over one kilometer. For instance, you are in a car and you want to determine your speed. Start the chronograph when you pass the start point of a onekilometer distance. When you pass the end point of this kilometer distance, stop the chronograph. You should be able to read your average speed over that one kilometer on your tachymeter scale.

Chronograph Seconds Hand with hollow Centre Split; Split-Seconds Hand:

The rattrapante, or split-seconds, complication is used to record multiple time intervals that start at the same time but do not end simultaneously. While the chronograph is running, activate the centre pusher to mark the first interval with the chronograph seconds hand. The split-second hand will continue running until the centre pusher is again activated.

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Telemetric scale

This scale is used to tell the distance of objects by measuring the delta between light and sound, for example while observing lightning. Start the chronograph when you see the lightning flash, and stop it when you hear thunder. The telegmetric scale will tell you the distance from your observation point to where the lighting strike happened.

Tachymeter

This scale allows you to read the speed of an object over one kilometer. For instance, you are in a car and you want to determine your speed. Start the chronograph when you pass the start point of a one-kilometer distance. When you pass the end point of this kilometer distance, stop the chronograph. You should be able to read your average speed over that one kilometer on your tachymeter scale.

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Pulsometer

Pulsimeters are the perfect tool for doctors, or anyone who has to monitor heart rates for a day-job, as it allows them to quickly calculate the pulse rate of their patients. 

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This pulsimeter is calibrated for 15 pulsations, which means that you start the chronograph with the first pulse beat and stop it with the 15th. Look at the sweep seconds hand and it will show you your patient’s heart rate over one minute.

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In recent years, these Franck Muller Double Sided Chronographs are gaining a following. I was surprised to see my friend and owner of luxury watch retailer The Hour Glass, Michael Tay, who possesses one of the world’s greatest watch collections (including a Patek Philippe caliber 89, George Daniels’ Space Traveler and a first-series Asprey double signed Patek ref. 2499) wearing one of these Franck Muller Double Sided Chronographs on his wrist. While these were made in different versions, the most interesting amongst them are the split seconds or rattrapante iterations — for one very intriguing reason.

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Said Franck Muller to me many years ago when I went to spend the week with him in his villa in Phuket, Thailand, “You know, I created a modification to the Valjoux 7750 movement to incorporate this split seconds function for our watches. Eventually I sold this patent to La Joux-Perret.” Which means that the Franck Muller Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph is even more special, as its split seconds modification was created by none other than Muller himself.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS


Model:  GRAIL WATCH 2.1: Franck MullerDouble Sided Rattrapante Chronograph “Arabian Panda” Edition

Case
    Material: Brushed stainless steel
    Diameter:  39 mm
    Thickness: 13.45 mm
    Water-resistant to 30 meters
Dial and hands
    Silver with frosted finish and black counters (front)
    Time-telling subdial at 6 o'clock reminiscent of other iconic Frank Muller designs such as the Master Banker
    Blued steel hands
    Super-LumiNova filled pulsometer, telemeter and tachymeter scales (back); Eastern Arabic numerals
Movement
    Self-winding caliber MVT FM 7000-CCRCDF
    Power reserve  54-hour
Functions/Indications
    Hours, minutes, seconds
    Chronograph
    Split-seconds
    Tachymeter, Pulsometer, Telemeter
Strap and buckle
    Handsewn black alligator strap
    Stainless steel pin buckle; additional black leather strap

🔰 Limited Edition to 20  pieces

Due to the extremely limited edition of three pieces, please email shop@grailwatch.com for purchase.

🔴PRICE  : EUR : 23.800 - /   US $ 25.500 (excl. taxes)💰

Shipping will commence mid to end of September.

