Thursday, March 20, 2014

BREVA – Génie 02 AIR Limited Edition

















BREVA Génie 02 AIR Limited Edition NEW


Spread your Wings and Soar!

The Breva Génie 02 Air combines the stunning sophistication of a beautifully crafted mechanical timepiece with the practicality of a fully functional, high-performance altimeter. Whether your passion is paragliding, flying, skydiving, hang gliding, mountain climbing, skiing, or simply enjoying the fresh air and stunning views that high altitudes offer, the Génie 02 Air is the perfect companion.

The black titanium case of the Génie 02 Air offers a subtle but stunning backdrop to the high-legibility hands and markers, ensuring that essential information, i.e. time and altitude, is easily visible at a glance.

The superbly finished proprietary movement, much of which can be fully appreciated through the open dial and display back, was developed exclusively for Breva by award-winning movement constructor Jean-François Mojon (Chronode). The Génie 02 Air is 100% Swiss-made, from inception to realization.

The dial side of the timepiece is dominated by a sub-dial at 8 o'clock displaying hours and minutes, and the precision altimeter sub-dial at 2 o'clock displaying meters (or feet). Arcing around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters (or 16,400 feet), with small seconds below. At 4 o'clock, an indicator is revealed when the air valve is open or closed (it must be open to indicate the altitude). Below is the 65-hour power reserve indicator.

In pride of place at the bottom of the dial is one of two aneroid capsules measuring air pressure (from which the altitude is derived), with a high-precision arm multiplying by 200 the expansion and contraction of the capsules and relaying the air pressure to the two altitude indications.

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Three chevron-engraved crowns wind, set, adjust, and operate the functions of the Génie 02:
  • 9 o'clock: a two-position crown both winds the movement and sets the time.
  • 2 o'clock: a screw down crown rotates both the altitude's precision-scale and large-scale to adjust for variations in air pressure, which affects altitude readings.
  • 4 o'clock: a screw down crown either seals air out of the movement or allows it in (for altitude function). Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture and humidity from air before it enters the movement. Just above the crown, a red band on the dial marked “SEALED” warns when the valve is unlocked.
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Turning the Génie 02 Air over allows the complexity of beautifully finished 415-component movement to be more fully appreciated. The movement is framed by the code names of many of the world's airports, engraved around the perimeter of the caseback along with their altitudes above sea level: GVA430M, HND6M; SYD9M; JFK/LHR24M; SIN7M; DXB19M; HKG9M; LAX38M; GYD3M; CDG119M; BCT4M; CVF2008M; OLB37M; IBZ6M; MIA2M; KUL22M; LTT18M; CGK10M; BGI52M. How many of these airports do you recognize?
Winding the movement makes the rotation of the mainspring barrel cap visible.
The Génie 02 Air is a limited edition of 55 pieces in titanium G5 and is available with calibrations in either meters or feet.

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Génie 02 Air Details

High performance mechanical altimeter: paradoxically, an altimeter doesn't really measure altitude at all: it measures air pressure. In 1928, German inventor Paul Kollsman revolutionized the aviation world when he invented the world's first accurate barometric altimeter.

An air pressure altimeter is in fact a barometer developed specifically to display altitude rather than barometric pressure. Pressure in the earth's atmosphere is a result of the weight of the air pulled down by gravity. The higher the altitude, the less atmosphere above, so less pressure is exerted.

Aneroid capsules: the aneroid capsules in the Génie 02 were especially developed to Breva's specifications to optimize their precision and use in a wristwatch. The capsules are made from a special non-magnetic memory metal (a Breva-patented invention), which is lighter and stronger than aluminum and has twice the ductility of steel. The capsules are exposed for long durations to high temperature and pure oxygen to maximize thermal conductivity and oxidation resistance.

The Génie 02’s aneroid capsules were developed specifically for registering air pressure for altitude readings rather than barometric pressure, and are different from those used on the Génie 01.
A lever, clearly visible on top of the aneroid capsules, transmits the combined height of the capsules through a complex system of gears and racks to the two precision, large-scale altimeter indications. The gearing for these two displays has been carefully calculated to optimize both precision and legibility.

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Adjusting for changes in air pressure: atmospheric pressure can change with weather, and this can affect altitude readings. When bad weather approaches, air pressure can fall, causing the altimeter in the timepiece to confuse this decrease in pressure with an increase in altitude.

In order to compensate for weather- or temperature-induced barometric pressure variations, the altimeter should be calibrated by using a known altitude or a known pressure value. A known altitude can typically be taken from a specific landmark on a topographic map. If a known altitude is not available, a known pressure value will suffice. Barometric pressure is measured several times per day and can usually be obtained from aviation weather reports.
Altitude has historically been measured using a calibrated barometer, which is essentially what a pressure altimeter is. A barometric altimeter measures air pressure, which decreases with increasing altitude due to less atmospheric pressure.

