Friday, July 26, 2024

Christopher Ward – C1 Bel Canto Viola 41 Titanium

Christopher WardC1 Bel Canto Viola Titanium 41mm Automatic 2024-2025

The art of sound
C1 Bel Canto Viola: the chime is now

For those who don’t want to be seen wearing the emperor’s new clothes. Creating a chiming watch is one of the greatest challenges in watchmaking – and one that Christopher Ward has passed with the C1 Bel Canto Viola.

Meet the extraordinary C1 Bel Canto.

Pre-order by the end of January 2025. With a new, iridescent Viola dial in a lightweight titanium case, they seem completely alive, marking each hour with a cheerful, reassuring internal chime. And it sees The CW asserting its watchmaking ambitions like never before.

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Christopher Ward has always pushed the creative envelope. It’s this philosophy that produced in-house movement Calibre SH21, and was responsible for the legendary JJ calibres (named after our first master watchmaker Johannes Jahnke) – unique modules piggybacking on existing movements.

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Created by CW’s technical director Frank Stelzer, Calibre FS01 is an ingenious modified movement with Christopher Ward’s DNA in every cog and spring. With an inspired piece of lateral thinking, Frank realised that CW’s ‘jumping hour’ movement could be adapted to create a chiming sound on the hour, every hour. More than 60 new components form the striking mechanism module which sits atop a Sellita SW200-1 base movement which provides the 38-hour power reserve. 
 
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Today, the key to the C1 Bel Canto is FS01, a new chiming movement named after current technical director Frank Stelzer. In all horological history, little has tested the watchmaker like creating sound, so it’s no wonder Bel Canto took three years of tortuous development. Bel Canto is what’s called an hour chime, or – more romantically – a Sonnerie au Passage complication, which translates as ‘Passage of Time’.

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Bel Canto is an extrapolation of the C60 Concept, in that we’re taking the best hand-finished components and putting them within reach of many,” says Jörg Bader Junior, head of product at CW’s Biel atelier. “But in terms of technological challenge, it’s taken us into uncharted territory. We had to figure everything out for ourselves.”

The layered dial plays host to a floating time-telling sundial

The time-telling subdial ‘floats’ over the sunray-finished Viola dial, giving the wearer a feeling of depth. The hands and indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova® for after-dark visibility. With each JJ calibre, the desire wasn’t just to produce a complication, but to do it in a fresh, efficient way. Ten years ago, JJ01 was designed to offer the most accurate jumping-hour function possible and, by spreading the load over an entire hour, Johannes managed it. This success became one of the starting points for FS01.

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It’s a little known fact that Christopher Ward creates watches for Meistersinger, the German specialist in single-hand timepieces. A few years ago Frank made a new model for them, the Bell Hora, a Sonnerie au Passage. Would it be possible to do something similar for Christopher Ward?

The Bell Hora was a stepping stone,” says CEO and co-founder Mike France. “But with Bel Canto we wanted to bring the striking mechanism to the front, so the wearer could watch it in action. The question became: could we make a chiming watch both look and sound beautiful at the same time?

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“Finding a way to split out the components so they felt balanced across the entire face, took years,” says CW watch designer Will Brackfield. “Each time we moved one piece, it had a knock-on effect on the others. The platine – the blue module plate behind the important elements – would have a gorgeous sunray finish, so we needed to find a way to hide minor components behind that too.”

Hand-finished to perfection

The multi-layered architecture of the Bel Canto’s dial is enhanced by the exquisitely executed polishing of the hammer, spring and bridges – which together resemble a songbird. Crafted by hand (under microscope) by some of Switzerland’s finest artisans, finishing of this standard is usually the preserve of only the most exclusive and expensive brands.

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One of the great challenges was striking the right balance between note and loudness,” says CW’s head of product design, Adrian Buchmann. “We soon learned that the case would have to be made of Grade 5 titanium, a material we’d never used before, with lots of empty space and resonance points. It’s a very dense metal – and creates a sound cage with the best possible vibrations.

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 So, what exactly does the chime sound like? “Elegant,” says Mike. “Luxurious,” says Will. “A long, high-pitched note,” says Adrian.

The sound of silence

By pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock on the side of the case, you can switch off the chime – something that’s shown in the movement of the red indicator on the dial. No one can quite define it – it is more like a xylophone, or a hotel bell? – but all agree that it’s delightful. Technically, it turns out to be a D, also known as Re (“a drop of golden sun”) on the fixed do solfège system, familiar from The Sound Of Music.

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One thing everyone comments on is how the bridge structure towards the bottom looks like a bird,” Mike says. “The red ‘beak’ is actually the on-off mechanism, controlled by a pusher at 4 o’clock, and moves to indicate whether the chime is on or off, while the hammer is its tail. Bel Canto means ‘beautiful singing’, so there’s whimsical humour going on which seems very Christopher Ward.”