 
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Press release 2024
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Monday, August 26, 2024

Baume & Mercier – RIVIERA 10769 Acier-Titane Automatic

 

Baume & MercierRIVIERA 10769 Acier-Titane 42mm Sapphire Blue Dial Automatic - 2024

  THE MULTIPLE FACETS OF THE RIVIERA

At the next Watches & Wonders, Baume & Mercier will reveal new models of the Riviera Collection, paying tribute to the various facets of the French Riviera, which inspired it. While illustrating the Maison’s design savoir-faire and watchmaking expertise, they evoke the distinguishing features of this coastal region’s legendary art of living: the ocean, the mountains, the sky, the streamlined architecture of its modern villas, and of course, its festive nights.

Since 1830, Baume & Mercier has been creating timepieces that combine beauty and pertinent creativity with the excellence, constancy and reliability of Swiss watchmaking. The brand is distinguished by the artistic sensibility that was passed down from Paul Mercier, and since its beginnings it has demonstrated its pioneering spirit in the “Art of Shapes.” Its savoir-faire in design boldly explores the lines and contours of innovative watch cases and unhesitatingly challenges contemporary conventions, showcasing its artistry with understated elegance. Baume & Mercier’s expression is modern yet not ostentatious, consolidated by both chic minimalism that never goes out of style and a high level of quality, to deliver durability in every sense of the term. These discreetly luxurious timepieces make loyal companions for any watch lover and on any occasion. They are always there for life’s little highlights. In keeping with its status as a celebratory symbol, a Baume & Mercier makes the quintessential first mechanical Swiss-made watch experience. Much more than a watchmaker, Baume & Mercier reflects a state of mind: an elegant yet casual allure that focuses on natural refinement, fine materials, excellent craftsmanship, and comfort.

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That watchmaking vision inherited from the Baume family, which has endured for nearly 200 years, shines through the dashing Riviera collection. The brand defied the watchmaking codes of the times when, in 1973, it revealed an unprecedented case with a dodecagonal bezel topped with a flat-linked metal strap. It got noticed and became an object of desire, and here it is, fifty years later, still just as creative. As it explores a spectrum of colors and a variety of features, this iconic timepiece shows its resemblance to the Riviera, the sea resort that gave rise to it: that special style, inimitable atmosphere, contrast, emotion...

Each of the new Riviera models evokes one of the many facets of the Riviera, from its natural features to its delightful dolce vita. The minimalist lines of the ultra-modern villas that dot the shoreline, the tides that set the pace on the coast and challenge the water sports enthusiasts who harness the waves, and the seaboard’s unique blend of natural beauty and modern sophistication.

The mountains that overlook the Mediterranean offer a breathtaking panorama, while the shimmering waters call out for a refreshing dip. At sunset, the Riviera comes to life, scintillating with the glamor, cocktail parties, and gala festivities that began in the golden years of the ’60s and ’70s when the jet set dropped anchor here to merrily cultivate the art of combining opulence and extravagance with carefree insouciance.

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As the hours go by, the lights go down. The night takes on its most dazzling jewels. The bright moon and spectacularly starry sky appear to cast a magic spell throughout the region. During this time of peace and serenity, time appears to stand still and the worries of the world seem to fade. This land of contrasts and of paradisaical natural beauty is the idyllic showcase for architectural design. Whether it is adventure or romanticism, whether artistic or gourmet inspiration, the Riviera offers up what each individual seeks.

From the coast to the open water, Baume & Mercier invites you to an unforgettable escapade at the heart of the Riviera through six new pieces in its Collection.

The RIVIERA ACIER-TITANE symbolizes stone and pays tribute to color and texture

As the sun warms the peaks of the Riviera with its glow, a sturdy timepiece equipped with a steel case and a titanium bezel comes into view. It reflects the mineral solidity of the region, built on a stone that imparts subtly nuanced hues even as the blue dial reflects the depth of the sea. The dial echoes the legendary azure blue of this location, taking on its characteristics through the expertise of the watchmaker who designed it after spending years perfecting the art of combining form and function. The piece appears to have been created specifically for this precise moment, this special place. At nightfall, as it gracefully and lightheartedly keeps the passing time, it embodies the fleeting moments that make life so precious.

