Friday, April 12, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre – DUOMETRE Chronograph Moon Gold / Platinum


Jaeger-LeCoultreDUOMETRE Chronograph Moon Gold / Platinume 42.5 mm Opaline Dial - 2024

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 JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE DUOMETRE CHRONOGRAPH MOON

Key Facts: 

  • The new Calibre 391 unites a highly complex chronograph with a moon phase display
  • The patented Duometre mechanism ensures remarkable precision
  • A new case and dials express contemporary elegance in distinctive style
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In 2007 Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the ground-breaking Duometre mechanism in the form of a chronograph – the complication that epitomises the concept of precision. In 2024, the Maison applies the Duometre concept in an entirely new timepiece, marrying the high precision of a chronograph with the charm of a celestial complication. 

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Powered by the new Calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon presents an intriguing contrast between the lightning-fast operation of the chronograph – which can time intervals as small as 1/6th of a second – and the slow rhythm of the moon as it passes through its cycle in 29.53 days, complemented by a Night and Day display.

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At Watches and Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Duometre Chronograph Moon in two variations: a platinum case contrasting with a copper-coloured dial, and a pink gold case offset by the discreet elegance of a silver dial. Both models are enhanced by a hand-stitched alligator strap with small-scale alligator lining.

Solving the Conundrum of Complications

The fundamental problem of complex mechanical watches is that, for any complication to operate, it naturally draws on some of the power provided by the barrel. This disrupts the perfectly regular and constant supply that is required by the meticulously adjusted escapement to fulfil its timekeeping function as precisely as possible.

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The search for a solution to this problem at Jaeger-LeCoultre during the early 2000s eventually led to the invention of the Duometre mechanism. Introduced in 2007 and patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre, it features two separate barrels and two independent gear trains – one to drive the escapement (for timekeeping) and one to power the complications – both integrated into a single calibre and linked to a single escapement. For the first time, it was possible to guarantee that the movement’s isochronism (the regularity of its ‘heartbeat’) is not compromised by the operation of any complication.

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While the Duometre is revolutionary in modern watchmaking, the underlying principle had, in fact, been explored by the Manufacture more than 120 years earlier; the LeCoultre Calibre 19/20RMSMI was equipped with two barrels and fitted into a pocket watch in 1881. Because that calibre had only one gear train, it did not solve the fundamental problem; nevertheless, it provided a theoretical ‘trigger’ for the Duometre concept.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and watchmakers chose the chronograph for the first application of the Duometre concept in 2007 as it represented the greatest challenge to accurate timekeeping posed by any complication because its operation requires short bursts of very high power. Since then, the Duometre mechanism has been associated with several other complications, including moon phases, travel time and a tourbillon.

An Entirely New Calibre

For Calibre 391, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers started from the ground up to develop a fully integrated movement that combines a manually wound mono-pusher chronograph with moon phase and night-day complications, as well as two power reserve indicators and a seconde foudroyante (flying second) display.

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When the chronograph mechanism is activated, the
foudroyante hand begins its whirling dance, making a complete rotation in one second, during which it beats six times – stopping instantaneously when the chronograph timer is stopped and thus providing a reading accurate to 1/6th of a second.

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On the dial side of the Duometre Chronograph Moon, two open-worked sections offer intriguing glimpses of the mechanism, hinting at the mechanical beauty of the calibre. On the reverse side, fully revealed beneath the transparent crystal case-back, much of the movement is open-worked and an array of bridges seems almost to be floating above the levers and wheels, drawing the eye deep into the mechanism. Creating visual unity across the entire expanse of the movement, the bridges are decorated with sunrayed Geneva stripes. It’s a challenging technique that demands absolute precision because the components must be decorated one-by-one, and yet radiate from the centre of the regulating organ to the edge of the calibre in perfect alignment once the movement is assembled.

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The open-working of Calibre 391 serves two purposes: not only does it greatly enhance the aesthetics, it also serves a technical purpose, enabling the watchmakers to more easily assemble some parts of this highly complex calibre. This is a fine example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy of marrying mechanics and aesthetics in such a way that each serves the other. Being a manually wound calibre, there is no winding rotor to conceal the chronograph levers.