A case built for sound

Our Light-catcher™ case has had a subtle but sporty makeover. The first CW case made from Grade 5 titanium, the metal – which is less dense than steel – has been chosen for its ability to amplify sound. The internal architecture of the case has also been designed for the same reason.
Other details are equally as ambitious. 

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The dial consists of intriguingly stacked layers, rising from the platine through the bridges to the time-telling subdial and finally the twin-flags logo, printed on the lower surface of the sapphire crystal, while the titanium  41mm Light-catcher™case has been given a subtle sporty makeover.

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Quite simply, no brand anywhere has made the art of sound so accessible, or opened up the possibility of owning such high horological art to so many. Hearing really is believing. 
 
We love quality watches – so much so that in 2004 we started making our own. Combining award-winning English design with the f nest Swiss watchmaking skills, and concentrating on craftsmanship rather than salesmanship, we’ve created watches that are the equal (or better than) the world’s most celebrated brands in every respect. Apart from price. The C1 Bel Canto is one such watch. But don’t take our word for it: Do your research

#ChristopherWard #C1BelCanto  

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS


Collection: Bel Canto 

 Model: C1 Bel Canto Viola Automatic

 Ref. C01-41APT2-T00P0-B0

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Case
    Material: Grade 5 Titanium
    Size: 41mm
    Dial Colour: Viola
    Platine Colour: Viola
    Height: 13.0mm
    Lug-to-Lug: 48.0mm
    Case Weight 53g
    Weight inc.
bracelet 113g
    Water Resistance: 3 ATM (30m)
Movement
    Sellita SW200-1 with Calibre FS01
    Power Reserve: 38 hours
    No of Jewels: 29
    Complication Type: Passing chime
    Vibrations: 28,800 p/hr (4Hz)
    Timing Tolerance: +/-20 sec p/day
    Lume: SLN C1 X1 BL
Strap
    Size: 22mm
    Material: Bader bracelet
    Colour: Silver
    Leather Strap: Vacona® leather
    Colour: Picture or black

Features

  • Swiss made
  • Self-winding 29 jewel movement with FS01 chiming module
  • 38-hour power reserve
  • Brushed and polished Grade 5 Titanium case
  • Deep-stamped caseback with soundwave motif
  • Push-down crown with twin flags motif
  • Anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal
  • Floating time display
  • 3D hand finished bridges, spring, and hammer mechanism
  • On/Off pusher at 4 o’clock
  • Red on/off indicator
  • Sunray finished module plate
  • Mirror polished chiming gong
  • Raised brushed and polished indexes
  • Grade 2 titanium bracelet with micro-adjustable ratchet clasp, single screw links and quick-release system for easy changing
  • Eco-friendly luxury presentation case and owner's handbook  
 
Pre-order for End January 2025

Fully refundable deposit of £1,000.00  payable now

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Press releases - 2024
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www.ChristopherWard.com

Thursday, July 25, 2024

CHOPARD – L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 'Year of the Dragon’ Edition

 

CHOPARD L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 'Year of the Dragon’ 40mm Rose Gold Exclusive Edition 2024

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A technical feat presented for the first time on the occasion of Chopard Manufacture's 25th anniversary, the L.U.C 98.06-L jumping-hour movement equips an exclusive new edition of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 timepiece inspired by year of the dragon symbols. 

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In this eight-piece limited series whose quality is certified by the Poinçon de Genève hallmark, the 40 mm-diameter case in ethical 18-carat rose gold frames a dial entirely hand-engraved with a majestic dragon motif. 

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Equipped with the four barrels characterising the exclusive Chopard Quattro technology offering an up to eight-day power reserve, the L.U.C 98.06-L movement places this model among the rare jumping-hour watches endowed with such autonomy.

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Inspired by the year of the dragon and its rich symbolism, Chopard Manufacture merges the aesthetic theme of the Chinese zodiac with its jumping-hour watch. The first creature to appear in Chinese myths and legends, the dragon represents imperial authority, wealth and fertility, as well as being a sign of good fortune. Combining tradition and innovation, this exceptional L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 model testifies to the Manufacture's dedication to the art of watchmaking and to celebrating the world's cultures.

Artistic Crafts: a dragon entirely hand-engraved in-house

At the heart of the case in ethical 18-carat rose gold – with its rounded shapes inspired by the hunter-type cases of the pocket watches once designed by Louis-Ulysse Chopard – the Manufacture has placed an exceptional gold dial whose motif is a masterpiece of hand engraving. 

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Resulting from over 100 hours of meticulous craftsmanship, the dragon is depicted according to a tapestry dating from the Qing dynasty, viewed from the front and asserting its imposing, sovereign nature, majestic mane, front paws raised skywards and rear paws skimming the waves. 