Flight Levels

A pilot must recalibrate the altimeter according to local air pressure at sea level, in order to take into account natural variations of pressure over time due to weather and temperature. If altimeters are not calibrated before flight, two aircraft could be flying at the same altitude even though their altimeters indicate that they are at different altitudes.

To ensure aeronautic safety, planes and air traffic controllers use flight levels, which is a nominal pressure altitude in feet divided by 100 and always divisible by 500 (so always ending in 0 or 5), rather than actual height above sea level. For example, 33,000 feet is referred to as "flight level 330”.

Actual altitudes above ground are not as important for flight safety as the difference in altitudes between planes. This difference can be determined from the air pressure at each craft, and does not require knowledge of the local air pressure on the ground.

Flight levels solve this problem by defining altitudes based on a standardized air pressure at sea level. All aircraft operating on flight levels calibrate to this setting regardless of the actual sea level pressure.
A second advantage of flying at a consistent flight level, rather than true altitude, is that an aircraft's aerodynamic and engine performance depend on air pressure rather than its true altitude above ground or sea level. It is much easier to trim a plane to operate efficiently at a specific air pressure rather than altitude.

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Profile of Breva founder, Vincent Dupontreué

Breva founder Vincent Dupontreué was born just outside Paris in 1977. He had a precocious entrepreneurial spirit that had him making and selling bracelets on the beach in Corsica during holidays when just 11 years old and building and selling skateboard ramps with his brother at 13. A job working in a bespoke men’s clothing store at 18 led, a few years later, to the position of sales manager at Ermenegildo Zegna. Vincent Dupontreué quickly decided he wanted to run his own boutique and when that wasn’t a possibility – he was still only 22 years old – he set up his own fashion brand, called ‘Vincent Dupontreué’.


After seven successful years Vincent Dupontreué sold his fashion brand, did an MBA in Lausanne, Switzerland, and ran an art gallery for a couple of years.

On his 33rd birthday in 2010, the desire for a nice watch ignited his entrepreneurial spirit once again and he decided to launch his own high-end Swiss brand. A beautiful weekend on Lake Como in Northern Italy provided both the inspiration for the name, Breva –  ‘La Breva’ is a warm southern wind contributing to the agreeably mild micro-climate around Lake Como – and the idea of creating a mechanical timepiece that forecast the weather.

In 2013, after three years of research and development, Vincent Dupontreué launched Breva with the Génie 01, the world’s first mechanical wristwatch displaying time, altitude, weather forecasting barometric pressure and power reserve. This was followed in 2014 by the Génie 02, which features a fully functional precision mechanical altimeter, as well as time and power reserve indications.

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Technical Specifications

Breva Génie 02 Air Limited Edition of 55 pieces

  Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Large-scale altitude indicator
Precision-scale altitude indicator
Power reserve indicator
Air pressure valve
Equalizer seal indicator
Altitude scale adjuster
  Movement
Proprietary movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon/Chronode
Diameter: 38.10mm
Number of components: 415
Number of jewels: 45
Balance frequency: 4 Hz
Dual aneroid capsules specifically developed to derive altitude from air pressure
Power reserve: 65 hours
  Case, Dials and Strap
Case material: black titanium G5
Dimensions:  44.70 mm x 16.10 mm
Number of components: 88
Crowns: winding setting crown at 9 o'clock, altitude corrector at 2 o'clock, air valve at 4 o'clock
Crystals: sapphire crystal and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Dials: black grained indexes and numbers in three-dimensional Super-LumiNova
Altitude scales: available in metric (meters) or imperial (feet) measurements
Water resistance: 30 m
Air valve with Teflon moisture-resisting osmosis membrane
Strap and buckle: natural rubber strap with titanium tang buckle
Calibrations: altitude calibrations available in either meters or feet

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Wednesday, March 19, 2014

SPEAKE-MARIN – MAGISTER Tourbillon

















SPEAKE-MARINJ Class MAGISTER Tourbillon NEW

Magister Tourbillon features a hand-finished 60-second tourbillon in a white-lacquered dial. The platinum micro-rotor powering the automatic-winding movement can be appreciated through the display back of the grade 5 titanium case.

Magister Tourbillon brings together everything that is quintessentially Speak-Marin: an eye-catching tourbillon, sculpted heat-blued hands, iconic Piccadilly case, fluted crown and finely finished movement, here featuring a platinum micro-rotor. Magister Tourbillon radiates a sophisticated aura, exuding the class and refinement for which Speake-Marin has become a byword.

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The beautiful hand-finished tourbillon rotating at 6 o’clock is framed superbly by its stainless steel guard. The eye-catching, highly polished tourbillon bridge is made from Durnico maraging steel, chosen for its superior strength.