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Traditional Haute Horlogerie finishes abound: crisply bevelled and polished angles define the edges of the bridges; brushed surfaces contrasts with polished metal; perlage on the main plate reflects light back up through the mechanism; and blue screws provide a pleasing contrast to the silvery tones of the metal.

A Fascinating Display and Refined Details

The dial is both elegant and intuitive to read, featuring the distinctive three-counter layout and long, thin hands that make the Duometre so recognisable. 

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Echoing the aesthetic of traditional sector dials, the main dial surface and the centre of each sub-dial has the fine, almost powdery texture achieved by the opaline finish; in contrast, the broad ring encircling each sub-dial is decorated with azuré (ultra-fine engraving in perfectly regular, concentric circles). Adding to the visual appeal, the sub-dials are slightly sunken below the main surface, while the edge of the dial is subtly curved, closely following the contours of the glass box crystal.

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Enhancing the symmetry of the layout, the moon phase display is integrated into the chronograph hours and minutes sub-dial, which is set at 3 o’clock. Its blue background is visually balanced by that of the Night and Day display, which is integrated into the time sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Elapsed time is displayed up to 12 hours, 60 minutes and 60 seconds, accurate to 1/6th of a second and a tachymeter scale marked around the periphery of the dial enables the wearer to measure speed based on the time taken to travel a fixed distance, or to calculate distance based on speed.

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The seconde foudroyante is displayed in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, flanked by the two open-worked areas that reveal parts of the mechanism. The two power reserves (50 hours for each barrel and gear train) are displayed on an arc-shaped bridge on each side of the sub-dial. Both barrels are wound by a single crown – forwards for the barrel that provides power for the timekeeping function and backwards for the second barrel, which provides power for the complications.

A New Duometre Case: Contemporary Elegance Inspired by Tradition

Marking the launch of three new Duometre models in 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has designed an entirely new case for the collection. A contemporary interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19th-century, its rounded contours are highly tactile as well as visually appealing. 

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(The French word savonette literally means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand.) With its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel, the new Duometre case expresses this literal definition very well. The crown, too, has been redesigned, with deep and rounded notches that make it a joy to handle. Indeed, the highly polished edges of the lugs are the only sharp lines to be found.

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A comfortable 42.5 mm in diameter, the case is a complex structure of 34 separate parts and the lugs are screwed rather than integrated to enable the use of multiple finishing techniques. A mixture of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces creates a fascinating play of light with every movement of the wrist.

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With an entirely new calibre, dial and case, the Duometre Chronograph Moon is an eloquent expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s relentlessly creative spirit. It embodies the Maison’s philosophy of combining beauty with technical sophistication, and a deep respect for the traditions of Haute Horlogerie with constant innovation – always with precision at the heart of the matter.
 
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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  DUOMETRE Chronograph Moon 

  •  Reference: Pink Gold: Q622252J – Silvered grey, Opaline
  • Reference: Platinum: Q622656J – Copper, Opaline
Case
Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats) or 950 platinum
Dimensions: 42.5 mm diameter x 14.2 mm thick 
Case-back: Open
Water resistance: 5 bar
Movement
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 391
Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds; Chronograph with 12-hour counter, 60-minute counter, 
1/6th-second counter and central chronograph seconds; Moon phases, 
Night & Day, two Power Reserve indicators
Power Reserve: 50hours for each barrel
Front dial: Silver opaline (in pink gold case); Copper-coloured opaline (in platinum case)
Strap
Alligator with small scale alligator lining

🔴 Price Reference: Pink Gold: Q622252J $ 70,100 /   77.500 / Platinum: Q622656J $ 86,800 /  95.500💰

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Press releases - 2024
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Thursday, April 11, 2024

IWC – PORTUGIESER Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night Armor Gold

IWC SchaffhausenPORTUGIESER Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night Black Dial 42.4 mm Armor Gold® 2024  

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 THE IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGIESER HAND-WOUND TOURBILLON WITH A GLOBE-SHAPED DAY AND NIGHT INDICATION

Schaffhausen/Geneva, 9th April 2024: IWC Schaffhausen introduces the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night at Watches and Wonders Geneva. It combines an 18-carat Armor Gold® case with an Obsidian lacquered dial and gold-plated hands and gold appliques. The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock consists of 56 parts and weighs only 0.675 grams. Another highlight is the innovative day and night display, which shows the eternal cycle of day and night with the help of a small sphere rotating around its axis. The globe-shaped day and night indicator is visible both from the dial and the movement side. The hand-wound IWC-manufactured 81925 calibre with gold-plated components can be admired through the sapphire glass case back.