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The reliefs carved into the material using traditional burins, burnishers and chisels are highlighted by a patina that gives the dial an antique appearance. The infinitely small surface area of the dial – less than 40 millimetres in diameter and just one millimetre thick – calls for surgical precision. The integration of this Artistic Craft is representative of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s determination to create – with Chopard Manufacture – a centre of excellence dedicated to perpetuating traditional watchmaking expertise.

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Chopard has chosen to pair this watch with a strap in salmon leather, featuring a texture evoking the scales on the dragon’s body.

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Innovation: a jumping-hour function with a generous power reserve enabled by Chopard Quattro technology

With its L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 timepiece, Chopard Manufacture presents its interpretation of a horological complication greatly prized by connoisseurs: the jumping hour. The L.U.C 98.06-L movement equipping this limited series is one of the few in this category of watches – which generally consume a great deal of energy – to offer up to eight days of power reserve. 

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Thanks to the four stacked and series-coupled barrels based on the unique Chopard Quattro technology – which usually allows up to 216 hours of autonomy – the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 maintains a reserve above 190 hours despite the amount of energy required for the instant rotation of the hours disc. This power reserve can be tracked using the indicator engraved on the movement, visible through the transparent case-back.

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Together, the four barrels comprise almost two metres of spring. In addition to providing a more generous power reserve, they ensure greater accuracy because the energy transmitted is more evenly distributed. The energy delivered to the escapement is more constant, as is the amplitude, thus enabling high levels of chronometric (precision timekeeping) performance.

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Visible through an exhibition case-back, this highly complicated mechanical hand-wound movement guarantees reliability and precision within an overall thickness of just 4.85 millimetres. The balance-spring is equipped with a Phillips terminal curve that guarantees the regulating organ’s precision throughout the movement’s operation – a feat of which only authentic Haute Horlogerie Manufactures are capable. It features a swan’s neck regulator enabling more precise timing of the balance frequency and hence the rate of the watch, by helping to fine-tune the active length of the balance-spring. In addition to its technical benefits, this device also endows the calibre with a more sophisticated aesthetic.

Sustainability

Gold is an essential material in our production. This is why we have made special efforts to ensure that one of the major steps in our journey towards sustainable luxury is sourcing gold mined responsibly for all of our watch and jewelry production. This goal was achieved in July 2018, when our workshops began using 100% ethical gold that meets the most stringent international environmental and social standards. Specifically, our ethical gold comes from two transparent and traceable systems: responsibly produced artisanal gold and recycled gold certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). Artisanal and small-scale mining involves millions of men and women around the world, individuals working alone, with their families, or in cooperatives, using basic exploration, extraction, and processing methods. Responsible extraction of artisanal and small-scale produced gold is essential to our sourcing strategy, as it allows us to achieve full traceability from the mine to the finished product and contribute to significant socio-economic and environmental impact. The RJC's CoC standard defines the requirements for identifying and tracking "eligible materials," including certified recycled gold from legitimate sources. Since 1978, we have been one of the first watch and jewelry manufacturers to have our own foundry. Thanks to this independent approach, we are now not only able to guarantee the origin of the gold we use in our workshops, but also to remelt our production scraps into gold.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
 
Collection : L.U.C

Model:  L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 'Year of the Dragon’ Edition

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Reference:  161977-1007   

Case
    Material: Ethical 18-carat rose gold
    Diameter: 40.00 mm
    Thickness 10.30 mm
    Crown in 18-carat rose gold with L.U.C logo: 7.00 mm
    Vertical satin-brushed case-middle and interhorn space
    Polished bezel and case-back
    Glare-proofed sapphire crystal     
    Exhibition back
    Water resistance 50
metres
Dial and hands
    Dial in ethical 18-carat rose gold engraved with a dragon motif
    Gilded Dauphine fusée minutes hand
    Gilded baton-type hand for the power-reserve indicator

Movement
    Calibre L.U.C 98.06-L
    Mechanical movement with manual winding
    Diameter: 31.80 mm
    Thickness: 4.85 mm
    Number of jewels: 42
    Number of parts: 240
    Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
    Power reserve of 192 hours (8 days)

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    Jumping hours
    Four barrels – exclusive Chopard Quattro® technology
    Bridges with Côtes de Genève motif and gilded engravings
    Swan’s neck fine adjustment
    Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
    Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

Functions/Indications
    Instantaneous jumping-hours display in a 6 o’clock aperture
    Pointer-type central display of the minutes
    Power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock on the back of the watch
    Balance-stop function, enabling accurate adjustments of the hour (and the displayed minute)

Strap and buckle
    Hand-sewn strap in burgundy salmon leather
    Polished and satin-brushed pin buckle in ethical 18-carat rose gold


🔴 PriceMSRP: 86’000 CHF / 97'500 USD / EUR 97'200 💰 

🔰Availability: limited to ✅only ❱❱❱ 8 pieces

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Press Release - 2024
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