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This version of the Riviera features a dodecagonal case with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 10.6 mm. Its exquisite craftsmanship intensifies its luminosity, showcasing its graphic color contrasts and precise time indications. In this bicolor version – a recent addition to the collection –, the Riviera subtly combines titanium with gray PVD, asserting a proud appearance. This use of steel guarantees that the piece is lightweight, durable, and resistant, particularly with regard to corrosion. The case of this new timepiece is crafted in sandblasted steel with a blue PVD treatment. It is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal treated on both sides with an anti-glare coating. The sandblasted titanium bezel with a gray PVD treatment is fastened with four steel screws in sandblasted ADLC-coated steel. A gold-tone PVD steel ring links the bezel with the caseband. The dodecagonal case back is crafted in sandblasted ADLC-coated steel and topped with a sapphire crystal. It is fastened with four screws and may be engraved. The free octagonal crown is also made of sandblasted ADLC-coated steel. The embossed gold-tone Phi logo glows in its center.

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Moving to the smoky blue sapphire dial, the emblematic transparent Riviera wave decor comes into view. Roman numerals and riveted gold-tone indexes – coated with white Superluminova emanating a blue luminescence – stand out from it, surrounding faceted gold-tone hour and minute hands that are also coated with white Superluminova to appear blue in the dark. The seconds hand is gold-tone. The date appears in a large aperture at 3 o’clock.

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Equipped with a self- winding Baumatic manufacture movement, the Riviera Acier-Titane offers a remarkable precision, a five-day power reserve (120 hours), and protection against daily magnetic fields. A six -year warranty extension compliments the standard two-year international warranty, bringing an eight-year guarantee to anyone registering on the Baume & Mercier website: www.baume-et-mercier.com. With an oscillation of 4 Hz (28,800 vph), the watch is water-resistant to 10 ATM (approximately 100m). The exquisite refinement of the finishes includes circular- grained bridges, a sand-blasted and snailed baseplate, an openworked oscillating weight adorned with snailed and “Côtes de Genève" designs, and a unique Baume & Mercier engraving.

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The built-in blue rubber strap features a canvas pattern. The strap may be changed without the use of tools thanks to a robust, reliable mechanism. Its triple folding buckle is crafted in sandblasted ADLC-coated steel, and it features security push-pieces and an easy adjustment feature.

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For nearly 200 years, Baume & Mercier has been carrying forth its design savoir-faire and watchmaking expertise, beautifully combining form with function. The timepieces developed and assembled at the Les Brenets manufacture are renowned for their reliability. Moreover, they are an ode to aesthetic understatement, offering precision and luxury craftsmanship. That is why Baume & Mercier is the foremost brand of Swiss-made mechanical watches to give to yourself or someone you love. These creations are an integral part of the subdued luxury and the easy, refined art of living that suffuses the world around them.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection   RIVIERA

Model:  RIVIERA 10769 Acier-Titane Automatic - 42mm

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Ref.  M0A10769

Movement
Swiss Made
Energy:  Automatic, self-winding
Automatic, self-winding watch
Power reserve: 120 hour(s)
Day, Moon-phase
Frequency: 28.800.0vph/4.0hz
Number of Rubies: 21
Case
Shape: Twelve-sided
Size Diameter: 42.00
Thickness: 10.66 mm
Material And Finishes:
Blue PVD steel and titanium, Microbillé
Non-rotating bezel. Featuring a sandblasted titanium bezel
Sapphire crystal case back, With screw
Water resistance: 100
Dial
Colors and Finishes: Blue sapphire, Sans, None
Hands:  Doré 5N, Dauphine, Superluminova Phos BL485nm Grade X1 blanc C1
Strap
Material 
Rubber, Blue

🔴 Price:   $ 4,500 USD 💰

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Press releases - 2024
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