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The Portugieser stands out not only because of its pure and timeless design. The collection is also a testament to IWC Schaffhausen’s comprehensive expertise in fine watchmaking. Over the years, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has presented many Portugieser watches with high complications, ranging from different versions of its perpetual calendar and tourbillons to the astronomical displays of the Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia – to this day the most complicated watch ever made by IWC Schaffhausen. With its unique engineering approach to fine watchmaking, IWC develops complications that are ingenious, highly robust and reliable, and technically elegant in their design. 

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Adding to its legacy of high complications, IWC presents the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901) with a polished and brushed 18-carat Armor Gold® case, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to its improved microstructure, Armor Gold® is significantly harder and more wear resistant than conventional 5N gold. 

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The Obsidian black and highly polished dial radiates a tremendous depth and creates a beautiful contrast. The watch is fitted with a finely crafted curved black alligator leather strap from Santoni, a renowned Italian manufacturer of luxury shoes and leather accessories. 
 

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The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock is one of the most sophisticated complications in watchmaking. Assembling and finetuning this delicate mechanism is a task reserved for the most experienced master watchmakers at IWC Schaffhausen

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The tourbillon places the balance wheel and pallet lever inside a small cage that rotates around its axis once every minute. This constant rotation reduces the influence of gravity on the oscillating system of the watch, thereby increasing its accuracy. As the tourbillon cage is stopped and accelerated several times per second, its total weight must be as low as possible. Although the mechanism consists of 56 individual parts, it only weighs 0.675 grams in total. The pallet lever and escape wheel are made of silicon and treated with a special diamond coating. 

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This Diamond Shell® technology reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to the high power reserve of 84 hours. Thanks to the integrated tourbillon stop, the mechanism can be brought to a complete stop and the watch set with down-to-the-second accuracy.

A UNIQUE WAY TO SHOW THE ENDLESS CYCLE OF DAY AND NIGHT 

Another highlight can be found at 9 o’clock: the 24-hour indication in the shape of a small planet. The globe has a dark and a bright side and rotates around its axis once every 24 hours, offering a captivating visualisation of whether it is currently day or night. The idea for this special day and night concept came from former watchmaker trainee Loris Spitzer and is a testament to the success of IWC’s trainee program and the culture of curiosity and innovation that the company fosters. 

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The day and night indication is integrated into the newly developed IWCmanufactured 81925 calibre. As the movement is handwound and has no oscillating mass, the small globe is visible from the front and back. The gold-plated base plate is partly skeletonised to offer an unimpeded view of the barrel and other components. 

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The movement is elaborately finished with circular Geneva stripes and can be admired through the sapphire glass case back.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   PORTUGIESER Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night  

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 Ref. IW545901 


FEATURES

  • Mechanical movement
    – Flying hacking minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
    – Day & Night indication in the shape of a globe at 9 o’clock
    – See-through sapphire glass back

MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured  calibre 81925
Frequency:    28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels:    22
Power reserve:   84 h
195 Components
Winding:    Manual-winding
WATCH
Materials: 18 ct Armor Gold®
Diameter:    42.40 mm
Height:    10.80 mm
Water-resistant:    6 bar 
DIAL
Obsidian Black
Flying hacking minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Day & Night indication in the shape of a globe at 9 o’clock
Glass:  Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
STRAP
Black alligator leather strap by Santoni
Distance between horns: 22.0 MM
Gold folding clasp

🔴 Public price:   CHF 80'000 /87,500 EUR / $ 79,300 💰

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Further Information
IWC Schaffhausen Baumgartenstrasse 15 · CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 · Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 · press@iwc.com ·

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Press releases - 2024
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IWC Schaffhausen
Baumgartenstrasse 15 ·
CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 ·
Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 ·
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  info@iwc.com
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