The tourbillon has played an important role in the story of Speake-Marin. The first timepiece ever to bear the Speake-Marin name was the Foundation Watch, a hand-made pocket watch which Peter Speake-Marin equipped with a tourbillon escapement. The watchmaker’s topping tool wheel motif in the Speake-Marin logo, which first appeared in the tourbillon cage of the Foundation Watch, can also be seen in the tourbillon cage of the Magister Tourbillon.

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Peter Speake-Marin recognises the tourbillon’s capacity to improve timekeeping accuracy by averaging out positional errors due to gravity. However, it is the visual aspect of this mesmerising escapement that draws him to it.

“The tourbillon is one of the things that I love most about watchmaking,” he says. “Not because of the precision it gives to the timekeeping, but because of the animation it gives to the dial. It shows time moving in a way that a minute-repeater or a grande sonnerie, for example, won’t offer. It’s something which, for me, is extremely profound.”


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Of the topping tool wheel design for the tourbillon cage, Peter adds: “I have always been attracted to the topping tool because of its form. You use a tool to make a component, you make a timepiece, and the timepiece is a dream turned into reality. The topping tool motif is very much at the root of everything I do: It is the tool which gives me the means to realise my dream.”

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Magister Tourbillon’s visually-arresting blued steel hands are also designed in the same style as the hands of the Foundation Watch, the Rosetta Stone of Speake-Marin. The polished, sculpted hands – including a heart-shaped hour hand – are set off superbly by the elegant white lacquer, multi-level dial. The sides of the highly legible Roman numerals taper towards the centre and follow the line of the hands. This subtle but significant detail endows the dial with a dynamic, contemporary feel.

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The tourbillon – its one-minute rotation providing an intuitive indication of the passing seconds – contrasts beautifully against the pristine white dial. The “3Hz” frequency of the SM3 movement and the “platinum mass” of the winding rotor are referenced in the centre of the dial.

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The comfortable titanium Piccadilly case features Speake-Marin's signature fluted crown. The polished bezel frames the dial, just as the polished guard in the dial around the escapement frames the tourbillon.

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Turning the Magister Tourbillon over, the movement featuring hand-finishing can be fully appreciated through the display back. On top of the offset mainspring barrel is the noble platinum micro-rotor, its strong and sober aesthetic counterbalanced by the intricate complexity of the tourbillon.

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The lower tourbillon cage is supported by a striking paddle-shaped bridge offering clear visual access to the surrounding gears below. The rhodium-finished German silver bridges and movement plates are circular-grained with polished screw heads and countersinks. Technical details are engraved and gilded on the bridges either side of the platinum rotor.

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The Speake-Marin Magister Tourbillon is available with a polished Grade 5 titanium case.


The “J Class” collection
Magister Tourbillon launches the Speake-Marin "J Class" collection. After the exhilaration of a white-knuckle ride on a finely-tuned racing yacht – heeling on a broad reach with its rail near the ocean and spray cutting the air – comes the yacht club, replete with rich wood-panelled walls and vintage navigation instruments. And it is in the rarefied ambience of the club that the high-class pedigree of the Speake-MarinJ Class” timepieces – including Magister Tourbillon – comes into its own.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Speake-Marin J Class Magister Tourbillon Grade 5 Titanium Case

REFERENCE:  PIC.10030
Features and indications
• Central hours and minutes
• Hand-finished 60-second tourbillon   
• White-lacquered, multi-level dial
• Automatic-winding movement with 950 platinum micro-rotor
• Power reserve 72+ hours
• 42mm Piccadilly case in polished Grade 5 titanium
• Display back

Dial and hands
• White-lacquered, multi-level dial featuring tapered Roman numerals
• Central Speake-Marin signature Foundation hour and minute hands in heat-blued steel

Movement and finishing
Calibre SM3
• Rhodium-finished German silver bridges
• Glucydur balance
• Automatic-winding movement
• 950 Platinum micro-rotor
• Diameter of rotor: 16.40mm
• Single barrel
• Frequency: 21,600vph / 3Hz
• Power reserve: over 72 hours
• Dimensions: 30.40mm x 5.40mm
• Jewels: 25
• 4N gold-plated bridge engravings:
Twenty Five (25)
Jewels; 60 Second Tourbillon;
Platinum Rotor Mass;
Swiss Made; Speake-Marin Switzerland;
Frequency 3Hz;
72 hour power reserve;
Project launched 2013

Case and strap
• 42mm Piccadilly case in polished, grade 5 titanium
• Case comprising 27 components
• Dimensions:  11.30mm x 5.40mm
• Front and display-back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating
• Case-back circumference engraving: “Speake-Marin – The Piccadilly”   
• Water resistance: 3atm/30m/100ft
• Hand-made, natural alligator strap
• Pin buckle in titanium

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